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Thread: Technics 1210 mk2 pitch fader fix (and instructions on its removal)

  1. #81
    MartinT Guest

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    Good stuff! Want to try it?

  2. #82
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,411
    I'm Robert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinT View Post
    Good stuff! Want to try it?
    Hi Martin, Might leave well alone for a bit now that I've reversed the mod 'til someone comes up with instruction and pictures with regard to how to actually disable both the green LED AND the blue lights on the Mk5g

  3. #83
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,538
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Indeed... I'm not sure what the heck to do now!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  4. #84
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,411
    I'm Robert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Indeed... I'm not sure what the heck to do now!

    Marco.
    I hear ya Marco - Basically, Re: The MK5g all I found was that only the green LED outted as per this mod for the MK11. Sonic wise I felt the sound became slightly restrained to my ears. I cant be completely sure that this was ALL down to this mod because as previously mentioned, I'd re-visted arm and cartridge setup at the same time so wasn't sure if this was a contributory factor ie: I'd not quite found the sweetspot through final vta adjust. That said I did feel the music sounded more alive when I reversed the mod I would still like to try this mod whereby the blue lights and green LED are disabled together properly

  5. #85
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Huddersfield

    Posts: 3,358
    I'm David.

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    I posted yonks ago that dis-abling ALL lights made the sound better, but hey who am I...

  6. #86
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,411
    I'm Robert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mains Cables R Us View Post
    I posted yonks ago that dis-abling ALL lights made the sound better, but hey who am I...
    Hi Dave, I dont doubt it. Not everyone wants to lose ALL the lights though for their own reasons but do recognise that losing even some lights is gonna reduce electrical noise these things impart no matter how small, hence guys like myself and Marco would like to lose the green and the plentiful blue light show down that right hand side, which I'm sure would make a degree of 'clean up' difference

  7. #87
    MartinT Guest

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    Rob - you could always remove the base, access the pitch control PCB and desolder the LEDs or cut their legs if you don't mind a little DIY.

  8. #88
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,411
    I'm Robert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinT View Post
    Rob - you could always remove the base, access the pitch control PCB and desolder the LEDs or cut their legs if you don't mind a little DIY.
    Not sure if I wanna attempt that Martin without something to follow Also tilting the deck to unscrew / remove base not something I fancy doing unless absolutely necessary due to havin fluid damper in place, (although I could remove it). Thick oil spillage all over / inside the deck would be a nightmare

  9. #89
    MartinT Guest

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    Removing the arm is pretty well a must before turning the deck over. There are a zillion screws to undo, all different lengths, which you must place carefully so that you will replace the right ones into the right holes again.

  10. #90
    Join Date: Apr 2011

    Location: London

    Posts: 4,411
    I'm Robert.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinT View Post
    Removing the arm is pretty well a must before turning the deck over. There are a zillion screws to undo, all different lengths, which you must place carefully so that you will replace the right ones into the right holes again.
    Excatly, Went through all that when I first got the MK5g and fitted the dust cover brackets, a few squeeky bum moments for sure. Didn't need to remove the arm though - Thank God as I relied on a very large mega soft quilt and some super soft pillows strategicly placed and caressing all around my MK5g as I got to work

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