Didn't get one of those ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by user34
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Didn't get one of those ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by user34
Get them from pretty much any DJ shop, cost peanuts. or eBay.
Cheers for letting me know. Never really thought about it to be honest as John's custom ones look the business anyway...!Quote:
Originally Posted by user34
John's do look a thing of beauty, But generally one has to wait for beauty;)
Hi Jim,Quote:
Originally Posted by jimb0
Nice one on the bargain SL1210. I hope it works well for you :)
Interesting choice of cartridge with the AT150MLX. It's probably about one of the best MM cartridges on the market right now, and is superbly detailed (but not in a clinical way) in the Audio Technica tradition, beautifully built too, but in the wrong system could be somewhat bass light. AT cartridges tend to have this kind of signature but it's not a problem in well balanced systems.
Thing is though you might love the DL-110 so much that you don't want to change it. Maybe I'm just biased towards moving coils but I'm not sure moving from a DL-110 to an AT150MLX is an out-and-out upgrade. There will be differences for sure but make sure the AT is what you're looking for before shelling out the necessary funds - perhaps by arranging to listen to someone's system where one is in use?
If you're 'into' MMs more than MCs then you should also check out the new range of Nagaokas, available from Musonic (see link below). These have a more 'meaty' balance, without sounding too 'heavy', but are also nicely detailed through the top and midrange. I suppose it depends if you want a weightier presentation or one that's a bit brighter and lighter. If you like brightly coloured cartridges the Nags certainly look funky!
The MP-150 or MP-200 would be an interesting alternative to the AT-150MLX. The MP-200 was recently reviewed in Hi-fi World.
http://www.musonic.co.uk/
Click on 'Cartridges', then on 'Nagaoka'.
Marco.
Marco,Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
The AT150MLX is on my radar, but it doesn't seem to be available in the Euro Zone, or even in the EEC, so risk I import duties and VAT. Not that it would ultimately dissuade me. Afterall I've got the good stuff from KAB on order, but I won't get that until august.
I've decided to look down the Nagaoka way, I'm getting a dormant MP11 boron from Steve Shiels. I'm hesitating for one of the AT headshells, I haven't been able to decided if the LH-13, LH-15 & LH-18 differ only in weight, because I read somewhere that the LH-13 was "stubby" and maybe difficult to install a cartridge. I've seen these 'shells at $62 on ebay.
cheers
Thanks for the info on the Nagaokas I will find out a bit more about them. The DL110 will definitely be going in there first for a decent amount of time first. I have got hold of a Funk Anchomat which a number of different people have recommended and have ebayed a second, 100% good, Technics arm - can't wait for it to turn up and actually spin some tunes!
Second arm, brand new with all accessories arrived this morning. I fitted it and slapped the Denon cart in the headshell - a 2 minute job with removable headshell and the alignment tool. As I already had the cart total outlay was £110; result = big grin.
Nice one, Jim. Keep us posted of any more shenanigans :)
Peter,
As far as I know the AT headshells differ only in weight as per their numerical reference. Given that the Nagaokas are not excessively big cartridges I would go for the middle option and try an LH-15. The LH-18 may be too heavy in terms of mass.
Regarding the AT-150MLX, I think you can only get them form the US or Japan, but if you're set on one I wouldn't let that hold you back. There's always a chance that such a small item will 'sail through' customs without you incurring any import duty or tax charges. This has happened to me on a few occasions ;)
Hey, I heard Gromit's bagged a PL-71 of his own from Ebay. Maybe he'll decide to post some pictures of it here, too! :ner:
Marco.
If you insist.... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...1/IMG_2158.jpg
:)
Hmmm... I rather like the look of those things.
:)
Nice one, Rich. I hope it works out well for ya :smoking:
Have you had a chance to play around with the Sumiko and Zu yet? I'll probably need the Zu back soon to use with another cartridge I'm trying (and the leads too if you don't want them) so let me know the score :)
Marco.
Hi Marco - funnily enough I've spent the morning comparing the 2 headshells and also swapping the cables around. Between the headshells there's absolutely no difference that I can detect - I even weighed them on a jeweller's scale on which they weighed exactly the same (12.7g with the Cardas leads).Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
The leads are very close - the Cardas is perhaps slightly more brightly lit with the Sumiko (litz) leads being a tad more forceful.
