New Paul Hynes SR5 Power Supply

[Marco]

Hi Chris,

Most interesting.... I'm sure Richard knows what he's talking about

However, as we discussed on the phone, I have a very simple policy when evaluating changes to my system, or individual components within it (such as my T/T), and that is, after thorough evaluation, if it sounds better - then it *is* better.

Others and I here are experienced enough listeners to know when a genuine improvement has been made, or when any change has simply resulted in 'different', but not better, or indeed worse. I trust my ears and my experience to judge effectively in these matters.

In that respect, moving the earth tag, as outlined earlier in this thread (which I've now had soldered directly to the board, as per Mike's recommendation) and upgrading the DC cable from the SR5 PSU to the T/T with Kimber PJB, has resulted in a significant sonic improvement, as indeed has, for example, fitting Mike New's high precision bearing and platter - or indeed the Paul Hynes SR5 PSU.

I understand where Richard is coming from, and share his concerns in some respects, but I don't believe that any of the modifications recommended here on AoS by highly qualified and experienced professionals are in any way detrimental to the performance of the SL-1200/1210; indeed experience of implementing them clearly shows that they aren't. I also consider the prices asked for the various products being sold to be entirely reasonable, given the bespoke nature of their design and overall high standards of quality.

However, I respect Richard's experience with Technics T/Ts, and feel sure that we could all learn from him, although it would be nice if he participated in discussions and became a valued member of our community, rather than making critical remarks from afar via a third party, as a result of not properly knowing the people behind the modifications he's criticising.

Furthermore, I think Richard should hear one of the very heavily modified Techies, such as Martin's or my own, and compare it to one of his, to judge things for himself. Personally, I would be very interested in his opinion, and indeed would value it.

So to Richard, I say (presuming he's reading this): come out of the shadows and join us, and add your valuable experience to the discussions taking place here, where you will be made most welcome!

AoS is not like the other audio forums you so detest

Marco.

[drrd]

I'd be really interested if anybody has or could make some recordings they can post. Same arm, cartridge, everything, EXCEPT stock vs. modded PSU. Sorry, I know it might be a big ask but always worth a try

[sonddek]

Now I'm really confused. Should the ground lead from the Timestep be attached at bottom left, as recommended here by some, or top left, as recommended by Dave Cawley?

[MCRU]

Now I'm really confused. Should the ground lead from the Timestep be attached at bottom left, as recommended here by some, or top left, as recommended by Dave Cawley?

As its simply a screw holding it in place try both and see which sounds best?

[chris@panteg]

Now I'm really confused. Should the ground lead from the Timestep be attached at bottom left, as recommended here by some, or top left, as recommended by Dave Cawley?

Hi Richard

Richard looked over my deck and assured me the bottom left position is correct , so don't be alarmed ! The top right position can be a source of interference ,that's what he is saying

[MartinT]

Bottom-left looks the better place when inspecting the PCB tracks and sounds better, so that's the one to use.

[MCRU]

Where do all the so called "Technics" experts come from? One says top right, another says bottom left, I don't believe for a second that putting the earth tag on either will make a jot of difference to sound quality or should I re-phrase that to perceived sound quality as in the hi-fi world there are a lot of placebos.

I would make an educated guess that there are no more than 50 people in the UK with systems good enough to hear the differences moving that small wire will make, to the rest of us mere mortals it won't make a jot of difference will it, IMHO of course!

[MartinT]

David - try it and see for yourself!

[chris@panteg]

Hi David

I moved mine to the bottom left and to be honest i can't say for sure if its that much better , previously it was at top right for the last 2 years and no harm has come to my deck ! so the bottom line is if it sounds best to you then that's that .

The information Richard has provided is there for you to argue over if you wish , i moved mine to the bottom left after reading Paul and Martin's post anyway , and now Richard says the same bottom left is correct , what else is there to say .

[Mike_New]

Where do all the so called "Technics" experts come from? One says top right, another says bottom left, I don't believe for a second that putting the earth tag on either will make a jot of difference to sound quality or should I re-phrase that to perceived sound quality as in the hi-fi world there are a lot of placebos.I would make an educated guess that there are no more than 50 people in the UK with systems good enough to hear the differences moving that small wire will make, to the rest of us mere mortals it won't make a jot of difference will it, IMHO of course!

David,
I am afraid you are very wrong, which worries me.

I will state again, categorically, The focal, Zero-volt-return point for the PCB is the bottom left hand self-Tap screw point on the PCB. The other two locations have a square pad which is not connected to the common Zero Volt rail (PCB copper Track) on any of the many PCBs that I have examined. Further these two pads are surface varnished and therefore insulated.

If other people have connected the zero volt return lead of the Time Step; or any other power supply for that matter; to one of these incorrect terminals, then it is because they do not know what they are doing. or that they have been misinformed.


You will indeed get a 'working' zero volt return from the other two connection points. But as I have stated before this return connection will be via the metal of the chassis. which is not an ideal conductor. Why for goodness sake do people sell so called special cables if proper zero volt/earth connections are not recognized as being important!!! Further unless you have taken steps to remove the paint/varnish on the top of the mounting posts, then you will have an even less valid return path. Also the hardened self-tap screws are not designed for the maximum electrical conductivity!!!

It is accepted electronic engineering practice to ensure the integrety of zero-Volt return points and Earth connections in any piece of electronic equipment be it aerospace or a lowly lump of audio equipment.