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Thread: Marco's cleaning process with new vinyl, using an RCM

  1. #51
    Join Date: May 2014

    Location: Tasmania

    Posts: 47
    I'm Scott.

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    Quoted from a email i recieved.

    and that took about 15 hours to dry!




    and that took about 15 hours to dry!




    Vinyl is the real deal. I've always felt like, until you buy the vinyl record, you don't really own the album.

  2. #52
    Join Date: May 2013

    Location: Milton Keynes

    Posts: 388
    I'm Martin.

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    Hi Marco

    What brushes do you use as there are so many options out there to choose from?

    Thanks
    Martin

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Indeed, and of course it's important to remember that, because of that, the levels of static and dust experienced will vary depending upon the environment one inhabits

    For reference, here's the process I use for cleaning new records (bearing in mind that I use a VPI RCM):

    1) Ensure that one's hands, together with the platter mat of the VPI machine, are spotlessly clean before handling records, and also for placing the first record on the platter for cleaning. Fit the nozzle, used in the drying process, reserved specifically for cleaning new records, and prepare the VPI brush for use, also reserved solely for the same purpose. Ensure that both are spotlessly clean before beginning the cleaning process.

    Yes, to avoid the contamination of new records, I have separate brushes and nozzles for cleaning both new and used vinyl!

    2) Switch on RCM, and whilst the platter is in motion, slowly 'drizzle' the cleaning solution (which I make up myself), in small amounts, onto the surface of the record, ensuring even coverage.

    3) Switch off RCM, and in a circular motion, with the pristine clean brush, reserved solely for cleaning new records, gently 'work' the liquid into the record grooves, ensuring that the entire surface of the record is coated in the cleaning solution. Then allow it to penetrate into the grooves for about 10 seconds and loosen any dirt or mould release agent, located deep within the grooves, which may remain as a by-product of the vinyl manufacturing process.

    4) Switch RCM back on, and whilst holding the brush vertically over the record surface, press it gently into the record grooves, as the platter is in motion, and keep it there for a two or three revolutions, allowing the brush to lift up any 'crud' that shouldn't be there, and allow it to accumulate underneath the bristles.

    5) Lift the brush off of the record, and whilst the platter is still in motion, place the drying nozzle over the accumulated cleaning solution, containing the removed debris (invisible to the naked eye), switch on the vacuum cleaner and proceed to 'hoover up' all of the solution until the record is bone dry and sparkling clean. Leave the record on the platter just for a few seconds to allow it to 'air dry' before turning it over and repeating the whole cleaning process for 'Side B'.

    6) Once done, [this is where the Zerostat gun comes in], there is usually a small build of static, as a result of the felt strips, fitted to the drying nozzle, passing over the record surface and making light contact with it, during the drying process. Therefore, simply 'zap' the record surface once with the Zerostat gun, thereby discharging it from any static, lift the record off of the platter and pop it into an anti-static record sleeve.

    Job done! The record is now pristine clean, totally static-free, and ready for use. It will also stay that way for a very long time, unless mishandled

    The same process is used for cleaning second-hand records (using the dedicated brush and nozzle for that purpose), although depending on how dirty the records are, this could affect steps 3) and 4), where more effort may be required to loosen off any 'crud', in order that it is removed thoroughly.

    Marco.

  3. #53
    Join Date: Apr 2012

    Location: N E Kent

    Posts: 51,620
    I'm Geoff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ekymetal View Post
    Does this method remove static? lol
    Oh yes. It removes absolutely everything!
    It is impossible for anything digital to sound analogue, because it isn't analogue!

  4. #54
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,537
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by high.spirits View Post
    Hi Marco

    What brushes do you use as there are so many options out there to choose from?

    Thanks
    Martin
    Hi Martin,

    I've continued to use the one that came with my VPI 16.5 RCM. The bristles on it are very stiff, which during cleaning, is essential for deep penetration of the record grooves. Highly recommended! You can buy spare VPI brushes from Analogue Seduction, although unfortunately they aren't cheap.

    Hope that helps

    Marco
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  5. #55
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 7,295
    I'm James.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Hi Martin,

    I've continued to use the one that came with my VPI 16.5 RCM. The bristles on it are very stiff, which during cleaning, is essential for deep penetration of the record grooves. Highly recommended! You can buy spare VPI brushes from Analogue Seduction, although unfortunately they aren't cheap.

    Hope that helps



    Marco
    Hi Marco,I have the same VPI machine as yourself and do use the VPI brush that was supplied with it. However a tip from a friend, who also uses a VPI, suggested using a piece of draught excluder brush, the type you fix to the bottom of a door! I have the aluminium strip with brush attached. You can cut pieces to the length you require and you get quite a lot out of a strip.
    The brush I find is perfect and in fact I use it a lot more than the VPI brush. Works very well.

    SPPV extremely good if you look at the price of brushes

  6. #56
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,537
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Excellent tip, James - I like it and will look into it further

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  7. #57
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Lancaster(-ish), UK

    Posts: 16,936
    I'm ChrisB.

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    I've tried all sorts of brushes and things like brushes including paint pads and have never been satisfied. As for the draught excluder, well that's the stuff that the brush that comes with the Moth RCM is made of. I think that it's too stiff until it's been thoroughly soaked in the fluid. I was never happy with it, fearing that it may be causing damage. Bought a VPI brush to use instead.

  8. #58
    Join Date: Jan 2013

    Location: Birmingham

    Posts: 7,295
    I'm James.

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Grand Wazoo View Post
    I've tried all sorts of brushes and things like brushes including paint pads and have never been satisfied. As for the draught excluder, well that's the stuff that the brush that comes with the Moth RCM is made of. I think that it's too stiff until it's been thoroughly soaked in the fluid. I was never happy with it, fearing that it may be causing damage. Bought a VPI brush to use instead.
    The draught excluder brush I use is less stiff than the VPI brush. What is really good is the fact you can rummage round loads of DIY stores and get the exact stiffness you want.

    Mine has longer bristles than the VPI and is more flexible so it gets into the grooves better.

  9. #59
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: Lancaster(-ish), UK

    Posts: 16,936
    I'm ChrisB.

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    That's good to know.

  10. #60
    Join Date: May 2013

    Location: Milton Keynes

    Posts: 388
    I'm Martin.

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    Thanks guys very useful information.

    I will have a look at some of our local DIY stores and may buy a VPI brush for reference.

    Thanks again
    Martin

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