CS4397 dac

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12-04-2009, 23:18
iihay

Quote:

Originally Posted by leo

you got a bad track ,joint or resistor I reckon

Look at the voltage reading of the differential out of the dac , + is 1.4v, - is 1.4v
Differential to line out this should give 0v

A clue, whats the DC offset out of that dodgy channel? you got one half missing;)

Don't go making yourself into a bloater with all that choccy :lol:

Got to find it without breaking anymore pads, fun starts here I guess! So I should start looking on the knackered side. What's the best method here, pull up the schematic and compare points from the good side (as a reference) to the bad until I hit a difference?

Cheers

Iain

p.s. stopped with the choc and hit the single malt!
12-04-2009, 23:27
leo

Quote:

Originally Posted by iihay

Got to find it without breaking anymore pads, fun starts here I guess! So I should start looking on the knackered side. What's the best method here, pull up the schematic and compare points from the good side (as a reference) to the bad until I hit a difference?

Cheers

Iain

Yes, I'd imagine if the DC offset is +1.4v it'll be the -1.4v side , I'm also supping so my brains not fully functional:o

Quote:

Originally Posted by iihay

p.s. stopped with the choc and hit the single malt!

Good choice:cool:
12-04-2009, 23:35
iihay

lol, I know the feeling. I can't work out which side is which now, it can wait as I'm not minded to burn or fry myself tonight!

Iain
04-05-2009, 13:09
lionking

1 Attachment(s)

Hello every one

that kit needs 12v transformer to work?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/High-Grade-24b...742.m153.l1262

Whats the best amount of VA to a transformer for this kit?

I am thiking of buying it and that transformer doesnt look
very nice!

Attachment 362

Thanks
04-05-2009, 19:16
leo

Those plastic encased transformers can suffer from mechanical buzzing which could prove to be annoying
You don't need huge current for this sort of application, some will argue larger VA is best and others will say its wasting money

When playing with this dac I used a 60vA toroidal because its what I had spare
04-05-2009, 19:51
Tripmaster

Hi Leo

This DAC has been getting a great write up over on DIYA. Have you ever tried using one of those transformers?

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...hreadid=137976
04-05-2009, 20:46
leo

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tripmaster

Hi Leo

This DAC has been getting a great write up over on DIYA. Have you ever tried using one of those transformers?

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...hreadid=137976

I can believe it getting quite a lot of attention, their cheap and sound pretty good once a few issues on the standard thing have been sorted out

I've not tried the transformers, tbh my objective with this dac was to keep it as a cheap project with decent performance
04-05-2009, 21:04
leo

Of course thats not to say don't try transformers:eyebrows: I tend to try as many projects as I can and post results/opinions
Start cheap and folks can go further if they like
12-05-2009, 18:07
mace

Hello,

My name is Ivo and I registered here just for this thread.

I was browsing that lampizator site and I stumbled across the DAC, I was intrigued and I had to order one. So I did. Googling brought me here.

Now I've had it for a couple of days and I've been modding it as per the standard stuff, I changed the opamp for a LM4562, I changed the PLL parts, I changed some of the caps for OS-CON, I kinda like the sound of those, and some for generic Low-ESR. I removed the coupling caps and I'm about to change the caps + resistors around the opamp to see if I can't get the offset voltage down.

I tried 0,22 uF wima bypass caps on some of those SMD ceramics, but it completely killed the sound, it became muddy and cluttered. I've since removed them and the awesome clarity is back.

I've got some Vishay/Roedenstein 0,1uF in the mail (the big-ish blue box caps) and I'm gonna see if those improve the sound any.

Well, nothing to add really, just wanted to say that I love this little gem of a DAC and I love the people here for all the information they've created.
12-05-2009, 21:56
alb

Quote:

I've got some Vishay/Roedenstein 0,1uF in the mail

Mace.
If you have ordered Vishay/ERO MKP1837 0.1uf, then make sure you put one in place of C9 (input). These were the best caps- in my opinion- for the job. I tested quite a few.
I found this to be the greatest single improvement, while i was upgrading.
Its tempting to replace and bypass loads of caps all at the same time. But not so easy to go back if you don't like the effect.

http://www.picstation.net/image-98E6_4A09F59E.jpg
13-05-2009, 11:09
mace

Quote:

Originally Posted by alb

Mace.
If you have ordered Vishay/ERO MKP1837 0.1uf, then make sure you put one in place of C9 (input). These were the best caps- in my opinion- for the job. I tested quite a few.
I found this to be the greatest single improvement, while i was upgrading.

