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Thread: Supporting the SL-1210

  1. #31
    MartinT Guest

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    I've tried a few things but the Isonoes win so far.

  2. #32
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,462
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

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    Yep for me Isonoes rule, *but* the 18 levels of Mana supports the Isonoes sit on (and hence also the 1210) makes, erm, just a little bit of difference to overall isolation!

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  3. #33
    Join Date: Mar 2010

    Location: London

    Posts: 2,094
    I'm colin.

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    This thread is making me think i should do something about the top shelf of my quadraspire music works rack. The guitar shape perspex shelf which my deck sits on buckles and creaks so much on its little pegs it cant be good support. I think i might look into buying a suniko vent shelf to replace it. I guess it will fix straight on with out much problem.

  4. #34
    Join Date: Mar 2009

    Location: Elland

    Posts: 6,922
    I'm David.

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    I have been wondering about the same thing colin
    dies anyone have any thoughts about the suitability of wibbly wobbly quadraspire q4 ref with Acrylic shelves suporting a techie?
    CS Port TAT2 - Benz LPS - Funkfirm Houdini - DS Audio Vinyl Ionizer - CS Port C3EQ - Kondo G70 - Kondo Gakuoh II - Maxonic TW1100 MKII - Isol-8 SubStation Integra

  5. #35
    Join Date: May 2008

    Location: A Strangely Isolated Place in Suffolk with Far Away Trains Passing By...

    Posts: 14,540
    I'm David.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marco View Post
    Yep for me Isonoes rule, *but* the 18 levels of Mana supports the Isonoes sit on (and hence also the 1210) makes, erm, just a little bit of difference to overall isolation!

    Marco.
    Yeah, but if you rap the top glass shelf, does the sound come through the speakers?
    I can't go on and I can't go back, I don't feel so matter of fact,
    I tried and tried to make good sense, What's the good to try it all again?

  6. #36
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: Wrexham, North Wales, UK

    Posts: 110,462
    I'm AudioAl'sArbiterForPISHANTO.

    Default

    No, not in the slightest

    Marco.
    Main System

    Turntable: Heavily-modified Technics SL-1210MK5G [Mike New bearing/ETP platter/Paul Hynes SR7 PSU & regulator mods]. Funk Firm APM Achromat with Nagaoka GL-601 Crystal Record Weight. Isonoe feet & boots. Ortofon RS-212D tonearm with Denon DL-103GL, in a Denon PCL-300 headshell, fitted with Funk Firm Houdini and Kondo SL-115 pure-silver cartridge leads.

    Paul Hynes MC head amp/SR5 PSU. Also modded Lentek head amp and Denon AU-310 SUT.

    Other Cartridges: Nippon Columbia (NOS 1987) Denon DL-103. USA-made Shure SC35C with NOS stylus. Goldring G820 with NOS stylus. Shure M55E with NOS stylus.

    CD Player: Audiocom-modified Sony X-777ES/DAS-R1 DAC.

    Tape Deck: Tandberg TCD 310, fully restored and recalibrated as new by RDE, plus upgraded with heads from the TCD-420a. Also with matching TM4 Norway microphones.

    Preamps: Heavily-modified Croft Charisma-X. Power Amps: Tube Distinctions Copper Amp, fitted with Tungsol KT-150s. Quad 306.

    Cables & Sundries: Mark Grant HDX1 interconnects and digital coaxial cable, plus Mark Grant 6mm UP-LCOFC Van Damme speaker cable. MCRU 'Ultimate' mains leads. Lehmann clone headphone amp with vintage Koss PRO-4AAA headphones.

    Tube Distinctions digital noise filter. VPI HW16.5 record cleaning machine.

    Speakers: Tannoy 15MGs in Lockwood cabinets with modified crossovers. 1967 Celestion Ditton 15.

  7. #37
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: gone

    Posts: 11,510
    I'm gone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSJR View Post
    it loks like spiking the deck (or possibly blac-tacking) to a thick slate slab may be the best way to go.
    Be careful with the blac-tack stuff. It is very strongly sticky.

    I once stood a pair of speakers on a stand with blac-tack in between. When it came to taking the speakers off again, some of the speaker veneer remained behind.
    .

  8. #38
    Join Date: Jan 2008

    Location: gone

    Posts: 11,510
    I'm gone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shuggie View Post
    Hi Jerry

    The large circle of small screws underneath the Technics provides direct access to the alloy chassis, bypassing the rubber. I removed three of these to allow the Stillpoints to contact the exposed chassis points, and I do prefer the results. Would you try the same with the RDC cones (I realise that they'd have to point the other way)?

    Regards etc
    I finally got around to doing something about this yesterday.

    I haven't removed the screws (yet) - simply used the screwheads as the support points for up-ended RDC1 cones ...

    Whoah!! Yep - result! A noticeably clearer and better defined sound. Def worth playing with this.
    When I can be bothered to disconnect the tt and turn it over, I'll take 3 screws out so the cones contact the chassis directly.
    .

  9. #39
    Join Date: Apr 2010

    Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

    Posts: 30

    Default supporting the Sl 1210 & transmitting energy

    I recently bought again a Technics turntable with the Kab power supply.
    I also got the Mike New massive bearing.

    This time I wanted to make sure all the energy from the Technics was properly transmitted. My main goal was to mate the top plinth to the middle piece and the rubber base to a proper base (and not from its original feet like the first time).

    All this resonance from the middle heavy plastic, I wanted to cancel it and have a proper transmission of energy.
    So, under Mike’s bearing, I put a dab of strip & seal removable silicone, mating the bottom of the bearing to the bottom of the resonant aluminum plinth.

    Then I added some regular black silicone to the top of the heavy plastic (whatever it is..), covered it with saran wrap so it would not glue itself to the belly of the aluminium plinth but nevertheless intimately mate with it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #40
    Join Date: Apr 2010

    Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

    Posts: 30

    Default Added silicone to dampen vibrations to the top plinth

    Before I put on the rubber base, I took to adding here and there amounts of peel & strip silicone where the heavy plastic meet the aluminium under side and also around the inside of the OL arm board (for the modded Rega 250 fitted). This peel & strip silicone come off real easy – so its easy to experiment.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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