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Thread: Just won these on Ebay......

  1. #141
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,795
    I'm Andrew.

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    Marco,

    I too have a pair of 15XR's that I picked up for £30 from a local 'boot sale! I intend to use these in a second system that I'm putting togther which is going to be valve based. Have you any idea what modification you'd like to do to your 15's? Me, personally, I'll probably be replacing the binding posts, internally re-wiring with pure silver cable (cotton dialectic), the foam looks quite good in mine so i'll keep that. Probably re-build the cross-over.

  2. #142
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 111,027
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Hi Andrew,

    Ditto! Perhaps we should compare notes during the process? I won't be starting my project though until the New Year

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  3. #143
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,795
    I'm Andrew.

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    Any ideas what CAPS your going to use in the cross-over, or if your even going to get a newer replacement? I'm on the look out for some cheap speaker stands. I'll probably looking around cash-generators to see if I can nab a bargain over the next few weeks. What sort of improvements did you notice when you put them on the stands. I must admit that mine have been in my second system (which is a complete Quad 77 setup) sitting on the floor. I have two differing speaker cables to try out Nordost SPM reference, or QED silver. I still don't know whether I'm going to bi-amp modify them yet!! There are a few posts on the net on how to modify them but I've not found anyone reportedly bi-amping them and reporting on the outcome.

  4. #144
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 111,027
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Hi Andrew,

    I'll probably use my tried and trusted favs: Clarity Cap MRs (which I used to great effect in the Tannoys), providing I can get the right values

    I'll also fit some silver WBT speaker terminals and rewire them internally with VDH CS Hybrid cable, again as I did with the Tannoys, and also upgrade the inductors with Mundorfs.

    The crossovers in question:





    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  5. #145
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Chorley, Lancs

    Posts: 2,747
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    Any ideas what CAPS your going to use in the cross-over, or if your even going to get a newer replacement? I'm on the look out for some cheap speaker stands. I'll probably looking around cash-generators to see if I can nab a bargain over the next few weeks. What sort of improvements did you notice when you put them on the stands. I must admit that mine have been in my second system (which is a complete Quad 77 setup) sitting on the floor. I have two differing speaker cables to try out Nordost SPM reference, or QED silver. I still don't know whether I'm going to bi-amp modify them yet!! There are a few posts on the net on how to modify them but I've not found anyone reportedly bi-amping them and reporting on the outcome.
    I recently referbed a set of Castle Kendal II's, i used Ansar polyprop caps as suggested by Andre and they made a huge difference, in my opinion, i would rewire using the same cable as you use to connect to the amp, once again i did this as a suggestion of another member, and to be frank i did it cos it made sense, and unless there is something wrong with the binding posts, i would save your money.

    ​
    As the late Colonel Sanders once said
    "I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"

  6. #146
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Yorkshire

    Posts: 9,795
    I'm Andrew.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jac Hawk View Post
    I recently referbed a set of Castle Kendal II's, i used Ansar polyprop caps as suggested by Andre and they made a huge difference, in my opinion, i would rewire using the same cable as you use to connect to the amp, once again i did this as a suggestion of another member, and to be frank i did it cos it made sense, and unless there is something wrong with the binding posts, i would save your money.
    Many thanks guys for the options regarding the CAPS. I intend keeping the 15's so I'd like to get the best parts for the job. I'm in a quandry as to which cable to use. This second system is going to be used for mainly jazz, a bit of classical and maybe accoustic stuff. I have 3 options, Nordost SPM reference, Make my own out of 99.9999% pure silver with cotton dialetic + EMI + RFI shielding, or good old QED which I used to use in my all Quad set-up, this later got replaced with the SPM reference. My old "Reference" setup included the Michell technoarm and Valhalla interconnects, and boy could I tell I had the silver in that set-up screechingly high treble!! I mainly listen to thrash, prog, heavy metal/rock. I'm now all Cu in the "reference" system and I'm really enjoying the noise it's making, perhaps even more when I get Marco's SR5 power supply at the end of January . One final question, what sort of height would you use the 15's at??? I'm looking for a cheapo pair of stands to put them on.

  7. #147
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 111,027
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    perhaps even more when I get Marco's SR5 power supply at the end of January...
    Hahahaha - dream on... That one's a keeper!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  8. #148
    Join Date: Dec 2008

    Location: Yorks

    Posts: 16,643
    I'm Nobody.

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jac Hawk View Post
    I recently referbed a set of Castle Kendal II's, i used Ansar polyprop caps as suggested by Andre and they made a huge difference, in my opinion


    Be an idea to get shut of those old inductors at some point, i used to use RATA Iron Cores when they were available as i thought them the best Inductor i used at that time, i would now opt for Foil inductors..As for x-over power resistors, i've always used Caddock 'MP930' films..Internal speaker wiring:I've never been a fan of Ag platted Cu wire & was more than happy using Kimber 'TCSS' & 'TCX' i still do.High quality Binding posts such as WBT or J.A.Michell do make a difference aswell.I've always like the Michell amp & speaker posts
    Last edited by Rare Bird; 28-12-2010 at 22:08.

  9. #149
    Join Date: Nov 2010

    Location: Chorley, Lancs

    Posts: 2,747
    I'm Mike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by REXTON View Post
    One final question, what sort of height would you use the 15's at??? I'm looking for a cheapo pair of stands to put them on.
    The rule of thumb is to get the tweeter/midrange as close to ear height listening position as possibe, so it depends how low you sit, also i have found with my MS45Ti's which i guess are roughly the same size, that having them too low seems to neutralize the bass.

    I would say the lowest stands to use would be about 40cm up to about 55cm

    ​
    As the late Colonel Sanders once said
    "I'm too drunk to taste this chicken!!"

  10. #150
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

    Posts: 14,540
    I'm David.

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    That 'orrible black cap HAS to go and tbh, any polyprop cap of the correct rating will be a dramatic improvement (I've done it with other speakers with the same type of cap - these were in vast use in UK made speakers back then.

    As for wiring, I really wouldn't go mad, as the inherant distortions in the drive units, combined with dispersion issues caused by the rebated baffle would mask much of the finer points of fancy silver wires. hey, I'm not being over-critical, just trying to put a little perspective in here..
    I can't go on and I can't go back, I don't feel so matter of fact,
    I tried and tried to make good sense, What's the good to try it all again?

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