Thanks for the kind words Marco
I had to Google SL150 em..er..
.
Thanks for the kind words Marco
I had to Google SL150 em..er..
.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & reg mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat/Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight/Isonoe feet & boots/Ortofon RS-212D/Denon DL-103GL in Denon PCL-300 headshell with Funk Firm Houdini/Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp/Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new, by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. LDR Stereo Coffee. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Protect your HUMAN RIGHTS and REFUSE ANY *MANDATORY* VACCINE FOR COVID-19!
Also **SAY NO** to unjust 'vaccine passports' or certificates, which are totally incompatible with a FREE society!!!
Location: Yorks
Posts: 16,643
I'm Nobody.
The name plate is some sort of tin/metal, and as far as I can tell the switches are cast metal? Years ago I obviously thought the switch plate looked strange chrome too, 'cos I sprayed mine black!
Alex
Main System: Digital: HP Laptop/M2Tech Hiface/Logitech Media Server/FLAC; Marantz SA7001 KI Signature SACD Player and other digital stuff into Gatorised Beresford Caiman DAC Vinyl: Garrard 401/SME 3009 SII Improved/Sumiko HS/Nagaoka MP-30
Amplifier: Rega Brio R. Speakers: Spendor SP1. Cables: Various, mainly Mark Grant. Please see "about me" for the rest of my cr@p! Gallery
A.o.S. on Facebook - A.o.S. on Spotify - A.o.S. on Twitter
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing and be nothing Aristotle
OK, I'll have a bash!
(1) Garrard 301 was manufactured between 1954 and 1964 and build was split into roughly three groups - grey finish/grease bearing, ivory finish/grease bearing and ivory finish/oil bearing.
(2) The standard platter was smooth at the edges and the stroboscopic type was an extra cost option.
(3) The Garrard 401 was introduced in 1964 and featured improved styling, courtesy of Eric Marshall (who also did the Lab 80). The motor featured improved magnetic shielding so that it caused less hum in sensitive cartridges and the range of speed adjustment was changed from +/-2.5% to +/-3%. The stroboscopically engraved platter was also standard on the 401.
(4) Early 401s were sturdily built and had their strobe light mounted neatly under the chassis, shining on the strobe through a system of prisms/mirrors.
(5) Later 401s had the lamp placed on tiop of the chassis and the nice engraved name plate was chanegd for some plastic stick-on letters.
Basically, There were good and bad of both types, but there are likely to be more bad 401s around as they were made at a time when Garrard were slowly sinking into financial trouble and cost-cutting was creeping in. Component quality suffered and the later decks can require more work to get performing decently.
From my own experience, I have owned 4 301s (I was given the 4th yesterday!!) and all have required very little work to get spinning sweetly and quietly, even though one was in particularly bad physical state. My first 401 was a rumble-prone monster which I passed on pretty sharpish and the second isn't looking promising either, although obviously there are far more options for quietening the thing down than there were 15 years ago when I owned the last one, so this one will be saved.
In summary, I prefer the 301 from a build and technical point of view, although the 401 was definitely a bit sleeker. Good results can be had from any of them but experience suggests that, the newer they are, the more time this will take. Well worth doing, though, as a good one will wipe the floor with most modern ultra-decks, and most of the vintage ones, too!
Alex
Main System: Digital: HP Laptop/M2Tech Hiface/Logitech Media Server/FLAC; Marantz SA7001 KI Signature SACD Player and other digital stuff into Gatorised Beresford Caiman DAC Vinyl: Garrard 401/SME 3009 SII Improved/Sumiko HS/Nagaoka MP-30
Amplifier: Rega Brio R. Speakers: Spendor SP1. Cables: Various, mainly Mark Grant. Please see "about me" for the rest of my cr@p! Gallery
A.o.S. on Facebook - A.o.S. on Spotify - A.o.S. on Twitter
There is only one way to avoid criticism: do nothing, say nothing and be nothing Aristotle
Location: Yorks
Posts: 16,643
I'm Nobody.
Thanks Beobloke from a great post.
My resent purchase is early model as well with hidden strobo light and non plastic name plate.
I was so convinced about the Jelco SA-750L paired with 401, that I went and bought one yesterday, in black .
Now I just need to get the tonearm cable. Jelco's will take any 5 pin SME type cable. Would anyone had recommendation which way to look ? It needs to be RCA at the moment but in the future I am planning to go fully balanced and thennaturally I need another cable.
My Gear
Source components:
Garrard 401 in a solid birch plywood plinth / Trans-Fi Terminator T3Pro / ESCo modified Denon DL-103
Pioneer TX-9800 tuner
Amplification:
Art Audio Diavolo and Conductor, Pair of XTZ Sub Amp 1's, Nick G 'Dual Phono' phono stage
Loudspeakers:
Bastanis Mandala Atlas with 15" sealed woofers
Cables:
Analysis Plus: Big Silver Oval speaker cables and Silver Oval-in interconnects, Mark Grant DSP 2.5 Dual Screened power cables
Record cleaning
Nitty Gritty 1.5Fi MK II
Location: Suffolk, UK
Posts: 1,473
I'm Paul.
That makes sense now as my 401 has metal knobs and the logo is cast into the chassis.
As touched on the weak point of the 401 is that the mechanics have to be clean, throughly clean. If you do it yourself its a strip down, through de grease and then assembling it all on a clean white sheet of paper on a well hovered work surface and a re greasing.
~Paul~