Yup, those are the ones, the box-types.

Did you replace or bypass C9?

Quote:

Its tempting to replace and bypass loads of caps all at the same time. But not so easy to go back if you don't like the effect.

Yeah it's true, I tried the Wima's on a bunch of those SMD caps (0604?), but I did not like the effect.

I have a 0,5mm tip on my iron and a steady hand, so removal was easy and non-destructive.

I'm expecting the caps by the end of the week, I'll post here about the effects.
13-05-2009, 16:47
alb

Mace.

I left C9 in place while i was testing different bypass caps. This meant i had something to use as a reference. The best sounding bypass cap also turned out to be the best replacement for C9, which is no longer there.
Using the wrong cap here can really screw up the sound. Regardless of how many bypass caps are fitted further down the line.
If you find something that you think sounds better than the Vishay, let me know.
29-05-2009, 10:21
samoloko

one very big upgrade would be using audio transformer as a output stage
more Info at diyaudio
Leo have you tried It
29-05-2009, 14:21
leo

Quote:

Originally Posted by samoloko

one very big upgrade would be using audio transformer as a output stage
more Info at diyaudio
Leo have you tried It

Hi,

No not yet, I've been putting it off tbh for a while but it seems those who have tried them did like the results so its something I'll have to try out later to satisfy curiousity :)
01-06-2009, 16:16
leo

A list of mods have been added to page1 to make it easier (list kindly done by member Raptor) , any further mods will probably be added there too
01-06-2009, 16:34
mace

Quote:

Originally Posted by leo

A list of mods have been added to page1 to make it easier (list kindly done by member Raptor) , any further mods will probably be added there too

That's awesome!

I have a quick question. It says R28 and R29 should be empty, but mine are populated, should I remove them?
06-06-2009, 17:11
mace

Quote:

Originally Posted by mace

That's awesome!

I have a quick question. It says R28 and R29 should be empty, but mine are populated, should I remove them?

Anyone? :please:
07-06-2009, 12:26
leo

Quote:

Originally Posted by mace

Anyone? :please:

I think those resistors go from output to ground (going from memory), if you use coupling caps after those I'd just remove them
07-06-2009, 19:21
mace

Quote:

Originally Posted by leo

I think those resistors go from output to ground (going from memory), if you use coupling caps after those I'd just remove them

Ok thanks.

I have K42-Y2 1uF PIO's in there, but no resistors in series with the output.
Then again I'm using a 4562 and not that AD you're using. :)
14-06-2009, 15:17
nika

hi guys,

how 's everybody doing?
i was trying to mod the the dac with some cap upgrade but have accidentally lifted a pad....being a relative newbie! the lifted pad is c19 ( positive side of the cap)which is before the 3.3v regulator.

1. where do i tap the positive side of the cap which is connected to the +5v supply? i tried connecting it straight to the +5v supply but the regulator gets too hot and the led does not light up.

please help! thank you

nika
16-06-2009, 22:39
leo

I don't have the dac here at the moment but will have a look when I get it back
17-06-2009, 12:14
nika

thanks leo,

i can't wait to fix it.
22-06-2009, 08:11
nika

hey fellas,

is there anybody interested in selling their unused cs4397 dac? i need one for my bedroom system.....i just need the dac board...

thanks
23-08-2009, 14:23
Atum

Can anybody help me, I have lifted the pads of C19. What should I do? Thanks in advance...
23-08-2009, 22:09
Mr Magoo

The power for the digital bits goes through the C19, the positive enters the AMS117 thingy on its right hand leg( as viewed from top). So what I did, having wrecked the same pad was this:

Soldered poitive leg of cap to input leg of AMS117, and connected that by a wire to the +6V. So the positive is now sorted.

