Diy tt v1.1

[hoopsontoast]

With the Plinth:


Full Assembly by RSdesignUK, on Flickr


Full Assembly by RSdesignUK, on Flickr


Full Assembly by RSdesignUK, on Flickr

Feet not set yet, might just use cones.

[hoopsontoast]

My idea from last night, the Mk2:


Full 2 Mk2 by RSdesignUK, on Flickr


Full 3 Mk2 by RSdesignUK, on Flickr


Full 1 Mk2 by RSdesignUK, on Flickr

With the motor mounted onto the base (motor housing and plinth a single peice) and isolated through some rubber grommits and then the sorbethane feet on the main assembly of the TT.


Full 4 Mk2 by RSdesignUK, on Flickr

[sq225917]

Honestly, you don't want the motor on the same side of the deck as the tonearm is mounted, not for vibration and certainly not for RF.

[hoopsontoast]

Cheers, It occured to me as well when I was putting the motor away last night that it acts as a big magnet!
I will move it over to the other side then

[walpurgis]

Top and bottom plates look thin to me. Not providing a very rigid support between the main TT section and arm mount. This area would also be prone to resonating. A thicker top plate at least would help, maybe with a brace to the bottom plate between the arm and TT (just my thoughts).

[nat8808]

My thoughts are, firstly that it's going to take you years to render your whole vinyl collection in a high enough resolution to make the project worthwhile! (or is there a real deck at the end of it? ) Just teasing..

Secondly, you could place the motor opposite the arm (i.e. furthest away) so that the torque via the belt acts in a line with the arm bearings ala Pink Triangle (on the late PT1s only)/ Funk Firm - see the stereophile Linn modification review for some pics.

And could you get, have cut some ali/honeycomb sheet instead of the thin steel? Would be much stiffer. Or perhaps just carbon fibre might even be more rigid?

[hoopsontoast]

The main driving force is price, so far only spent £100 and that was on the arm. I have some mdf and even some lead sheet for dampening going spare. I can get some 2-3mm sheet aluminum cut which is why I was going to use it.
I will have a look at the PT/FF turntables

The main reason for trying to do a lot of CAD work is to set the design rather than making the mistakes in real life

[nat8808]

Thinking about it again, the sheet being up against both the MDF parts means there's not much there to actually resonate, only the little bit across the gap. As long as it's well coupled to the MDF as one solid mass, it's probably not much to worry about, especially with a bit of damping too.

I was only teasing about the amount of CAD - being CAD-ignorant, it would take me probably just as long to do that as make the thing. If you're good at it, it's always a good idea and also gives you a lot of motivation seeing the end product in completion.

Here's the link to the Funk Firm Linn modifications: http://www.thefunkfirm.co.uk/turntab...2_Upgrade.html go all the way down to "And now...Groove-Scrub." for explaination and photo of their original mods. I guess their whole "motor on the subchassis" doesn't apply to a no-suspended deck (as the whole thing is effectively the subchassis and the hifi stand instead acts as both the plinth and suspension).

[nat8808]

sorry, ply not MDF..

[hoopsontoast]

Thinking about it again, the sheet being up against both the MDF parts means there's not much there to actually resonate, only the little bit across the gap. As long as it's well coupled to the MDF as one solid mass, it's probably not much to worry about, especially with a bit of damping too.

I was only teasing about the amount of CAD - being CAD-ignorant, it would take me probably just as long to do that as make the thing. If you're good at it, it's always a good idea and also gives you a lot of motivation seeing the end product in completion.

Here's the link to the Funk Firm Linn modifications: http://www.thefunkfirm.co.uk/turntab...2_Upgrade.html go all the way down to "And now...Groove-Scrub." for explaination and photo of their original mods. I guess their whole "motor on the subchassis" doesn't apply to a no-suspended deck (as the whole thing is effectively the subchassis and the hifi stand instead acts as both the plinth and suspension).

Well I would rather make the mistakes in CAD, and these models are only an evenings work so its a lot quicker for me than it is for me to make it over and over again!