View Full Version : Deaf Row!
walpurgis
28-04-2015, 19:06
Is this really a good idea? I just bought these Tannoy T145 Ascots.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tannoy-Ascot-T145-Speakers-/271845206262?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=gfumqUjGO152JPSZ8ZCu27bs9F8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
They are amongst the least sought after pepperpot dual concentric models. The early plastic cones not being popular and the purists put off by the ceramic magnets. However, the ten inch drivers can be fitted with the excellent paper pulp Eaton or SRM 10B cones, which makes them far more serious contenders. Some don't take the 10" Tannoy DCs very seriously, but they actually pack a decent punch, face it ten inches is not exactly small. I have possible plans for the drivers and the resulting speaker system may surplant my current (and very fine) Cheviot II speakers.
Stock image:
http://i61.tinypic.com/1628wuc.jpg
I'll bung some proper photos here once I've picked these up.
The Black Adder
28-04-2015, 19:13
Cool..
I like the 10" and 12" DC's... I always felt that the cabs let them down but these do look great! Get the re-coned, refreshed crossover and they should be keepers.
Bigger drivers than they look. Are they going with your philips ones?
walpurgis
28-04-2015, 19:39
Cool..
I like the 10" and 12" DC's... I always felt that the cabs let them down but these do look great! Get the re-coned, refreshed crossover and they should be keepers.
I intend to recone them once I source the right cones. That may take a little while. Annoyingly a mint set of Eaton cones with good rubber surrounds sold on eBay recently. They'd have been perfect, but at that time obviously, I didn't know these would come along.
I'd really like to house these drivers in (comparatively) compact transmission line cabinets. Never seen Tannoy DCs in such cabinets yet. The 12" is a little large for a domestically sized TL box, but the 10" should be OK.
walpurgis
28-04-2015, 19:52
Bigger drivers than they look. Are they going with your philips ones?
No, the Philips are a separate project. Which I must sort soon. They don't need much work.
Trouble is I'm currently working on these instead:
http://i58.tinypic.com/16lxqpk.jpg
A couple of nice vintage cabinets into which I'm installing a pair of high sensitivity full range 8" drivers (not the Philips), to use with my Rafaelite 6V6 valve amp.
Too many projects on the go really.
They look pretty solid built. Keep you busy all those jobs.
southall-1998
28-04-2015, 21:22
My experience with Tannoy speakers is very limited.
The longest experience I had was with the Prestige Sandringham. I think they have 8'' Dual Concentric drivers. Nicely made cabs...same goes to the grill covers.
S.
walpurgis
29-04-2015, 10:31
These are they! :)
http://i60.tinypic.com/2eqgmiw.jpg http://i61.tinypic.com/xer194.jpg
To go in my spare vintage cabs. Weedy little full range 8" units from Taiwan, which have pretty small magnets and a peak power handling of 10 watts. Funny thing is, when I tried them in free air using my little valve amp, they sounded really nice. I reckon they will do a decent job. I have other full range drivers I can swap over to if I'm not happy anyway.
dont need huge magnets and the sensitivity looks good. no mucking about with complicated xovers either
walpurgis
29-04-2015, 10:55
That's what I thought. Keep it simple. I've got a box of spare tweeters and just might add one with a small cap, to come in at say 12 kHz, to give the top a little more. We'll see. Need to work my port size now. Tempted to use a resistive port.
southall-1998
29-04-2015, 11:26
:popcorn:
S.
Get your vented box calculator out Geoff :lol:
Brigadoon
30-04-2015, 21:50
Geoff what are those cabinets? They look very interesting.
walpurgis
01-05-2015, 11:38
Well they're here.
http://i58.tinypic.com/20psvpw.jpg
The Tannoy Ascots. I picked them up at 11.00 this morning.
Just wired them up and I thought Oh My Gawd, these sound horrible.
But they don't, it was just that I'd forgotten my Class A power amp like a few minutes to warm up. As the amp is warming they are sounding sweeter by the moment.
I swear that shorter throated compression driver in the ceramic magnet pepperpot Tannoys sounds better than the long throat one in the alnico jobs (yes I know the coil and diaphragm are similar). The imaging, mid and top on these is superb.
And what's this story going around, about horrible colouration with these first series plastic Tannoy cones? I have to say it seems minimal really, There's just a touch of it, similar the the DC1000 really, but less so. I was going to look out for some SRM or HPD295A cones to install, but I reckon treatment with a plastiflex type doping would likely remove most the of the colouration and the effect on sensitivity would be minimal. We shall see.
I reckon these sound better than a pair of similar sized System 1000 Tannoys I had a while back.
(yes, that is my Cheviots behind them :))
southall-1998
01-05-2015, 14:15
You've still got that big hill of bubble wrap shoved in the corner.
Southall memories....:D
S.
walpurgis
01-05-2015, 15:16
You've still got that big hill of bubble wrap shoved in the corner.
Southall memories....:D
S.
Yup. It's still there. If I had room in the garage that's where it would be. It won't go through the loft hatch.
walpurgis
02-05-2015, 19:07
Just experimenting. This has had a very noticeable effect.
http://i57.tinypic.com/vwx4pl.jpg
Basically, it's the sticky strips cut off grey 'Post It Notes' and stuck on the cones at angles. Easily removed. It has definitely killed some of the plastic cone signature tonality. This is just to get a measure of what effects can be obtained. I have ideas about peelable rubber paint too.
Just experimenting. This has had a very noticeable effect.
http://i57.tinypic.com/vwx4pl.jpg
Basically, it's the sticky strips cut off grey 'Post It Notes' and stuck on the cones at angles. Easily removed. It has definitely killed some of the plastic cone signature tonality. This is just to get a measure of what effects can be obtained. I have ideas about peelable rubber paint too.
You'll be buying gold fuses next :eyebrows:
walpurgis
02-05-2015, 19:36
You'll be buying gold fuses next :eyebrows:
I guess if I put one on a chain and wore it around my neck it would be a good talking point. :D
walpurgis
02-05-2015, 20:20
The plan is to get these drive units sounding the way I want and then building a pair of tapered transmission line cabinets for them. The 12" drivers in my Cheviots are too big for me to build sensible sized TL enclosures for. Hence these 10" drivers. I've got a hankering for some TLs and they have to be Tannoy DC driven.
I can't believe how much difference those little paper cone stickers have made, I expect I could stick them on the reverse side of the cone out of sight and achieve similar effects.
Sure you could buy something prettier and in a suitable colour easily enough...try a stationary shop on ebay or amazon.
walpurgis
02-05-2015, 20:41
Sure you could buy something prettier and in a suitable colour easily enough...try a stationary shop on ebay or amazon.
It's all in hand! A few other little tricks to try yet. I also want to get the gauze dust caps out without marking the cones.
Just experimenting. This has had a very noticeable effect.
http://i57.tinypic.com/vwx4pl.jpg
Basically, it's the sticky strips cut off grey 'Post It Notes' and stuck on the cones at angles. Easily removed. It has definitely killed some of the plastic cone signature tonality. This is just to get a measure of what effects can be obtained. I have ideas about peelable rubber paint too.
Copydex was always a favourite of mine for cones.
walpurgis
02-05-2015, 23:02
Copydex was always a favourite of mine for cones.
Copydex is similar to silicone rubber, in that it does not offer great damping, although it will add mass. Polyprop and Ployurethane compounds seem better.
walpurgis
11-05-2015, 21:46
Current SUT line up:
http://i58.tinypic.com/2iktdhs.jpg
Left to right, Luxman AD8000/8020, Art Audio pair, Osawa OS-100T, Fidelity Research FRT-3
Each sounds excellent, but the collection has to be thinned. The Art Audio are being sold I expect, dunno why really, they sound as good as the others and are very quiet, no hint of hum. The Osawa is staying. It's the rarest and sounds superb. The Luxman I'm just getting used to, but it's promising. As for the FRT-3. It sounds great and I'm rather fond of it. Bit of a dilemma really. :)
walpurgis
13-05-2015, 19:02
Changed my mind about the Art Audio SUTs. I've decided to hang on to them. I've been using them again and realise how good they are. Very quiet, nice open and solid sound and smooth at the top.
I may have a speaker renovation/modification project to bung on here in a couple of weeks. My workshop is halfway through a five year overdue sort out, so I'll have room to set up all the equipment and do some interesting stuff!
southall-1998
13-05-2015, 21:16
Sometimes I miss hearing your lovely system, Geoff.
Might come down to West London, sometime next year for a dew days. Wouldn't mind seeing those corner speakers!
S.
walpurgis
13-05-2015, 21:17
Whoopee! I love it when a plan comes together.
My latest Tannoy purchase is the Ascots and although I've had a little playing around with damping the cone, ideally paper pulp replacement cones were what I had in mind.
So, what do we have here? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271869535920?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Just bought. A pair of SRM 10B cones in what looks like very nice condition. To be dispatched to me in a couple of weeks after I return from a break.
Once I get these fitted there should be a big transformation in the sound. I was very lucky to find a low resonance rubber roll surround set, they are rare. Most 10" Tannoy cones on eBay have the hard corrugated edge.
walpurgis
13-05-2015, 21:18
Sometimes I miss hearing your lovely system, Geoff.
Might come down to West London, sometime next year for a dew days. Wouldn't mind seeing those corner speakers!
S.
You're welcome any time Shane.
Whoopee! I love it when a plan comes together.
My latest Tannoy purchase is the Ascots and although I've had a little playing around with damping the cone, ideally paper pulp replacement cones were what I had in mind.
