Hi all,
Many thanks for the kind words and great to hear the ebony boards are doing the trick. Thanks to Marco for re-instating the thread.
If you need a counterweight, armbase or tonearm board for SL-1200/10 let me know.
Re the polishing: You could always carefully polish the bits that are exposed;) A tiny over polish in the arm base would not hurt would polish off I would have thought.
Regards,
Steve
P.S. Must update the avatar pic with more recent exponential mid bass horns.
Rob's. Note the extra post arm rest - This was a complete deck conversion - remove original arm and adapt to fit the new custom armboard.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ec0d4dcec4.jpg
Hello Steve!
I just bought a SL1210Mk2 with stock tonearm, a DL103 and a AT-LH18/OCC.
What counterweight do you recommend? Any spacer for the headshell?
Thanks in advance!
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by DonGraft
That sounds like a headshell that could suit well. I don't know the exact weight of the AT-LH18. One info source is quoting shipping and item weight as the same - 18g which sounds quite a lot. The Sumiko is a bit lighter. The 103 is 8.5 grams. So combined ~ 26.5g. I guess that is too much for the standard weight?
A SPU is 30g.
If it won't balance with the standard weight (and form a physics / sound point of view, it's best with the counterweight as close to the pivot as possible) then a heavier weight is needed.
Best thing is to add some 2 pence pieces or Pound coins if you need lots of weight, and stick them on with Blutak to get it to what you need. Then weigh the lot - can be done on digital kitchen scales like the ones in my photos or even more accurately at the post office on their letter scales:)
I could then make you a brass one or for a fair bit more a Tungsten one to suit. The Tungsten is much more dense so can be fair bit smaller but costs a lot for the raw material.
I wouldn't think that you'd need more weight with a spacer in the headshell and the VTA adjuster on the arm should take care of most cart / headshell combos.
Regards,
Steve
Great.
I'll make some tests (as soon as the items arrive) and I'll let you know more details
Thanks!
Good stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by DonGraft
Here's an interesting little project and something a bit different.
Compression driver to horn throat adapters.
These are tapered at the correct angle to reduce from 1.5" to 1" for a 1" BMS compression driver.
In progress
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6707513baf.jpg
They are basically a steel plate, welded to a short section of 2" steel pipe and then another steel plate welded on. The plates make the mounting flanges for the horns and compression driver.
The plates are turned to be circular and white resin fills the 2" pipe. This then turned out on the lathe to provide the throat adapter, a smooth progression from 1" to 1.5".
Here is the finished article painted up and bolted up to horn and driver.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7c1fca3e7f.jpg
These horns now form the upper mid channels in a 5 way system for domestic use but one that will also see high quality PA use.
Here is a pic of them strapped in place
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8d3c6b69fd.jpg
One side of the full outfit
http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/w...130807_006.jpg[/URL]
Back on to turntables. Here is a plinth and arm spacer project.
Birch ply cutout to fit Garrard 401 deck
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d29994792a.jpg
Deck trial fit
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1e7e19f72d.jpg
Countersunk mounting to suit AN arm
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1776cafb85.jpg
Birch ply spacer to give correct VTA and nice range of adjustment
Test mounted
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8f44a4631b.jpg
The mounting board and spacer are sanding / rubbed down to smooth / sealed and will now be painted in a textured finish matt black as requested. Further photos to follow.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d5d0c5483b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fcfae3c0c6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...739e3358b6.jpg
That work looks stunning Steve!:eek::youtheman:
Here it is all done. Finish is as requested by the decks owner.
It's Dulux matt black vinyl, rollered on for a textured finish. That way it does not just look black but a bit charcoal - works really well with the deck and plinth.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...50b781b673.jpg
Here's an ebony disc sub weight for Jazzbones. 40m x 8mm, 15mm hole.
Left un-oiled / unpolished as requrested.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b1ef134e5a.jpg
Hi Steve, looks good mate. Have to go down to the main Post Office depot as I was not in when delivered, damn!Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy.steve
For those of a curious mind this ebony disc is to add a little mass to a special bronze counter weight from Linn given to me some time back, to use on my Ekos. The Linn CW weighs 166gm on its own and the ebony disc will be bonded to this enabling me to have the finished weight closer to the arm pillar pivotal point. I'm using a Koetsu Black and spinning it around is a highly modded Tech 1210. The ebony disc will match Steve's ebony arm board and the cosmetic changes I have made to the deck. Pics as soon as all the jobs are completed.
