Me and the 1210 are gunna have us some me time....

[DSJR]

Sorry if my prior post sounded a bit patronising - quick typing fingers (both of them ) and a need to impart experiences, wanted or not, dictated the result...

I used active 100's for a good few years and used them both with the AVI S2000 preamp in both versions (great high-current, low output impedance single ended output stage designed from the off to drive long signal leads). I then switched to the SCA2 and found it a very "gentlemanly" sound in comparison. The old friend who bought the speakers and preamp from me still uses them daily and recently had the preamp looked at because the phono stage started acting up - connections rather than failure I understand.

These days, there are specialised pro line stages able to drive a balanced set of cables to speakers and Krell/ARC is the LAST place on earth I'd look (overpriced and over-finished male jewellery for the well-off IMO). Something like these -

http://www.tcelectronic.com/bmc-2.asp

http://www.dv247.com/studio-equipmen...troller--52866

I believe there are other units with extra inputs should you need them.

- are really all you need and are properly priced as knowledgeable pros don't buy "foo" products - the ATC SCA2 and matching power amp were for the audiophile fraternity and not the pro market... Electronic components are very cheap (several-a-penny in some cases) and really don't need to cost the earth. Simple line circuits don't seem to need ott power supplies either

As for non-balanced connection to the ATC's, in a domestic environment with often less than 10m each interconnect, a good line buffer is all you'd need. I didn't find the Croft over happy in this mode, although it worked ok at the time and the main reason I mentioned the ML28 (if you can find one) is that when Glenn became absorbed into Eminent Audio and was unreachable for a few years, HiFi Dave looked at Levinson and found the 28 preamp (fully balanced circuit from in to out with carefully matched components) an excellent thing to use..

Cable ferrites? Unnecessary on balanced interconnects (the ATC circuits will self-limit rf in any case) but the mains leads benefitted I remember...

EDIT - The ATC preamp is earthed to the mains and I think the pin 1 on the XLR's is directly connected to the earthing (check the circuit diagram if provided). The speaker amp-packs also connect to earth via their mains leads and ATC used to put a resistor between pin 1 of the XLR (earth/screen) and ground to prevent hum loops. I found that disconnecting the earth pin1 at the speaker end, but leaving it connected at the preamp (and shorted to the return on a phono equipped preamp like the AVI I had) seemed to improve the dynamics a little. As long as the removed wire isn't cut off, it's easily soldered back.

[Wakefield Turntables]

It's been some time since i updated this thread but Ithought i'd just fetch things upto date. So far i think the only three things that I could do to update my 1210 any further are :-

1. Adding the SR7XL power supply, which will hopefully be on order this Monday
2. Bonding the internal chasis and plinth together
3. Adding some regulators that haven't been released yet

I've had the current setup and mods running for about 6 months. I intend to do 2 of the mods before the end of the year. I'll post an update of the improvements to the sonics once I have them installed.

[MartinT]

I'll be performing the multi-regulator internal mod, with feed from SR5, as soon as I receive the bits from Paul Hynes, so we'll be able to compare notes.

[Wakefield Turntables]

I'll be performing the multi-regulator internal mod, with feed from SR5, as soon as I receive the bits from Paul Hynes, so we'll be able to compare notes.

Cant wait !!

[Wakefield Turntables]

Been a while since I update this. But over the next two weeks the 1210 will have the following upgrades.

1. Paul Hynes SR27XL installed
2. New tone arm cable from Yannis

And then in the next six weeks

1. Paul Hynes internal regulator mods.

But here is a photo of what I call the uniplinth. I've bonded the sub-chasis and plinth together and stiffened up the original plinth by eliminating all unecessary holes in the plinth. I've yet to bond the MN base plate in but here's a quick pix of my resprayed plinth.

[Tarzan]

[Wakefield Turntables]

Latest update, the new modified plinth has been installed along with the V and mike new tonearm armboard. The rest of the 1210 is spread out in all its glory over the floor The baseplate and PCB should be fitted tonight if time permits.

[MartinT]

The rest of the 1210 is spread out in all its glory over the floor

I remember that scenario!

[JazzBones]

Latest update, the new modified plinth has been installed along with the V and mike new tonearm armboard. The rest of the 1210 is spread out in all its glory over the floor The baseplate and PCB should be fitted tonight if time permits.

Andrew, what did you fill the holes with on your 1210 plinth... car body mastic? Prior to sanding and spraying? Did you do the job yourself?

I'm thinking of travelling along the aforementioned route with the possible exception of replacing the on/off switch with a quality rocker switch.

Bet you'll be glad when you don't have to pull the Techy apart anymore , so much easier working on a LP12 plus Linn jig ?

Ron

[Mike_New]

Hi Ron,
I cannot remember what PS you have but if it is KAB or one of the remote switching types. Then you need not worry to change the switch, as the DC switching current/voltage of these units is very low and would not be affected by using a new higher current toggle switch.