Playing it tonight and I swear it's still getting better!
Printable View
Playing it tonight and I swear it's still getting better!
That will be the burn in Martin..:eyebrows:
Indeed, Paul only hinted at how much those min-regs would need.
Hi Martin,
Just to let you that I tried your earth wire idea, and you're not deaf - it is better! :)
In my set-up, however, it's not really about reducing hum (apart from the tiny bit I had, as described, lifting the tonearm on and off its rest, which has now gone), but eliminating an underlying 'hash' which superimposes itself on the music, and that one doesn't know is there, until running an earth wire from the PCB to the earth post on the preamp/phono stage, as you outlined.
Doing this results in substantially lowering the noisefloor, which is especially noticeable when listening through headphones, where any playback noise is immediately obvious. What adding the earth wire does is create 'blacker silences' between tracks, and when music is playing, vocals are projected more clearly, due to said reduced noise, giving them more presence and realism. Detail retrieval on all material is also notably increased.
The positive benefits of this little tweak make it very worthwhile doing, and I would thoroughly recommend it to all Techy users, not just those with ebony armboards - nice one, Martin! :cool:
Marco.
Nice one, Marco. Good earthing affects sound quality in many different ways.
However, the second earth wire trick will not work with metal arrmboards - you will get an earth loop and more hum! It's only because ebony is an insulator that a separate earth path for arm and turntable is required.
Yup, hadn't thought of that, although perhaps it might depend on the earthing arrangement of the partnering PSU, preamp/phono stage and system?
If not, well it's now even more reason to get an ebony armboard! :)
Marco.
Paul,
Do the prices you gave me a little time back for the Internal regs still stand, and does this include all three stages?
Charles,
The prices still stand, as they are my normal price for each module. Do not forget to allow yourself the AoS member discount of 10%. This applies to all items I offer for the SL1200/SL1210 upgrades.
The lead time for the modules and cables is approx 36 working days at present as I am running behind schedule after work schedule delays caused by December’s bad weather damage to the local grid and the kind person who gave me their Flue-like virus in the New Year. I am hoping to reduce this lead time down to the more normal level of around 25 working days over the next month.
Thanks Paul,
Will be in contact very soon.
BTW, any news on my SR7?
Martin,
I have been thinking of upgrading my wiring from DIY Hynes SR5 PSU to the turntable. What gauge wiring are you using in your setup. I was thinking 16ga would be sufficient but not sure.
I have decided to use an XLR connector on the PSU end, I was wondering if using a shielded signal cable like the mogami quad mic cable would be appropriate for the powersupply cable? I see you use a loose braid unshielded.
I wonder if someone can elucidate me on the pros and cons of such an approach for the technics off-board PSU DC supply cable.
Cheers,
Pete
You mean that you guys weren't connecting the chassis earth point up to the arm earth?????
Not when a metal armboard is used on the Technics - that provides the arm earth to the turntable. Not ideal, but avoids a loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by DSJR
The insulated arm board and two earths back to the preamp scheme sounds better to my ears.
Ditto! :)
Marco.
Hi Pete,
Just in case you're interested, I have a very nice Furutech CF60 XLR plug available for sale.Quote:
I have decided to use an XLR connector on the PSU end, I was wondering if using a shielded signal cable like the mogami quad mic cable would be appropriate for the powersupply cable? I see you use a loose braid unshielded.
It's the male version of the one shown below, and unquestionably the finest XLR plug I've used (actually, I'd say that it's arguably the best that has ever been made):
http://www.analogueseduction.net/pro...nnector_CF602R
The only reason I'm selling it is because since installing Paul's SR7 EHD, I've used the lead and connector he supplied with it.
If you're interested in the CF60, PM me and I'll give you an offer you can't refuse! ;)
Marco.
Thanks for the offer Marco.
I've got a silver neutrik xlr pair I am going to use that I just dug up out of my parts bin.
Cheers
Pete
No worries, dude - enjoy :cool:
Marco.
You have all convinced me I have ordered a set of PS mudules from Paul
Expect to get them some time in March, he is a busy cherub.
Yes, and I’ve ordered a boring and boring buse plot from Mike. :lol:
Wow! That totally did not translate into American :scratch:Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Hynes
Hi Pete,
They are funny people in the Islands, it's all those sheep!!
Don't tell anyone else, but I don't have a clue either!
Nope. I've parsed this two dozen times and still don't understand it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Hynes
Me neither, and I'm a half-Scottish daftee! :scratch: :eyebrows:
Marco.
Don't you mean girlfriends? :eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_New
No, more like brothers and sisters! :lol:
;)
Marco.
Looks like my attempt at humour fell at the first hurdle. :)
I take it you did not notice Mike’s spelling error in the post 217 before my post 218. :doh:
The first one to work this out :scratch: gets an SR3-21 SL1200 power supply as a prize. :champagne:
This puzzle is open to any none-trade member of the AoS Forum on the planet except Marco, as he does not need an SR3-21. ;)
I sent Marco a series 2 SR3-21 to try a while back and he either has, or is, sending it to Neil (DSDL) for part of a power supply assessment for the SL1200. Once Neil has finished with this SR3-21 I will pay for it to be shipped to the prize winner. :D
That'll be the modules spelling mistake then?
