Fingers crossed for you Mike. :( (Loved the map, BTW! :lol:)
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Fingers crossed for you Mike. :( (Loved the map, BTW! :lol:)
I too was very interested in the map. I found it rather intriguing that Westchester has such neat 90 degree corners - not like any County in the UK.
Also, it's dead straight river near the coast and the large circular mountain range in the middle seemed to remind me of somewhere or other, though I can't quite work out where - maybe it was that Japanese mountain range that's 1200 metres above Sea Level.
Well, you can drop by. My address is:
1200 Technics Way
Matsushita, NY 01200
USA
:stalks:
The hurricane looks to be clearing out. I did see sun for about 10 minutes or so. Luckly no (major) power outages or destruction in NYC/Westchester my area that I know of right now. But there is lots of rain to go around.
We did not get the full blast of winds that were promised in our area. Long Island (the tip that sticks out at bottom east of the NY map) always gets hit the hardest during any major storm since they are costal.
Its been a pretty eventful week for New York and the Eastern Seaboard in the USA.
Earthquake: Check
Hurricane: Check
The New York Yankees becoming the first Major League Team to hit 3 Grand Slams in a single game: You bet we have that covered.
Rumor has it that the sizmic activity that impacted the Eastern Seaboard earlier in the week has the epicenter in Westchester due to some guy drilling into his TT. Again, this is just a rumor.
I think you missed the answer. In addition - stop playing with my toys!!!
(Cute pic)
Besides - how do you get the picture in the quote? I tried following the instructions in the FAQ, but I think I am missing something. I upload pics to the album on this forum, but i never see an arrow when I add the pics to a quote. And I do not have a website to upload the pics to.
Hmmm... lets try this...
Nope, not working the way I expect it to.
This is what I copied and pasted from the FAQ when doing a search on pictures. I get stuck on this part - I have a manage attachments where I see the file uploaded to the post/reply to thread, and the file is there. But no arrow to click on to attach the image to the reply the way I see in other posts. Wait, lets see if this works.
Attachment 5204
How do I add an image to a post?
If you have uploaded an image as an attachment, you can click the arrow next to the 'Attachment Icon' and select it from the list. This will be inserted into your post and can be located where you want it displayed.
OK, I got it now.
Now that Mike is safe and sound and still alive in one of the three Westchesters; I will try to explain the philosophy behind the ‘Bearing Base Plate’ and how it was designed to integrate with my Bearing and Copper Bonded Platter.
I designed and manufactured my first batch of High Precision Bearings some three years ago now. It was evident to me at the time that the existing platform for the bearing could be improved so as to provide a more rigid mounting onto the Alluminium chassis, and also provide a more positive clamping for my bearing using larger bolts, which can be effectively tightened up onto the coil stator assembly. This is possible because the new 1/8” Whit hex head bolts, are now threaded into the 6mm thick steel Base Plate, they are not self taps.
I designed the prototype Bearing Base Plate and provided the first unit to Mike in CAL USA. who is a mechanical person of great ability as a result of his connection with aeroplanes of the aggressive type!
We also discussed the advantage of such a Base Plate in raising the effective height of the “assembly” so that VTA (for other arms) could be more easily obtained by virtue that the Base Plate was 6mm thick.
However my concern with the bearing Base Plate was the level of average DIY skill required to install it. However all those who have received one have had no problems and have said that it is not that difficult, which is satisfying as I did try to optimize the positioning of the bolts for ease of drilling and to avoid the strengthening ribs underneath the chassis.
Mike in this thread, has made mention of the raised portion around the three holes which he calls taps. These are in fact the plain holes which take the long self-tapping bolts which normally secure both the bearing and the coil assembly to the chassis. You can see from his pics that the holes are surrounded by raised lugs on the edge of the bearing well.
Now if you purchase only my bearing, as most people do; then you will be using these long self-tap bolts to secure your new bearing to the chassis in the normal way, nothing changes. The large majority of people who have chosen this first option are happy with the greatly improved sonics the bearings provides and stay at this point on the upgrade path.
Now to address the real objective of this post:
The Bearing Base Plate serves essentially two functions,
a) to provide a more rigid foundation for my bearing. and
b) to effectively raise the whole assembly up by 6mm ( the thickness of the Base Plate) so as to provide more room for the adjustment of VTA on the various arms that are now being used with the SL1200.
Now for those people who are not interested or inclined to carry out the work required to fit the Base Plate, then the purchase of the bearing on it’s own is the obvious option and is certainly the choice of the majority of SL1200 people. The Base Plate does not form a mandatory part of my bearing assembly, purely an option.
If you are contemplating the purchase of one of my platters in the future and /or require to raise up the platter for easier VTA adjustment on the tone arm of your choice, then you may wish to obtain a Base Plate. The choice of upgrade path is up to the person concerned.
My Copper Bonded Platter will run very happily without the Base Plate.
