Hopefully a cheapish suggestion before you throw the baby out with the bathwater...
Use a lightweight Techie style headshell wit the carbon, if you're not doing this already and try for an ebony armboard, which I suspect this arm needs (Rega's too on one of these decks) - rigid but enough to offer better? hf absorption (he says, searching for possible reasons...)
I can't go on and I can't go back, I don't feel so matter of fact,
I tried and tried to make good sense, What's the good to try it all again?
Thanks Dave - ideas worth trying, certainly. Not sure the Jelly would balance out with a Tecchy shell as it's so light, being less than half the weight of the Jelco shell, but if I get time later will give it a go. The c/weight is quite close to the bearing housing as it is. Interestingly, when I had the 2M Black (what a gorgeous cartridge that is!) it sounded demonstrably better in the Technics shell vs the Sumiko HS12, using the same h/shell leads.
There's plenty of inner detail going on here, and bass is firm, but there's a hardness to vocals/ride cymbal etc which isn't easy on the ears. The presence region has been given a little too much presence - and the ProAcs aren't really shrinking violets either (very different to the Ref 8's which I really don't like). Still love the wee things though.
The Jelco clearly has a good grip on proceedings, but I'm also wondering if the brand new arm leads are bedding in. Not that I'm a true believer in such things happening, or rather drastic change coming about because of it, but it's always a possible reason. Also, the electrical qualities of the wires (capacitance etc) may be a fair bit different to the std Technics and affecting the Carbon's performance.
All possibly shots in the dark but you've got to try.
A couple of hours' listening at decent volume this morning has me with the sneaking suspicion that it is a slightly uneasy cart/arm marriage. The Carbon was, as I said a while back, an absolute cracker in the Technics arm - synergy doing its thing very nicely indeed.![]()
Richard.
Round & round bits: LP12/Cirkus/Kore/Herc II/Roksan Nima/Hana EL
Megabits: Bluesound Node 2i/TEAC UD-H01 dac
Making it louder bits: Phonostage: Dynavector P75 Amp: Cyrus 8vs/PSX-R Speakers: Royd Sintra II
Connecting it together bits i/c's: Flashback Premier. Speaker cables: Van Damme Hifi
It is - although the sound I'm hearing, whilst not the polar opposite of your description, certainly doesn't lean that way. If anything it's quite light-weight, lacking body and gravitas - bright and a tad harsh aswell.
I wouldn't rule out trying a different cable, but am very reluctant to start buying stuff to be honest. Could get expensive!![]()
Richard.
Round & round bits: LP12/Cirkus/Kore/Herc II/Roksan Nima/Hana EL
Megabits: Bluesound Node 2i/TEAC UD-H01 dac
Making it louder bits: Phonostage: Dynavector P75 Amp: Cyrus 8vs/PSX-R Speakers: Royd Sintra II
Connecting it together bits i/c's: Flashback Premier. Speaker cables: Van Damme Hifi
Location: Worthing
Posts: 75
I'm James.
Have you tried using the oil damping Richard? In all honesty it does sound like an arm/cart mismatch, worth checking the numbers if you haven't already http://www.vinylengine.com/cartridge...anceCalculator
James - I haven't yet checked if there's any damping oil in the arm, but to be honest I'm not overly sure how to do this. I put the numbers into the VE calculator earlier today and they come up at just a smidge over 12Hz so whilst at the top end, there's nothing drastically out of range.
I also see that the AT91 has a carbon cantilever - I was under the (false) impression that Rega had added this, or at least persuaded the big AT to do a run of them.
Richard.
Round & round bits: LP12/Cirkus/Kore/Herc II/Roksan Nima/Hana EL
Megabits: Bluesound Node 2i/TEAC UD-H01 dac
Making it louder bits: Phonostage: Dynavector P75 Amp: Cyrus 8vs/PSX-R Speakers: Royd Sintra II
Connecting it together bits i/c's: Flashback Premier. Speaker cables: Van Damme Hifi
Location: Worthing
Posts: 75
I'm James.
Yeah 12Hz isn't too bad.
You can check the oil bath by simply unscrewing the cap on top of the bearing housing and dipping a cotton bud or similar to check for oil. I filled mine with all the oil included then replaced the cap. I've read that how tight you have the cap effectively dials in how much damping you have, I can sort of see this working but am slightly sceptical. Nevertheless, using the oil in my case did seem to help the slightly overblown bass I was getting. Might be worth a shot?
Bland, boring and flat are the last words l would use to describre the Techie, at least with the standard arm.....................![]()
System; Michell Gyrodec SE/ Orbe Clamp/ Gert Pedersen armboard mod/ HR PSU/ SME V / J7 Tonearm cable/Ortofon Cadenza Black// Jez Arkless Turbo nutter B------ /Trichord Dino+
Amplification and loudspeaker set up is at the moment being split into two groups, comprising the following;
1. Same sources as above; SONY TAF-770ES/SONY CDP761E/Cable Talk 3.1 loudspeakercable/ Harbeth Compact7ES2/ Stands
2. Virtue Audio Sensation M451battery PSU, ClarityCaps upgrade/ Sensation M901/Russian PIO caps with Teflon bypass caps upgrade/ JT Dynamic PSU with various tweaks/ Connex Audio 5N Litz loudspeaker cable, Impulse H6 Loudspeakers.
Me so horny- Impulse H6 Horny