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Thread: Technics 1210 internal regulation mods

  1. #271
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 202
    I'm Mike.

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    Thanks Mike. My caps were underneath the rectifier, which is what I thought but wanted to make certian that these were the caps I wanted to remove. I was not able to find it in the service manual designed for USA use. Time to get back to complete soldering the tt for sub regulator use.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  2. #272
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 202
    I'm Mike.

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    Does anyone know these questions:

    1: how to wire up the turntable to make use with the power switch while using the regulators?
    2: how do you adjust the ph-sr7 for the use of additional regulators? I Had it connected to the tt without the regulators installed which outputs 21 volts. This voltage output matches that of the timestep psu voltage output.
    3: in picture tap311 - are there three connectors coming out of input 3 or 4, one going to the tt, and the other two going to the subregulators?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by CableMaker1; 27-05-2012 at 20:31.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  3. #273
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 202
    I'm Mike.

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    And how did someone get that XLR connector fitted onto the flange where the power cord was connected to? I do not have drill that can handle that size of a bit.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  4. #274
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: North Cambs UK, Earth, Sol, Orion - Cygnus arm of galaxy

    Posts: 11,165
    I'm MadeOfDeadGiantStarsThatExplodedEonsAgo.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CableMaker1 View Post
    And how did someone get that XLR connector fitted onto the flange where the power cord was connected to? I do not have drill that can handle that size of a bit.
    If you look for something like a blacksmiths drill bit on ebay you might find your prize.

    They are generally equiped with a 1/2" shank to fit the drill, but the bit can be larger.


    Failing that drill it out as large as you can & then use a reamer to open it up to the size you require
    Bests, Mark



    "We must believe in free will. We have no choice" Isaac Bashevis Singer

  5. #275
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 202
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reid Malenfant View Post
    Use a reamer to open it up to the size you require
    That's what she said.
    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  6. #276
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: North Cambs UK, Earth, Sol, Orion - Cygnus arm of galaxy

    Posts: 11,165
    I'm MadeOfDeadGiantStarsThatExplodedEonsAgo.

    Default

    Bests, Mark



    "We must believe in free will. We have no choice" Isaac Bashevis Singer

  7. #277
    Join Date: May 2011

    Location: Westchester, NY, USA

    Posts: 202
    I'm Mike.

    Default

    I just wanted to thank mike new, Paul hynes, larry durham, sme, audio technica, isonone, and technics for providing the best turntable that one could possibly have.

    Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.

    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
    Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable

  8. #278
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,783
    I'm Andrew.

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    There appears to be a whole lot of love (sorry couldn't resist the led zep pun) going on here.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE / MONO
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker





  9. #279
    Mike_New Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by CableMaker1 View Post
    Does anyone know these questions:

    1: how to wire up the turntable to make use with the power switch while using the regulators?
    2: how do you adjust the ph-sr7 for the use of additional regulators? I Had it connected to the tt without the regulators installed which outputs 21 volts. This voltage output matches that of the timestep psu voltage output.
    3: in picture tap311 - are there three connectors coming out of input 3 or 4, one going to the tt, and the other two going to the subregulators?

    Thanks.
    Hi Mike,
    It would most certainly be possible to connect up the SL power switch to control the PS but this would entail routing the mains voltage through the SL, which is what we are trying to avoid.
    On the KAB PS Kevin uses a remote switch-on, which actually provides a very low DC voltage to the power switch. He actually uses the existing mains cable, which plugs into the PS unit for this purpose.

    Between the two green terminal blocks at one end of the power regulator is an adjustable potentiometer with a screwdriver slot for adjustment.
    Turn this screw until you get 27V Remove the DC+ wire from the PCB before doing this!!!!
    There are three wires feeding out from term-4:
    a) One goes to the 21V jumper wire where you had the other wire connected
    b) The other two feed 21V to the two sub regulators

  10. #280
    Mike_New Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CableMaker1 View Post
    And how did someone get that XLR connector fitted onto the flange where the power cord was connected to? I do not have drill that can handle that size of a bit.
    You would be better off making a direct connections to the 21V module and having a connector on the PS end of the cable
    Opening up a large hole with a larger drill in a power tool into relatively thin material can be fraught with danger.
    I speak from experience!! The drill can grab and cause the workpiece to climb up the drill at an angle and destroy the work. If you are going to do this get someone to hold down the SL1200 firmly.

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