Yes - I was going to make one of my long pairs into two shorter pairs until I read this: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showp...&postcount=182
Yes - I was going to make one of my long pairs into two shorter pairs until I read this: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showp...&postcount=182
Keith
Analogue: Lenco L75 with 'PTP5' top plate in heavy birch ply plinth/re-wired Rega RB300/SAE 1000e HOMC Cartridge/Trans-Fi Reso-Mat/Moth RCM
Files: Voyage MPD/Custom PC/Supra USB/Beresford ASYNCH-1/Beresford TOSlink cable
CDP: Inca Katana SE
DAC: Beresford Caiman MkII (LiPo Battery powered)
Pre-Amp: Croft Micro 25 Power-Amp: Croft Series 7
Speakers: DIY Frugel-Horn Mk3 ('FH3') + REL Strata subwoofer
Headphones: Beyer Dynamics DT990 Pro (250 ohm)/Schiit Asgard Headphone Amp
Cables - Interconnects: Mark Grant G1000HD Speaker Cables: Van Damme Blue
Mains: Belkin PF30/Mark Grant DSP2.5 & DSP1.0 Rack: Target
Office System: HP Win8 Laptop/JRiver/MF V-Link2/Beresford Bushmaster MkII/Topping TP20 Mk2/Mission 771e
Bedroom System: Raspberry Pi/Raspbrian + MPD/HiFiBerry DAC/Topping TP20 Mk2/Mission 760i or DIY Hybrid Valve-MOSFET Headphone amp + Sennheiser HD595
Gallery
If i was you keith i would mount a set of female RCA's on the diecast part of the casing and join those to the small PCB connectin board with some high quality silver wire, that's what i was going to do before i had my brain wave/fart, that way you can use any cables you want, just make sure that you use the best possible wire, solder and RCA connectors, alternatively you could do away with the small PCB mounting board and wire the RCA's direct from the PCB on the arm, on refection that's the way i should have done it![]()
As the late Colonel Sanders once said
"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"
It is doable Kieth, just need to be careful
Cut the outer Teflon wire coating then flame strip the inner conductors, a gas powered soldering iron can be handy for this. Clean the stripped wires carefully with Isopropyl alcohol and if necessary trim away any heated plastic buildup at the base of the stripped wire with a very sharp hobby knife or scalpel.
Feed the ground wires into place first, but solder the centre pin first and then solder the ground and sort out the screen.
Single spur balanced Mains. Self built music server with 3 seperate linear PSU, Intel i5, 16 GB RAM no hard drive (various Linux OS). Benchmark Dac2 HGC, single ended XLR interconnects/Belkin cable. Exposure 21RC Pre, Super 18 Power (recap & modified). Modded World Audio HD83 HP amp. Hand built Monitors with external crossovers , Volt 250 bass & ABR, Scanspeak 13M8621 Mid & Scanspeak D2905/9300 Hi. HD595 & Beyer 880 (600 ohm) cans.
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts.
-Bertrand Russel
John.
Ok my 1st atempt at using the Pure A/V cables on my TT didn't quite go to plan, there was a massive amount of hum, so after having a closer look at things i decided to put some new RCA plugs back on the belkins, and insted of soldering them to the PCB inside the deck, i routed the 2 cables from the arm to a set of female phono plugs which i screwed to the silver part of the plinth at the rear of the deck which allows me to use any phono leads i wan't.
So got it all finished pluged in the belkins and fired her up, WOW!!!! what a huge difference, stereo image is far better, bass is deep and tight, and the mid and high bands are light and airey, instuments can easily be pinpointed, and all that just by swapping the stock Techie leads, ok it was a bit of a mess on, and i cocked it up on my 1st attempt, but it was well worth it in the end.![]()
As the late Colonel Sanders once said
"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"
For those interested, the fabled white (AD80300qn2M) cables are back on eBay :¬)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=300553532773
Alex
Main System: Digital: HP Laptop/M2Tech Hiface/Logitech Media Server/FLAC; Marantz SA7001 KI Signature SACD Player and other digital stuff into Gatorised Beresford Caiman DAC Vinyl: Garrard 401/SME 3009 SII Improved/Sumiko HS/Nagaoka MP-30
Amplifier: Rega Brio R. Speakers: Spendor SP1. Cables: Various, mainly Mark Grant. Please see "about me" for the rest of my cr@p! Gallery
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There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing and be nothing Aristotle
Found some more for yer fellers http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Arcam A38 phono amp
Arcam P85 power amp
Arcam CD17
Arcam D33
Project Genie 3 Turntable/2M Blue
Arcam DT 91 DAB/FM Tuner
Monitor Audio GX200speakers
Soundstyle 5 Support Rack
Atlas Equator Integra IC,s
Chord Carnival Silverscreen Speaker cable.
Honnestly guys, i've done a side by side test and there is no difference between the white ones and the grey ones, if they are sold in pairs they are the same cables just the grey ones are a bit longer and in the newer colours, that's it. Now there is a belkin cable that looks the same as the white ones but it is a different construction and it's sold singley and is ment to be a digital cable, i've never tried this cable as a normal analogue interconnector so don't know if it sounds better or worse
As the late Colonel Sanders once said
"I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"
Location: Troon
Posts: 2,439
I'm tony.
The single grey ones have a yellow coloured insert on the plugs.Model number is AV51200ea04.I have 4 of these which I use as 2 stereo pairs.I found in my system they sound better than the grey stereo pairs with the red and blue plug inserts.The 04 at the end of the code is length in feet.The stereo pairs I got were 2.4m or 8 feet in old money.