A useful exercise and one which makes one realise the benefit of headshell/lead changing on these sorts of turntable/tonearms. :)
I can't use the AT headshells unfortunately as the Dorian has its own threaded body. :(
I didn't think there would be much, if any, difference between the headshells. The only reason I went for the Zu was because I didn't like the fact that the fingerlift on the Sumiko (a completely detached affair) was in a different finish to the headshell itself (purely a visual thing) and I felt the metal alloy construction on the Zu appeared to be finished to a higher standard (it seemed more nicely polished). That's the way it looked anyway on the respective websites! :)
Regarding cartridge leads, try going back to the standard ones on the Technics headshell and see what happens... So, yes, you're right it is a useful exercise in comparing the effect of different leads. It also gives you an idea of what to expect when the arm is fully rewired with decent cable.
This will apply to the arm in the Pioneer as well as the one on the SL-1210. I still feel that the 1210 has the more potential, especially once the separate PSU has been added. I'd lay a bet that a fully KAB modified 1210 would outperform the Pioneer, Audioorigami rewire or not! Perhaps we could have a shoot-out of both decks when you've finished your fettling? :gig:
If you no longer need the headshells, leads and counterweight balance pop them back to me in the post. What are you doing about mats, btw?
Marco.
My brass counterweight arrived from John this morning which I will try today. I also got a second technics headshell for fiver off the bay. It came with a freebie cartridge body attached - an ortofon OM series, anyone know if it's worth getting one of the better styii for this?
Yes, if you want to become a DJ; no if you don't ;)
Marco.
Look what the postman brought me this morning :)
http://img901.mytextgraphics.com/pho...4b2e0un21.jpeg
John is a gent & pleasure to do business with. Plus, I am enjoying much better sound. :) :smoke:
And he only sent it out yesterday! I know, mines on the way, with a bit of luck I'll get it in less than two weeks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Yomanze
Nice one, Yom! :)
The brass counterweight balances make quite a difference, particularly when you're using a 103. What improvements have you noticed?
Yes John is a great guy. Hasn't posted here for a while, though... Is his health ok do you know? Last time we spoke he wasn't very well.
The Sumiko you've got looks a bit different from the ones I've seen shown here:
http://www.needledoctor.com/Sumiko-HS12-Headshell?sc=9
Does it still have the separate stainless steel finger lift?
Marco.
I haven't noticed a lift, but don't need it :P The logo is different on my headshell as Sumiko has re-branded, mine looks identical to the one if the pic apart from that. The most immediately noticable changes to the sound is it sounds more "solid" and tangible. Decay on instruments more pronounced & vocals sound great. Will have a proper listen though before I say more!
John seemed fine health-wise, he has just knocked out three sets of counterweights hehe.
No worries, dude. I prefer hand cuing (it's more accurate, I feel) so I always use the finger lift :)
What differences did the brass counterweight make to your ears?
Marco.
See my previous post for comments on first impressions of counterweight. May I add "where the fuck did that deep bass from??" to them :P Read my earlier post back & came across like I was talking about the headshell's difference to the sound!
The Sumiko in the picture is similiar to the one I have and to the extra one I've ordered. It comes with a black finger lift that has to be installed via the cartridge fixing bolts. I got mine from Analogue Seduction on Uk.ebay. I must be getting sick :mental::lol: , I plan to have firstly cartridge shoot outs, and then when I'm settled with one I really like, maybe I'll get a mono cartridge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
I plan to trawl through some of the classic cartridges from the 70s, like the ADC XLM for example. First up, is a Nagaoka MP11 boron. I think my mystery Grado might be a GF3+ or some such. It seems to ring a bell.
I'm certainly that the guys in the UK have got their brass ;)
Look forward to hearing your thoughts on the Nagaoka Peter.
I think I will join the club and order a Sumiko via ebay I am trying to take things in stages so that I can understand if and what the benefits are... Like Marco really need a fingerlift on the headshell would just feel wrong without.
I also have a Pickering V-15 that I am going to try in the other headshell, cheap but very musical and great bass on my Lenco so worth a try.
J.
