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Thread: Does size matter?

  1. #61
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Location: Edinburgh

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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard View Post
    All you need to do is replace those undersize frame transformers with a couple of 160va but preferably 220va or better still 300va torroids and that amp would sing and drive anything. Trouble is there is no room in the case but you could do it as external PSU box or two. Typical Japanese they always scrimp on the power supply.
    A separate case/cases would not bother me, I guess it would be connected with a couple of those Neutrik Speakon type power connectors for left and right channels?
    How would one go about doing that though? and at what cost? Would other components not need changed also if using more powerful torroids such as the 300va?

    I used a Nu-Vista 300 power amp with a separate power supply, I guess it would be similar to this or the Border Patrol supplies?

    Steve.
    Last edited by sastusbulbas; 17-02-2008 at 19:04.

  2. #62
    Join Date: Jan 2008

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    Quote Originally Posted by sastusbulbas View Post
    A separate case/cases would not bother me, I guess it would be connected with a couple of those Neutrik Speakon type power connectors for left and right channels?
    How would one go about doing that though? and at what cost? Would other components not need changed also if using more powerful torroids such as the 300va?

    I used a Nu-Vista 300 power amp with a separate power supply, I guess it would be similar to this or the Border Patrol supplies?

    Steve.
    Just stick to the same secondary voltage and you can use any size of va up to 1000 phew . Look and see if it is just one secondary and they are not taking other sub tappings to supply something else. Dead simple if you can solder and you are logical in changing the wires. Personally I wouldn't use plugs I would just hard wire. I can supply cases with the transformers fitted to a + - and earth wire out. For 300va it would work at £80 per box. If you get a Farnell or RS box and wire it your self you will save £30 per box.

  3. #63
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,941
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Typical Japanese they always scrimp on the power supply.
    Perhaps that would explain why I've never heard a solid-state Japanese amplifier that I've liked?

    They always sound somewhat 'limp' and lack drive in the bass, even the esoteric stuff.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  4. #64
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Norwich

    Posts: 1,064
    I'm Mike.

    Default Monolithic V. Diminutive Speakers

    [Moved from "Big - Old - Legacy - Separates" thread]

    Quote Originally Posted by jandl100 View Post
    I think that an important issue here with a small-ish 2-way speaker is the amount of air that can be moved.

    My feeling is that there is no substitute to loudspeaker diaphragm area if you want to re-create the sound (dynamics, and sheer scale) of a large orchestra (100+ musicians belting it out) or a rock band in full blast.

    I really don't think that a little 2-way can do that. By choosing such a loudspeaker you are severely limiting the breadth of music that can be reproduced with a reasonable and believable facsimile of reality.
    I've just found this posting buried among essays on pro or anti computer/cdp performance (I think, as my attention span only copes with shortish, pithy postings).

    Endorsed by Mr Ed, I also second this motion of big against small speakers if you want to achieve sheer scale. I have had many of both types over four plus decades, but have rarely been without large speakers in my main systems.

    I think there ARE trade-offs, with the larger speakers being slower than an equivalent smaller one (depending on amplification), and the smaller speakers are probably more domestically acceptable

    Apart from their (to me) obvious ability to portray far, far more of the 'big picture' of larger ensembles, and probably smaller ones too, there must be design and manufacturing as well as other considerations to take into account.

    Of course, quality is everything.

    I had Leak 2075s in the late seventies/eighties (large bass boxes with swivel mid/top boxes). Sounded ok with valves, but dull as ditchwater, and slow, with entry-level Naim. They were not expensive at the time (£350?).

    Three large ProAc Response speakers I've more recently had were quite superb in every parameter of performance and presentation through (admittedly higher level) Naim.

    Back to the original premise; you really cannot match a well-designed large speaker, whether ported, transmission line, electrostatic or horn.

  5. #65
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Gloucestershire

    Posts: 252

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    The thing to remember is that a big three-way speaker has a crossover somewhere between 250 and 400 Hz and another between 2.5kHz and 5kHz and that these are extremely difficult to design and invariably have a detrimental effect on the sound. At best they will make it harsh and at worst phase errors can cause some discomfort and lots of information can be lost in the "fuzziness" they cause. In large rooms and when the listening distance is greater than average, they can be very impressive, but a better compromise for most people is an average sized two-way with an optional Sub. Some prefer the sound of stand mounters and are happy without it, but those that demand the scale of large and powerful three way speakers can pay the extra and be happy too.