So, what do we have here? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271869535920?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Just bought. A pair of SRM 10B cones in what looks like very nice condition. To be dispatched to me in a couple of weeks after I return from a break.
Once I get these fitted there should be a big transformation in the sound. I was very lucky to find a low resonance rubber roll surround set, they are rare. Most 10" Tannoy cones on eBay have the hard corrugated edge.
look the business and a good price too. Nice to see a man who knows what he's doing
walpurgis
13-05-2015, 21:37
look the business and a good price too. Nice to see a man who knows what he's doing
I'd been keeping a close eye on eBay for a set of these or Eaton cones. Should be a fun project!
walpurgis
29-05-2015, 19:36
http://i58.tinypic.com/20psvpw.jpg
The Tannoy Ascots. I picked them up at 11.00 this morning.
Just wired them up and I thought Oh My Gawd, these sound horrible.
But they don't, it was just that I'd forgotten my Class A power amp like a few minutes to warm up. As the amp is warming they are sounding sweeter by the moment.
I swear that shorter throated compression driver in the ceramic magnet pepperpot Tannoys sounds better than the long throat one in the alnico jobs (yes I know the coil and diaphragm are similar). The imaging, mid and top on these is superb.
And what's this story going around, about horrible colouration with these first series plastic Tannoy cones? I have to say it seems minimal really, There's just a touch of it, similar the the DC1000 really, but less so. I was going to look out for some SRM or HPD295A cones to install, but I reckon treatment with a plastiflex type doping would likely remove most the of the colouration and the effect on sensitivity would be minimal. We shall see.
I reckon these sound better than a pair of similar sized System 1000 Tannoys I had a while back.
(yes, that is my Cheviots behind them :))
Just giving these babies another bashing. First time in about three weeks. I'm playing 'The Last Days of Gravity' by Younger Brother at the moment and giving it a bit of wellie. You know, these Ascots sound pretty damn good regardless of the plastic cones, my little trick of adding paper damping pads to the cones is definitely working.. That pinpoint imaging is all there and so is the superb 'pepperpot' mid transparency. They have plenty of punch and the bass is surprisingly extended and tight. The replacement paper pulp cones (SRM 10B ones) should arrive this week and I have a few tricks up my sleeve to advance the sound further.
southall-1998
29-05-2015, 19:42
Sounds interesting, Geoff.
You know, you should open an online business selling refurbished Tannoy's.
S.
walpurgis
29-05-2015, 19:58
Sounds interesting, Geoff.
You know, you should open an online business selling refurbished Tannoy's.
S.
I could actually do that, but there's a fair bit of competition around so it's not going to happen. However, I'm prepping my workshop and stocking up on materials so I can turn out some scarce replacement Hi-Fi parts. I won't be specific for obvious reasons, but I've spotted a few gaps in the market. (why is Tufnol so bloody expensive these days?)
Also, I keep mulling over various tonearm designs and have bought materials for experimentation. This is something I've been intending to do for the last couple of years. You can bet anything I do come up with will be unusual and of course will be featured here (and receive some stick no doubt :)).
A plug n play replacement for the 3009 tonearm cable sockets would be a good start...rather than those tatty ones on sale on the bay. I really need to take my deck out of service and do some things to it, but put it off time and again.
walpurgis
29-05-2015, 20:36
A plug n play replacement for the 3009 tonearm cable sockets would be a good start...rather than those tatty ones on sale on the bay. I really need to take my deck out of service and do some things to it, but put it off time and again.
Interesting suggestion. Of course I'd have to buy one for evaluation first though. Shame I didn't keep any of those I've had.
walpurgis
03-06-2015, 20:40
I'm expecting my SRM 10B cones tomorrow. Hope they get here intact, then I'll post a little reconing project on here.
Ordered resistors for a -3db L pad just now. I want to be able to switch in a very small HF energy cut as needs be and the standard Tannoy Ascot crossover adjuster just appears to provide roll off. I don't want to use an L pad pot as there's usually an insertion loss which may be too much.
I'll be keeping an eye open for a pair of SRM, LGM crossovers anyway. I reckon the Cheviot II units may be suitable too.
walpurgis
05-06-2015, 20:30
The cones arrived today. They look excellent:
http://i57.tinypic.com/15ejuow.jpg
Started looking pair of LRM, SRM or Cheviot II crossovers now. I have put feelers out and am hopeful. :)
walpurgis
06-06-2015, 16:32
Well, Well. What do we have here?
Just unearthed from the walpurgis vaults. A pair of Tannoy HPD crossovers:
http://i58.tinypic.com/2myrfqv.jpg
These should do the trick with the Ascot 2528 model drivers (soon to be 2558 SRM 10B units). I'll give them a good service/going over and change the component values to match my Cheviot II 3128 crossovers. That should work OK as the main difference between the drivers is the bass cone. The magnets, coils and tweeters should be identical (but I'll do a bit of measuring to double check anyway).
walpurgis
15-06-2015, 20:50
Blimey!
I've just put my ADC 26 into my Mission 774 arm after not having heard one for quite a while.
http://i59.tinypic.com/2e3svfr.jpg
I'd forgotten how astonishingly good these cartridges are. They're virtually impossible to use in most arms because of the extremely high 60cu compliance. The 774 copes OK though. The sound is big, refined, uncoloured, truly transparent and enormously detailed. Very superior to what most MM cartridge users ever experience (OK technically it's an induced magnet cart). We're in the same territory as some pretty good MCs here. This really is pretty special, a superb sound.
The 26 definitely seems somewhat ahead of the excellent ADC 10E Mk.IV which is similar in design (and I like very much), but has lower compliance.
I just tried my spare ADC 27 stylus in the 26 (they are interchangeable). The 27's compliance is marginally lower. It sounded identical to me.
southall-1998
15-06-2015, 20:59
What 45 record is that, Geoff?
S.
Looks mean and moody mate. Nice deck too......but try a record next time, they sound slightly better:eyebrows:
walpurgis
15-06-2015, 21:17
Looks mean and moody mate. Nice deck too......but try a record next time, they sound slightly better:eyebrows:
Nothing wrong with that 45. It was Joni Mtchell 'Chinese Cafe', a very nice pressing even on a 45. I'd been playing some 12" Eat Static singles prior to that. Very fine.
walpurgis
15-06-2015, 21:33
Just substituted my JVC Z1S fitted with Z1E stylus. Normally I rate this cart highly, but after the ADC 26, everything just sounded smaller, flatter, more opaque and more closed in. Just shows how vastly capable the ADC 26 is, as the JVC is no slouch.
I'm only using the 26 to make sure all is as it should be prior to selling it, but I may be having second thoughts now.:scratch:
Just substituted my JVC Z1S fitted with Z1E stylus. Normally I rate this cart highly, but after the ADC 26, everything just sounded smaller, flatter, more opaque and more closed in. Just shows how vastly capable the ADC 26 is, as the JVC is no slouch.
I'm only using the 26 to make sure all is as it should be prior to selling it, but I may be having second thoughts now.:scratch:
I feel another sale approaching ;)
walpurgis
16-06-2015, 16:10
I feel another sale approaching ;)
I shall try a couple more ADCs tonight and see.
Whats a good price for a 774 geoff
walpurgis
16-06-2015, 17:37
Whats a good price for a 774 geoff
If you can get one for less than £200 these days, you're doing OK Grant. People are beginning to latch on to these and prices will continue rising. Who know's, they may eventually get the kind of cult following the LS3/3a has (except the 774 is more worthy :))
A bit steep for me I think, good arm or not..... eye will keep my I open :eyebrows:
Blimey!
I've just put my ADC 26 into my Mission 774 arm after not having heard one for quite a while.
http://i59.tinypic.com/2e3svfr.jpg
I'd forgotten how astonishingly good these cartridges are. They're virtually impossible to use in most arms because of the extremely high 60cu compliance. The 774 copes OK though. The sound is big, refined, uncoloured, truly transparent and enormously detailed. Very superior to what most MM cartridge users ever experience (OK technically it's an induced magnet cart). We're in the same territory as some pretty good MCs here. This really is pretty special, a superb sound.
The 26 definitely seems somewhat ahead of the excellent ADC 10E Mk.IV which is similar in design (and I like very much), but has lower compliance.
I just tried my spare ADC 27 stylus in the 26 (they are interchangeable). The 27's compliance is marginally lower. It sounded identical to me.
Glad to hear you are enjoying the ADC 26. I may resurrect my ADC 25 (same generator and stylus as the 26) and pop it into my Breuer Dynamic Type 5A arm (effective mass 4g). The 26 also works well in the SME 3009 Mk.II (Improved ) fixed headshell arm (I bought the two together, but have since sold the arm).
Another arm which could be ideal for the 25/26 is the Infinity 'Black Widow' (effective mass 3g). I have one of these and since it has the SME style bed plate, it wouldn't be too much trouble swapping the arms.
Perhaps that could be a little project: comparing the performance of a 25/26 in two different, but suitable, arms.
walpurgis
16-06-2015, 22:23
Don't know if you're interested Barry, but I mentioned in 'Bargains on eBay' tonight a boxed ADC 25 set.
By the way, I checked my 26 stylus under a microscope today. The shanked diamond tip looks mint. I think I'll hang on to this one.
walpurgis
22-07-2015, 09:36
Just arrived.
