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Hi all,
Mike New tells me I'm the first to take advantage of the current offer for his Technics deck replacement bearing. 1 down and 19 to go!
When nineteen others of us plunk down a deposit, Mike will discount the purchase price from A$625 to A$500. At that price, this upgrade just went from my wish list to my Paypal account. How about you? BTW, I'm not on the payroll. Spread the word.
Best,
Mike
PS Marco, please don't delete this post!
BUMP.
As an owner, user and "believer", I just had to. That's a great price for what you will get in return.
Seconded, the Mike New bearing is a superb upgrade for the Technics, transforming it into a very serious playback machine.
Martin, are you in a position to say definitely that the MNB made a big difference? In other words is it a mod you did in isolation and not combined with other upgrades at the same time?
Many thanks
David - yes I did it in isolation and the whole structure of the sound changed for the better. More bass depth and tighter definition, wider soundstage, greater detail, greater dynamics. Everything changed, more so than with any other upgrade.
David, I'm going to jump in here. I did the Mike New bearing upgrade FIRST... big time improvement; next was a TimeStep HE PSU (mocked here on AoS but it is good for the brand new price I paid for viz:£399.00p at the time).. it performs well, at least mine does! Next Isonoe feet (but since abandon for Origin Live rubber feet and footpads, I then placed this on a Max Townshend Seismic sink, this combo, for me, beats the Isonoes, Mike New uses the rubber feet and a DIY seismic sink (sandstone slabs with a part inflated bike tyre). My last up grade was the installation of a Mark New bearing base plate, gasket bonding plus nuts and self locking flanged bolts and then I went and bought Marco's MN platter. This whole bundle has replaced a recently rebuilt and modded Linn Sondek LP12, Lingo PSU etc... both used the same modded Linn Ekos and AT0C9II. My tech was bought brand new four years ago as a second turntable for my little home office/cubby hole... my Linn Sondek LP12 now does that duty (demoted sadly but I still love it :)) and my Tekko does the bizz in my main system.Quote:
Originally Posted by indus
My final frontier is a possible upgrade of PSU but I'm patiently waiting for the outcome of Neil's shootout, rather then jump in with a Paul Hynes effort, no disrespect here.... I'm in no hurry for the last bit because as it stands my TT is making the type of music, in a way I like and I could happily see my days out with this TT as is.
I have not heard every and each turntable combo in the world but have heard alot of the well known market brands and I would say my Tekko, as it stands, is first at the finishing tape by a healthy margin. It is not a turntable for everyone, and will cost you alot of investment bucks and time to get it to this penthouse floor level but ONLY if you're not into an over emphasized bloated or coloured sound.
I've seen you ask alot of questions and that is a very good thing but time has come for you to find out what we are talking about and go listen if thats poss?
All the very best in your quest mate,
Ron:)
PS Note: each of my upgrades, above, were done one at a time and in isolation. I'm a patient, plodding codger and know what I want and am prepared to take my time thats why I chew my food slowly and carefully before I swallow and that leaves me last at the table, but who cares, I can have that extra glass of vino, no ?:lol:
If you are serious about getting the best out your Techie and the way it plays the music then the Mike New bearing is a very important componant part within that - no doubt. Coupled with other mods as mentioned above, feet, good cartidge, decent external psu etc, it really contributes to making the Techie sound like a non dj deck and an audiophile one to be taken very seriously ;)
Thanks guys.
Yes I do ask a lot of questions and have acted on some of the advice already. So you guys aren't wasting your time I promise.
I already have the iso feet, funk mat and a jelco 750 waiting to be fitted. I also am booked in for a vantage audio psu.
The question in my mind was whether to go for the uprated va bearing £80 or spend the extra and go for the mnb. (£315)
Given that you guys say the mnb is vital to get the tech really singing I think I'll go for it. I'm sure the va bearing upgrade is good as well but for the sake of £200 I don't want to be wondering if it is better.
Thanks again!
Richard is a top guy and does some really good stuf. Not seen, heard, or held his bearing so someone who has might want to comment. All I can say is that is ALL seem to be agrred that the Mike New is one heck of a bearing in terms of what it adds to the music or making the Techie sound right. It is also one SOLID, heavy and well engineered bearing indeed - trust me on that. (Makes the stock Techie bearing feel like a light weight toy). On the other hand, If the Mike New drops on your foot then heaven help you :eek: :lol:
Thanks Rob.
