Martin would have one of my earlier bearings which may permit the use of the plastic cover.Originally Posted by MartinT
On the later batches of bearings, the three locating posts which locate into the coil assembly are longer in order to obtain improved rigidity and concentricity.
The plastic cover will not fit onto the coil assembly with these bearings fitted as the longer posts interfere with the tangs on the plastic cover.
Site Owner/Administrator
Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK
Posts: 110,468
I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.
Lol - not a problem, mate. I fully understand. When I get my own bearing base plate, I'll ask Anthony to fit it. He'll then be able to disconnect/be careful of the surrounding electronics, as is necessary.Marco, if you're reading this, I hope you will appreciate WHY I did not want to install your MN base plate as you will appreciate that everything has to be taken out first and I knew there was a potential prob of possible damage to your PH PSU + regsMy abilities are with mechanical rather than higher electronics of the nature that Paul, Martin and Anthony find commonplace and easy. Hope you understand mate.
It'll be fitted exactly the same way as yours, though, as your method is very thorough!
It'll be an interesting one when that happens, as with me doing the base plate mod last, I'll be able to very accurately ascertain what sonic benefits it brings
Marco.
Main System
Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.
Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.
Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.
CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.
Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.
Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.
Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.
Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.
Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.
That'll be good to know, Marco, as my base plate mod is lost behind many other mods since.It'll be an interesting one when that happens, as with me doing the base plate mod last, I'll be able to very accurately ascertain what sonic benefits it brings
Senior Member
Location: North Bucks, UK
Posts: 561
I'm Ron.
Hi Marco, if you follow the way I fixed my base plate, with instructions from Mike N, using the additional bolts (x 3), DO NOT, REPEAT do not, Araldite the base plate as you will NEVER be able to get the MN bearing out again should this be required as with the additional three bolts the are fixed upwards from the bottom of the base plate up into the flange of the MN bearing. A little bit of accurate drilling is required with the latter. Watch and learn and sweat a little mateLol - not a problem, mate. I fully understand. When I get my own bearing base plate, I'll ask Anthony to fit it. He'll then be able to disconnect/be careful of the surrounding electronics, as is necessary.
It'll be fitted exactly the same way as yours, though, as your method is very thorough!
It'll be an interesting one when that happens, as with me doing the base plate mod last, I'll be able to very accurately ascertain what sonic benefits it brings
Marco.Have a word with Mike as my feelings are that you could Araldite the base plate using the standard method three bolt fixing from above only.... I say this as you are using a much lighter platter than before?
For the time being I've settled on 10MM thick Arcomat (two 5mm bonded together) to approach the best of both worlds... sounds good. Got me eye on a Furutech Monza LP stabilzer.. fecking expensive but works good.
Cheers and are you soaked in Wales?
Ron
I bonded and bolted my base plate to the chassis, but that definitely required me to separate the 3-part chassis and get to the casting from underneath. That way, I can remove the bearing if need be.
Senior Member
Location: North Bucks, UK
Posts: 561
I'm Ron.
Martin, how is your MN bearing secured, the required three bolts from above as per standard fixture and only this plus MN's five chassis bolts? Inclusive of this, mine has an additional three opposing bolts from underneath the base plate itself, (counter sunk) to enable proper mating with the pan casting, thread screwed 4mm bolts into the MN bearing flange itself, a total of six holes, evenly spaced in the bearing flange instead of three. This was pre-assembled prior to the five bolt security to the Tech's ali cast pan. I used better flanged self locking nuts and car gasketing paste, in lieu of Araldite, to mate everything tightly, the chassis pan is not entirely flat, even after removing the illuminated factory boss thats why the MN BB really requires the five bolt fixing method IMO. The gasketing material can be broken to enable the whole assembly to come apart and to seperate bearing from base plate. Marco did post pictures, on my behalf, of what I had done... I'm bloody useless at getting a picture posted as well as housework and cooking but the wife still loves me I think?
This 'tweaking the Tech' is more interesting than space exploration, Yes ?
Ron
Yes. Bolts into threaded holes in the base plate, as opposed to the awful self-tappers in the original bearing. It seems tight enough for the purpose of holding everything rigid. I used Araldite for bonding, plus the 5 bolts.
It *is* fun but I'm happy listening to the results rather than constant tinkering. Short of a possible replacement arm cable, I'm not sure there's anywhere else to go with it now.This 'tweaking the Tech' is more interesting than space exploration, Yes ?
Trade: Wakefield Turntables
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 9,778
I'm Andrew.
Guys,
You CAN araldite the base plate into place and still get access to the MN bearing no problems. I DONT have any nuts or bolts holding my base plate in place. The main reason behing this was to keep the structural integrity and rigidity of the plinth. I have detected no negative effects to my decks sonics so far.
Andy
SS
CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10
VALVE / MONO
PRE Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker
Senior Member
Location: Westchester, NY, USA
Posts: 202
I'm Mike.
Does anyone know where C5 and C6 is on the circuit board? I cannot seem to find it.
On my circuit board - C1 is 470uF - 50V.
An additional capacitor is across D1 and the AC Pin 1. Is this cap needed? I would say no, but I wanted to get oppinions first.
My turntable is designed for USA use. 25 years old - and still kicking!!!
Last edited by CableMaker1; 25-05-2012 at 22:43.
Anyone who thinks CDs sound better needs to listen to my system. Besides, my cables sound better than yours.
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-1: MN Bearing + Baseplate + AL/CU Platter, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME V, Audio Technica AT33EV, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
Technics SL1200-MK2 SE-2: MN Bearing + Baseplate, Copper Mat, Paul Hynes SR7 Power Supply, Isonoe Feet, SME 309, Audio Technica ATOC9/MLII, CableMaker 1 Tonearm Cable
C5 and C6 are the two noise or transient bipass caps across the input to the rectifier,
just above CI. They are located hard up against the rectifier chip.
If you have an older model, these Caps may be attached below the PCB as they were
a later addition to the early versions of the Circuit.
Last edited by Mike_New; 26-05-2012 at 08:57.
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