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Thread: Garrard 401 Vs Technics 1210

  1. #11
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,460
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    I think Marco likes quite a detailed and active sound, something you "have" to listen, profuse apologies if I'm mis-representing your preferences Marco.
    No, Clive, that's quite an accurate statement. There's more to it than that, but you're not far off!

    The differences between 1210 and 401/301, though less extreme, are a bit like OTL and SE valve amps. Which is "right" is immaterial, which you prefer is your choice.
    Good analogy; and your last sentence is spot on.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  2. #12
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,460
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    The SL1210, with the KAB PSU, just stops and starts on a dime, musically speaking that is. It's very clear and clean. In a nutshell it's CD clarity with LP richness.
    I like that description, Peter - it sums things up nicely!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  3. #13
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Posts: 112

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    Not a 1210 or 401, but I'm very happy with my slate SP10 (2x 50mm layers). When people ask, I always describe it as sounding like a CD player, in the best possible way. The sound is very solid and is as Marco says not remotely cuddly. The cartridge and arm add colour (not colouration, as far as I can tell).

  4. #14
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: east yorkshire

    Posts: 527
    I'm steve.

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    At owston, marco's deck went on straight after will's slate 401/ spu combo

    I'm not sure what else changed with it.. but will's was in the lead.. smoother and more extended and musical top end,
    Will's also had a 'better' cartridge.
    he had done quite a few mods to get it singing..

    so we are not comparing eggs with eggs..
    .. and just 'my' veiw of course

    steve
    collector and DIY user of old british triode valves

    Open baffles / single ended diy px4 and px25 valve amps

  5. #15
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,460
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    Yep, Steve - agreed. I think the big difference was the cartridge and the 12" arm.

    The new Jelco arm I've fitted to the 1210 has moved its performance on considerably, and Toppsy is sending me a low-output version of the cartridge (Ortofon SL-15) Will used at Owston. If I like it, I'll be buying it from him

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  6. #16
    Join Date: Apr 2008

    Location: Bristol, UK

    Posts: 463
    I'm Greg.

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    I second all Clive has said about voltage and CLD plinths. Full on power and Slate is IMHE the way to go for a Garrard. The dropping of voltage supply as advocated by Martin Bastin is very old hat. It was originally recommended by Martin Boardman back in the 1970's where he advocated introducing a lightbulb in series in the power supply to drop voltage, depending on bulb wattage, to as low as 180 VAC. I experimented this tweak and without doubt, full on mains is the way to go. Dropping the voltage makes setting speed much harder and variable and it knocks off the motor torque which results in a loss of PRAT, dynamics and most certainly speed and attack on notes. It makes sense when you think it through. The speed control system for a Garrard is a braking system, being that the control is holding the system back from run away. Consequently, the motor retains it's torque right at the edge of performance and the control holds it back to the right speed.

    The benefits of Slate over CLD wood is well documented elsewhere and easily sourced.

    Mats on Garrards continue to be a topic discussed. I suspect this is more about an obsolete TT being exchanged without an original mat than for any other reason. Again, IMHE, the original mat on its own workes best. I experimented with a Funk mat and that just muddied the mid range. I did this at a show so others including Peter Comeau heard the result and agreed.

  7. #17
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: North East UK

    Posts: 6,358
    I'm InSpace.

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    Excellent stuff so far gentlmen.... More please!


    Cheers...
    Shian7
    --------------------------------------------------------

    Kudakutemo
    kudakutemo

    ari mizu-no tsuki

    Though it be be broken -
    broken again - still it's there:
    the moon on the water.

    - Choshu.

  8. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    I second all Clive has said about voltage and CLD plinths. Full on power and Slate is IMHE the way to go for a Garrard. The dropping of voltage supply as advocated by Martin Bastin is very old hat. It was originally recommended by Martin Boardman back in the 1970's where he advocated introducing a lightbulb in series in the power supply to drop voltage, depending on bulb wattage, to as low as 180 VAC. I experimented this tweak and without doubt, full on mains is the way to go. Dropping the voltage makes setting speed much harder and variable and it knocks off the motor torque which results in a loss of PRAT, dynamics and most certainly speed and attack on notes. It makes sense when you think it through. The speed control system for a Garrard is a braking system, being that the control is holding the system back from run away. Consequently, the motor retains it's torque right at the edge of performance and the control holds it back to the right speed.

    The benefits of Slate over CLD wood is well documented elsewhere and easily sourced.

    Mats on Garrards continue to be a topic discussed. I suspect this is more about an obsolete TT being exchanged without an original mat than for any other reason. Again, IMHE, the original mat on its own workes best. I experimented with a Funk mat and that just muddied the mid range. I did this at a show so others including Peter Comeau heard the result and agreed.
    False, The lightbulb tweek doesn't lower the voltage, it lowers the current which in turn reduces the motor torque fyi. :grin:

  9. #19
    Join Date: Nov 2008

    Location: Dartmouth in beautiful Devon UK

    Posts: 1,243

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    It does reduce the voltage! try measuring it.

    Dave

  10. #20

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    ^ I never did try it but it surely must depend whether the light bulb is wired in series or parallel to the mains supply?

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