There a couple of members with va bearings including Chris (? panteng) and they seem very happy with it. And Richard's reputation as an honest gentleman is without doubt.
But it seems the mnb is something a little more special!
David, the Mike New bearing is the ONLY ONE that is completely built from the ground up and DOES NOT USE the stock Technics' bearing as a donor housing which the others do... go to Mike N's webpage and he will give you full info. If at a later date you go for a heavier platter, such as Mike's, then his bearing is mandatory. The others have either bonded copper plate to the exisiting Tech platter or just plonked an Oyaide mat on. The two latter mentioned options do make performance better but the likes of Marco, Martin T and REXTON (Andy) have taken it to its pinnical and I'm practically there myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by indus
Money, as always, plays a big part in this as I learnt upgrading my Linn Sondek LP12 over a lengthy period of time, both of these TTs allow you to take one step at a time, sit back and evaluate and to see if you want to take it further... I've reached the point where I'm going to give this alot of consideration :hmm:
Ron
Some time ago I compared the Mike New Technics bearing with the Timestep bearing and the standard bearing on my Technics SL1200. Believe me when I say that the Mike New Technics bearing absolutely blows the others away. The increase in sound quality is, without doubt, ONLY achieved, in my experience, with the Mike New bearing. I do not have any experience with any other bearings available.
John :)
Thanks.
I have a feeling I'm going to be £300 lighter come Monday!
Is this something somebody with zero diy skills like me could fit?
Not zero, but if you're a bloke then surely you can wield tools? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by indus
Its not difficult,BUT DO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY (!!!!), especially the bit about trimming 18 protruding wires from underneath the PCB (printed circuit board) located near the base of the bearing as these have the potential to short circuit if they come into contact with other metal bits... this sounds worst than what I have written but armed with the appropriate cutters its as easy as trimming your toe nails :eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by indus
If you are NOT going to add/fit the MN bearing base plate at this stage then there is no need to file down the THREE self tapping raised screw housings for the bearing, in fact you take the old one out, youz drop the new MN one in type procedure.
When you order your bearing ask Mike for very clear instructions, he's an obliging bloke.
Finally, if you can change a car tyre wheel you can do this job, just think it through first and make sure your work bench etc is clear of unrelated junk!
Remember, that all of us who have gone before started from scratch knowhow.... go for it my son ;)
Ron
Thanks Ron.
When you say 18 wires need to be 'trimmed' do you mean desoldered, cut shorter and then resoldered?
Cheers
No, just snipped shorter so that they are not proud of the circuit board.
Martin, this may sound really stupid but if you snip wires then these wires must have to be reconnected once they have been cut? How is that done?
Thanks
Hi David, I think what Martin is referring to are component leads that are longer than they actually need to be. These will have been placed in the board from the top & then soldered into position, however, it sounds like these just need a slight trim to take off the excess protruding lead that may foul the baseplate ;)
You'll just be cutting off excess component lead that isn't needed for any purpose :)
Hi David, Everyone refers to these as wires which threw me when I received mine. Basically these are sharp I would call solder bits that just need a snip as close to the pcb they are attached to as you can thats all.Quote:
Originally Posted by indus
Yep, Mark and Robert have answered it. These are just excess wire lengths that can foul the bearing and short circuit.
hey folks,
I became the 5th person to put an order for the bearing....
what better way to secure a essential upgrade...jump on in folks !
cheers....
I'll be putting an order in as well! Very excited about this upgrade. It will :really show me whether all the hype about how much the tech can be improved is true or not.:eyebrows:
How much of a deposit do you have to lay down?
What your avy is holding in the left hand looks like a good one :rfl:Quote:
Originally Posted by kininigin
Just kidding....
Attachment 6770
Doesn't it indeed! :eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by Reid Malenfant
Anyone know?Quote:
Originally Posted by kininigin
Guess i'll have to ask the main man myself then :lol:
Hi David,
Yes, the very special characteristic of my High Precision Bearing is that is was designed, machined and manufactured from the ground up. There are no existing parts in the bearing which would compromise it's very high performance.
I am taking deposits of A$250.00 for my bearings by PayPal mhnew@bigpond.net.au
The total price is A$500.00 Inc postage.
I will commence manufacture of the next batch of 25 when I get 20 deposits.