Two lengths of rather rare Straight Wire 'Stage' speaker cable, just under 4.0m length each. It's quite chunky, but pretty flexible (unlike my Audioquest and Merlin stuff). I've been wanting some for a while. Straight Wire cables are a US make and are fairly scarce here, but they always sound good (I've got a few of their interconnects). I'll need to do a decent termination job on these, but I'm expecting good things. I'll report back and post another picture when they're done and tried out.
http://i59.tinypic.com/2zdud81.jpg
looks like 8 wires in there Geoff... how are you intending using them?
walpurgis
22-07-2015, 15:29
looks like 8 wires in there Geoff... how are you intending using them?
As a stereo pair. Not bi-wire.
walpurgis
18-08-2015, 22:37
Just reterminated the cables. They look better. I'll give them a try once I can reach the Hi-Fi. I've got huge piles of equipment in the way at the moment. Having a sort out!
http://i61.tinypic.com/2ec1y5f.jpg
Might as well mention the Philips speakers here, as this is my system thread, even though I did elsewhere earlier.
http://i58.tinypic.com/21m6g7t.jpg
Philips FWB-MCM11 speakers from charity shop for a fiver. Ribbon tweeters and alloy bass/mid unit. I'll wire them up in the next day or so and see what they sound like. Rumour has it they are OK!
they look nice. even if they are not youll get plenty spares
they are a little different to what i thought main driver wise.
walpurgis
19-08-2015, 09:41
Latest addition on the vinyl front. Grado F-1+.
http://i57.tinypic.com/v32ate.jpg
Yet to be tried out. Grados have a really nice mid presentation. I've not had one for years, so I thought I'd get another.
I used to have a Grado FTE+1, bought for silly money (~ £15) in 1980. For the asking price, the performance was incredible. Not sure if they are still available; I gave mine to a friend.
walpurgis
06-09-2015, 12:15
I used to have a Grado FTE+1, bought for silly money (~ £15) in 1980. For the asking price, the performance was incredible. Not sure if they are still available; I gave mine to a friend.
Good cartridge Barry.
My first Grado was an F3+. It sounded as good through the mid as the Decca Blue I had at the time.
Quite a few older Grados still get offered for sale. They always sound nice. Grado are my favourite MMs next to the ADCs (which aren't true MMs anyway).
walpurgis
15-09-2015, 23:26
No piccies to post (seeing as this is The Gallery), but I've just ordered a whole bunch of bits to try and make an LDR pre-amp. Lots of pure guesswork of course. I'm getting low impedance LDRs. If necessary I can bung resistors in series to make input impedance workable. LEDs and Halogen mini bulb light sources ordered too. I've got loads of small DC power supplies to try and obviously I'll have to experiment with voltage input via a suitable pot (I suppose I could use an LDR for that and just dim or raise the room lights :eek:). We'll see. I'll probably cock it all up! Not sure how progressive a light I can get from an LED anyway. The halogen will work and the lumen count should be OK.
No piccies to post (seeing as this is The Gallery), but I've just ordered a whole bunch of bits to try and make an LDR pre-amp. Lots of pure guesswork of course. I'm getting low impedance LDRs. If necessary I can bung resistors in series to make input impedance workable. LEDs and Halogen mini bulb light sources ordered too. I've got loads of small DC power supplies to try and obviously I'll have to experiment with voltage input via a suitable pot (I suppose I could use an LDR for that and just dim or raise the room lights :eek:). We'll see. I'll probably cock it all up! Not sure how progressive a light I can get from an LED anyway. The halogen will work and the lumen count should be OK.
OOh, nice project Mate. Keep me informed ;)
walpurgis
15-09-2015, 23:35
Keep me informed ;)
Grant. I'll make sure you're the first to be notified when I've died of cadmium poisoning! :eek:
Grant. I'll make sure you're the first to be notified when I've died of cadmium poisoning! :eek:
A scare story tbh. the cadmium is never going to vent, and Yes they are still legal as there is no alternative to them ...yet! interestingly they are still made in this country ;)
walpurgis
16-09-2015, 20:34
Now what do we have here? Arrived today, Eagle DL67 small vintage speakers from the seventies.
http://i57.tinypic.com/nfjvja.jpg
It's the contents I'm interested in. The main drive units are likely to be from Coral and should be top quality. The horn tweeters I believe were decent rebranded Foster (Fostex) units. I'm taking them apart now. It may take a while, as all the screw threads have been paint sealed. The drive units varied in these and other bass/mid drivers were sometimes used. Fingers crossed!
What size are these Geoff? 6"? hope you get lucky
walpurgis
16-09-2015, 21:50
What size are these Geoff? 6"? hope you get lucky
6.5"
walpurgis
16-09-2015, 22:01
Result (so far)!
I have one apart and inside is a single cone version of the old Eagle FR65 full range driver and of course the horn tweeter. The FR65 is more or less the equivalent of the Coral Flat 6. A fine driver. High sensitivity too.
http://i58.tinypic.com/2lxb4g9.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/14lssr5.jpg
I'll take the other one apart tomorrow and put a meter across them all, but these look good. The main driver is a full range unit and sounds extremely good. I've had a couple of pairs before. Perfect doped cloth roll surround on the main unit.
There is an 8" version. The FR8, which I've also had, but it's not as good.
Here's a Coral Flat 6 to compare
http://i60.tinypic.com/2h7lzia.jpg
Not identical, but closely related.
Very sweet mate. I know you like Coral stuff.
walpurgis
16-09-2015, 22:12
You'd be surprised how heavy the drivers both are. Pretty hefty for the size. I have a project in mind using only vintage drive units.
Clue. I'll have to design a steep 13.5 kHz supertweeter filter now.
walpurgis
27-09-2015, 23:24
Here we go again. Just ordered these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221472104176
They'll probably be used with another pair of smaller full range high impedance drivers I have my eye on and super tweeters.
Got so many projects in hand it's getting daft! :)
Yes. I've bought from this seller before. All excellent stuff.
walpurgis
01-10-2015, 20:12
Looks like I'm going idler again. Just bought a really sad looking GL75 off eBay. Going by the photos, the arm is trashed and the steel top plate will need a full refurb. Hopefully the main bearing, motor and idler, platter underside will be OK. Still, plenty of used spares available and I know these TTs well enough, having rebuilt loads. I'll see how bad things are when it arrives. This will not be a restoration, it will be a custom rebuild job. It was only £30 (+ carriage), so I can afford to bung a few quid at it!
Anybody got some speed decals? :)
walpurgis
01-10-2015, 21:08
got an arm in shed;)
Thanks, but I won't be using a Lenco arm Grant.
Didnt think you would but thought Id offer you it in case. its supposedly been fettled but never tried it
walpurgis
12-10-2015, 16:26
This revolting object is my next project, a Goldring Lenco GL75 (see post 72):
http://i61.tinypic.com/10ge8ok.jpg
http://i61.tinypic.com/23mvvxw.jpg
http://i62.tinypic.com/seui6p.jpg
Probably about the tenth one I've owned. I have another on the way too and many spare parts.
I've always liked the sound from these and have decided to put a definitive example (or two) together!
A quick dust and a little duct tape and it'll be as good as new;) good luck
One word Geoff....
Autosol!!
walpurgis
12-10-2015, 17:48
One word Geoff....
Autosol!!
It's going to need more than that!
The arm is only fit for the bin, as is the plinth. Not keeping them anyway. The platter has digs in the edge, corrosion pitting top and underside and even has little dings from something sharp in the machined finish that the idler wheel runs against. I have ideas for sorting that, The main bearing and idler wheel look OK. All the controls and levers seem to function. Motor looks alright, not tested yet (may do that in a minute).
How much did they pay you to take it away?
walpurgis
15-10-2015, 08:36
Bloody typical! I order a pair of speaker drive units from America and they get all the way to the UK and the nearest delivery depot, only to be delivered to the wrong address. Now I haven't a clue where they are. I've just sent a message to the US seller. Possibly they can get the delivery found (slim chance). Don't suppose I'll hear anything until tomorrow.
I specifically needed these units for a project.
http://i60.tinypic.com/2eyct3q.jpg
Tiny 3" full range drivers with an unusual 12 ohm rating.
walpurgis
15-10-2015, 16:48
A bit of luck. The parcel was at the local sorting office awaiting a customs payment. Mystified as to why it was shown as delivered though. :scratch:
The speakers are very nice indeed. Should be perfect for my scheme.
southall-1998
15-10-2015, 16:53
Nice one, Geoff.
S.
A bit of luck. The parcel was at the local sorting office awaiting a customs payment. Mystified as to why it was shown as delivered though. :scratch:
The speakers are very nice indeed. Should be perfect for my scheme.
If it was through Ebay international then it just means its been delivered to their international destination(IE EBAY) had the same myself :doh: though same as you
walpurgis
15-10-2015, 18:25
Nice one, Geoff.
S.
Yeah. They're the ones I mentioned the other day Shane. Watch this space! ;)
walpurgis
16-10-2015, 19:17
Things have just taken a funny turn. I've been very naughty and bought this Decca Mk.III elliptical.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301770116653?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Spur of the moment purchase. I'd been considering another Mk.IV for a while and spotted the Mk.III newly listed today. The 'ED' written on it stands for elliptical diamond. Should sound stunning.
Anybody got an FFSS SME headshell mounting adaptor or FFSS arm going at a sensible price?
