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Thread: Mod your Beresford 7520

  1. #981
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

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    I'm Dave.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Covenant View Post
    Sorry to use you as a guinea pig Dave but it seems you experienced the same problems as me. Before I get busy with the toe nail clippers at the week end could you report if there is any improvement when its bedded in?
    Quote Originally Posted by lingling1337 View Post
    I'd also like to know more results coming from THS4032 to LM4562 w/MLC5/6 mod. Is the 4562 more natural than the 4032? I quite like my 4032 for vinyl rips, it sounds amazing. However, it's too bright a chip for my general recording, and I think the fact that I'm using Grados (a 32ohm phone) is a factor here too.

    EDIT2: OK so LME49720NA vs LM4562NA? Looking at the free samples, want to try some out.
    No problem, I'll report back with how it's sounding after I've done a couple more days of running in.
    Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.

  2. #982
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

    Posts: 6,289

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    Can we bring back some sense to these mods? There are PCM1716, WM8716, 12V and 15V PSU folks all doing various opamps tests. The two DAC chips sound different from each other, as do the power supplies. I suggest therefore that anyone doing their tests on anything other than the standard PCM1716and 12V PSU, should mention it.

    Stan

  3. #983
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

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    I'm Dave.

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    Good point Stan. For clarification my 7520 is standard other than the opamp and MLC5/6 mod.
    Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.

  4. #984
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Posts: 44

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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveC View Post
    Does this mean what I suspect it means, based on previous posts by this 'gentleman'?? SHEEEESH!!!


    What do you think it means?

    EDIT: Removed snarky comment and other edits for genuine interest in what mr DaveC thinks I'm talking about.
    Last edited by lingling1337; 15-07-2009 at 16:02.

  5. #985
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

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    I'm Dave.

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    Quote Originally Posted by lingling1337 View Post
    EDIT: BTW, found out that the 49720 and 4562 are the exact same thing
    I've mentioned that a couple of times here already.
    Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.

  6. #986
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Sheffield, UK

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    I'm Dave.

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    Hi Stan,

    I'm thinking about swapping the standard KIA7810API regulator for a Murata 7805SR which you mentioned a while ago. I just wanted to check if this was a simple drop in replacement or if I would need to make any other modifications?

    The Murata datasheet mentions that no external capacitors are required and I notice there are a couple of caps near the existing regulator (MLC1 & EC2), so that made me wonder if anything needed changing to make the 7805SR work at it's best.

    Thanks.
    Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.

  7. #987
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Posts: 44

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    Quote Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy View Post
    Hi Stan,

    I'm thinking about swapping the standard KIA7810API regulator for a Murata 7805SR which you mentioned a while ago. I just wanted to check if this was a simple drop in replacement or if I would need to make any other modifications?

    The Murata datasheet mentions that no external capacitors are required and I notice there are a couple of caps near the existing regulator (MLC1 & EC2), so that made me wonder if anything needed changing to make the 7805SR work at it's best.

    Thanks.
    Really looking forward to this one.

  8. #988
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    leo is offline Circuit Junkie & DIY Room Forum Leader
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Notts UK

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    Quote Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy View Post
    Hi Stan,

    I'm thinking about swapping the standard KIA7810API regulator for a Murata 7805SR which you mentioned a while ago. I just wanted to check if this was a simple drop in replacement or if I would need to make any other modifications?

    The Murata datasheet mentions that no external capacitors are required and I notice there are a couple of caps near the existing regulator (MLC1 & EC2), so that made me wonder if anything needed changing to make the 7805SR work at it's best.

    Thanks.
    It maybe worth leaving the external caps, the datasheet for the 7805SR mentions using an additional cap on the output will improve load-transient response and if a low ESR type is used will improve filtering.

    The reg isn't located more than 24inch from the DC source so an additional cap on the input shouldn't be essential
    Cheers,
    Leo

  9. #989
    Join Date: Jul 2009

    Posts: 44

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    HighFidelityGuy, since I can't be bothered to pop open my DAC and find out, is the regulator a through-hole job or surface mount?

    EDIT: Just did a google, looks to be through-hole. Looking forward to Stan's thoughts on this. I'll pick up a Radial 15V power supply and a 7805SR-C if there are no additional thoughts Stan has to add.
    Last edited by lingling1337; 16-07-2009 at 03:58.

  10. #990
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

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    It would be helpful if you knew what you are considering doing, and whether you have your facts correct.

    As a guide:
    Murata Power Solutions’ 7805SR-C (5V output), 7812SR-C (12V output).

    Consult the Murata datasheet and make sure you know your 5V regulator from your 12V regulator. The 7812SR-C will not work below a 15V input level. So you would have to be in Caiman territory if you want to do this mod and spend that sort of money.

    A cheaper solution might have been the Leo mod, but I think he has put that aside due to the complexity of it and the certain electronics skill required. Any slip ups and it's good bye TC-7520.

    Stan

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