DaveK.
My System:
Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.
Location: Hailing from sunny south east London
Posts: 111
In my quest for getting better sound out of my K701s, I have reverted temporarily to 5532 in the line socket, 4562 in the HA socket.
Reponse is better across the range, but I can definitely tell I'm missing some details.
I've got a few more opamps lined up, we'll see how they go
Edit: I've popped the 4562 back into the line, I dropped the source volume and cranked up the Caiman itself. This produced a more desirable sound, but it still struggles to feed the headphones at points.
Last edited by ZebuTheOxen; 27-09-2009 at 15:54.
Tom
AKG K701, TC-7520 HPA/DAC, Yamaha RX-V396RDS, Some awful speakers
I've now tried this mod with 18K/27K/33K and I don't like it! The bass became just too 'Phat' and rounded...it lost the articulation of the standard setup and I found the midrange lost a touch of clarity. Going back to standard was a relief! Maybe its because I use a 300B PP amp that has v.good low down grunt and a clean detailed but rich mid that this mod did not work for me....maybe its also the reason I don't get on with the 2132...anyhow its fun and I await Stans new PSU with anticipation....
Listening in a Foo free Zone...
Only a Sith deals in absolutes.
Guys,
Before we get any more deeply-entrenched in our respective cultural differences, and the ensuing misunderstandings this has caused, I think we should all draw a line under this episode and move on.
John, I know you didn't mean to cause offence (this is obvious), however, you must appreciate that the word "wog", used in any context, is inappropriate in the UK and also on this forum, therefore I'm sure I can rely on your discretion not to refer to it again in future.
Anyway, don't worry, everything is fine here so I'm sure you'll be back again soon!
Ciao,
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: London, UK
Posts: 309
OK, not a sound quality mod question but one of power.
I have chosen to use a master/slave power block with the pre-amp being the master. The only unit not to auto power on is the Caiman.
Stan, or anyone, is there any way to mod the unit to auto power on ?
If so, the next step is to select the "default" input too ?
You beat me to it Peter, I was going to ask the same questions today.
It would be nice if we could make the Caiman or standard 7520 turn on automatically when power was applied and select the default input. On the subject of selecting the default input; it would be good if the mod included a switch or something to allow any of the inputs to be set as default at any time, that way if people swap from using coax to optical (for example) as their main input they wouldn't have to break out the soldering iron again to do the mod for a 2nd time.
Is this possible to achieve Stan?![]()
Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.
Anything is possible, but mods like that are personal requirements and therefore left to the specialist to implement and put a price on accordingly for the work done.
To give an idea: someone wanted two opticla inputs instead of one optical and one USB. I quoted £100 for the mod, but that was considered too high. Exactly how much does two hours of mod and testing cost? A fiver? That's less than the minimum wage limit.
Website: http://www.homehifi.co.uk
Website: http://www.beresford.me
Website: http://www.homehifi.asia
Hi Guys,
Correct me if I'm wrong but have I not read on this forum: -
1) constant on/off cycling of electronic components is not good for their longevity, and ......
2) StanDACs draw so little power and run relatively coolly that they can be left on permanently without the need to build another power station.
That being the case (if undeed it is), the need to auto-power the StanDAC disappears, doesn't it?
Cheers,
DaveK.
My System:
Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.
Location: London, UK
Posts: 309
In general I agree and I am not an eco greewash freak (it's 80% b****** IMHO) but I like having one button and I don't like leaving most electrics on when the house is empty ... just in case
If modern electronics can't cope with being turned on and off regularly then there is a real problem anyway. I can understand old fogey technology like valves, but...![]()
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 442
Apparantly, switching on and off speeds up burn in time as the capacitor's charge up then dissipate. On this basis it probably shortens the useful life span as well (I suspect).
I leave the Squeezebox and DAC on all the time but switch off my power amp and computer.
Regards
Chris