Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: East Anglia UK
Posts: 1,217
I'm Marc.
Sorry Marco, yes but I suspect I might have either misunderstood which dac you have? I couldn't see a 'hardware control' (as in an actual physical knob) on the Pidac but the manual (P19 linked previously) shows that there are 3 gain controls available for the hardware in ALSAMixer (how to access and adjust this is described in the manual) one of these (playback) equates to a 'hardware' volume control because it's adjusting the voltage gain of the converter (rather than adding of removing bits):
PCM (which is the playback volume of the software in to the interface) and
'Playback' which appears to adjust the actual voltage gain coming out of the converter (so is useful for gainstaging the input of the next item in the chain)
Given that folk are concerned about 'losing bits' by using digital volume controls the settings I've advocated seek to ensure there is no digital gain or attenuation being applied and to simply use the 'playback' control to adjust the analogue gainstaging so the output of the pi can be appropriately set for the input of the pre/power amp it's connected to.
Hope this helps.
To quote Gordon @iqaudio
"The PCM5122 (as used on the Pi-DAC) can go from -103.5db to 23db. We have limited it to +4db at 100% on Alsa but not sure what other cards will do here - that all makes it very difficult for apps like RuneAudio. "
Therefore I set mine at 95 to stop any digital distortion (clipping) from tracks that are recorded hot, what with loudness wars.
Was that done with mine too, Duncan?
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: Oakengates, Shropshire
Posts: 654
I'm Richard.
That's brilliant, thanks for that Will. I sent them an Email having read your comment and they got back to me within the hour to say that not only did they have a couple of the remanufactured boards left, but also that they're based just down the road from me, so I could go and pick one up! How's that for a result?
Well, that's my weekend sorted ;-).
Rich
Nice one, Rich. That *is* a result! Let us know how you get on
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: East Anglia UK
Posts: 1,217
I'm Marc.
That's why I linked the manual, it's all explained in plain terms there for you ;-)
For those with better maths than me there's a useful page about gain structure and reference levels here: http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-db-volt.htm which can help get you to some sensible starting points so that you can then home in with your ears on the sweet spot.
I think there is some confusion about the "hardware" word in the documentation. As far as I can see, it means there is a dedicated 32 bit chip on the IQ DAC doing volume attenuation in the digital domain. So, the "hardware" seems to refer to that chip.
But all this is irrelevant really as long as the SQ is satisfying. And I am sure you have plenty of reference points to know it is.
Top stuff Rich!
I can thoroughly recommend the IQ case, very well designed, and looks the business, my earlier photo doesn't do it justice
Mind you give the build instructions a read first...http://www.iqaudio.com/downloads/IQaudIO.pdf
It'll save time in the end, it's a question of getting the right spacers onto the main Pi board first time...
Top tip! One side of the case panels is protected by sticky back plastic...and is not 'unprinted' as some idiot might complain...err sorry about that Gordon
Apparently it's a common mistake...I think he was just being polite
P.S. I'm still waiting my HDMI to DVI adaptor to arrive (hopefully today) before I light the blue touch paper...![]()
Cheers, Will