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Thread: Paul Hynes DC Cable for SL-1210

  1. #21
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Scotland

    Posts: 316
    I'm Paul.

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    Mark,

    You are not powering just a DC motor, but a DC motor and all its control electronics. It is well known that cables can have quite profound effects on the audible performance of signal processing electronics in sound systems. What makes you think it will not be the same for a DC motor and its control electronics?

    Paul
    Paul Hynes Design
    paulhynesdesign.com
    High Performance Power Supply upgrades
    http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16655

  2. #22
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Deleted

    Posts: 6,566
    I'm Deleted.

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    Paul, I'm sorry, I didn't make myself very clear - I was thinking with regard to my own system. I have a cable that runs between my TT power supply and the AC motor in my deck.

    I wasn't making any reference to the cable in this application. I was thinking of whether it may be of benefit in my application. In my situation there is no control circuitry, so perhaps there would be no benefit?
    Account Deleted

  3. #23
    Join Date: Oct 2008

    Location: Scotland

    Posts: 316
    I'm Paul.

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    Mark,

    I had better stand in the corner with a pointy hat on for the rest of my lunchtime. Serves me right for speed-reading. You did say an AC motor and from past experience you should hear a difference. I did a lot of work in the 1980’s and 1990’s on power supplies for AC deck motors.

    Paul
    Paul Hynes Design
    paulhynesdesign.com
    High Performance Power Supply upgrades
    http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=16655

  4. #24
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,778
    I'm Andrew.

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    Paul,

    Can PM me with a price for this :-


    "I also make an XL version of the SR7EHD power supply and this uses Teflon boards for the regulator circuitry with rolled copper foils (not electro-deposited copper), Vishay bulk foil resistors and Silmic II capacitors. This level of build quality does start getting expensive, especially with one off orders for the Teflon boards, so I only do these as custom orders for those who are not too concerned with cost."

    thanks

    Andy
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE / MONO
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker





  5. #25
    Join Date: Jan 2009

    Location: Deleted

    Posts: 6,566
    I'm Deleted.

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    Hmm.... In that case I would rather like to try one. Do you think you could PM me with cost? I would only need the cable as the connectors at both ends are quite specific - thanks.
    Account Deleted

  6. #26
    Join Date: Oct 2010

    Location: North Bucks, UK

    Posts: 561
    I'm Ron.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinT View Post
    Here's a small upgrade I performed tonight, swapping from Kimber PBJ to Paul Hynes' Fine Silver cable for connecting my external SR5-21 PSU to the motor electronics. I must admit to trying this out on Marco's say-so and strong recommendation, being pretty happy with the way my Techie sounds.

    Paul's usual impeccable workmanship means that the 0.8m cable looks good and comes complete with the necessary 4-pin XLR plug for the SR5. The cable is braided Kimber-style with a drain earth wire, making it three cores in total.



    Showing the cable installed after having removed the mat & platter and the cable restraint plate. I opted not to use the third earth (green) connection because my arm cable effectively earths the deck to my preamp and I'm happy with the very low levels of hum I achieve. Others might prefer to connect this third cable and therefore earth the deck via the power supply.

    The earth tag is connected under the PCB on the front-left post as that is where the PCB earth return tracks lie.



    Under test and the SR5-21 produces a perfect 21V DC. Final tidying involved ensuring that the cable did not rub against the underside of the platter.



    So how does it sound? Well, it shouldn't make any difference, should it? And yet I noticed a small but worthwhile improvement in smoothness - or lack of harshness if you like. This comes together with an improvement in the structural nature of the sound - tight and extended bass and pitch stability. it could be that the PH FS cable simply carries more current than the PBJ - and silver is a better conductor than copper too - but whatever the reason, I am pleased with this small upgrade which takes my Techie ever onwards in its sound quality.
    Beaut work there Martin. Your advice requested please: do the three white clips that provide the juice from the main PCB to switches etc, disconnect by pulling horizontally or lifting vertically? Don't want to bugger mine up when I get my MN base plate Thanks for your advice.