Took a wire from the ground to the negative leg of the cap, and then a connected another wire to the ground side of C21.

The +6V and G are clearly marked on the PCB, I soldered the connections on the underside of the board. A tip here is that the cap is mounted firmly by only one leg, so use wire that is stiff enough to hold it in place.

I turned the thing on and nothing went bang or pfft and the LED came on.

I've found dealing with SMD pads and tiny work areas a real pain, so may get the larger version with through-hole parts.

You might want to get the PDF file for the CS4396 and CS4397 evaluation board
http://www.cirrus.com/en/pubs/rdData...db4396-1B1.pdf
24-08-2009, 17:02
Atum

Thanks for help Mr. Magoo. I gave up to work with this tiny fragile Chinese Dac board :steam:.
22-09-2009, 07:09
Mazeppa

Many thanks to the contributors in this thread. The CS4397 DAC is my first attempt at a standalone DAC, and I've implemented a few of the mods detailed herein to what I think is very good effect. I've gotten spoiled on the quality of sound this little gem can produce.

I have a question regarding the Toslink socket. I'd like to get it off the board to make room for a possibly hair brained scheme to stack 2 CS4397s in a "Double DAC" for mounting in as small an enclosure as can be managed. Besides that, I'm not likely to ever need it and the thing seems to get in the way too often.

So, can the Toslink socket be simply removed, or does the circuit need to be terminated in some way if the socket has been pulled?
22-09-2009, 07:54
alb

You can just desolder the socket.
I did it to make more room to work, especially when playing around with input caps.
23-09-2009, 01:03
Mazeppa

Grazie. My CS4397s will soon be Toslink-less..
06-10-2009, 08:56
manina

electrolites to be replaced

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/9773/cs4397.jpg

I read all the post of this tread however I have not found any changes for the electrolites circled in red.

Shall I replace with better quality or better quality and bigger size?
07-10-2009, 00:05
leo

Going by memory those larger 100uf caps are for the op-amp decoupling, feel free to change them
16-10-2009, 14:15
JoshR

Any one manage to successfully input I2S directly to this DAC board?
I have input the appropriate leads from an I2S output in place and (I think) configured the chip for I2S input. Nothing. I really don't know that much about this so any thoughts would be helpful. The I2S board is the one from twisted pear.
The mistake i know i made was not to check the DAC board for operation before any mods (D'oh) and I did have to repair a bent and mis-soldered pin on the chip so maybe it is a board failure, but thought I would ask before I return the board to pre-mod configuration and see if it works at all. Thanks.
17-10-2009, 10:29
TJF

@ leo

Hi,

I read your Buffalo thread and so I am interested in your statement: Does this CS4397 DAC reach your Buffalo Mod?

Regards
Thomas
17-10-2009, 14:12
leo

Quote:

Originally Posted by TJF

@ leo

Hi,

I read your Buffalo thread and so I am interested in your statement: Does this CS4397 DAC reach your Buffalo Mod?

Regards
Thomas

Hi Thomas,

No,imo its not as good as the modified Buffalo but not many other diy dacs I've tried so far are either :)

The CS4397 is capable of very good performance though with some work and has the advantage of being cheap
01-12-2009, 13:35
acccruz

1 Attachment(s)

Hi to all members:

Anybody can help me please with this DAC Kit I´ve recently buyed at eBay.

After some searchs and readings, I decided to do some mods and now it did not work. The blue LED light up, that indicate it´s on, but no sound out :-/

Many thanks in advance for your help.
01-12-2009, 14:08
Puffin

You will need to read this whole thread as there are lots about problems created when modifying these boards.

It starts around here :-

http://www.theartofsound.net/forum/s...?t=315&page=18
01-12-2009, 15:01
Tripmaster

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puffin

You will need to read this whole thread as there are lots about problems created when modifying these boards.