  6. #66
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,941
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    The thing to remember is that a big three-way speaker has a crossover somewhere between 250 and 400 Hz and another between 2.5kHz and 5kHz and that these are extremely difficult to design and invariably have a detrimental effect on the sound. At best they will make it harsh and at worst phase errors can cause some discomfort and lots of information can be lost in the "fuzziness" they cause.
    There is no harshness or "fuzziness" in my system with the SP100s - just beautiful 'live' sounding music delivered with huge scale and dynamic impact, when the music demands, and finesse and subtlety too when that's required

    Those tiny little ADM9s are probably ok for background music in a dining room and that's about it

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  7. #67
    Join Date: Feb 2008

    Posts: 424

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    There is no harshness or "fuzziness" in my system with the SP100s - just beautiful 'live' sounding music delivered with huge scale and dynamic impact, when the music demands, and finesse and subtlety too when that's required

    Those tiny little ADM9s are probably ok for background music in a dining room and that's about it

    Marco.
    This post will bear analysis. SP100's are good speakers but they are an old design and new designs from experts, with newly designed drive units, will be better.

    My LS's (actives) with a 2 wire sub, will do it. I know it, that's why I bought them. I use them to replay a lot of my own recordings, and I know what they are supposed to sound like.

    I have read the posts on the mods and "upgrades" done to your tube amp Marco, and that process would drive me nuts. I would think "oh bugger this thing is defective and inaccurate, I'll have to get it repaired."

    I don't think you can have heard adm9's working properly. Go and see Ash and check 'em out. Then re-assess.

  8. #68
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,941
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    JC,

    SP100s are not old designs - they are a current design based on traditional principles which use current up-to-date drive units, and I have no intention whatsoever to downgrade to tiny little stand-mounts, no matter how much you wax lyrical about them or how good they are in their intended application.

    You really must come and hear my system sometime to understand why the statement you've posted is quite comical - enough said. You can bring your ADM9s, too, and Ashley.

    Regarding my valve amp, I'm delighted with it, thanks. 'Tube rolling' is all part of the fun of owing a valve amp, and the sonic rewards of getting it right are substantial. The results I've achieved now are quite spectacular.

    I'd much rather be doing that than fiddling around with iPods and suchlike!

    <Boooorrrinnngg>

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  9. #69
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Gloucestershire

    Posts: 252

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    Marco SP100's are even tinier little stand mounts sharing a box with a Woofer and, to muddy the waters, the biggest advances in transducer design have been in 6.5" drive units because they sell in the largest quantities. Therefore it's not as clear cut as you think because big speakers have two crossovers, not one, and the lower one is right where it can do the most damage, especially to phase. And there's more because the two crossovers interact and sum so that it's practically impossible to make this inaudible through the all important mid range.

    The question you have to ask is not about the size of box but whether two of the best 6'5" drive units with only one electronic (and inaudible) crossover together with a very special 40 kilo sub with an enormous high power drive unit in a sealed box, might actually be far louder and better sounding.

    You also need to remember that we've got a history of designing bloody good big loudspeakers as well so are able to make comparisons.

    Here is a review for consideration. Hugh was Head of the BBC Engineers training school in the days when they cared about sound.

    http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/oct99/articles/av1.htm

    Ash

  10. #70
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,941
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Interesting. The Gravitions sound like my kind of speakers. Pity there are no pictures?

    Ashley, I'm just trying to reign in JC's abounding enthusiasm for his ADM9s

    I think it is pointless trying to make silly comparisons between what he uses and my SP100s because they're both completely different animals.

    Both of you would do well to trot up here at some point, or to Spendor HQ and ask Terry Miles to let you hear a pair of SP100R, and 'update your records', so to speak.

    Yes I know you've got a history of designing bloody good big speakers (and other things, too) I just wish you would get bloody back to doing it! I might even buy a pair

    Ultimately it's that sort of stuff which is of more interest to me than your ADM9s.

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

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