YOu have indeed :eyebrows: ah well you might as well have a second childhood:eek:
southall-1998
16-10-2015, 20:25
Hi-Fi is a very selfish hobby, and I love it :D
S,
Ali Tait
16-10-2015, 21:21
Yeah, man maths roolz! :-)
walpurgis
16-10-2015, 21:40
Now the bad news. Just unpacked a box that arrived today. Yes, it's another GL75 turntable. I warned the seller that they have a very fragile polystyrene lid that breaks easily, that should be removed and packed separately and that the platter should also be taken off, wrapped and placed under the plinth for transit. He obviously thought different. It has a busted lid, the platter is still attached, which luckily has not caused damage, but the bias weight had gone walkies. Dozy bastard. I'll be wanting some money back, maybe all of it. If he was in front of me I'd probably bust his hooter!! :steam:
Now the bad news. Just unpacked a box that arrived today. Yes, it's another GL75 turntable. I warned the seller that they have a very fragile polystyrene lid that breaks easily, that should be removed and packed separately and that the platter should also be taken off, wrapped and placed under the plinth for transit. He obviously thought different. It has a busted lid, the platter is still attached, which luckily has not caused damage, but the bias weight had gone walkies. Dozy bastard. I'll be wanting some money back, maybe all of it. If he was in front of me I'd probably bust his hooter!! :steam:
Thats a sin Mate... I know where you are as I got a lenco once and the guy did the same thing. he left the counter weight on and the whole back if the arm snapped off. I did repair it with a clever repair but it is damned annoying that folk cant do simple precautions to ensure a TT has a fair chance of survival
walpurgis
16-10-2015, 22:29
Now the git is squirming after I told him of the problem. Says I have to take it up with the courier. Bollocks to him. I've told him if he doesn't cover the cost of replacement parts, it goes back and I'll want the cost of carriage both ways on top of the purchase cost. Cheeky bleeder, it's his fuck up!!
Contract with courier is with him...guilty as charged ;) they will tell him it was badly packed...dont think they cover TT's as a rule anyways
walpurgis
16-10-2015, 22:43
If he continues arguing, I'll threaten to reverse the PayPal payment (which I can probably do), tell him I can claim carriage costs through the small claims court and tell him he'll have to arrange collection. He won't be happy!
Carriage should be in the paypal bill anyways. What was his rating?
walpurgis
16-10-2015, 22:54
Carriage should be in the paypal bill anyways. What was his rating?
The carriage to here will be included, but the return, not. His rating is 100% from 85 transactions. It won't stay that way if he keeps this up! Seller is 'bowles7184'.
He similar schennanigans with the EBay seller I got my Densen Pre from...feel your pain Geoff.
Amp delivered with one of the big knobs broken off, seller did everything to make it my problem, I should take it up with Courier etc. It was obvious that the amp was packed damaged.
Rather than give myself the grief, I tried to work with the guy initially until it became obvious he was taking the piss.
I Asked for him to pay cost of repair....No, He wanted me to chase up the courier for compensation.
He got arsey of course, and wanted me to take photographs of the box so he could claim back from the Courier BEFORE He stumped up for repair cost...
The box, however, was perfect and he asked me to mess it up a bit for the photographs!
Refused of course, estimated repair costs and eventually got him to stump up for them, but only because I said I'd reverse PayPal charge if we couldn't get it sorted.
He was on to plumbs getting anything from Courier and he covered the cost of my amp repair (and shipping to Denmark for my trouble), which was a fair outcome and justice was served. :)
Some folk mistake civility for stupidity and sometimes you get landed with these muppets Geoff.
This is why I never PayPal Gift unless it's with someone I know and is discussed previously, you've no buyer protection.
Good luck with it mate, stick to your guns and don't give the bugger any ammunition.
walpurgis
17-10-2015, 13:56
Seems I now own four Lenco turntables, in various states of assembly and cosmetics, as I just bought a pretty manky GL68 for £11.50. It has decent control levers and armrest and the motor could be OK with a clean up. I think I can rescue the idler too.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361403812903?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Not heard back from the guy about the broken GL75 yet.
You cornering the market on these lol
walpurgis
17-10-2015, 14:09
You cornering the market on these lol
To an extent :).
I'm tempted to stock up a bit if something decent comes along cheaply. Prices are escalating steadily for whole TTs and bits. They'll be fetching double next year, wait and see. Could be a decent margin in it. Lencos are getting a bigger following in the last year or so. Deservedly so too. They're dead easy to maintain and modify and they sound absolutely first rate. Amongst the best sounding turntables ever made. Dead reliable too.
Daft really, I sold a GL75 minter for £28 about four years ago, that's what they were fetching! Not any more. I reckon you'll see good GL75/78s reaching £400 soon.
walpurgis
21-10-2015, 16:50
Now the bad news. Just unpacked a box that arrived today. Yes, it's another GL75 turntable. I warned the seller that they have a very fragile polystyrene lid that breaks easily, that should be removed and packed separately and that the platter should also be taken off, wrapped and placed under the plinth for transit. He obviously thought different. It has a busted lid, the platter is still attached, which luckily has not caused damage, but the bias weight had gone walkies. Dozy bastard. I'll be wanting some money back, maybe all of it. If he was in front of me I'd probably bust his hooter!! :steam:
Finally got this resolved. I opened an eBay return claim against the seller. I knew he wouldn't want it back after seeing the photos of damage and I wanted to keep it really, as it's OK mechanically and cosmetically. After a bit of to and fro arguing he caved in and refunded £40 towards a new lid and bias weight. So sorted. Phew! :)
walpurgis
25-10-2015, 12:02
Well now. The corroded and battered GL75 now looks like this:
http://i60.tinypic.com/2j42bz4.jpg
A stripped top plate and bags of bits!
Trickiest job was removing the silver trim/name plate at the front. I now have to decide what openings to keep and which to fill in and how. I may weld the arm aperture and recut one, depending on how the intended arm aligns.
Then the whole top plate will be rubbed down for painting. I've decided to go with a cream finish and a dark walnut veneered solid base with internal damping via dried coarse sand in cavities (if there's enough room for them).
Sounds like a plan Geoff if your good are light welding....not my forte lol. Arc yes but fancy stuff nope!
Like the cream idea. Saw one done that way and it was super
walpurgis
25-10-2015, 12:15
If I get the welder out, I may add some bracing strips across the underside of the top plate where there's space. Fortunately I have another complete GL75, so I can check positioning. I may fill in open areas between the bracing with a particular glass fibre mix I've in mind. Could be that using the MIG may be best, rather than the ordinary arc welder. Don't want heat causing localised buckling.
Yes. I decided on cream 'cos I want a 'vintage' look about the completed TT. Already bought the enamel & lacquer. I may even finish the platter the same.
Cream platter and black rubber looks great...id deffo use a mig or tig welder.. The arc may as yoy say buckle it...might even blow holes in it depending. Never got enough shots of wire welders to get the technique right but was handy with the arc. It will look great i think when finished
walpurgis
25-10-2015, 12:30
I'm certainly not the world's greatest welder, but usually manage a passable end result. Last job I did was patching the sill in my old VW Golf a couple of years ago.
Just remembered. I was considering putting some extra support at and around the main bearing mounting hole. I don't want to affect the fixing height, so maybe a large washer welded on the top of the plate and longer fixing bolts. It'll have to clear the bottom of the platter, could be tricky with a GL78 platter (I also have) which has the extended bronze bearing . I believe a few owners have done similar. I'll investigate.
walpurgis
31-10-2015, 17:04
I had a change of plan. The apertures for the GL75 top plate won't be welded up. I'm cutting brass inserts and soldering them in. Lower temperatures, so less likelihood of buckling. Plenty strong enough too.
I found some brass plate exactly the right thickness. Here's the armhole insert cut out and dropped in place:
http://i66.tinypic.com/wmkwb4.jpg
Here it is along with the armlift hole blanks cut and soldered in.
http://i67.tinypic.com/2qsnq1k.jpg
Seems to be working out as planned. I'll plug the armlifter lever and armrest holes tomorrow. Then it's just a surface fill and smooth, followed by the new arm mount cut out. Must get that positioned exactly. It'll be an SME mount type opening.
Nicely done mate.... Trickier job than it looks to do right
brian2957
31-10-2015, 18:00
That's very nice work Geoff . As grant says , trickier than it looks .
walpurgis
31-10-2015, 18:04
It'll look better when I've done the rest and cleaned it all up.
walpurgis
01-11-2015, 13:14
Just finished plugging the top plate holes and cleaned it a bit.
http://i64.tinypic.com/zuqmua.jpg
I'll work out the arm mounting position later and mark and cut the hole.
Yes. The on/off switch bush has deliberately been left in place. 'Cos they're a bugger to refit and get tight again once removed.
walpurgis
01-11-2015, 23:08
Sussed out the arm positioning. Two arcs describing the distance from platter centre to arm pillar centre. One for FFSS and one for 774. both arms will use SME type bases (I'll make one for the FFSS). I've elongated the arm opening that would normally be used for the 774 as the FFSS is slightly shorter and will mount further forward. The position is the only one that allows both arms to be used using SME mount four bolt spacing and positioning and not have edges of the base plate overlapping the TT top plate. The arm counterweights may overlap the TT top plate a bit. Not worried about that. The plinth will be built to accomodate it.
http://i66.tinypic.com/4jxdvm.jpg
I see. a straight line between the 2 being the slide down/up of the plate for the 2 arms.. neat.:)
walpurgis
03-11-2015, 18:23
Getting there. Arm mount hole now cut and 2mm pilot holes drilled at base plate mounting positions. These will be enlarged for tapping with threads once I've established which bolt size will suit best. Surface irregularities filled with metallic epoxy, prior to rubbing down. Will do a bit more prep before priming.
http://i67.tinypic.com/152fa55.jpg
Bit more tomorrow. If it rains that may scupper painting though.