Ah - got it! :lol:
P.S. how about an SR7-27 then? :eyebrows:
Hi Paul,
Nice one - that's a very generous offer! Neil's defo got the SR3-21. PM him to confirm and make the necessary arrangements :)Quote:
I sent Marco a series 2 SR3-21 to try a while back and he either has, or is, sending it to Neil (DSDL) for part of a power supply assessment for the SL1200. Once Neil has finished with this SR3-21 I will pay for it to be shipped to the prize winner. :D
Marco.
Well done Mark, mudules - non, modules -oui ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingdong
Well done Mark, mudules - non, modules - oui ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingdong
Ok, Paul told me to post it publicly: Bearing and Bearing Base Plate.
:lol:
Hmm I can see a potential conflict arising here. Looking back at my post 218 it may appear that I was looking for someone to highlight Mike’s spelling mistake in which case Mark (Dingdong) would be the winner. However I was looking for someone to unravel the bearing misspelling which places Martin as the winner. He actually PM’d me with his answer so I told him to post on the tread to register his effort.
I think the fairest way to do this is to give the SR3 to Mark and give Martin the current equivalent value of the Series 2 SR3, which is £180 as a discount on an SR7 he is lusting after. :)
Hi Marco,
Just something to liven up the day for someone. I will PM Neil later when I get a break.
Ooh, cheers Paul and very generous of you. I think I'll be placing an order for an SR7-27 with you soonly :)
I'm thinking of becoming a games show host
There is always someone after your job. :)
That's incredibly generous of you Paul. I realised there may have been some confusion after Martin posted. I'd have got that answer anyway;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Hynes
Hi Mark,
The confusion was my fault as I should have been more precise about the requirements to win the power supply.
Neil needs the SR3 for a while for his power supply comparisons, so I have placed your prize power supply in the build schedule, then you will not have to wait too long for it and Neil can continue without rushing things. Current lead time for the SR3 is in the region of 25 to 30 working days. I should be able to ship to you mid March. PM me your shipping address so I can get my office lass dealing with the paperwork.
Regards
Paul
pm'd
Right, thats my money sent off! I should be getting these in the next 30 days or so. Cant wait!!:cool::cool::cool::cool:
This has been a while coming but I wanted to be sure the instructions were clear and accurate before posting the upgrade information.
I have revised the upgrade application instructions after feedback from Martin T and Anthony TD who have both applied the upgrade to SL1210 decks. Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. I have upgraded another SL1210 this last week, using these instructions, to verify that they are correct. If you decide to apply this upgrade yourself it is your responsibility to follow the instructions carefully. If you have any questions that need clarification, ask for this on this forum thread, so the information may benefit others. If you doubt your ability to apply this upgrade correctly, and safely, find a technically capable person to do it for you. I am looking into the possibility of appointing technically competent agents in key areas of this country, and overseas to provide a fitting service for those who require it.
PHTAP3
Paul Hynes Technics SL1200/SL1210 Application Note 3 (PHTAP3).
Modification of internal power supply regulation.
Modification procedure.
TAP3.1 to TAP3.11 are photographs showing the modification procedure.
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP31.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP32.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP33.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP34.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP35.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP36.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP37.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP38.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...ynes/TAP39.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...nes/TAP310.jpg
http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/w...nes/TAP311.jpg
Remove the Technics mains transformer and power supply board. (TAP3.1) These are now redundant.
Remove the Motor board. (TAP3.1)
Install TDR21 dual regulator board using the transformer mounting screws. (TAP3.2)
Remove the motor board
Remove the following components from the motor board :-
Resistors
R1 – 5K6
R2 – 6K8
R3 – 2K7
R4 – 470R
R5 – 470R
R304 – 560R
Transistors
Q1 – 2SD1265
Q2 – 2SD637
Q3 – 2SD637
Capacitors
C1 – 1,000uf 50V
C2 – 33uf 25V
C5 – 0.022uf
C6 – 0.022uf
Diodes
D1 – Bridge rectifier
D3 – 5v1 Zener diode
D301 – 5V1 Zener diode
Cut pcb track to separate the motor control electronics from the motor drive electronics. (TAP3.3)
Cut pcb track to pin 9 of IC301 (AN 6682). This disconnects IC301 from the 9v4 supply generated by IC201 (AN 6680). (TAP3.5)
Drill a 1mm hole in the now isolated pad next to pin 9 of IC301. (TAP3.5)
Drill a 1mm hole in the pad between IC301 pin 5 and test point G
Drill a 1mm hole in the pad between the junction of C108, C110 and R7. This pad is also connected to pins 19 and 20 of IC101 (AN6675) via a track on the PCB.