Before getting the Technics I was using a spacearm (that'll have to find a loving home one day) which doesn't have a finger lift. It's a straight arm with what serves as the headshell cut at an angle, so there's room to hook over the finger. I didn't install the finger lift on my Sumiko, and use it as I used the Spacearm. But then, I like automatic transmission cars :ner:, so the cueing lever gets used.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimb0
I'll install the Nag over the weekend I'm sure, Steve S., if his reading this, is going to wonder how :scratch: ;) .
cheers
Hello boys.:) sorry not been around here for a while, perhaps i should explain why, i have a severe problem with prolapsed discs, and have had a couple removed so far with prolly more to come, this means i am either in too much pain to do anything/ cant stand for long at machines or off my face on codiene if i have to stand/walk for longer than a few minutes, some weeks are better than others and at the moment its not as bad as it can be, hence i was able to do a few C/W`s for those that asked.Quote:
Originally Posted by Yomanze
So thats cleared that up, i wouldn`t normally explain these things on a forum but would not want anyone to feel i was i was shunning this place or not wanting to help out.
sometimes i just dont have anything interesting to say.:scratch:
Glad to hear the royal mail were on the ball for once and that you are hearing the improvements made by fitting this C/W, i should have patented the thing:doh:
If this is the result of you being off your face on codeine then keep on the stuff ;-)
I have stuck ended up with just the largest of the 3 weights balancing the DL110 on original headshell. To my ears there is a very positive increase in bass definition over the technics weight. My testing methodology was to play a few tracks of 'Blues & Roots' by Charles Mingus then stick the brass counterweight on and then play the whole thing ;-)
Sorry to hear you are not in the best of health John, really appreciate your efforts and would highly recommend your work to anyone else.
Seconded! Many thanks for your help John, and all the best for the future.
We shouldn't forget Scoobs remembered that it's 14.2mm too :eyebrows:
Hey John, nice to hear from you again mate! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by thrunobulaxx
I had a feeling you weren't keeping too well, and I'm sorry it still appears to be on-going... Hopefully you'll be right as rain soon once your discs have been sorted out. Just chill mate and get well as soon as possible. We always like to hear from you so when you have the energy keep posting!
You should have! The effect on a Technics arm is a complete no-brainer. Hey maybe some royalties would be due for the person who came up with the idea? :lol:Quote:
Glad to hear the royal mail were on the ball for once and that you are hearing the improvements made by fitting this C/W, i should have patented the thing:doh:
;)
Marco.
Sad to hear this John, hope things get sorted in the near future for you - wouldn't want to hear of you not being able to work metal! No reason why you couldn't patent it now & market your counterweights a bit more once you're well. At least your turntable's finished :)Quote:
Originally Posted by thrunobulaxx
The counterweights have made a huge difference. More "presence", tighter, deeper bass and the soundstage has expanded and become more "solid". It is also much easier to pick out individual instruments & the tonality, decay etc. has become more realistic. Could go on all day, but this is by far the best 'tweaky' upgrade in my setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yomanze
ohh, err Don't think I do Tweaky :mental: :lolsign:
:gig:
Hi Richard,
I hope you don't mind me pinching some stuff you've written on PFM about the Pioneer and the 1210. I think it's important to tackle a few of the points you have raised. Why you don't post this stuff here when there are more knowledgeable people regarding the 1210 than on PFM is anyone's guess! ;)
Anyway, you wrote:
Now don't get me wrong, I'm not about to dispute what you heard - I'm quite sure I'd have heard the exact same as you if I had been there. However, what I think you should make clear when writing your viewpoint and making comparisons is to stress that what you have is a completely unmodified SL-1210 - it is not something that is performing at its full capacity; in fact in my experience your deck is likely to be achieving no more than about 65-70% of its true potential. I know because I've compared a standard SL-1210 to a fully KAB modified one at length.Quote:
As to the 71 - did a couple of hours' listening through headphones last night, to really get into the nitty-gritty of the sonic differences between the 1210 and the Pioneer. The Pioneer basically makes the Technics sound broken - it's more detailed, warmer, much more tonal colour, well...just more musically convincing. So much more information is getting through.
In the same way as the 1210, this has the same, almost uncanny knack of sounding just right The Pioneer builds on this, sounding bigger, more expansive and generally more musically logical, less processed if you like.
