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Thread: Class T-amps

  1. #321
    Join Date: Mar 2008

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    Yes, it was a Gold, and I agree with what Gary says about the comparison. The Gold is better, but the mini T is great value for money.

    As for the Hlly versus the Gold, yes I've heard both, but not on the same speakers so I can't give a direct comparison. They will sound different as they use different chipsets from different companies. The Hlly does sound good though IMHO, with a valve like mid. I liked it. It should have a fair bit more clout than the Gold if that's what your speakers need.

  2. #322
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: Galashiels

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    Quote Originally Posted by dave2010 View Post
    Coming back to this thread after a while - will some of the HLLY amps, e.g the 90, have more "welly" than (say) a Bantam Gold, yet deliver similar audio quality? If not, are we then forced back to more traditional designs from established suppliers/manufacturers?

    My regular amp seems to be having problems now which are not getting any better, so I may need to replace it soon.
    Again I have not directly compared them, but I would not say the Hlly has less midrange insight than the mini T, it just has a slightly darker balance because it has much deeper bass IMHO. If you need more power, buy the Hlly, as if you don't like it, you won't have a problem selling it on at little loss. I think you will like it though. I thought it had a very valve like mid with a sweet top and deep tight bass.

  3. #323
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Coventry

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    I'm Will.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wee tee cee View Post
    Is theyre a big leap in quality between the bantum and the gold or even the mono blocks because this has really got me Interested.
    Tony I'm only going to add to the confusion here...the one definitive thing I can say is that both Bantams, the mini-t, and the muse for that matter are tremendous value for money, and one can't go wrong with either (well as long as they don't blow up that is )

    I've tried the Bantam Classic, the Gold, and the Mini-T in my kitchen system, and with the equipment they were partnered with at the time, an SB receiver/analogue out and a pair of Mission 780SEs I struggled to spot much of a difference between the three. If I was really pushed then I'd suggest that the Gold was slightly smoother at the top, and perhaps the Classic does get a little harsh at higher volumes...but it's a gnat's arse

    I think one would have to pair these amps with better sources than I had at the time to notice significant differences, as you know the analogue output of an SB receiver is probably not the best.

    I think Ali & Gaz have done much more rigorous high end testing than I, I suppose it depends on the ultimate location of the amp, for a budget secondary system the classic and the mini-t are perfect. But from what Ali and Gaz have reported the Gold does seem like it's at its best in a higher end system, and given that the monoblocks are derived from it I suppose they're the next logical improvement.

    A couple of interesting things I learned from John at temple audio is that the Bantam Classic is by default set at a +3dB gain (probably why it gets a little harsh at higher volumes), the Gold is 0 with an optional +6dB setting, which is why the Classic at 15wpc sound as loud as the Gold at 25wpc on it's normal setting. Hence when I first plugged the Gold in I was a little confused as to why it wasn't comparatively louder than the classic.

    The one thing the Bantams do have in their favour is build quality, particularly the classic, it almost feels indestructible, great for portability etc.

    Clear as mud
    Cheers, Will

  4. #324
    Join Date: Mar 2008

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    Yep, pretty much agree with that Will. The difference between the mini T and the Gold was obvious, but that was through my open baffles, which are pretty transparent, and also my WAD Pre 2 valve preamp was used, which is a pretty good pre.

  5. #325
    Join Date: Feb 2011

    Location: Troon

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    I'm tony.

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    Thanks guys,
    Must admit the bantum is sounding quite remarkable,The 3d soundstage on some tracks is quite astonishing.The amp was clipping out when played at really anti social levels but otherwise wants for nothing.Gives a lovely combination of valve sound stage and ss accuracy,speed and dynamics.

    I cannot get over how good it sounds for the money it knocks the socks off the valve pre power set up I have on loan for detail and punch and runs rings round my naim for musical enjoyment and Involvement.
    Seriously thinking about selling the naim to bankroll some mono blocks.

  6. #326
    Join Date: May 2010

    Location: Melbourne, Australia

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    I'm Greg.

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    Over here in Oz there is no difference ($200 approx) in price between TOPPING TP60 TA2022 2X80W and HLLY T Amp 90. Any views on which would be better buy for my macmini to caiman gator? I was tempted by the Bantam classics but they have been out of stock for a while and the gold are around $300.
    Greg.

  7. #327
    Join Date: Mar 2008

    Location: Galashiels

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    Not heard the Topping, but since they use the same chipset, I'd guess they sound pretty similar. I'd just buy the cheapest.

  8. #328
    Join Date: Feb 2010

    Location: Moved to frozen north, beyond Inverness

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    I'm Dave.

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    Has anyone tried the Bantam variants, e.e the one with the headphone output, or the USB model? I did consider the headphone one, but decided I didn't need it as the Caiman does headphones rather well. The model with USB could be useful for some who don't also have a DAC. I have no information about the quality of the DAC in the Bantam models.
    Dave

  9. #329
    Join Date: Jun 2010

    Location: Southampton

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    Right then.
    It would appear as though the TA2020 is the preferred chip for clarity and detail. I have also (finally) found a TA2020 amp with built in DAC for a reasonable price. I am about to embark on building a new desktop PC and hit on the clever idea of shoehorning the t-Amp into a 5 1/2" drive bay. I know the spec says 61mm high, but I am confident that is a typo.

    I can then use a cable like this and connect the USB input direct to the motherboard and power the amp via an unused 12v supply tail from the PC power supply. I am looking at a 700W supply with 4 x 12 rails. I shouldnt have any problems pinching a couple of amps.

    Finally I can run a set of speaker leads out of an unused PCI slot and connect them to my new found desktop JBLs.

    Your thoughts pleae.

  10. #330
    Join Date: Jul 2010

    Location: North Cambs UK, Earth, Sol, Orion - Cygnus arm of galaxy

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    Quote Originally Posted by Techno Commander View Post
    Your thoughts please.
    Added a "s" to pleae

    Bring it on, i like seeing projects being put together & it sounds very do-able

    Those T amps only draw about a couple of amps at full volume so there is no way the PSU will be stressed. If it was me though i'd use a 15V supply (if available) & put a linear regulator on it for better sound quality Always the fettler
    Bests, Mark



    "We must believe in free will. We have no choice" Isaac Bashevis Singer

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