TDR21 terminals 1 to 6 are marked on the TDR21 PCB, Z1705, and S1709v4 pin outs are marked on the boards. TDR21 has two 21v regulators on board. The first 21v regulator nearest the 27v input side feeds the control circuitry 21v rail and the two regulators Z1705 and S1709v4. The second 21v regulator furthest away from the 27v input side feeds the motor drive circuitry.
If using Fine Silver wire or annealed copper wire with Teflon insulation it helps to cut and prepare the leads first. The modification requires 1.3 metres of wire if the external power supply lead is wired into the deck or 1.5 metres of wire if a DC inlet connector is fitted to the inlet flange. Fitting a coloured coded rubber sleeve over each end of the Teflon insulation will help with wire identification during assembly. Use red sleeves for positive and black sleeves for 0v wires.
Prepare 2 x 65mm wires for connecting the Z1705 regulator to the motor board in place of D301 zener diode as shown in (TAP3.10). Fit the wires to the motor board and solder.
Prepare 2 x 75mm wires for connecting the S1709v4 regulator to the motor board as shown in (TAP3.9). Fit the wires to the motor board and solder.
Prepare 1 x 240mm wire for 0v and 1 z 300mm wire for +21v to feed the motor drive circuitry as shown in (TAP3.7). Fit the wires to the motor board and solder.
The motor board can now be replaced in the Deck chassis and the various connectors can be refitted.
Fit 12mm stand-offs to Z1705 and S1709v4 and mount them as shown in (TAP3.10) Solder the wires from the motor board as shown in ((TAP3.10).
21v outputs from the first regulator from terminal 4 on TDR21 regulator module. Prepare 1 x 150mm wire for connection to the jumper wire (Marked J on the motor board next to C3), 1 x 140mm wire for connection to Z1705 and 1 x 190mm wire for connection to S1709v4. Solder these wires to the motor board jumper, Z1705 and S1709v4 as shown in ((TAP3.10). Twist the three wires and fit to terminal 4 on TDR21.
21v outputs from the second regulator from terminals 5 and 6 on TDR21 regulator module. The 240mm and 300mm wires that feed the motor drive section are connected to TDR21 with the 240mm 0v wire to terminal 5 and the 300mm 21v wire to terminal 6.
Connect the external 27v power supply to TDR21 input terminals either directly from the power supply DC lead or via an input connector as shown in ((TAP3.11). The DC input 0v wire should be fitted to terminal 2 and the +27v wire to terminal 1.
Thoroughly check all wiring before refitting the platter and applying power to the external power supply.
OH FCUK! WHAT HAVE I LET MYSELF IN FOR :eek::eek: :cool:
Ha Ha, I was just thinking exactly the same - You guys a far braver men than me :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
Andy,
I have already told you that FCUK is not French. :eek:
If you do not feel comfortable fitting the internal regulator upgrades send the deck, sans (that’s French for without) the arm, to me. I can do the modifications for you.
PS. I have Made in Japan and will spin it once I have finished my bearing and platter upgrades.
Regards
Paul
The best live rock album ever!Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Hynes
Bar none.
Paul,Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Hynes
I'm trying to stop swearing hence the usage of fcuk, I suppose I could use fook instead!! :( I want to learn how to do these regs so i'm going to buy a spare 1210 PCB and if I fook (there you go!!!) it up I have a spare. I also fancy having ago at doing that little project I was telling you about over the phone with the spare PCB :eyebrows: Thing is you need to remove so many components that there will be nothing left of the PCB to upgrade which is even better for me. :cool: Anyway, all I can say is that your PSU is getting better and thanks for all your hard work.
Andy
Hi Andy,
If you manage to stop swearing, will you tell me how to do it?
I’m here for any support you need with the internal regulator upgrades.
Regards
Paul
I kinda warned you :rfl:Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
No Problem Andrew, when you have finished just tune for maximum smoke!!Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
You will have no problem with Paul he really knows what he is doing and I'm sure he will be able to hold your hand while you quiver and quake with you soldering iron hovering above the PCB.
Paul
I have been studying your Instructions with some interest as I will need to modify both my PCB and the one for my Lathe cutting friend. and I have one observation which may help those who are not adept at weilding a soldering iron, especially when trying to remove components.
The Resistors R2 & R4 are the only ones connected to the regulated 21V rail which are directly associated with the regulator circuitry which we are removing.
Now if we cut the copper track just below J3 where the regulator Q3 output is connected. This will isolate R2 & R3 from the new regulated supply from your module. We will also need to remove Q3 but this is relatively easy as it is connected to the main PCB with three wires, these wires can even be cut if required.
This will still leave C3 connected across the new supply. The common 0V tracks are track 1 & 3 as veiwed from the top of the PCB
In this way surely people can now leave in the board, all the 21V regulator components down at the bottom LH corner if they wish and opt to cut another track instead. Your image TAD34 shows a nice clean space and this is the way I would do it.
However the option would remove a lot of heartach for the likes of Andrew and others.
Also a word of caution for those people who have fitted my bearing and who will have removed the plastic cover over the coil assembly.
In order to avoid any damage to the coil assembly when working on the board, refit this cover during the work.
If you do not have the cover then use a soft towel to rest the coil assembly on.