Still got to remember how to reassemble the bugger yet (should be OK). :D
Lots of components to clean up!
Certainly coming on .youve been busy
brian2957
03-11-2015, 18:29
Are you painting this yourself Geoff . If you are what primer and top coats are you using . Very neat work so far BTW :)
walpurgis
03-11-2015, 18:37
Are you painting this yourself Geoff . If you are what primer and top coats are you using . Very neat work so far BTW :)
Yes. I'll be doing everything myself. I'll be using a white car body etch primer first. If that comes up OK I'll go over it with a couple of coats of the cream acrylic enamel I've chosen, then acrylic lacquer. If I can radius the bevel edge on the platter successfully (should be OK. I have a plan), that will get the same treatment.
I toyed with the thought of powder coating, but it's not going to get knocked about, so that's probably overkill. After all the original finish was only one coat of thin enamel.
walpurgis
03-11-2015, 18:48
Better edited picture:
http://i65.tinypic.com/11j56wo.jpg
The Black Adder
03-11-2015, 18:51
Very nicely done, Geoff... it should.. er.. will look absolutely spot on. can't wait to see it painted up.
walpurgis
03-11-2015, 19:10
Very nicely done, Geoff... it should.. er.. will look absolutely spot on. can't wait to see it painted up.
Of course it will Jo. I'm doing it! :eek:
Wait till you see the plinth (all just in my head at the moment). :D
I should add, that the platter I'm going to alter (butcher?), by radiusing the bevel is a rough spare example with dings around the outer edge so it looks crap anyway.
brian2957
03-11-2015, 19:24
Yes. I'll be doing everything myself. I'll be using a white car body etch primer first. If that comes up OK I'll go over it with a couple of coats of the cream acrylic enamel I've chosen, then acrylic lacquer. If I can radius the bevel edge on the platter successfully (should be OK. I have a plan), that will get the same treatment.
I toyed with the thought of powder coating, but it's not going to get knocked about, so that's probably overkill. After all the original finish was only one coat of thin enamel.
Sounds like a plan Geoff . I look forward to seeing where you're going with this and of course , the finished article.
southall-1998
03-11-2015, 20:09
Geoff, you should start up a business restoring turntables! With that good skill you'll make good money!!
S.
walpurgis
03-11-2015, 20:33
Geoff, you should start up a business restoring turntables! With that good skill you'll make good money!!
S.
I have actually rebuilt, re-armed, replinthed and refurbished quite a few turntables Shane. I now have about 4 1/2 Lencos in various states of assembly, so I'll be turning out more than one. Toying with using a GL68 as an RCM.
walpurgis
04-11-2015, 12:25
GL75 top plate. 1st coat. My white etch primer seems to have taken a walk, so I used a handy can of grey auto primer. Came up OK. Given it a quick flat and will address any irregularities before another coat.
http://i66.tinypic.com/280mivc.jpg
Yes. That is a dog hair by the on/off switch position. :)
GL75 top plate. 1st coat. My white etch primer seems to have taken a walk, so I used a handy can of grey auto primer. Came up OK. Given it a quick flat and will address any irregularities before another coat.
http://i66.tinypic.com/280mivc.jpg
Yes. That is a dog hair by the on/off switch position. :)
Least its not curly;) looks very good. All blemishes just disappear under a spray can. Its wet n foggy here so you must have better weather at your end of country
walpurgis
04-11-2015, 12:42
Its wet n foggy here so you must have better weather at your end of country
Dull & damp mate! Did it in the garage/workshop.
Need to get the paintwork done soon. If it gets colder, it'll provoke surface bloom on the finish and I can't do it indoors 'cos of the pong. :)
southall-1998
04-11-2015, 14:43
Geoff, please come and pimp my deck :D
S.
brian2957
04-11-2015, 14:54
Looking good Geoff , are you planning to sell any of these refurbished decks ?
walpurgis
04-11-2015, 15:57
Looking good Geoff , are you planning to sell any of these refurbished decks ?
I could end up with a spare or two. I've enough bits.
walpurgis
04-11-2015, 16:24
1st layer of cream top coat. Bit annoyed. Got a nozzle 'spit' that'll need rubbing down (bloody aerosols). Early days yet!
Like the colour though. Platter will hopefully be the same, should go nice against a dark wood plinth. :)
http://i63.tinypic.com/21etcw3.jpg
In case you're wondering. That's a split pin with half a rubber grommet sticking out of the switch hole. Just for masking the top of the bush.
Spit a ove the switch hole thought it was anther dog hair...yes a nice colour. Always prefer a creamy magnolia colour to just white..blends with the surround much better
brian2957
04-11-2015, 16:33
Excellent Geoff , love the colour too :)
walpurgis
04-11-2015, 17:19
Just as an aside to the turntable project. These arrived the other day. A pair of little Balanced Mode Radiator type drive units.
http://i64.tinypic.com/ok9113.jpg
As you can see they are pretty small. Quoted as being full range drivers. I just happen to have a pair of spare small cabinets the right sort of size and a pair of mini ABRs that will match them. Could be fun!
A better use might be as the mid-rangers in a 3 way ?
Just as an aside to the turntable project. These arrived the other day. A pair of little Balanced Mode Radiator type drive units.
http://i64.tinypic.com/ok9113.jpg
As you can see they are pretty small. Quoted as being full range drivers. I just happen to have a pair of spare small cabinets the right sort of size and a pair of mini ABRs that will match them. Could be fun!
I was looking at BMR's last year. Where did you get them and how much were they?
walpurgis
05-11-2015, 09:51
I was looking at BMR's last year. Where did you get them and how much were they?
Spotted them on eBay Rob. Just under a tenner the pair, delivered!
I bought the last pair on offer. They have one left, but if you sent them a message, they might rustle another up. These are new units scavenged from unused speakers, so they may have more knocking about.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381435967484?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
walpurgis
05-11-2015, 09:52
A better use might be as the mid-rangers in a 3 way ?
These are used as tweeters in some speaker systems, apparently very successfully.
Thanks Geoff. Showing as 0 available now. Maybe find some elsewhere.
walpurgis
05-11-2015, 15:27
GL75 phase one complete. Top plate sprayed and lacquered.
http://i67.tinypic.com/106niuv.jpg
Next. Clean and service all the component parts for the refit!
walpurgis
05-11-2015, 16:18
Pondering on the plinth finish. Choice of veneer against the cream turntable metalwork.
Dark Walnut:
http://i63.tinypic.com/35bv7za.jpg
Or Indian rosewood:
http://i65.tinypic.com/fxqsnd.jpg
Bear in mind, most of my equipment is dark (black) and I want a contrast against the cream paintwork.
Walnut would be best i think. Cream goes with it very well
walpurgis
05-11-2015, 16:29
Walnut would be best i think. Cream goes with it very well
I think you may be right Grant. Dark Walnut has that 'black coffee' tone to it that should compliment the cream.
I think I'll go with that, much as I like Rosewood, which is more expensive anyway.
walpurgis
05-11-2015, 23:55
We've gone from this:
http://i64.tinypic.com/2vhvx4i.jpg
To this:
http://i68.tinypic.com/34qaf6v.jpg
The blue streak is a reflection, by the way.
The underside of the platter had corrosion patches and a couple rather odd small dings that looked a bit like knife marks. Anyway, I gave the worst a rub down with fine wet & dry paper, then cleaned out any pitting and the dings with a fine brush and thinners and filled them with a fine smear of epoxy filler. Then I put the platter upside down on another GL75 and poured a bit of soapy water in, then used fine wet & dry for ages across the idler bearing surface. Now, despite some slightly discoloured marks, it is as even as new and smooth as silk. Should do the job!
Radiusing the platter edge tomorrow, I have ideas about going about this. Should be fun.
brian2957
06-11-2015, 07:46
Looking good Geoff . Can you tell me which epoxy filler you used ? It's always handy to know which product to use for each application . If it's cheap enough I'll buy some for future jobs .
walpurgis
06-11-2015, 12:42
One GL75 platter with bevel edge radiused. I put it on top of another GL75 turntable (surprising how much torque these things have) and used an angle grinder, then a belt sander (both very gently), taking off the same amount of metal all round. Sanded the rough surface with wet & dry paper and then skimmed the new radius with epoxy filler. This will be wet smoothed later. It may sound like butchery, but remember, this was a battered and corroded platter (see all the scratches and scores on top) and is going to be painted! It'll look fine. :)
http://i68.tinypic.com/30m3987.jpg
Tricky thing to do. The metal can just drop off in chunks if unlucky. Sounds like youve managed well
walpurgis
06-11-2015, 16:53
GL75 platter. The epoxy filler around the newly created edge radius was rubbed down along with the whole of the tatty looking platter top and then the edge was checked for concentricity all round.
Then a coat of grey primer:
http://i68.tinypic.com/2qu22s3.jpg
Another quick flat down followed with a coat of cream acrylic enamel:
http://i67.tinypic.com/8x4hzp.jpg
The gloss has (as always) highlighted a couple of very minor irregularities in the finish and a hair seems to have been picked up. Not to worry. It's only the first coat and will be flatted once properly dry and another coat applied before lacquering.