The Base Plate has been designed so that it can be fitted later, in keeping with my objective to provide an upgrade path according to the finances and inclination of the particular enthusiast. If you buy the Base Plate at a later date after you have installed my Bearing (as many people have done) then you will also get the new bolts, which will fit directly into the threaded holes in the Base Plate. Thus more securely clamping the bearing and coil assembly together.
Mike also talked about the notch in the chassis, which fits a protrusion on the OEM bearing, he showed a pic of it. The notch and protrusion do not have anything to do with the operation of the bearing assembly or it’s location or rotation, as the three bolts do all this.
Rather, they were probably included by the original designers as a way of quickly locating the bearing into the chassis so that the three self-tap bolt-holes would quickly line up for insertion of the long bolts during production-line assembly.
Remember they were probably producing many thousand a week and would be using air driven screwdrivers for speed of assembly.
I did consider providing a notch in the Base Plate to locate the OEM bearing, however this would be a somewhat hollow exercise as the Base Plate would be a useless overkill when used with the OEM bearing or any modified version which uses the original soft fragile alluminium alloy casting.
In conclusion I must state that the fitting of my High Precision Bearing and a replacement external Power Supply of your choice are the most important upgrades that will immediately show considerable sonic improvements.
Whichever you choose to do first is optional, although I would think that replacement of the power would probably be the first choice.
Then if finances and/or inclination permit, you can get the Bearing Base Plate and at a later time the Platter.
Some however may wish to approach the problem with a big bang, and fit all the upgrades at the one time as many have, thus enjoying the immediate results of the sum total combined improvement in sound quality.
Glad you are ok Mike and while a lot of damage has been done (including some deaths :() Irene did not quite damage America as badly as had been feared.
However seeing some of the streets of New York under a few feet of water was quite a dramatic thing to see.
Regards D S D L
Thanks for the well-wishes D.
I had to work from home because the rail line I take to go to work was not operational today. There was flooding in a near-by station that my rail passes through, so passage was not going to be possible on my line. The rail line was so bad that they had to stop service on all three of their lines. Two of those lines are now back in operation, but my line is still up in the air for tomorrow.
There is also a highway which runs parallel to my station stop. This highway (along with a few others) was completely shut down due to flooding.
Power outagaes are scattered throughout NY. I am pretty fortunate that the hurricane did not impact my area.
Life should return back to normal by the end of this week for most who has been impacted throught this ordeal.
Mike
Good to hear you are all okay Mike :)
Keiths,
We get some heavy Atlantic storms in the Western Isles from time to time. A few years back before we moved here, a storm blew in and the wind speed was measured at 140 MPH. It caused widespread damage and some unfortunate people lost their lives over on the North end of the Isle of South Uist.
Paul
Mike New,
Wasn't that me who got the prototype base plate? ;)
Your bearing w/baseplate, platter, and SME armboard are still making wonderful music on my SL1210 :)
Hi Pete,
Yes it was you, I must have had a seniors moment, or too much red!!
Nice one, Westchester Mike. For some reason I missed this thread completely, but you may be interested in comparing your installation with mine - I think I may have Mike New's prototype version :)
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...988#post148988
I just read a piece on the Technics 1200 mk6 , which of course never happened.
The significant tweek seemed to be " improved damping to the motor".
I would speculate the base plate would have a similar effect.
My personal SL1200 is a MK6 (black) which I got from Japan fitted for 120V which of course did not worry me. I had a close look at the PCB and could not detect any real difference between it and a MK5. In fact there seems to be no difference between the MK6 and the MK5.
Hello Martin.
I do not know the differences between the prototype versus the production type bearing base plate that Mike New is offering. Mike would be the source to go to if you are intruged to find out.
I only went over it briefly, but Your thread looks like a condensed version of my thread. :eyebrows:
Your platter looks elevated from the base compared to mine. Perhaps you ordered the platter before or after purchasing the base plate? Nice work by the way!!!
The one thing your thread is missing compared to mine (which may explain why your thread is a condensed version of my thread) is the geography lesson of your location. :stalks: Remember - include pictures and exact co-ordinates when any of us wants to stop by to hear your Dynavector!!!
Is an armboard manufactured to allow Dynavector arms to be used on the Technics?
Hi Mike
Yes, the platter is elevated and I believe Mike has changed the design slightly since then so that it sits slightly lower.
About the geography lesson - see, I just kept my head down and hoped that everyone knew where Basingstoke is. However, based on my visits to the US some of you guys don't even know where the UK is :lol:
I had my arm board custom machined in Germany but I'm sure it could be reproduced without too much difficulty and the DV website gives all the dimensions and offsets. Do you fancy one?
Hi folks,
In actual fact I can produce my Copper Bonded Alluminium Platters to any height, (whithin reason) The only restraining parameter is the subsequent weight. What I have tended to do for all users is to produce a platter which is about 2mm above the nominal height of the OEM platter.
