Oooh, fancy-dancy...
We want pics when it's done!
Marco.
Oooh, fancy-dancy...
We want pics when it's done!
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
Location: Arizona
Posts: 29
Now that Marco upgraded to the Time Step PSU, his KAB PSU found a new home in the US.
Dave,
I opened the box, and it's not obvious (to me at least) on what to do to get this thing converted to 120V.
Appreciate your gracious offer to give me step by step instructions. Here's a pic to guide us.
Jason
Jason
System: Technics 1210 M5G, Denon DL103R on Audio Technica AT LH-18, Jelco SA750 tonearm, Denon HA500, Audio Technica PEQ20 phono equalizer, Rotel RSX1065 receiver, Monitor Audio S8 speakers.
Hi Jason,
You may find it best to start a separate thread for this
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
I expect it's just a matter of connecting the transformer primaries in parallel instead of series.![]()
"Always carry a large flagon of whisky, in case of snake bite and, furthermore, always carry a small snake."
Kevin
Location: Arizona
Posts: 29
Thanks for your input Kevin.I'm not sure how to do what you described though.
I've started a new thread on this topic in DIY. We can pick-up our discussion there.
Jason
System: Technics 1210 M5G, Denon DL103R on Audio Technica AT LH-18, Jelco SA750 tonearm, Denon HA500, Audio Technica PEQ20 phono equalizer, Rotel RSX1065 receiver, Monitor Audio S8 speakers.
I've modified my arm mount so that the arm sits lower and I can now mount the DL103 in the LH-18 headshell without using a spacer and have the arm horizontal.
Sounds great, though I begin to hear what people mean about the shortcomings of the 103 at the top end. Cymbals, for example sound just a little 'papery' rather than 'sparkly', but it's not a major issue and I have really got round to tweaking the settings yet.
Have to say that your DIY arm mount using the original Technics surround/mount ring, looks much more "proper" than the other offerings.
Nicely done.![]()
Thanks Tony.
Further to my previous post: I'm finding - as did Jason - that there's now not quite enough clearance between the disc and the connector end of the headshell. (It's OK until a warped disc comes along). So a thin spacer is going to have to come back in.
Location: Arizona
Posts: 29
John,
In my tinkerings, I've found that my 103 and 103R both sound better (considerably) with a light wooden spacer between the LH-18 and the cartridge.
With my armplate, I can lower the Jelco arm and arm rest low enough to use the 103 on the LH-18 with correct VTA (albeit a very small clearance between the back of the headshell and the record); but when I do this, the 103 and 103R were both sounding a little off. I put the wood spacer back in and they sound great!
I don't know what to attribute it to - can't imagine it's mass as the spacer weighs less than 1g, but it makes a huge difference.
Jason
Jason
System: Technics 1210 M5G, Denon DL103R on Audio Technica AT LH-18, Jelco SA750 tonearm, Denon HA500, Audio Technica PEQ20 phono equalizer, Rotel RSX1065 receiver, Monitor Audio S8 speakers.