    Ron

  7. #27
    MartinT Guest

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    Hi Ron

    Pull horizontally away from the PCB. Pull them by the plug, never the wires!

    You're doing the base plate, eh? Take it very slowly, lay out all the parts and screws carefully in little piles so that you know the reverse order for assembly. I hope you don't have the chassis moulding that I had to deal with

    Two articles to help you:

    CableMaker1: http://theartofsound.net/forum/searc...archid=1243228

    Mine: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...988#post148988
    Last edited by MartinT; 29-09-2011 at 22:38.

  8. #28
    Join Date: Oct 2010

    Location: North Bucks, UK

    Posts: 561
    I'm Ron.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MartinT View Post
    Hi Ron

    Pull horizontally away from the PCB. Pull them by the plug, never the wires!

    You're doing the base plate, eh? Take it very slowly, lay out all the parts and screws carefully in little pile so that you know the reverse order for assembly. I hope you don't have the chassis moulding that I had to deal with

    Two articles to help you:

    CableMaker1: http://theartofsound.net/forum/searc...archid=1243228

    Mine: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showt...988#post148988
    Thanks Martin for the info, you're the man who has gone before, respect I thought it would be a horizontal pull off but had to make absolutely sure as sometimes these little connectors need a little bit of a tug to come loose which can indicate error. I always put dismantled screws etc in packets labled 1, 2 and so on and just reverse the order when reassembling. Must do a multimeter test on my TS HE PSU's +V and -V, it would be interesting? Did Aralditing the bolts make any diference?

    Thanks again
    Ron

  9. #29
    MartinT Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by JazzBones View Post
    Did Aralditing the bolts make any diference?
    I don't know for sure but I decided that this Techie was never going to be returned to original so I went the whole way and bonded the base plate to the chassis and tightened up the bolts once and for all. At least I know that the MN bearing could not have a more solid foundation.

  10. #30
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,778
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JazzBones View Post
    Thanks Martin for the info, you're the man who has gone before, respect I thought it would be a horizontal pull off but had to make absolutely sure as sometimes these little connectors need a little bit of a tug to come loose which can indicate error. I always put dismantled screws etc in packets labled 1, 2 and so on and just reverse the order when reassembling. Must do a multimeter test on my TS HE PSU's +V and -V, it would be interesting? Did Aralditing the bolts make any diference?

    Thanks again
    Ron

    Please could you do this test as I have a Time Step HE as well and I would really like to know how it measures up against Paul's work.
    SS
    CD Teac VRDS25X(Audiotuned) DECK 1210 Mat Crystal Audio Mods MN Base/Bearing/Platter+Ebony armboard Feet Isonoe PSU Paul Hynes SR7EHD-27XL/DCSXL Ag DC lead/3 Stage Regs/Recap PCB+No Pitch/Strobe/Light ARM SME V(Kondo Ag Rewire&Tags) MC Cadenza Black FGS CABLES Arm Yannis SPD-4 IC Yannis 222 Litz+Ag bullets Power WAR PRE ATC SCA2 SPEAKERS ATC 50ASL STANDS Atacama PHONO Sugden Masterclass PA4 SUT Ortofon ST80SE POWER PSAudio P10

    VALVE / MONO
    PRE
    Croft Epoch(Modded) AMP Sondex S100 (Modded) SPEAKERS Tannoy 15"MG+RFC Warwick cabs+ Ref XO + Batpure supertweeters DECK Garrard 301 Mat Teunto Bearings 401(Bastin) Plinth Bamboo Arms 3009/3012 PSU Eagle+Tachometer MC Ag Meister II/FGS + Ortofon SPU MONO CABLES Arm Yannis 420.5 Litz+ SpeakerPC Tripple C+WBT-0681 Ag IC Oyaide FTVS-510 AgWBT 0110Ag Phonostages Paradise(4 Box Mega-Modded) / Croft Musicmaker





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