It starts around here :-

http://www.theartofsound.net/forum/s...?t=315&page=18

Thanks for the reminder, I was trying to forget about this! :(
01-12-2009, 15:38
Puffin

I wasn't going to "name names" but as you have identified yourself......:lol:
01-12-2009, 16:31
Tripmaster

Quote:

Originally Posted by Puffin

I wasn't going to "name names" but as you have identified yourself......:lol:

My face says it all!
07-12-2009, 09:26
audio1st

2 Attachment(s)

But you did persevere and get it working..;)

:scratch:But Richard, I am confused with your transformer wiring though, did it come with pigeon English instructions, how is it working?
Your primaries are out of phase with each other and so secondaries have had to be wired out of phase as well. I would have thought your "light bulb tester" would have protested?
The norm is; L-1, N-4, link 2-3. and white-8,white-5 and black-6,7. Apologies if I have it wrong.:doh:
As an observation, it could have been easier to bypass the output caps and the "mute chip" with links under the board. Just remove the output caps and add new ones between board and phonos.
Barry,
07-12-2009, 13:54
Tripmaster

Hi Barry

The transformer came pre-soldered that way. I wasn't using a light bulb tester back then so I'm not sure if would have protested. Unfortunately the solder pads were so far gone the dac eventually packed up. I have considered getting another but I've been dabbling with various projects since and its always been put on the back burner.

I see you have been working on some new CD enclosure designs, looking good as ever!

http://theartofsound.net/forum/album.php?albumid=8
28-12-2009, 17:25
robertor

hi everybody,
this is my first post here and sorry for my bad english.
i have some problem with the lampucera DAC.
the optical toslink work fine but the coax seems dead.
no music but only rustling.:(
there is also a strong lowering of the light of the red led.
maybe the lampucera has passed in R.I.P.(Requiescat in pace = Rest in Peace)?
thanks for your help.
28-12-2009, 17:53
Makgajwer

R.I.P. = Rust In Pieces

:lol:
28-12-2009, 18:15
leo

Hi Roberta, the RCA fitted for the input spdif on these dacs are extremely poor, I had problems with the ones I was modding, yours may be ok but I'd try replacing it just incase

The ones I modded did not have any led, I presume the led is the locking indicator for the CS8416
28-12-2009, 18:33
robertor

thanks for the very fast reply.
i have modified the lampucera following the fikus project.
i have never used the coax imput until 5 or 6 day ago because my cd player was unprovided of the digital output and the lampucera was connected by optical to my MacPro.
now i have the cd player with the coax out and the lampucera don't work:steam:.
thanks for suggest and i try to change the input connector.
very interesting the removal of output elko replaced with the film condensator close the output connectors.

p.s. for Leo: my name is roberto.
28-12-2009, 19:40
lionking

1 cs 4397 per chanel

Hi everyone!

Anybody tried one cs4397 per chanel?

With two chinese cs4397 boards is it possible?

Thanks
28-12-2009, 21:53
Bodran

Problem with channel imbalance.

Need some basic help. First let me state that my background is in mechanical engineering rather than electrical but I do like a challenge.
So far I’m using this dac stock with the supplied power supply. I was happy that it worked at all after I hooked it up. First problem I noticed was it is louder in one channel and I have to use the balance control on my preamp (lucky I even have one). So I have been looking here for a solution.
Could the different values of R8, 9, 14 & 17 cause this?
Later on I read about that someone had a bad voltage regulator, I figured that is easy to check so I did and the +5 volts is +5.1v the +12v is +11.81 but the -12v is -16.44v. Looks like a problem on the -12v to me but is it causing the channel imbalance? I measured at the first power supply connector relative to the AG pin.
Regards.
28-12-2009, 23:44
Rare Bird

Hi Alan ;)

What are you using the DAC for Computer?
29-12-2009, 00:01
Bodran

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andre

Hi Alan ;)

What are you using the DAC for Computer?

Andre,
It's basically an experiment to see if you can cobble together these ebay parts into a usable audio component. Also to compare a modern DAC to the one in my Meridian 207 (TDA1541).
29-12-2009, 00:17
Rare Bird

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bodran

Andre,
It's basically an experiment to see if you can cobble together these ebay parts into a usable audio component. Also to compare a modern DAC to the one in my Meridian 207 (TDA1541).

Alan:
If it's compooter use & just a trial why not use the onboard balance control on your media player compensate..

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