I've said before that an unmodified 1210 is good but nothing special and I stand by that. What you get is a superb motor unit, housed in a solid plinth, with a good quality tonearm. However it is quite seriously hampered by the awful internal wiring of the tonearm, the poor quality supplied phono leads and plugs, dire rubber mat, cheapo mains lead, and most importantly, the existing internal power supply is nothing special (in its standard form).
All these weaknesses are completely eradicated with the KAB mods, particularly when adding the PS-1200 regulated PSU which not only eliminates an electromagnetic field from sensitive source control circuitry but provides a cleaner supply to the motor with greater 'headroom' resulting in more accurate rotational speed stability, which trust me, impacts hugely on the deck's performance and its handling of music. Fluid damping and rewiring of the tonearm also eliminate the presentational weaknesses you're currently hearing with your stock 1210.
Let's look at a couple of important points about the KAB mods which haven't really been mentioned much so far. Going back to the PS-1200 PSU, not only is it fundamental to the deck's performance (as are all PSUs in every piece of hi-fi equipment) but crucially it allows the use of a decent mains lead (instead of the captive piece of crap supplied with the stock 1210) as the PS-1200 has an IEC socket at the back of the unit. Therefore for anyone who's heard the huge differences good quality mains leads make this effect also manifests itself (to quite a staggering degree when the right cable is implemented) and used to power the PS-1200. I use a Transparent Reference mains cable for the purpose and it makes a significant difference to the deck's performance. Other top quality mains leads will have a similar effect. This fact should not be underestimated.
Secondly, along similar lines, when the arm is rewired you can have it terminated in a high quality phono junction box which, as with the PSU, allows the use of top-notch cables (interconnects) of your choice to maximise the integrity of the source signal. This is absolutely crucial as no information lost at this stage can be recovered further down the chain. The fact is the supplied piss-poor interconnects and plugs on the stock deck are totally strangling that signal and that's if the earlier piss-poor internal tonearm wire has left much of the signal intact in the first place!! The improvement you heard with the headshell leads is only a *tiny* fraction of what's to come when the internal wiring is improved and then high quality interconnects are used. The combined cost of the interconnects and mains lead I use is one and a half times the cost of the deck fully modified!! But hey, I know not everyone is as mad as me… Sounds f*cking amazing though :eyebrows:
Anyway, don't take this the wrong way, Richard, I'm not 'having a go' because of the observations you've made, they are perfectly fair, but I think it's important to realise (and for everyone else reading) that what you have is a long way off what a 1210 is capable of when all its 'foibles' have been attended to. Only when you have something like this in your possession will you be in a position to say that you know what an SL-1210 really sounds like and can accurately judge it against other T/Ts. What you have at the moment is a very good deck, and like you say, a bargain at £300. But to enter the realms of the genuinely special and hear the 1210 for the giant-killer that it truly is takes a lot more than replacing a headshell and a few wires ;)
I just felt it was important to keep things in perspective :smoking:
Oh and as for this from Mr Dunn:
Well he wouldn't know because he's never heard a fully KAB modified 1210!! Doncha just hate people who make meaningless assertions on the basis of no practical experience! :ner:Quote:
The PL-71 in standard form will completely outclass a KAB modified 1210.
Like I said, I'm up for a proper comparison anytime. I genuinely have no idea what the outcome would be but it sure will be fun to find out :)
Marco.
Some of us never sleep :)
First of all, Marco, I'm sure your ultra fettled KAB 1210 is a stonking TT. I aspire in that direction myself, so I'm not disputing that.
Richard is making a comparison between unfettled PL-71 and unfettled SL1210. His point, as I see it, is that the Pionneer starts from better performance.
Those mods you've made to your KAB 1210 do add multiples to the orginal price, too! The power chord must be quite pricey, but moving on, have you ever tried a Missing Link Opus-F ?
cheers
Christ, what were you doing up at that time? Are the porn channels in France good then? :lol:Quote:
Some of us never sleep :)
;)
Absolutely. I totally appreciate that. I merely wanted to reiterate how good the 1210 gets when fully 'fettled' in case Richard had lost sight of this - the performance of the deck when fully modified is in a different league.Quote:
Richard is making a comparison between unfettled PL-71 and unfettled SL1210. His point, as I see it, is that the Pionneer starts from better performance.