Should look nice against the cream top plate.
http://i65.tinypic.com/2d9ps1v.jpg
Yes, they are the same colour. It's just lighting variations that make it look different.
walpurgis
06-11-2015, 17:10
Here they are tried together:
http://i63.tinypic.com/2z7o9k7.jpg
walpurgis
06-11-2015, 19:01
Looking good Geoff . Can you tell me which epoxy filler you used ? It's always handy to know which product to use for each application . If it's cheap enough I'll buy some for future jobs .
It's this stuff Brian:
http://i68.tinypic.com/2lu47j7.jpg
Probably overkill. I reckon any epoxy filler would be OK.
brian2957
06-11-2015, 21:57
Thanks Geoff , I like ''overkill'':lol:
This project is starting to take shape very nicely . Excellent work sir :)
walpurgis
07-11-2015, 19:18
At last. Finished GL75 platter. Two more coats of colour and a clear lacquer finish.
http://i65.tinypic.com/289esth.jpg
It'll be left to harden for a few days.
Looks fine Geoff. Nice job. Looking forward to the plinth.
walpurgis
07-11-2015, 21:54
Looks fine Geoff. Nice job. Looking forward to the plinth.
Clean, service and refit of mechanical TT bits next and a couple of tweaks to the arm mounting. Could take a week or so. I'll need to be very careful not to mark the new paint.
I'm toying with making a brass thrust pad for the ball under the main bearing spindle to bear against. Many Lenco main bearings seem to lose the polythene end caps and end up leaking lubricant. I've found a batch of caps that fit better than the originals. Might pass a few on if there's interest.
The plinth design is in my head at the moment. I've got it worked out though. I'll have to make up a template for necessary cut-outs. I dare say there are templates online, but if I do it myself, I'll know it's right.
walpurgis
08-11-2015, 12:50
One filthy GL75 motor:
http://i68.tinypic.com/aw3lhs.jpg
One clean GL75 motor.
http://i63.tinypic.com/adiy3b.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/ips4rm.jpg
Just a the minimum of meths and a fine Scotchbrite pad and stiff art brush and job's done.
The back of the motor casing is loose, quite common, screws need securing. The tapered spindle has come up clean, but I'll give it a fine rub down in a while. Bearings seem very good and will just be relubed.
walpurgis
08-11-2015, 22:43
GL75 motor. Oily bits.
Nose bearing: Slacken end nut. Remove thrust screw & nut. Remove circlip. Shake out bearing assembly & spring. Clean, regrease, reassemble with drop of oil on spindle at bearing. Rear bearing: Unscrew terminal block. Unscrew steel cover plate and remove Nylatron plate and bearing assembly. Clean, regrease, oil spindle at bearing, grease adjuster screw tip and reassemble. Adjust end play and lock the nut.
http://i67.tinypic.com/28ssfag.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/30w1f6o.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/97sk8l.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/2h33l7c.jpg http://i65.tinypic.com/723amt.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/hrlyxe.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/2zqsbxh.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/7257qf.jpg
Completed motor. Shaft endplay is exactly right, spindle taper given fine rub down and polish. Tested, nice and quiet and running very smoothly. No more work needed! :)
http://i63.tinypic.com/2usvork.jpg
Main bearing service next.
walpurgis
09-11-2015, 16:39
GL75 main bearing. Stripped, cleaned and relubed. Quick easy job really, as long as you've got a pair of circlip pliers.
Before:
http://i63.tinypic.com/2hg4dxz.jpg
In bits:
http://i63.tinypic.com/wrm9t2.jpg
After:
http://i65.tinypic.com/9hlyzo.jpg
This bearing is in very good condition and has no slack. Even the Nylatron thrust pad shows little wear. New felt washer fitted and soaked in oil. The nylon end cap now has a zip tie around it as these are prone to leaking and coming loose and falling off.
Idler wheel assembly next.
I will get a 75 refurbed by u mate:eyebrows:
walpurgis
09-11-2015, 17:03
I will get a 75 refurbed by u mate:eyebrows:
It's taking me long enough sorting mine out. Mind you, next one'll be quicker! :D
walpurgis
09-11-2015, 22:52
A quickie. GL75 idler assembly stripped.
http://i67.tinypic.com/160wsk5.jpg
All cleaned. Given the arm a polish. The rubber bush/grommet at the slider end has been left in situ. Not a good idea to start pulling a fifty year old piece of rubber about I think. It seems perfectly serviceable and is gripping the bronze bearing bush firmly, so I've just cleaned it. The rubber idler rim was cleaned with isopropyl aolchohol/distilled water solution and then bagged to avoid contamination. The wheel bearing seems good and the two thin shim washers are OK, but I'll bung another thin washer behind the inner one to reduce end play.
Assemble and lube tomorrow.
wheel looks new. Going to be a fab deck.. are you intending making it your main one or just occasional?
walpurgis
10-11-2015, 00:06
wheel looks new. Going to be a fab deck.. are you intending making it your main one or just occasional?
I think I'm going to be using two TT's Grant. This one with a Decca arm & cart and another with the Mission 774 on for the MCs.
I think I'm going to be using two TT's Grant. This one with a Decca arm & cart and another with the Mission 774 on for the MCs.
Good idea and will save a lot of mucking about. also the 75 should be good with the decca arm
walpurgis
12-11-2015, 20:15
Yes. I've come to a halt. I have a bedroom to decorate. Back on target soon. :)
walpurgis
15-11-2015, 12:23
The GL75 saga. Top plate arm mount additional support plate.
The steel top plate is 2mm thick and will be tapped to take M3 bolts, but I felt that a bit of extra thickness of metal for the threads to grip would not hurt, so I fashioned a brass 2mm thick plate for the underside. This will also add stiffness to the area, which can't hurt. I've bonded it in place (last photo) using a very strong acrylic adhesive. It will not come loose. This stuff is stronger than any Super Glue or Epoxy adhesive I've come across. Yes. It is bare metal to bare metal bonded, roughed and degreased first. The 2mm holes through the top plate will be extended through the brass and the drilling will eventually be enlarged to 2.5mm for the 3mm tap. The gap around the edges of the brass is intentional. I intend to use rubber 'U' trim along the bottom of the top plate when it's mounted.
http://i65.tinypic.com/olhcz.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/2cyld2w.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/oa944g.jpg
Next. I'm making up the plinth top template, before starting on plinth construction.
walpurgis
16-11-2015, 23:21
GL75! Here we are. Template for plinth top cutout. Doesn't look much, but it took a few hours of checking and double checking. May need a tweak to clear the motor yet.
http://i68.tinypic.com/23uygdw.jpg
I have a brand new clear lid that is larger than the TT top plate, allowing for arm overhang at the right rear. The plinth top will be slightly larger than the dimensions the lid covers. Got to work out the layout for that lot next.
walpurgis
16-11-2015, 23:56
Aha. I was right. The front bearing housing end of the motor needed a bit of space. A bit difficult to tell without a motor installed. Done now!
http://i63.tinypic.com/10wqnhg.jpg
Pictures are not the sharpest because I've cut resolution to save upload time (and it's an old camera).
walpurgis
19-11-2015, 22:36
GL75 project largely on hold for a short while. I'm waiting for an acrylic lid to arrive before I finalise the plinth dimensions. I may make the mounting plate up for the Decca arm. Got to work out how and where to situate the armrest and arm lifter, as I don't want these directly mounted on the top plate. I'm thinking of having them on a brass extension bolted to the arm mounting plate. Ideas! Ideas! Never mind, it will all come together.
walpurgis
24-11-2015, 21:08
Oh dear. I seem to have been naughty again. Just bought another Decca Mk.III 'Elliptical'.
That's two I have now. For use in FFSS arm on the custom GL75, once it's finished.
http://i64.tinypic.com/wvb8qt.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/2a9w30g.jpg
Oh dear. I seem to have been naughty again. Just bought another Decca Mk.III 'Elliptical'.
That's two I have now. For use in FFSS arm on the custom GL75, once it's finished.
http://i64.tinypic.com/wvb8qt.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/2a9w30g.jpg
Nice one Geoff! :)
Will you be using it in a Decca ffss arm, or use an adaptor and run it in an SME arm (or similar)?
I have one and have been meaning to set it up in my Decca ffss (upgraded to Super status), however I have yet to get an arm board cut for the Thorens 124. Something to do in 2016 methinks.
walpurgis
25-11-2015, 13:05
It will be in an FFSS arm to start with Barry. I may make up a fluid damper to use it with.
I don't have the SME fitting adaptor. I'd like one but people seem to be asking silly money for them these days. I reckon it can't be too hard to make something like that. Maybe with overhang adjustment built in too.
I'm also toying with the idea of making an FFSS head mount arm wand for my Mission 774 arm. That would require extra mass on the counterweight I think.
southall-1998
25-11-2015, 13:08
I didn't know that Decca carts also swear as well :)
S.
Ali Tait
25-11-2015, 13:22
It will be in an FFSS arm to start with Barry. I may make up a fluid damper to use it with.
I don't have the SME fitting adaptor. I'd like one but people seem to be asking silly money for them these days. I reckon it can't be too hard to make something like that. Maybe with overhang adjustment built in too.
I'm also toying with the idea of making an FFSS head mount arm wand for my Mission 774 arm. That would require extra mass on the counterweight I think.
Geoff, do your Mission arms have a small counterweight that locks the large weight?
I didn't know that Decca carts also swear as well :)
S.
