Caiman - New Case?

[Gazjam]

Jon, Its giving my brain a good work out too. Hiding as many of the fixings as possible yet keeping the structural rigidity is turning out to be a tricky problem to solve.

I'd love to get myself a proper lathe and milling machine. Also considered building myself a 3 axis CNC router or CNC enabling a milling machine.
(I've nearly bough a lathe a few times but then realised I dont really have anywhere to put it at the moment.)

I have managed to find some M8x220 roofing bolts which would fit front to back without an issue and wouldn't look too bad (there on the back anyway). They might need to be shortened a little, but that's a minor problem.
M8x220 Roofing Bolts

The base will be 5mm aluminium plate painted black, so plenty thick & strong enough to fix the case sides to.

If your Design is in 3dS Max, you could export the file as a *.stl file, which any local manufacturer could run through their CNC?

Dont know about availablility in your area or anyting, but I know Max software has plugins for CNC output compatability.

Might make it easier (and MAYBE cheaper!)

[Carson]

If your Design is in 3dS Max, you could export the file as a *.stl file, which any local manufacturer could run through their CNC?

Dont know about availablility in your area or anyting, but I know Max software has plugins for CNC output compatability.

Might make it easier (and MAYBE cheaper!)

I did think about that.
Thing is, the overall design and look is done in 3ds max, but the actual design for holes, recesses, etc has been done in sketchup to be exported in .dwg format.

[Jonboy]

You can certainly get a drill bit long enough for 10 and 12 mm, be carefull with oak and bare metal because they can have a reaction with each other, i use stainless fixings for this or decent coated,
These are a handy bolt for wood to wood fixings, ive used thousands for making bridges, sleeper walls and other landscaping projects, not much good in this instance though
http://www.landscaping-store.com/aca...imberlock.html

Roofing bolts are a a bit of a cosmetic pain with the cross head stile tops.

If you used reasonable thick plate all round bolted together you would only need short allan cap bolts counter- bored to give a flush finish, just need to drill and tap the ali sides end on, mount the sides in from the edge to form a rebate the thickness of the wood, then the wooden side cheeks could be wood screwed from the inside giving a flush finish, the top could be a simple plate with a small 90 degree bend to locate a couple of fixings to the rear panel, it could slide in from the back if you milled a rebate on the wooden cheeks thus covering the ali skin underneath,

I think i'm starting to repeat myself now, but i think you get the idea, i'm sure a few more sessions of brain storming and you will get there.

[Carson]

Here is a bit of an update for everyone.

The final design is 99% complete now. Just waiting on a PM from Stan regarding which Pot I need to replace the current with one so I can panel mount it. (I know I could use the current one but the shape would be a right pain to fit.)

The fixing together of the panels has been decided also. I am going with 4 lengths of M6 rod threaded into the front of the case, through the wood and neatly fastened with 4 M6 Nyloc Dome headed nuts on the rear. (All fastenings are stainless steel.)

The attachment of the base is not quite so critical as any fastenings will be hidden from view anyway, but it will likely be attached through the use of high strength epoxy glue or whatever glue will provide the strongest bond.

As for the Perspex top, it will be held in place by small latches or clips in each corner. I am still yet to finalise the final method of attachment so open to ideas here.
I wondered about those small door magnets you often see on kitchen cupboards, but am unsure whether magnets are really a good idea in the case.


On another note, I have purchased almost all of the minor parts for the case. (Switches, leds, sockets, jacks, fastenings, etc.)
I have requested a quote for the perspex top to be cut to size and have it edges polished.
I have also emailed HiFi 2000 with a few questions about getting the front and rear panels made, so should get those ordered once I hear back from them.

All I need to locate now, is a ~40-50mm Chrome Control Knob (which are rather tricky to find I might add), the hardwood sides and then some feet.


Below are the final designs.

[Gazjam]

Looking great so far, good stuff.

Had a wee thought RE: fastening the thing together..

Do you like to swap op-amps and do other Mods?
If so, would you have to factor in accessability to the PCB in your design?


Gary.

[Carson]

Looking great so far, good stuff.

Had a wee thought RE: fastening the thing together..

Do you like to swap op-amps and do other Mods?
If so, would you have to factor in accessability to the PCB in your design?


Gary.

I do indeed need quick access to the pcb. I am planning on making the top panel easily removable so i can gain access to the innards.

Since I will be changing all buttons, sockets, etc to panel mount versions, I will be de-soldering all the current parts and then neatly bridging the gap with equipment wire.

Where possible, I will be placing a connector on the pcb so I can simply undo the connector to remove all external parts from the PCB. (The line out and digital in connectors will likely be hard wired as I dont want to introduce extra connections which might alter the sound.)

[Gazjam]

good solution!

If I was you id be keeping close tabs on the cost....
I ge the feeling this could b something that other people would pay for?

Good luck!

[Carson]

good solution!

If I was you id be keeping close tabs on the cost....
I ge the feeling this could b something that other people would pay for?

Good luck!

Already done.
I have an excel spreadsheet with part numbers, costs, quantities, where to buy and links to the parts in question.

The most expensive parts of this case are, by far, the front and rear panels.
10mm thick CNC'ed and then finished panels aren't cheap as I have discovered.
HiFi 2000 has said they will machine the panels for me, so im just tweaking my designs a little to incorporate future mods.
(If im going to spend ~£50+ per panel, I'm going to make sure I have thought everything through very carefully.)

If others wish to go the same route however, I would go with something a little less expensive.
This project has already met and passed the 3 figure mark, and that's on the front and rear panels alone.

[Carson]

Here is a little something to give everyone a clue to the size of my case:

[Spectral Morn]

Hi James

Fantastic info, design and details so far....I can't wait to see this built, in the flesh via photos.

The talent of AOS members is an amazing thing to see.

Regards D S D L