Yes, an 'unfettled' PL-71 appears to be better than a stock 1210, but the point I was making is that there is much more scope to improve the 1210 than there is the PL-71, and when you do, the bar is raised by such a significant degree that it renders any previous comparison meaningless.
I think Richard needs to decide which way he wants to go. Does he spend money sending the PL-71's arm to Audio Origami to have rewired or does he do the same with the arm on the 1210 and go a bit further with it to hear what it can really do as I have outlined? Or does he just enjoy the PL-71 for what it is and concentrate on modifying the 1210? Personally, I would go for the last option as it limits the risk of wasted investment should the Pioneer fail at some point and at the same time provides an interesting reference point from which to judge a modified 1210 against a stock PL-71.
I'm just giving Richard as much information as possible to help him make that decision because I would hate him spending money modifying the PL-71 for him to later hear the likes of my fully 'tricked out' KAB 1210 and it outperforming the Pioneer (if that were the case). Or God forbid, the PL-71 going pop and all the money he's spent on it going down the drain... :(
It's all too easy to let the excitement of a new purchase cloud your better judgement. I'm just trying to give some balance :)
The Transparent Reference Powerlink I use is £750. I've not tried Missing Link Opus-F, Peter, but I rate many of the Missing Link products. They're 'no nonsense' designs based on scientific analysis (which is somewhat unusual for a cable manufacturer) and they're well built and reasonably priced for the quality on offer.Quote:
Those mods you've made to your KAB 1210 do add multiples to the orginal price, too! The power chord must be quite pricey, but moving on, have you ever tried a Missing Link Opus-F ?
Marco.
I do have cable TV, I don't watch porn, no really, I don't, well it's just research you see...;) Sometimes I just can't sleep, all kinds of stuff running through my head. Sometimes, too often, sad old git that I am, it's about hifi :mental::mental::mental:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
You know, I only discovered the meaning of the word fettled this spring, at Denby Pottery ( The missus loves that stuff, I think it's good too), it's about trimming excess and getting everything in order.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
There's always the possibility that the PL-71 is that good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
I was using Opus-f on an un XPS'd CDX with excellent results, NO perceivable loss of timing, and lower noise, more "relief" (French word, means detail/contrast). With a hydra and an XPS it still had great audiophile properties but the timing was a tad better with Naim cables.
But I'm looking forward to getting it back into service, it's actually a three tailed opus-F, with the Kab power supply and a yet to be selected phonostage.
As you predicted, LP playing has taken over. Have to force myself to listen to CDs and they sound good, too!
I got a Feickert guage today. I'll start a thread but I need to get some photos out of the camera, first. I used the Baerwald null points and that pushed the cartridge forward 5mm compared with the Technics guage!:confused:
Been on the verge of loosing my rag with analogue a few times of late, but we know it's worth it dont we, for when you finally nail it, it's spellbinding.
Took delivery of this yesterday...
http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...oneoff-002.jpg
...'kin hell, what a little box of tricks it is too. Not only has it somehow stopped the dirty great mains spikes and resultant pops from the fridge putting me on edge, it's given my 103 a shot of adrenalin straight into the heart. The Auditorium23 step up transformer is a dedicated denon 103 device, Marco very kindly loaned me his a while back, but I was in the middle of a hum problem and cable mess at the time and got nowhere with it really. Anyway at £375 it's seems pricey, but taken in context with the low price of the 103/variants and it's permanence, it's a killer product. I wont go into detail about the performance as it's been done far more eloquently elsewhere, but it has been the final piece of my analogue rig puzzle, and I dont think I can take it much further, so live, liquid and organic is it's contribution.
:smoking:
Nice!... Of course if you'd bought a proper cartridge in the first place.... :lolsign:
Hehe... Nice one, Scoobs :smoking:
And it even comes with a little badge now! That's bound to make all the difference ;)
I *know* exactly what you'll be getting now with your T/T/103 Pro/A23 set-up and I know how fantastic it will sound. When the 103 (especially the Pro) is optimised as such to maximum effect it sounds staggeringly good. The uninitiated who write it off quite simply don't know what they're missing... :eyebrows:
The A23 really opens up the top end, doesn't it, and gives oodles of gain, scale, and power way in excess of what is normally heard with a 103 - are you finding that too? :fingers:
How's the valve preamp doing, btw - are you happy with what that's doing now?