But remember my Bearing Base Plate has the affrect of raising the whole assembly up by 6mm by virue of it's thickness.
The main constraint in regard to platter height (thickness) is the fact the higher we go the greater we move above the ideal level of the centre of gravity. The spindle taper really limits what we can do in this regard.
My main objective is to get the centre of gravity as low as possible with respect to the existing design contraints.
In this regard it would appear that I have been very successful , if one can judge from the number of happy users.
I have designed a new bearing which would overcome these contraints, and in fact would protrude below the existing bearing well, ( a longer bearing) but the problem is that it would never be compatible with the existing geometry of the SL1200 system. For instance the taper diameter would be much larger and therefore both the bearing and a matching platter would have to be invested in at the one time, which would entail a much higher immediate investement cost.
My twins are quite happy with their SME arms installed. (I would have prefered a silver finish on the arms though.) Had I known that it would be possible to put a Dynavector on the Technics, I would have taken that route.
Have you ever had a bakeoff between an SME versus your Dynavector? If so, what were the results?
And of course all Americans know that the UK is located somewhere in Great Britiain, which is located on the 5th planet of our Solar System. (And some people think the world is round. Sheesh...)
How does the Dynavector handle warps? My only complaint performance wise about the SME vs. the Technics is that the SME does not handle warps well.
the DV is a warp king and tracks them with seeming impunity. You can't even hear them most of the time. It's the low mass stub-arm that achieves it.
Relevance??:scratch:
He's from Westchester!
Keep up at the back... :doh:
Anyone in the London area fitted the Mike New bearing baseplate ??
I am not from London, but if you are thinking of investing in the Mike New Baseplate, I highly recommend it.
maybe Marco may be using the baseplate as he is much closer than I towards London. From what I last remember, he is nearly 200 miles away from London. I am just a mere few thousands of miles away.
Can someone make this a sticky again?
Martin Taylor fitted one of the first batch of Bearing Base Plates that I made using the bolting method rather than the epoxy method now used.
He lives near Newbury I believe.
I know I'm more than competant enough to do this myself. I fitted my external psu, Mike New bearing and ETP platter without any issues. The bearing baseplate 'feels' a bit more involved going by the instructions I received with it and the instructions and pics on this thread. I really dont think there's much margin for mistakes with dismantling of pcb and gubbings, drilling, gluing with strong epoxy and putting pcb and bits back. I'll tackle it soon as I'm sure it will be a very worthwhile upgrade :)
You’ll love the effect, Rob.
I mean just look at how little of the chassis is properly supporting the bearing, without the BBP in place, as it teeters on the edge of a big hole, ‘floating’ rather precariously on top of three raised screw threads:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/CLqBUn.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/537/5V8ZC6.jpg
How can that possibly offer a secure foundation for supporting the bearing? It is a fundamental weakness of the Technics, and as is shown below, the BBP solves it:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/661/xDf68X.jpg
…by allowing the bearing to sit flush on top of the chassis, and thus be firmly coupled to it, as is the case on all other properly engineered high-end turntables, such as for example, on a Garrard 301:
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/907/qBdiFs.jpg
The difference this makes over the stock arrangement on the Technics, in terms of bass weight and authority/lowered noise-floor, has to be heard to be believed!
Marco.
Thanks much Marco!!!
Right guys, I'm gone in ! :eek: Stuck at first hurdle :doh: Could someone kindly tell me exactly what Mikes instruction are referring to under Disassembly, item f) it says ' Carefully remove the three plugs attached to the cable forms from the main circuit board. One on each side of the board, (top, bottom and right hand side, when viewed from above.) Note: you may need to clip the cable clamps on the bottom cable form to give more freedom'. Any pics showing this would be much appreciated. As you can imagine, any f ups during this job could prove costly so better extra safe than sorry!
On a side note. I'm beginning to realise even more just how involved this is and that the pcb and all the wires (basically all the Techies gubbins have to come out and then be re: attached). I'd appreciated advise on the easiest way to do this. (I dont like messing with loads of wires, for fear of mixing them up, plus having to put them all back, but in this case I know I have to and so be it)
One tip, Rob, with wiring, is to take a nice close-up picture of things as they are before you start the dismantling process, then you have a guide as to how they should be when you’ve finished.
Sorry I can’t help you with anything else, but good luck! :)
Marco.
Great idea Marco - Thanks, Will defo do that. Looking down at my pcb with all the wires / plugs attached, I can see that I basically need to carefully unplug the plugs from the pcb and unsolder the wires which come from the external ps to the circuit board as per the instructions. Then unscrew the three black screws which hold the bearing in place and carefully lift the circuit board upwards and remove the bearing. Not gonna rush any of this. Pity it's dark now as I have to be at my sisters for 7pm to celebrate my twin niece and nephews birthday so I'll tackle this a bit at a time, as and when time permits :)