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Thread: Technics 1210 internal regulation mods

  1. #121
    MartinT Guest

    Default Internal Regulator Upgrade (Phase 3)

    Reminder: phase 2 involved splitting the motor control electronics from the motor drive and feeding each with a separate 21V supply from the Paul Hynes TDR-21 dual regulator, itself fed from an SR5-27. Phase 3 feeds a clean 5V to IC302 (4011 CMOS quad NAND gates performing clocking duties) and 9.4V to IC301 (AN6682 pitch control).

    Assuming phase 2 is already done, preparation involves removing the main PCB and bearing and performing the following mods:
    - remove D301 and R304 to isolate the 5V supply
    - cut the track leading to pin 9 of IC301 to isolate the 9.4V supply
    - solder two wires to D301 holes to provide 5V and return
    - solder wire to pin 9 of IC301 for 9.4V (underside of board)
    Now the main PCB and bearing can be carefully reassembled into the deck.

    I mounted the two mini-regulators using plastic posts as shown in the photo (9.4V top-left, 5V top-right). Both are fed 21V from the motor control (top) regulator of the TDR-21, leaving the lower motor drive 21V for that duty alone. I took the 9.4V regulator return to the main star earth (bottom left post). However, Paul advised connecting the 5V regulator return to D301 anode because this needs to be a tight loop, which is why this reg is not star earthed. Finally, the 9.4V +ve and 5V twisted +ve/return wires were soldered to the regulator outputs.

    It's a little fiddly keeping it all neat while leaving enough wire to first get the main PCB back in position and then the regulator PCBs snapped into place and I dressed the wires as best I could, taking care not to allow anything to foul the underside of the platter.

    Final testing involved switching it all on and checking that both 21V rails, 9.4V and 5V were all present. Finally, I put the platter back on and tested both speeds with a strobe disc just to ensure that all was well with the drive electronics. Everything is running perfectly and I'm listening to it now.

    Last edited by MartinT; 08-04-2013 at 22:47. Reason: Fixed link after changing photo hosting

  2. #122
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,778
    I'm Andrew.

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    you must do at least 12 hours of listening now and report back tomorrow morning with a 1000 essay on the changes you can hear.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE / MONO
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker





  3. #123
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: So Cal

    Posts: 139
    I'm Pete.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    you must do at least 12 hours of listening now and report back tomorrow morning with a 1000 essay on the changes you can hear.
    Then reverse the mods going back to phase 2, just to double check the differences you think you heard with phase 3. Then redo phase 3, and check again
    Hearing is believing

    SL-1210 Mk5 w/Mike New Platter/bearing/armboard; Hynes SR5 DIY PSU;
    Zyx Airy3X; SME V; Hashimoto HM7 SUT; CJ PR15MkII Phono w/teflon caps.

    Modwright LS36.5 Dual Mono Preamp & KWA 150 amp > Paradigm Ref 100 v.4s

  4. #124
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: So Cal

    Posts: 139
    I'm Pete.

    Default

    Martin,

    Seriously, great job milking every drop from this motor circuit.....

    BTW, what wire did you use for hooking up all the circuits?

    Cheers,
    Pete
    Hearing is believing

    SL-1210 Mk5 w/Mike New Platter/bearing/armboard; Hynes SR5 DIY PSU;
    Zyx Airy3X; SME V; Hashimoto HM7 SUT; CJ PR15MkII Phono w/teflon caps.

    Modwright LS36.5 Dual Mono Preamp & KWA 150 amp > Paradigm Ref 100 v.4s

  5. #125
    MartinT Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    you must do at least 12 hours of listening now and report back tomorrow morning with a 1000 essay on the changes you can hear.
    Actually, I only needed about one minute, the changes are that easy to hear. More later today when I get home.

  6. #126
    MartinT Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete View Post
    BTW, what wire did you use for hooking up all the circuits?
    The wire is Paul Hynes Fine Silver, the same as used for my external feed from the SR5 (different gauge). If you order the regs from Paul, I strongly advise that you also order about 0.5m of this stuff plus sleeving as it makes everything consistent and it solders easily enough using Shark 5.5% silver solder.

  7. #127
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,466
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Nice one, Martin. Look forward to finding out what you think!

    Incidentally, now that you've done the regulator mods, can the whole shebang be connected to an SR7EHD (to take advantage of that massive tranny inside it, and its other benefits), or will it only work with your SR5?

    If it's the former, then you've still got some fun to come, and goodness knows what that combination will do!!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  8. #128
    MartinT Guest

    Default

    There are two issues, Marco: different connector and different voltage. Both can be overcome by using an adapter and adjusting the voltage inside the SR7 to 27V - and remembering to adjust it back again before you connect it to your deck

  9. #129
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,466
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    So the ultimate is for you to get an SR7, and make the necessary adjustments?

    If you rate the final regulator mods (which I'm sure you do), I think that will be the route I'll go: SR7 (suitably adjusted), plus all the 'gubbins' you've just installed inside your T/T.

    That'll be a wee job for Anthony!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  10. #130
    MartinT Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    So the ultimate is for you to get an SR7, and make the necessary adjustments?
    I'm just not sure if the SR7 will have any more impact through the TDR21 or if it will once more lower the noise floor and output impedance over the SR5. Perhaps Paul could comment?

    That'll be a wee job for Anthony!
    I'm sure he'll love it

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