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Thread: CS4397 dac

  1. #381
    leo's Avatar
    leo is offline Circuit Junkie & DIY Room Forum Leader
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    Going by memory those larger 100uf caps are for the op-amp decoupling, feel free to change them
    Cheers,
    Leo

  2. #382
    Join Date: Oct 2009

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    Any one manage to successfully input I2S directly to this DAC board?
    I have input the appropriate leads from an I2S output in place and (I think) configured the chip for I2S input. Nothing. I really don't know that much about this so any thoughts would be helpful. The I2S board is the one from twisted pear.
    The mistake i know i made was not to check the DAC board for operation before any mods (D'oh) and I did have to repair a bent and mis-soldered pin on the chip so maybe it is a board failure, but thought I would ask before I return the board to pre-mod configuration and see if it works at all. Thanks.

  3. #383
    Join Date: Oct 2009

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    @ leo

    Hi,

    I read your Buffalo thread and so I am interested in your statement: Does this CS4397 DAC reach your Buffalo Mod?

    Regards
    Thomas

  4. #384
    leo's Avatar
    leo is offline Circuit Junkie & DIY Room Forum Leader
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJF View Post
    @ leo

    Hi,

    I read your Buffalo thread and so I am interested in your statement: Does this CS4397 DAC reach your Buffalo Mod?

    Regards
    Thomas
    Hi Thomas,

    No,imo its not as good as the modified Buffalo but not many other diy dacs I've tried so far are either

    The CS4397 is capable of very good performance though with some work and has the advantage of being cheap
    Cheers,
    Leo

  5. #385
    Join Date: Nov 2009

    Posts: 2

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    Hi to all members:

    Anybody can help me please with this DAC Kit I´ve recently buyed at eBay.

    After some searchs and readings, I decided to do some mods and now it did not work. The blue LED light up, that indicate it´s on, but no sound out :-/

    Many thanks in advance for your help.
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  6. #386
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Surrey

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    I'm Rob.

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    You will need to read this whole thread as there are lots about problems created when modifying these boards.

    It starts around here :-

    http://www.theartofsound.net/forum/s...?t=315&page=18
    Buy Bose...And get your parking validated!.

    https://youtu.be/ZCBe7-6rw4M

    No Highs...No Lows....It Must Be Bose!

  7. #387
    Join Date: Sep 2008

    Location: Hampshire

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puffin View Post
    You will need to read this whole thread as there are lots about problems created when modifying these boards.

    It starts around here :-

    http://www.theartofsound.net/forum/s...?t=315&page=18
    Thanks for the reminder, I was trying to forget about this!

  8. #388
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Surrey

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    I'm Rob.

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    I wasn't going to "name names" but as you have identified yourself......
    Buy Bose...And get your parking validated!.

    https://youtu.be/ZCBe7-6rw4M

    No Highs...No Lows....It Must Be Bose!

  9. #389
    Join Date: Sep 2008

    Location: Hampshire

    Posts: 330

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    Quote Originally Posted by Puffin View Post
    I wasn't going to "name names" but as you have identified yourself......
    My face says it all!

  10. #390
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Foxton, CAMBS.

    Posts: 7
    I'm Barry.

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    But you did persevere and get it working..

    But Richard, I am confused with your transformer wiring though, did it come with pigeon English instructions, how is it working?
    Your primaries are out of phase with each other and so secondaries have had to be wired out of phase as well. I would have thought your "light bulb tester" would have protested?
    The norm is; L-1, N-4, link 2-3. and white-8,white-5 and black-6,7. Apologies if I have it wrong.
    As an observation, it could have been easier to bypass the output caps and the "mute chip" with links under the board. Just remove the output caps and add new ones between board and phonos.
    Barry,
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    Last edited by audio1st; 07-12-2009 at 09:28.
    Barry

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