Marco.
:lolsign: yeah I know, I do everything arse backwards.
Yup this one has a go faster badge. lol
Marco, it's coming together nicely, the 103pro is clean and articulate and just natural and expressive at the top end and in this iteration would quickly wipe the sneer from any 103 skeptics face i'm sure. Deep bass is plain scary frankly, the dogs are spooked by it, and go upstairs.
The amp is great, I was pre-occupied initially with bloody cables and hum problems, and listened through cd only that was poorly situated temporarily (next to the active speaker) with cheapo interconnects but now its settled in and sounding sweeeet.
Nice phono stage scoobs, thankfully i have no need of such outboard devices as my pre-amp has one of the best sounding MC inputs stages i have listened to built in.:eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobs
As for the C/W, fair do`s it was marco`s idea for the original 1 piece type and a collective discussion with scoobs, marco and a couple of others that led to the 3 piece suite.
How could i patent 3 lumps of circular brass with screws in anyhow, its all been done before i seem to remember tho not in brass or if so plated.
I feel for Peter in France having to see the others posted on the same day already fitted and having to wait a week longer for his to land. :(
I have found that after making myself a new underslunky C/W for my RB250 and selling on the technoweight, brass equals more and tighter bass.:)
Was about to post a pic of it but not got the resizing issue sorted for this board as yet.
Thanks John, well I wanted to go full out toobs with my new phono/linestage, so this little box is now the last piece of the jigsaw.
Yes, nice one Marco for coming up with the idea and finding a fella to produce them! In all honesty John heavier these new 2/3 piece c/w's are worth their weight in gold never mind brass in upgrade terms, it takes a matter of seconds to hear the difference whether your arm is modified or not, and although I dislike the term, they are quite simply no brainers, and even better in a 'go faster' silver finish :smoking:
That's an interesting observation, John. I guess that brass must have different resonant properties, or whatever... I put the difference mainly down to the added mass the brass C/W gave over the stock Techinics weight, of particular advantage for those using DL-103s. Interestingly, I think I'm right in saying that those using 103s have noticed the greatest difference.Quote:
I have found that after making myself a new underslunky C/W for my RB250 and selling on the technoweight, brass equals more and tighter bass.:)
Adding extra mass and allowing metal to metal contact between C/W and arm stub (the standard Technics weight has a plastic shim in place), and allowing the C/W to be positioned as close as possible to the arm's pivot point, was what prompted the idea of the brass C/W. Initially I approached Johnnie from Audio Origami but he had too much on so he put me in touch with John and the rest as they say is history :smoking:
Do you know roughly how many you've sold now, John? It must be about a dozen.
Somehow, though, despite my best efforts I can't get Johnnie to join AOS. I get the feeling it's to do with politics between TXN, Paul/Kenny, and the history between them and me. Shame, but such is life. I live in the hope that he will reconsider some day...
Marco.
Don't worry, I'll survive ;) , In fact I'm off on two weeks vacation and I hope the weights arrive before I leave. But, if not, I'll have fun and games when I get back.Quote:
Originally Posted by thrunobulaxx
I've got two weeks of golf and mountain air, no to mention a few smelly cheeses to look forward to :)
I wonder if a one piece brass CW would work on a Haddock? :scratch:
Don't see why not TBH!
Hmmm.. Just remembered my mate has a lath, and I know how to use it! :)
I could do them in stainless but the price would almost double, it takes much longer to machine, aluminium would not have enough mass, Silver Steel might be ok, its non magnetic and not so tough as stainless, will look into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobs
How do i reduce the pixels in my pics without using photobucket ? my cybershot is set at "VGA" and this has always been ok for emails and other websites, my abilities with photoshop are limited, i know how to resize using the box thing pulled out but they are still too big, i tried with microsoft photo management and set the "webpage small" button but still to big :(
The brass ones could also be taken/sent to your nearest custom car/bike emporium to be chrome plated. Shouldn't cost too much for pieces that size?
Ah Ha. bleedin donut i am, just set my camera to email and it now gives me two pic one at 15kb and another at around 140.:doh:
Bugger thats too small
I just sprayed mine with Wilkinson own brand stainless steel finish, less than 3 squids and matches the rest of the arm nicely, as if it were stock.
Try again.:confused: