Dented metal domes are a definite no-no as the metal is little thicker than foil and cannot be re-formed like a doped cloth. S3 600's have a vicious treble spit when new, so I'd get a new pair of modules for the tweeters.
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Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...
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I'm David.
Dented metal domes are a definite no-no as the metal is little thicker than foil and cannot be re-formed like a doped cloth. S3 600's have a vicious treble spit when new, so I'd get a new pair of modules for the tweeters.
I can't go on and I can't go back, I don't feel so matter of fact,
I tried and tried to make good sense, What's the good to try it all again?
Senior Member
Location: Scotland
Posts: 372
I'm seldomaroundnow.
Just to clarify: is the emphasis above on buying a new pair, ie. replace both speakers' domes for reasons of matching or some such; or on modules - which I'm not sure of the meaning of. Is that the same as saying "tweeter diaphragm", as Stratmangler put it? Sorry, my lack of technical knowledge letting me down here. I take it I'm basically being advised to replace the aluminium dome that I see, and not the whole tweeter assembly including drive units, right?S3 600's have a vicious treble spit when new, so I'd get a new pair of modules for the tweeters.
Simon.
Senior Member
Location: Elland
Posts: 6,922
I'm David.
What an odd pride you take in your vulgarity marco!Originally Posted by Marco
LOL! You wanna hear some of the stuff that gets discussed when I have the lads round for a sesh...
Only the truly warped and deranged need apply!
Marco.... I guess we all gotta have a hobby
CS Port TAT2 - Benz LPS - Funkfirm Houdini - DS Audio Vinyl Ionizer - CS Port C3EQ - Kondo G70 - Kondo Gakuoh II - Maxonic TW1100 MKII - Isol-8 SubStation Integra
Site Owner/Administrator
Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK
Posts: 110,474
I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.
LOL... I'm just being honest!
I have a daft big nut full of nonsense (I haven't really grown up yet), and most of my friends seem to share my warped sense of humour, or end up 'infected' by it
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Senior Member
Location: Elland
Posts: 6,922
I'm David.
Do you all stay together in a place where strange people in matching pyjamas come and give you funny tasting sweets in little plastic cups that when taken make you feel oddly calm??
CS Port TAT2 - Benz LPS - Funkfirm Houdini - DS Audio Vinyl Ionizer - CS Port C3EQ - Kondo G70 - Kondo Gakuoh II - Maxonic TW1100 MKII - Isol-8 SubStation Integra
Site Owner/Administrator
Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK
Posts: 110,474
I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.
Yesh, it's called North Wales....
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Senior Member
Location: Scotland
Posts: 372
I'm seldomaroundnow.
Crumbs, on the spur of the moment I put in a bid for an amp on eBay that had 4mins to go, and just bought myself a Creek CAS 4040 for £54. This one here. Collect it tomorrow evening.
Simon.
Senior Member
Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...
Posts: 14,540
I'm David.
4040 great and still cheap to buy on fleabay..
What I meant about tweeter "modules" is the dome and coil assembly, which fits between the magnet and front trim/fixing. This is often a lot cheaper than replacing the whole tweeter and many tweeters can be serviced this way (even the Celestion unit in my Spendors can still be serviced this way). The 600 series 3 did have a sting up top, but if it's anything like the mk1 600 unit, this will tame down as usage grows, thus my recommendation to buy a new pair of units/modules to match them up.
I can't go on and I can't go back, I don't feel so matter of fact,
I tried and tried to make good sense, What's the good to try it all again?
Senior Member
Location: Valley of the Hazels
Posts: 9,143
I'm AMusicFanNotAnAudiophile.
It should be possible to change just the domes (diaphragms). This will cost less than replacing the entire tweeter unit. This also means that you retain the mechanically run in motor section of the tweeter (no running in required).Just to clarify: is the emphasis above on buying a new pair, ie. replace both speakers' domes for reasons of matching or some such; or on modules - which I'm not sure of the meaning of. Is that the same as saying "tweeter diaphragm", as Stratmangler put it? Sorry, my lack of technical knowledge letting me down here. I take it I'm basically being advised to replace the aluminium dome that I see, and not the whole tweeter assembly including drive units, right?
Best thing to do is contact B&W and they can properly advise you.
B&W Group Ltd - UK Sales Enquiries & Technical Support
Dale Road
Worthing, West Sussex
BN11 2BH
Tel: Sales 01903 221500 / Switchboard 221800
Fax: 01903 221501
Email: uksales@bwgroup.com
Web: http://www.bowers-wilkins.co.uk
Chris
Senior Member
Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...
Posts: 14,540
I'm David.
The domes usually come ready bonded to the coils and this is fitted to a former, hence the term "module." The replacement Vifa unit as fitted to my ATC's was a triangular affair with the terminals on two of the "corners" and the dome/coil mounted within this "frame."
I can't go on and I can't go back, I don't feel so matter of fact,
I tried and tried to make good sense, What's the good to try it all again?
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