SL-1200 Platters, bearings, mats and PSU's, cartridges, arms, and more...

[MartinT]

As I said earlier, the friction of the MN bearing is close enough to the Technics bearing that it probably has little effect on the motor system. The mass of the platter is irrelevant once it is spinning.

[Clive]

Given that a motor control system has already been designed for & fitted to the 1210 it'd seem sensible to keep the mechanical & dynamic characteristics of any retro-fittable parts close to those of the originals ie masses, friction etc.

Is it being asserted that using a bearing with greater friction and adding a heavier platter somehow makes better use of the 1210's motor control system than the original items? It'd be interesting to know if there's any actual measurements to support this. (Please note, I'm not doubting that the new platter & bearing change & possibly improve things, I'm just interested to learn how & why)

My comment about friction and motor control wasn't directed at the Techie or Mike's bearing, it was a general comment. I'm just saying that with some TTs as part of an overall control and drive system there are situations when some friction can help.

[Ammonite Audio]

My comment about friction and motor control wasn't directed at the Techie or Mike's bearing, it was a general comment. I'm just saying that with some TTs as part of an overall control and drive system there are situations when some friction can help.

I think that's correct - my Kenwood KD-770D has a relatively high drag bearing, which is apparently designed so that the motor is always pushing gently against that drag. So, it is designed not to overshoot the set speed and then have to over compensate att the time. The end result is something that is much calmer in character than the Technics; in fact it's not a million miles from my old NA Spacedeck, which in my book is a compliment.

[Ammonite Audio]

With the standard platter do you think the SR3 would be sufficient ?

Yes, but if you have a chance to try the SR5 as well, you may find that the bigger PSU does yield further benefits - that was certainly the case with my Kenwood, which I do acknowledge is a different beast to the Techy. I know that the objectivists will state that the Techy's current requirement is bugger all, so the SR5 is just overkill, but it's worth a try if you can compare the two PSUs.

Edit: I see that you are in London, which is not far from me. My SR5 has an adjustable output that will provide the 21v that the Technics needs, and I'd be happy to let you try it.

[chris@panteg]

Hi Marco

Its a shame Mike and Dave have fallen out so badly ' and i think in the long term Dave may regret some of the things he has stated !.

Do you remember what Gordon Brown said after the election ' we can achieve more together than what we could alone ' very valid is it not ?

Can i correct you on one small point regarding the psu 's i believe KAB were 1st to market with there psu ' but what Dave was emphasising was the 1st to overcome the problems of the internal regulator.

Guy's point about understanding why is a good one but i would like to add ' why does it have to be High mass at all ! and why all alloy ? Dave has stated he thinks all metal is best for a platter , i'm not so sure ' why not Lexan which is far superior to acrylic IMHO .

[colinB]

Yes, but if you have a chance to try the SR5 as well, you may find that the bigger PSU does yield further benefits - that was certainly the case with my Kenwood, which I do acknowledge is a different beast to the Techy. I know that the objectivists will state that the Techy's current requirement is bugger all, so the SR5 is just overkill, but it's worth a try if you can compare the two PSUs.

Edit: I see that you are in London, which is not far from me. My SR5 has an adjustable output that will provide the 21v that the Technics needs, and I'd be happy to let you try it.

Thanks for the offer Shuggie. My only concern is according to Leo's schematic for the installation of his SR3, you have to rip out various resistors and the internal transformer before you can run the power supply.

[MartinT]

what Dave was emphasising was the 1st to overcome the problems of the internal regulator.

Yes, that's true as the KAB PSU retains the offboard regulator in the Technics whereas the Timestep bypasses it completely. I removed the regulator completely from mine rather than leave it there with cut cables.

[Ammonite Audio]

Thanks for the offer Shuggie. My only concern is according to Leo's schematic for the installation of his SR3, you have to rip out various resistors and the internal transformer before you can run the power supply.

Not necessarily so. You don't have to remove the transformer if you don't want to, at least in the first instance when you're just trying things out, although most people recommend it. If you wish I can send you (by e-mail) some details and photos on how to apply an external DC supply. The most basic installation involves disconnecting one component from the main PCB (easily reversible if you're sensible and careful), and two new DC wires to attach. It is very simples.

[chris@panteg]

Hi Martin

Yes quite right of course

One other thing its a little harsh on Dave's ' half baked bearing ' polishing a turd ' well don't forget we all bought these decks with original stock bearing's in place , if the actually very clever and cheap original was so 'shite ' there is no way the 1200 would have attracted me in the 1st place

It is a cheap mass produced bearing built to a cost , but it remarkably achieves low friction and noise ' a guy in the US (Jim) is selling a modded version with some success and he backs it up with high quality rips and fair play to him.

[colinB]

Not necessarily so. You don't have to remove the transformer if you don't want to, at least in the first instance when you're just trying things out, although most people recommend it. If you wish I can send you (by e-mail) some details and photos on how to apply an external DC supply. The most basic installation involves disconnecting one component from the main PCB (easily reversible if you're sensible and careful), and two new DC wires to attach. It is very simples.

Sounds good. I will send you a PM.