New acrylic platter for the SL-1200/1210

[Ammonite Audio]

It must be acrylic, since the option of a black platter was mentioned, and I'm not aware of Lexan (polycarbonate) being available in black. Also, as YNWaN says, polycarbonate does have different look to it. It's also (I'm reliably informed) very tricky to machine and expensive as a result. Whatever, the Timestep platter will result in a quite different sonic feel to that of the MN platter. Which is best can only be determined by listening.

[pure sound]

I thought the platter on the Bardo was aluminium (with the option of the glass mat)?

Ah, it may well be. For some reason I'd assumed it was a black delrin or similar. However, given Herr Brinkmann's preferences elsewhere I suppose it would be odd if he was using a polymer platter on the Bardo.

Marco it would be interesting to hear what differences were audible between the two approaches. On the one hand extra mass and a bi-metallic construction. On the other, presumably a lighter platter, more under the control (perhaps) of the motor circuitry with the supposedly advantageous properties of a closer acoustic impedance match to that of the vinyl. I'm surprised the achromat isn't the mat of choice with the second option (if Arthur K has been involved) rather than the 'Herbie's' type. I suppose a like for like comparison might be difficult unless both platters can be used with the same bearing?


I don't think Lexan was particularly difficult to machine. I certainly don't recall any issues with having it done back in my Voyd days. It was just very expensive in sheet form!

[colinB]

Why not just put a acrylic mat on the platter. SRM do a 3mm one for thirty quid.

[Marco]

Hi Guy,

Marco it would be interesting to hear what differences were audible between the two approaches. On the one hand extra mass and a bi-metallic construction. On the other, presumably a lighter platter, more under the control (perhaps) of the motor circuitry with the supposedly advantageous properties of a closer acoustic impedance match to that of the vinyl.

Indeed it will. My only comment so far on the 'Timestep' platter is that, aesthetically, I'm not a fan of the 'frosted plastic look', whether it's acrylic or Lexan. For me it looks quite cheap and has been done to death by the likes of Clearaudio, and many others. But I guess it's partly a 'fashion' thing at the moment.

Therefore the combination of the (to me) rather ugly plastic platter on the (to me) rather dull looking MKII 1210 (sorry folks!) is rather an exercise in blandness. It just looks somewhat too 'sober' for my liking.

Perhaps I'm biased, but I much prefer the appearance of Mike New's platter, when suitably polished, on a nice shiny black MK5 Techy:





For me, that looks far nicer and classier than the 1210 pictured on the Timestep forum, shown earlier

Sonically, as yet, I've no idea which platter is better. All will be revealed in due course. I certainly won't let the looks of the acrylic one put me off.

One question I'd ask, however - is the acrylic platter a bigger size than normal? The reason I ask is that it appears to dwarf what looks like a normal LP....

I suppose a like for like comparison might be difficult unless both platters can be used with the same bearing?

Don't see why not. What difficulty would you see the acrylic platter presenting an MN bearing? Also, when I spoke with Arthur, he never indicated that the platter required the use of a certain bearing.

Btw, on a totally unrelated matter, since I've got your attention.... When you do needle-drops with your SP10, using your Io (and matching SUT), how do you overcome the issue of overloading the USB device/sound-card with excessive gain (presuming that this is the case)?

Chris (Stratmangler) and I tried doing some needle-drops at the weekend with my Techy, and with my SPU and A23 SUT, through the Croft and into the EMU USB device, we were unable to adjust the recording levels to anything like normal, due to the excessive gain being produced by the A23.

I presuming that with your Io being even lower output than my SPU, the SUT you use will be very high gain, and thus will present the same difficulties as we had in my system? Or if not, what's happening at your end that isn't happening at mine? Any advice would be appreciated!

I'm planning to buy a pair of 6db in-line attenuators to try and solve the problem, but if there's a better solution, I'm all ears!

Marco.

[YNWaN]

Looks the same diameter as yours is to me Marco, except the outer diameter is carried up to the level of the record rather than waisted as yours is. In the case of your platter I expect this is to lower the centre of gravity whilst the intention on the latter will be to maximise rotational inertia.

[MCRU]

Have you put your order in for a platter then Marco? Wait until mine is ready then maybe do a head to head or "bake off" as its known in the trade?

[Marco]

Hi Mark,

Yup, I guess you're right. It just looks a little strange...

Have you put your order in for a platter then Marco? Wait until mine is ready then maybe do a head to head or "bake off" as its known in the trade?

Don't need to put an order in, dude. Arthur's sending me one to try. A bake-off sounds cool! Your place or mine?

Marco.

[pure sound]

Btw, on a totally unrelated matter, since I've got your attention.... When you do needle-drops with your SP10, using your Io (and matching SUT), how do you overcome the issue of overloading the USB device/sound-card with excessive gain (presuming that this is the case)?

Fair enough re Dave C & Arthur K. I'm not aware of any of that.

With regard to recording; I don't use a Soundcard/USB device. I just use a cheap Tascam CD Recorder and burn the tracks to a blank disc which I then take to my computer, import & upload. If the recording needs the start or finish editing I do that in Wavepad but I don't use any normalising or level adjustment. Recording level is set at the CD Recorder. Actually I set the recorder to highest sensitivity & use the gain control on my phono stage to set to the desired level.

I'm sure there must be much better ADC's about now. I probably should try one. However, it isn't something I do often enough to make it a priority.

[YNWaN]

Guy, I think your recording method works rather well - in addition, I have grown to share your views regarding normalisation and level adjustment.

Can I ask your views on Lexan (polycarbonate) versus acrylic? How would you compare their sonic signatures?

[mike1210]

Btw, on a totally unrelated matter, since I've got your attention.... When you do needle-drops with your SP10, using your Io (and matching SUT), how do you overcome the issue of overloading the USB device/sound-card with excessive gain (presuming that this is the case)?

Chris (Stratmangler) and I tried doing some needle-drops at the weekend with my Techy, and with my SPU and A23 SUT, through the Croft and into the EMU USB device, we were unable to adjust the recording levels to anything like normal, due to the excessive gain being produced by the A23.

I presuming that with your Io being even lower output than my SPU, the SUT you use will be very high gain, and thus will present the same difficulties as we had in my system? Or if not, what's happening at your end that isn't happening at mine? Any advice would be appreciated!

I'm planning to buy a pair of 6db in-line attenuators to try and solve the problem, but if there's a better solution, I'm all ears!

Marco.

Marco I had a similar problem with my 1210 using a Trichord Dino, the output would nuke my SoundBlaster Live, further reading I discovered I needed a soundcard with pre trim on the inputs. Reading forums and the like they said many phonostages wil overload PC inputs unless pre-trimmed.

I got a Focusrite Saffire which has seperate input gain levels so you can level out the recording well.

Is that what you meant, sorry if I read it wrong