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Thread: Great time to replace stock Technics bearing!

  1. #11
    Join Date: Oct 2010

    Location: North Bucks, UK

    Posts: 561
    I'm Ron.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indus View Post
    Thanks Rob.

    There a couple of members with va bearings including Chris (? panteng) and they seem very happy with it. And Richard's reputation as an honest gentleman is without doubt.

    But it seems the mnb is something a little more special!
    David, the Mike New bearing is the ONLY ONE that is completely built from the ground up and DOES NOT USE the stock Technics' bearing as a donor housing which the others do... go to Mike N's webpage and he will give you full info. If at a later date you go for a heavier platter, such as Mike's, then his bearing is mandatory. The others have either bonded copper plate to the exisiting Tech platter or just plonked an Oyaide mat on. The two latter mentioned options do make performance better but the likes of Marco, Martin T and REXTON (Andy) have taken it to its pinnical and I'm practically there myself.

    Money, as always, plays a big part in this as I learnt upgrading my Linn Sondek LP12 over a lengthy period of time, both of these TTs allow you to take one step at a time, sit back and evaluate and to see if you want to take it further... I've reached the point where I'm going to give this alot of consideration

    Ron

  2. #12
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Weymouth

    Posts: 3,461
    I'm John.

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    Some time ago I compared the Mike New Technics bearing with the Timestep bearing and the standard bearing on my Technics SL1200. Believe me when I say that the Mike New Technics bearing absolutely blows the others away. The increase in sound quality is, without doubt, ONLY achieved, in my experience, with the Mike New bearing. I do not have any experience with any other bearings available.

    John
    Sent by me using an appendage



    SME Model 15/V tonearm, Sumiko Starling, Dynavector P75IV.

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  3. #13
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 262
    I'm david.

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    Thanks.

    I have a feeling I'm going to be £300 lighter come Monday!

    Is this something somebody with zero diy skills like me could fit?
    System:

    SL1210 > Whest PS 3.0RDT> Audio Research LS17 pre> Lyngdorf RP1 room correction> Lyngdorf sda 2175 > Monitor Audio Platinum 300 speakers

  4. #14
    MartinT Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by indus View Post
    Is this something somebody with zero diy skills like me could fit?
    Not zero, but if you're a bloke then surely you can wield tools?

  5. #15
    Join Date: Oct 2010

    Location: North Bucks, UK

    Posts: 561
    I'm Ron.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indus View Post
    Thanks.

    I have a feeling I'm going to be £300 lighter come Monday!

    Is this something somebody with zero diy skills like me could fit?
    Its not difficult,BUT DO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY (!!!!), especially the bit about trimming 18 protruding wires from underneath the PCB (printed circuit board) located near the base of the bearing as these have the potential to short circuit if they come into contact with other metal bits... this sounds worst than what I have written but armed with the appropriate cutters its as easy as trimming your toe nails

    If you are NOT going to add/fit the MN bearing base plate at this stage then there is no need to file down the THREE self tapping raised screw housings for the bearing, in fact you take the old one out, youz drop the new MN one in type procedure.

    When you order your bearing ask Mike for very clear instructions, he's an obliging bloke.

    Finally, if you can change a car tyre wheel you can do this job, just think it through first and make sure your work bench etc is clear of unrelated junk!
    Remember, that all of us who have gone before started from scratch knowhow.... go for it my son

    Ron

  6. #16
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 262
    I'm david.

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    Thanks Ron.

    When you say 18 wires need to be 'trimmed' do you mean desoldered, cut shorter and then resoldered?

    Cheers
    System:

    SL1210 > Whest PS 3.0RDT> Audio Research LS17 pre> Lyngdorf RP1 room correction> Lyngdorf sda 2175 > Monitor Audio Platinum 300 speakers

  7. #17
    MartinT Guest

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    No, just snipped shorter so that they are not proud of the circuit board.

  8. #18
    Join Date: Mar 2012

    Location: London

    Posts: 262
    I'm david.

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    Martin, this may sound really stupid but if you snip wires then these wires must have to be reconnected once they have been cut? How is that done?


    Thanks
    System:

    SL1210 > Whest PS 3.0RDT> Audio Research LS17 pre> Lyngdorf RP1 room correction> Lyngdorf sda 2175 > Monitor Audio Platinum 300 speakers

  9. #19
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: North Cambs UK, Earth, Sol, Orion - Cygnus arm of galaxy

    Posts: 11,165
    I'm MadeOfDeadGiantStarsThatExplodedEonsAgo.

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    Hi David, I think what Martin is referring to are component leads that are longer than they actually need to be. These will have been placed in the board from the top & then soldered into position, however, it sounds like these just need a slight trim to take off the excess protruding lead that may foul the baseplate

    You'll just be cutting off excess component lead that isn't needed for any purpose
    Bests, Mark



    "We must believe in free will. We have no choice" Isaac Bashevis Singer

  10. #20
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,411
    I'm Robert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indus View Post
    Martin, this may sound really stupid but if you snip wires then these wires must have to be reconnected once they have been cut? How is that done?


    Thanks
    Hi David, Everyone refers to these as wires which threw me when I received mine. Basically these are sharp I would call solder bits that just need a snip as close to the pcb they are attached to as you can thats all.

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