Haha - "ffss" stands for "Full Frequency Stereo Sound"; a Decca appellation. It replaced "ffrr" - "Full Frequency Range Recording", used before the introduction of stereo.
walpurgis
26-11-2015, 10:29
Geoff, do your Mission arms have a small counterweight that locks the large weight?
Hi Ali. I take it you mean the accessory add on weight ring that goes round the outside of the main counterweight. No, I don't have one. I'd like one though.
Ali Tait
27-11-2015, 12:47
No, haven't seen one of those. I was under the impression there was a small weight that went behind the main weight to provide fine adjustment a la Tecnoarm stylee.
No matter, I just stuck a 2p piece to the back of my weight.
I could do with another anti skate weight too, mine only came with one.
I see there are aftermarket weights available on the bay, might get one of them.
walpurgis
20-12-2015, 23:31
Now then. Back on track after a pretty long wait trying to find a suitable lid for the Lenco project. Larger examples are not so easy to find. This one will give me about 40mm clearance at the back of the GL75 base plate. That way any arm I fit will have clearance.
http://i68.tinypic.com/r9gy3a.jpg
Now I have this, I can establish the outer dimensions for the plinth, so that the lid is a presentable fit.
Next, set up the table saw in the workshop so I can cut the MDF parts I'll be needing.
I'm hoping to complete this project in the next few weeks.
If it doesnt work out you could use one of the ones Ive got. they are backless so arm size wouldnt be an issue. In the flesh they are nicer than you might think
walpurgis
21-12-2015, 00:18
Dunno. What are they like?
The one ive been using on my decks Geoff. They are better than they maybe look but dont cover everything. just platter and arm, but its a neat solution imo.
Bottom right
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151221/f0b28c1df1909855f1a3749629b521c5.jpg
Firebottle
21-12-2015, 07:07
If it doesnt work out you could use one of the ones Ive got. they are backless so arm size wouldnt be an issue. In the flesh they are nicer than you might think
Have you got a link Grant, I could do with one like that.
walpurgis
21-12-2015, 10:16
Looks interesting Grant.
My mate (who should have joined AOS years ago, if he's reading this :)) has something similar I believe on his Clearaudio Solution.
There's always this, similar to the one Grant displays:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Michell-Engineering-Unicover-Turntable-Dust-Cover-/291481105529
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acrylic-Dust-cover-Tonearm-protector-for-Thorens-TD160-165-145-166-and-others-/231783931317?hash=item35f7661db5:g:lBoAAOxy79VRfBb 7
Spectral Morn
21-12-2015, 12:30
Very impressed by your restoration Geoff :)
walpurgis
21-12-2015, 12:33
Very impressed by your restoration Geoff :)
Thanks Neil. It has a way to go yet. There have been a few delays, but I think everything is now OK to continue and finish it. I'll be getting stuck in and post some more photos in the next few days.
walpurgis
21-01-2016, 17:16
Looks like I'll have edit the current avatar. Just bought this:
http://i66.tinypic.com/25ptvrn.jpg
An ADC 550E from the late sixties!
Nice, Geoff... Is that also a high-comply, low-tracker? The cantilever looks more like it was designed to handle some proper 'man-sized' VTFs! ;)
Marco.
walpurgis
21-01-2016, 23:47
Nice, Geoff... Is that also a high-comply, low-tracker? The cantilever looks more like it was designed to handle some proper 'man-sized' VTFs! ;)
Marco.
The appearance is deceptive Marco. If I recall, the cantilever is actually only slightly thicker than the slim item on the 10E Mk.IV. I already have an ADC 220 body fitted with a 550 XE stylus that sounds incredibly good. I don't know the exact spec for this slightly older 550E, but expect the compliance to be highish, but not too silly. When it arrives I'll do a summary of my findings.
Have you tried any of the old 'brick' type ADCs? A good example can outperform many 'respectable' MCs.
walpurgis
10-05-2016, 20:50
Just bought a pair of these. Sawafuji DP-12 planar dipole speaker drive units.
Their unusual design got the better of my curiosity. What reports I can find, suggest that the sound quality is rather good.
https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.top-audio.de/speaker/chassis/sawafuji-DP-12G/sawafuji-DP-12G.htm&prev=search
http://i64.tinypic.com/2q8y35x.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/2ldq1z.jpg
They date from the eighties and are allegedly full range drivers, but I see these more as extended midrange drivers to be used with a low crossover point, say 200/300 Hz to pair them with bass drivers. Efficiency is I believe fairly low, but I have a pair of bass units that may suit these just fine, along with supertweeters to bolster the extreme top if need be.
look very interesting. never heard of them.. look like a halogen light lol... keep us posted on how they sound Geoff
walpurgis
10-05-2016, 21:27
A thought crossed my mind. They'd make a whopping great set of headphones! :lol:
Firebottle
11-05-2016, 07:00
Those look intriguing Geoff, I guess I wouldn't have been able to pass up on them either.
Interested to know how you get on with them :)
walpurgis
11-05-2016, 09:24
Those look intriguing Geoff, I guess I wouldn't have been able to pass up on them either.
Interested to know how you get on with them :)
I shall report on their potential once I get them. In my hoard, I have a nice pair of old KLH low resonance and lowish sensitivity bass drivers that may work with these. I'm thinking crossovers with gentle 6 db/oct slopes here, at say 200 Hz (might have to wind my own inductors for that). We'll see.
The appearance is deceptive Marco. If I recall, the cantilever is actually only slightly thicker than the slim item on the 10E Mk.IV. I already have an ADC 220 body fitted with a 550 XE stylus that sounds incredibly good. I don't know the exact spec for this slightly older 550E, but expect the compliance to be highish, but not too silly. When it arrives I'll do a summary of my findings.
Have you tried any of the old 'brick' type ADCs? A good example can outperform many 'respectable' MCs.
I have, and still possess 2 x ADC25 (with full compliment of stylii) and 2 x ADC 10E Mk. IV. These are keepers along with an AKG P8ES and a slew of B&O MMC designs. (Oh, and of course, a few Deccas as well.)
walpurgis
11-05-2016, 20:40
I have, and still possess 2 x ADC25 (with full compliment of stylii) and 2 x ADC 10E Mk. IV. These are keepers along with an AKG P8ES and a slew of B&O MMC designs. (Oh, and of course, a few Deccas as well.)
Never tried AKGs or B&Os, but there is something very special about the sound of a good ADC. Somebody once said it was an 'elegant' sound. I agree.
Deccas ain't half bad either! :)
Not tried an ADC. they the moving iron ones? Mike has my MC at moment to try; I wonder if he has it mounted yet ;)
Not tried an ADC. they the moving iron ones? Mike has my MC at moment to try; I wonder if he has it mounted yet ;)
Strictly speaking they are induced magnet designs, having both a fixed magnet and coil - but I suppose moving iron is as good a description as any.
(Pedant mode switched off)
walpurgis
11-05-2016, 21:11
Mike has my MC at moment to try; I wonder if he has it mounted yet ;)
You won't be getting that back then! ;)
You won't be getting that back then! ;)
lol. He might not like it. if it sells I may try and pick up another shure or an ADC for back up. Wont break my heart to get it back
Strictly speaking they are induced magnet designs, having both a fixed magnet and coil - but I suppose moving iron is as good a description as any.
(Pedant mode switched off)
:D
no worries Barry... like to learn
walpurgis
12-05-2016, 11:08
New 'toy' in the workshop. A cross vise.
http://i65.tinypic.com/ickck5.jpg
Not actually new, had it a little while, but I've now unboxed it and assembled it for use. Now I can do a bit of milling or very accurate drilling with the stand drill. I've got a small lathe, but this will definitely have its place.
walpurgis
12-05-2016, 14:21
Damn! The seller has sent a message informing me that these speaker units are defective. He's offering a full refund, but it's disappointing. I was really looking forward to trying them out.
Just bought a pair of these. Sawafuji DP-12 planar dipole speaker drive units.
Their unusual design got the better of my curiosity. What reports I can find, suggest that the sound quality is rather good.
https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.top-audio.de/speaker/chassis/sawafuji-DP-12G/sawafuji-DP-12G.htm&prev=search
http://i64.tinypic.com/2q8y35x.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/2ldq1z.jpg
They date from the eighties and are allegedly full range drivers, but I see these more as extended midrange drivers to be used with a low crossover point, say 200/300 Hz to pair them with bass drivers. Efficiency is I believe fairly low, but I have a pair of bass units that may suit these just fine, along with supertweeters to bolster the extreme top if need be.
Damn! The seller has sent a message informing me that these speaker units are defective. He's offering a full refund, but it's disappointing. I was really looking forward to trying them out.
Defective lol that's a good one. He's realised he sold them cheap and this is his way of keeping them.
You won't be getting that back then! ;)
You're not wrong there ;)
walpurgis
12-05-2016, 20:57
Defective lol that's a good one. He's realised he sold them cheap and this is his way of keeping them.
Nah. The seller's a nice old chap and I've seen the defect photos. :)
walpurgis
12-05-2016, 20:57
You're not wrong there ;)
Nice?
Nah. The seller's a nice old chap and I've seen the defect photos. :)
Ah ok. That's not so bad then. Not easy finding genuine and honest sellers these days.
Nice?
Ach it's no bad lol
I think this might just be my perfect cartridge. Can't thank Grant enough for selling it and of course your advice to convince me to try it [emoji5]
Good you like it Mike. You can never be shure;). I found it better on my Thorens tbh than on the JBE; but that may just be bunkum (buncolme county) and fading memory... I do like the shure though; it has something special that suits me sir ;)
walpurgis
17-11-2016, 21:56
High time I resurrected this thread.
