New Paul Hynes SR5 Power Supply

[MartinT]

Which DC cable are you going to use, or did Paul provide something suitable along with the SR5?

I am sticking with the cable that Dave Cawley installed but I've shortened it dramatically to about a third of its length. It seems perfectly adequate and I doubt that it drops voltage by much at all.

Once I've installed the Neutrik connector I'll measure the voltage drop from SR5 to Technics PCB.

[MartinT]

Oh, and Dave's Timestep cable uses the stripe for positive voltage so polarity is easily identified.

[Ammonite Audio]

Marco and Paul



Be careful about using the same point as that used by the Timestep PS.
I have a customer in Melbourne who received his new 'modded SL1200' with the zero volt wire connected to the top of the PCB under one of the self tap screws, for convenience presumedly. Fortunateley he is a former Hewlett Packard instumentation engineer of some considerable experience, he called me to indicate his dissapointment at this.

These screws should not be use as the earth point, as they have no connection with the zero volt copper track on the PCB. The only screw that serves as the earth connection point on the PCB is the bottom left hand corner, where the copper track is taken specifically to this point.

If any other earth point is used, then the 0 volt circuit will be via the alluminium chassis. The die cast alluminium is to an extent granular and is certainly not a good conductor, thus you will have a resistance (and noise) to earth which could seriously degrade performance.

In my instructions posted in the linked thread, I did recommend using the "proper" PCB earth point, exactly as you say, although my pictures aren't the clearest. It always puzzled me why Timestep chose to use the chassis earth, when there was an optimal one already there on the PCB.

[Marco]

Hi Hugo or Leo (or anyone else),

Any chance of a pic of where exactly on the PCB this "proper" earth point is?

It would be handy to keep as a reference

Marco.

[Marco]

Hi Martin,

I am sticking with the cable that Dave Cawley installed but I've shortened it dramatically to about a third of its length. It seems perfectly adequate and I doubt that it drops voltage by much at all.

Fair enough. I've heard the sonic improvement before that the Kimber DC cable made when I had the KAB PSU, so I know it works, and it's sitting there doing nothing just now, so might as well go back in

Marco.

[Mike_New]

Shuggie,

It always puzzled me why Timestep chose to use the chassis earth, when there was an optimal one already there on the PCB.

Are you saying that generally the earth connection is not where it should be!!
I was under the impression that this occurance may only be an occasional thing.

[kcc123]

Hi,
Can I used the SR3 or SR5 for my SL150? Do I have to send my turntable away for the upgrade? How much advance in performance will I expect? Thanks!

[Ammonite Audio]

Shuggie,




Are you saying that generally the earth connection is not where it should be!!
I was under the impression that this occurance may only be an occasional thing.

Mike, I'm sorry but you've lost me there

Hi Hugo or Leo (or anyone else),

Any chance of a pic of where exactly on the PCB this "proper" earth point is?

It would be handy to keep as a reference

Marco.

This photo shows the PCB's proper earthing point (bottom left hand side, as you look from the front of the deck):

[Marco]

Hi Hugo,

Thanks for that, mate... However, it's still unclear to me *exactly* where the proper earthing point is (the bottom L/H side, as I see it, is just an area of black metal).....

Any chance of doing one of those arrows Leo uses, so I can see precisely the *EXACT* spot on the PCB you're referring to (close-up, as a full-screen size picture) in terms of where the relevant wires are to be soldered?

Cheers!

Marco.

[Reid Malenfant]

I think Hugo is refering to the black wire & solder tag connected to the mounting screw on the front left hand side of the PCB on the right Marco

Nice arrow added 6zmv41.jpg