Thanks LeoThe craving will go,give it time.Be strong!
Posts: 20
Hi guys,i modded my dac today to have an LM4562 op amp and i also replaced the c5+c6 caps on the dac with some 220pF WIMA caps. Based on Stans recommendations,this should make an improvement to the sound. I already added the mod 21. Heres a few pics of my mod, was fiddly.
Has anyone else done it too? I swear i end up having to turn up my amps louder to drive my headphones. Anyone else found that?
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Try 10K for R18 and R19, instead of the 8.2K.
Posts: 20
Don't forget to give it chance to run in, new parts can make the sound seem a bit closed in when their fresh normally opening up after things have settled down.
Give it a few days see how it goes![]()
Ok, here's my crazy hodgepodge of a mod. I'm still experimenting with parts but thought I would post some photos before I totally ruin it.I have no knowledge about electronics (as some of you already know) and have just been leeching ideas from the other forum members.
The parts I got were pretty cheap. Actually most of the money I spent was on tools I needed to complete the job. But I love having tools, so this was money well spent. Probably the best thing I got was a large magnifying glass on an adjustable arm. Apart from magnifying, it really focuses the light onto the work area!
I'll start with the most obvious ones from the photos.
EC15-1 & -2: 4700uF/25v Nichicon Muse FW
Ok, extreme overkill right? The kid in me took over when I saw these big gold caps and I bought them without even thinking about whether they'd fit in the case or not. They are just being supported in air by the stiffness in the wire.
IC1: For the moment - AD8066
I fitted a DIP socket here so I can roll opamps without too much hassel. I know, I know, there's a SOIC-8 in there right now, but I didn't want to solder it in because there is a LME49720, OPA2134, and LT1364 waiting for their chance to shine (after I give the new parts a good run in).
Ribbon Cable: Solid core tinned copper
I broke the ribbon cable twice taking it apart too much and got frustrated and one night just replaced it all.
EC3, 4, 8 & 9: 47uF/16v Nichicon Muse Fine Gold
Not too expensive and good reputation.
EC1: 1000uF/16v Nichicon Muse FW
They are cheap.
C5 & 6: 120pF/50v Polypropylene Panasonic ECG
Jury's still out on this one. I had a WIMA 220 pF/100v here but the treble seemed a bit zingy, so I'm trying other things. YMMV.
CC1 & 2: 220pF/50v Polypropylene (forgot the maker, anybody know from the pics?)
I don't know what these do, I tried it for a while with CC1 & 2 removed, but the sound seemed too upfront, like the trumpet was blasting right in my face. I put these in and it seemed to move it back a bit. I have a small room and my speakers are near, so YMMV.
EC20 & 21: 10uF/50v Nichicon Muse FW
Power Supply: 12v/5a/60w power brick from an old laptop
So after I get everything settled in I'm going to start rolling opamps to see which one has the best synergy with my kit. Maybe after I get my mind set I'll set the opamp properly on the surface and drill small through holes for the other caps.
Any suggestions are most welcome.
But for now, I'm going to enjoy the music!![]()
Last edited by James G; 10-03-2009 at 14:52. Reason: I forgot to add the power supply!
James
Denon DCD-755AE (Power supply mods, used as a transport)
PS Audio Digital Link III (Power supply mods, Audiocom Superclock 4)
Tricorp TRV-35SE (V-Cap Teflon and Wima MKP10 caps)
KEF IQ5 (Bennic XPP caps and Jantzen MOX resistors)
Yamaha YST-SW225 subwoofer
Cables: Transparent Premium Powerlink, PS Audio xStream Prelude, Mark Grant DSP 2.5, Audioquest King Kobra, Audiotrak Glass Black
Posts: 20
I have the Nichion golds and Panasonic FM's. Both worked pretty well for me.
Are modding the caps in positions c5 + c6 at all? Edit; sorry i couldnt see the mpics before. I see you have changed them. Looks pretty neat! I know how fiddly it is!