Just giving my ZYX R100 H a try again. I'd forgotten how good this MC is, not used it for a year or two. Quite startling really. Every little thing is coming through and the ambience is remarkable, plenty of solid bass too.
Running it into my spare Fidelity Resaerch FRT-3 SUT and then into the MM side of the Sugden Optima phono stage (also my backup). Damn good combo. Yes, I know the Optima has an MC input, but I'm trying out the SUT.
Likely to be flogging the MC and SUT. I have too many.
walpurgis
16-02-2017, 18:06
What's going on here?
http://i68.tinypic.com/2dhbfhf.jpg
Two Connoisseur BD1 turntables. Much maligned (Hi Adam :)) little unit that actually punches way above its (modest) weight.
The one on the right is mint and perfect. Everything works and has been serviced. It looks new. The left one, I've had for years and it needs a fettle (dead easy on these). The BD1 is a surprisingly good sounding turntable if set up correctly. I've had about ten of these and know what they can do.
Here's my last one:
http://i67.tinypic.com/14ioqv4.jpg
Sold it a few years ago. I probably built this one over twenty years or more back. I actually turned out two indentical and gave one to my mate who used it for years.
There's an old thread I started a long time ago about these: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?18470-Connoisseur-BD1-turntable&highlight=Connoisseur+BD1
For anybody interested. The BD2 is similar to the BD1, but has the unfortunate SAU2 arm fitted. This is not a good tonearm, the design is inherently flawed.
Anyway. I feel a project coming on. This is going to be a rather unusual turntable setup. I'm calling it the CBD (complete bastard deck :D).
Firebottle
16-02-2017, 19:53
What's going on here?
You're seeing double Geoff, take more water with it ;)
A double platter job?:eek:
walpurgis
16-02-2017, 20:20
A double platter job?:eek:
No. :D
But it will raise a few eyebrows and I'm sure I'll get a bit of stick over my ideas. But I have a thick skin! :)
walpurgis
16-02-2017, 22:11
Thought I'd bung a couple of photos of the system on.
http://i63.tinypic.com/bjisyb.jpg
Here's the other half.
http://i67.tinypic.com/21og3k.jpg
southall-1998
16-02-2017, 22:20
Have you moved the Tannoy's closer to the rear wall?
S.
walpurgis
16-02-2017, 22:21
No. They're still in exactly the position you remember Shane.
southall-1998
16-02-2017, 22:23
I've been away from Southall too long :lol:
S.
walpurgis
16-02-2017, 22:25
There is no "too long" to be away from Southall.
walpurgis
17-02-2017, 00:01
Bugger! My SM-70 Pro power amp has died. No noises, no funny smells, mains fuse is OK. Just no light on the front, no sound and cold heat sinks. Power supply I reckon. Hope it's not the transformer. I'll open it and have a look tomorrow.
southall-1998
17-02-2017, 00:14
That's a bastard, Geoff! Is the amp still under warranty?
S.
walpurgis
17-02-2017, 00:18
That's a bastard, Geoff! Is the amp still under warranty?
S.
No. It's a good few years old now. It can be fixed though. Being a Class A type, they are actually fairly simple. If I can't suss it myself, I'll get it sorted anyway. It's too good to bin. Might give Jez a shout if need be. I trust his abilities.
southall-1998
17-02-2017, 00:22
Off course it's too good to bin!! Jez is worthy of contacting.
S.
walpurgis
17-02-2017, 10:55
Bugger! My SM-70 Pro power amp has died. No noises, no funny smells, mains fuse is OK. Just no light on the front, no sound and cold heat sinks. Power supply I reckon. Hope it's not the transformer. I'll open it and have a look tomorrow.
It's blowing mains plug fuses, so something is shorting. The 3 amp fuse in the amp is OK. I've had a look inside, can't see anything untoward or smell anything burnt. I shall have a ponder.
Looks like the valve monos will be going back into the system for the moment.
walpurgis
17-02-2017, 11:17
Bridge rec maybe
Looks like that's under the main circuit board. I'll have to unbolt the power transformer to release the base plate and see. May have a bash later, if I'm feeling brave. :)
Would expect it to be mains side fault.. smoother cap diode etc. Tx possible but less likely.. wiring ie cable short etc. Surprised panel mains fuse didnt go but maybe it is slightly higher rated
walpurgis
17-02-2017, 11:41
3w panel fuse and 3w in plug. It's been OK on those values for years.
walpurgis
17-02-2017, 23:34
Just listening to some valves for the first time in a few years. This is so different to my Class A SS amp.
http://i66.tinypic.com/mblj4o.jpg
A pair of very rare German pure Class A, EL34 monoblocks from 'Modern Classic Tubes' (don't bother Googling, you'll find next to nothing about them).
I thought it sounded SHIT! when I first tuned it on. After half an hour of warm up, things are so different!
Damn, these sound fine. Really gripping the Tannoys, some very deep tight bass here and fluid silky top and mid that tells everything.
Transparency is as good as you could ask for, the depth just goes on forever. Tannoys let you hear so deep into the acoustic it's ridiculous.
Playing 'Tales of The Inexpressible' by Shpongle by the way. Great recording and nobody else sounds like this!
it was maybe meant to be ;)
walpurgis
17-02-2017, 23:57
it was maybe meant to be ;)
No. I'll have to sort the SM-70 Pro. There's something really addictive about the sound!
I do have an SM-70 as well as the 'Pro'. Might give that a go tomorrow. It's not quite as relaxed with the Tannoys when using the TVC. I'll rig the VTL valve pre-amp up and try that with it. I recall that working well.
southall-1998
18-02-2017, 00:11
Hope that you get the SM-70 Pro sorted. It's a lovely amplifier!
S.
southall-1998
24-02-2017, 21:02
Hope you are well, Geoff.
Did you get the SM-70 Pro sorted yet?
S.
walpurgis
24-02-2017, 21:34
Hope you are well, Geoff.
Did you get the SM-70 Pro sorted yet?
S.
No mate. It'll have to wait. I've just forked out a small fortune in bills.
southall-1998
24-02-2017, 21:39
No mate. It'll have to wait. I've just forked out a small fortune in bills.
Understood, Geoff. Hope you get it sorted someday. I'm fond of that amp!
S.
walpurgis
24-02-2017, 21:41
Understood, Geoff. Hope you get it sorted someday. I'm fond of that amp!
S.
Yeah. It's a lovely amp. I've got the EL34 monos running at the moment, Makes a change. They're damn good too.
walpurgis
01-03-2017, 21:52
Bugger! My SM-70 Pro power amp has died. No noises, no funny smells, mains fuse is OK. Just no light on the front, no sound and cold heat sinks. Power supply I reckon. Hope it's not the transformer. I'll open it and have a look tomorrow.
Got the top off my SM-70 Pro.
http://i68.tinypic.com/14izo6f.png
Transformer looks fine and no funny smells. The fuses on the power input side to the two halves of the PCB are fine. The obvious suspects to me are the pair of bridge rectifiers bolted above the transformer. I checked the rectifier spec, they are 6 amp, is that on the low side for a hot running Class A job? The amp has been fine for years though. I'll bung a meter across them, if one is shorting inside, I should have the culprit. I'd replace the pair though. I suppose I should measure the transformer too. I don't know what the values should be for the primary and dual secondaries. I guess continuity would be a start.
i guess somewhere up to about 100 ohm and no leakage between the 2.
caps may need tested if you cant find anything... also the cable i suppose
Firebottle
02-03-2017, 07:08
6A sounds fine to me Geoff, as there is one per channel.
Primary of the Tx is probably 10-20 ohms, toroidal figures are pretty low. Secondaries will be a fraction of an ohm I guess.
Good luck :)
walpurgis
05-03-2017, 15:30
Wot's this 'ere then?
http://i66.tinypic.com/8vry54.jpg
Tucked under my Monarchy Audio SM-70 and next to my EL34 monos. Looks like a flippin' Quad 306. How did something like that end up in my system?
southall-1998
05-03-2017, 15:32
Interesting! How are you finding the 306, Geoff?
S.
dantheman91
05-03-2017, 15:36
Seems like we have converted geoff to a Quad fanboy....:eek: :)
I'm sure you will like the 306........
Wot's this 'ere then?
http://i66.tinypic.com/8vry54.jpg
Tucked under my Monarchy Audio SM-70 and next to my EL34 monos. Looks like a flippin' Quad 306. How did something like that end up in my system?
Messy... get that tidied lol
walpurgis
05-03-2017, 15:44
Interesting! How are you finding the 306, Geoff?
S.
Not bad at all Shane. Input sensitivity is high. I may bung a stepped attenuator passive together for use here. Got all the bits.
As you'd expect, it sounds different to the valve and SS Class A stuff. It's a pretty benign sound, no nasties whatsoever. The Tannoys seem to like it.
Nice 3D midrange, deep bass (if not quite as tight as the Monarchy, but not bad). Top is clean. I'd say it's got 95% of the lucidity I'm used to.
The sound seems to have been improving slowly as it's been in use. Plenty of punch too.
Never tried a 306 in my system before. I've heard them elsewhere sounding pleasant a few times. That's why I thought I'd give one a whirl.
Quite pleased with this actually. In sound terms, it's an absolute bargain for the money these go for.
walpurgis
05-03-2017, 15:52
Messy... get that tidied lol
Damn cheek!! :ner:
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