Mike,
I will jump in on this next week (when I've been paid!)
Cheers,
Stephen.
Hi Steve
look forward to your commitment we just need a few more to make it happen.
You can count me in as well,need a couple of weeks,only just started work again :D
Done & sorted.
Look forward to news on progress :-)
cheers,
Steve.
I'll get it done as soon as I get home.
Mike, installed your MN bearing a long time ago on Sunday 9th January 2011 and its still going great, probably due for a lube again... how often should this be done do you reckon? The notes I made at the time of installation reads, 'straight forward but a bit fiddly', but I've come along way since then :) Could you please confirm on here that the way I secured my MN bearing to the MN base plate, viz: additional threaded screws (three) upwards through base plate and thence into under base flange of MN bearing precludes the whole assembly from being ARALDITED to the body structure of the Tekko. It appears that I have confused some people on this forum?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_New
Thanks mate
Ron.
PS beaut sunshine here in the old country, 28C in my backyard, and the wife decides to defrost the fridge/freezer so I'm forced to down the stock of coldies or find the Esky (the old metal type I brought over with me with the bottle opener on the side, okay, I know you have screw tops now as I found out on my last visit :lol:)
Hi JazzBones,
Firstly the Bearing lubrication:-
The bearing is fitted with a precision honed sintered and vacuum lubricated bearing sleeve. It really does not require much extra lubrication.
Every 6-8 months add three drops of the bearing oil to the top lip of the bearing.
The Bearing Base Plate:--
When I first developed this upgrade, it was designed to be held to the alluminium chassis by five 5mm bolts. (Pete in the US was the first person to suggest this option) This obviously allowed that the bolts could be removed at a later date and the Base plate (and bearing) removed.
The Bearing is held to the Base Plate by three 4mm bolts, which were placed into the Base Plate from underneath and threaded into the Bearing.
So the Base Plate would have to be removed before the Bearing could be un-bolted from it.
However a number of people rightly observed that there was a lot of work and dis-mantleling of the SL1200 in order to fit the base plate using bolts. So I came up with the idea of using Aradite Epoxy resin (the new extra strength) to permanently secure the Base Plate to the bottom of the chassis. This seems to have been accepted by all those who have done it this way, as being much easier and straight forward. It also has the positive advantage that it does not distort the thin chassis by the tightening of the bolts, in the event that the bottom of it is not completely flat.
However there is a caveat to this method!! Once the Base Plate is secured to the chassis it cannot be removed. Therefore, in order to allow the Bearing to be removed separately, the Base Plate is threaded 4mm and the three bolts are now placed through the Bearing from the top and tightened into the Base plate. This allows the independent removal of the bearing.
It should be noted that the Bearing and Coil assembly are secured to the Base Plate by three tensile bolts supplied with the Base Plates. This allows for far tighter clamping of the assembly.
The extra three 4mm bolts which independently secure the bearing to the Base Plate provide an additional level of rigidity to the system for those who wish to include them.
The next batch of Bearings to be manufactured will now include the additional three counter-sunk bolt holes, although this adds to the cost of manufacture.
Hi Mike. What oil do you recommend for this occasional top up? I bought my bearing from your erstwhile UK agent and it came with a little bottle of oil, your site mentions you use a thin synthetic oil and this stuff doesnt look all that thin.
Hi Russell
The oil should be about the viscosity of general purpose light houshold oil, or that used on sowing machines.
Ok thanks Mike that's definitely thinner than what I have. Any particular brands I could buy in the UK or that you'd recommend to get hold of on import or do I not need to be too particular?
You do not need to be too particular.
I can send you 10mil but the postage alone does not make it very economical.
No problem, thanks for info :)
Just a quick bump for this to remind any that thought about it?
And another bump. Here's hoping things are moving along.
Hi Mike,
The orders/deposits are coming in slowly. I now have six
I get a lot of emails expressing interest and asking how long will it take but a lot do not follow up. If everyone who really wants to take advantage of this offer were to make a decision now they would get their Bearing in about 5 weeks.
The problem I think is that everyone is waiting to be the last one of the twenty. Which of course is not exactly going to work!!!!
I'm just waiting for work to pick up myself,otherwise i would of followed up my enquirys :)
Yes in the economic times a lot of people are not finding it easy to locate spare cash.
Mike,
I just sent you an email from your site's contact form page.
Best,
Mike
Bump :)