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Thread: Mod your Beresford TC-7510

  1. #181
    leo's Avatar
    leo is offline Circuit Junkie & DIY Room Forum Leader
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    Location: Notts UK

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    Quote Originally Posted by leo View Post
    I don't like advising things I've not tried myself first, especially things which may require some tweaking to get best results

    Did you try mailing the guy on that other site who tried the WM8716? http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f7/wha...5/#post4234581 I don't even have a TC7510 so can't try anything out, maybe he altered the filter to be suitable too

    BTW, try and ignore the bitching etc on that site
    Bugger, just noticed the guy has been banned from that site so that links not much use, sorry

  2. #182
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: Galashiels

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    I'm inthescottishmafia.

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    Thanks Leo The craving will go,give it time.Be strong!

  3. #183
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: NE Scotland

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    I'm Jim.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leo View Post
    Bugger, just noticed the guy has been banned from that site so that links not much use, sorry
    No problem Leo, thanks anyway.
    Naim ND5 XS, nDAC, XP5 XS, 202, HC, NAPSC, 250.2, B&W 804s.
    AVR350, B&W HTM4, Gallo.
    Samsung, Oppo.

  4. #184
    leo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailer View Post
    No problem Leo, thanks anyway.

    Thing I'd do is run leads from the dac chips output and build a circuit on vero board using through hole parts which allows for easier tuning rather than fudge about with the onboard standard SMD circuit

  5. #185
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Posts: 20

    Default further mods to my dac

    Hi guys,i modded my dac today to have an LM4562 op amp and i also replaced the c5+c6 caps on the dac with some 220pF WIMA caps. Based on Stans recommendations,this should make an improvement to the sound. I already added the mod 21. Heres a few pics of my mod, was fiddly.

    Has anyone else done it too? I swear i end up having to turn up my amps louder to drive my headphones. Anyone else found that?





  6. #186
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: http://www.homehifi.co.uk

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    Try 10K for R18 and R19, instead of the 8.2K.

  7. #187
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Posts: 20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sensimilia View Post
    Try 10K for R18 and R19, instead of the 8.2K.
    Cheers, ill just have to use standard resistors soldered to the top. Will that be ok?

  8. #188
    leo's Avatar
    leo is offline Circuit Junkie & DIY Room Forum Leader
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    Don't forget to give it chance to run in, new parts can make the sound seem a bit closed in when their fresh normally opening up after things have settled down.

    Give it a few days see how it goes

  9. #189
    Join Date: Feb 2009

    Location: Tokyo (originally coastal N.C., USA)

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    Default The road so far

    Ok, here's my crazy hodgepodge of a mod. I'm still experimenting with parts but thought I would post some photos before I totally ruin it. I have no knowledge about electronics (as some of you already know) and have just been leeching ideas from the other forum members.

    The parts I got were pretty cheap. Actually most of the money I spent was on tools I needed to complete the job. But I love having tools, so this was money well spent. Probably the best thing I got was a large magnifying glass on an adjustable arm. Apart from magnifying, it really focuses the light onto the work area!

    I'll start with the most obvious ones from the photos.


    EC15-1 & -2: 4700uF/25v Nichicon Muse FW
    Ok, extreme overkill right? The kid in me took over when I saw these big gold caps and I bought them without even thinking about whether they'd fit in the case or not.  They are just being supported in air by the stiffness in the wire.

    IC1: For the moment - AD8066
    I fitted a DIP socket here so I can roll opamps without too much hassel. I know, I know, there's a SOIC-8 in there right now, but I didn't want to solder it in because there is a LME49720, OPA2134, and LT1364 waiting for their chance to shine (after I give the new parts a good run in).

    Ribbon Cable: Solid core tinned copper
    I broke the ribbon cable twice taking it apart too much and got frustrated and one night just replaced it all.

    EC3, 4, 8 & 9: 47uF/16v Nichicon Muse Fine Gold
    Not too expensive and good reputation.

    EC1: 1000uF/16v Nichicon Muse FW
    They are cheap.

    C5 & 6: 120pF/50v Polypropylene Panasonic ECG
    Jury's still out on this one. I had a WIMA 220 pF/100v here but the treble seemed a bit zingy, so I'm trying other things. YMMV.

    CC1 & 2: 220pF/50v Polypropylene (forgot the maker, anybody know from the pics?)
    I don't know what these do, I tried it for a while with CC1 & 2 removed, but the sound seemed too upfront, like the trumpet was blasting right in my face. I put these in and it seemed to move it back a bit. I have a small room and my speakers are near, so YMMV.

    EC20 & 21: 10uF/50v Nichicon Muse FW

    Power Supply: 12v/5a/60w power brick from an old laptop


    So after I get everything settled in I'm going to start rolling opamps to see which one has the best synergy with my kit. Maybe after I get my mind set I'll set the opamp properly on the surface and drill small through holes for the other caps.

    Any suggestions are most welcome.

    But for now, I'm going to enjoy the music!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by James G; 10-03-2009 at 14:52. Reason: I forgot to add the power supply!
    James

    Denon DCD-755AE (Power supply mods, used as a transport)
    PS Audio Digital Link III (Power supply mods, Audiocom Superclock 4)
    Tricorp TRV-35SE (V-Cap Teflon and Wima MKP10 caps)
    KEF IQ5 (Bennic XPP caps and Jantzen MOX resistors)
    Yamaha YST-SW225 subwoofer
    Cables: Transparent Premium Powerlink, PS Audio xStream Prelude, Mark Grant DSP 2.5, Audioquest King Kobra, Audiotrak Glass Black

  10. #190
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Posts: 20

    Default

    I have the Nichion golds and Panasonic FM's. Both worked pretty well for me.

    Are modding the caps in positions c5 + c6 at all? Edit; sorry i couldnt see the mpics before. I see you have changed them. Looks pretty neat! I know how fiddly it is!

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