Thanks SteveO for your workmanship.
JB
Here's a 180g counterweight for MikeMusic destined for a Jelco / SPU combo.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0943b81c30.jpg
Here's a turntable pulley replacement project.
This is for an Cranfield Rock turntable owned by Nonsmokingman.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba059fb67e.jpg
Here's a pic of another deck showing the motor and pulley arrangement.
The original speed adjustment was in the form of angling the motor so the belt would ride on a smaller / larger diameter part of the drive pulley, changing the gearing suitably. However this never really seems to have worked since the current owner has had the deck (could be something to do with the air slowly going out of the deck suspension bellows - but as these have been jacked up that is a bit dubious).
The platter runs quite a bit too fast. So the easiest way to correct this is to have a pulley that is the right size to start with - like most belt drive turntables.
The drive pulley also has deep flanges so a wide belt rubs on them causing speed instabilities. A new pulley with a slight curve (barrel) to keep the belt in the right place is called for.
First task is to remove the existing pulley that was on very tight - interference fit. Aluminium on the steel shaft of the motor.
These motors are like hens teeth and not at all an easy rebuild so no undue force much be applied to the motor or the deck in doing this.
I made a puller out of some bar steel and bolts and an old threaded knob / collar I had in the parts chest. I drilled a 4mm hole down the centre of the thread so 3 different lengths of rod could be inserted as the pulley was 'pulled' off the motor shaft.
Here is a pic of the puller in place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0c232a5eae.jpg
The central large thread pushes on the motor shaft whilst the bar clamped around the pulley base and the collar brings the pulling force to bear.
Here's the pulley off the motor.
Next up is the make a perfect fitting pulley of the right diameter for 33 & 1/3 rpm, but a pair of or three opposing grub screws to hold the pulley in place against rotational forces.
To be continued.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c3254f4599.jpg
An update on the Elite Cranfield phonogram "The Rock" as the label on the back states...
Pulley made.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3cdc500dc6.jpg
Using a strobe and checking the speed after 30mins warm up and with the stylus in groove I had a few goes at shaving fractions off to get it spot on.
Another view
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b56fa8f0ed.jpg
The slight barrelling of the pulley drive surface has worked well. The belt stays spot on in the pulley centre once the motor angle is adjusted.
The TT takes quite a while to speed stablise. The owner assures me this is normal. Once it has stabilised it is a very sweet sounding deck with Ortofon Cadenza blue cart. BTW, this is a 33 1/3 rpm only deck.
The owner has two of these decks the 2nd one will be done shortly;)
I am now working on a 2nd Cranfield Rock. This one suffered a sub-chassis to plinth spring trauma. 40+yrs use and some of that time it being stored with a heavy weight (other equipment?) took its toll.
The springs lost some spring and receded. As they are set in many kgs of resin replacement is not easy.
The solution is to give them a boost. I made 3 raisers that fit between the sub-chassis and the plinth. This raises the coil spring tubes clear and all is nicely sprung again. Should give many more years suspension...
Here is one located on the coil spring
Here's a pic of the entire underside
The black paint is drying now so the risers don't show.
This one also needs a new pulley and a 45rpm one too. So that is next up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b81ae58583.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...63d3f1e8c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2b6f6d8c91.jpg
Just to let all you SL-1210 and 1200 fans know that I have obtained a test mounting deck to make armboard making easier / not requiring your deck in front of me to make armboards.
Decks that have not been converted to after market armboards do of course need modding. Rivnuts is the usual or I can make up steel blind nut inserts as I did for Marco's deck. These can be fitted easily (they just slot in) once the original arm is removed. They also have much tougher threads being of steel.
I do still of course need to know the arm base height relative to the platter, the spindle to pivot distance for the arm as well as the mounting hole or slot dimensions - best source for these is the arm manufacturers template. Of course having the arm to test mount is even better.
A wide range of Hardwoods can be used. Ebony and African blackwood best matching the SL-1210 of course.
For SL-1200's a silver lacquer spray finish can be applied.
Drop me a line to discuss as every installation is unique.
Been busy on a new projects.
A Marble plinth. Cutting quite easy, drilling slow but possible. Top up the water to cool every 10secs of drilling.
BTW the other wobbly hole was cut by the customer not me!:)
There are two of these and they will go into something quite different... More on that later.
A little spacer to allow a fitting from a smaller dia arm to an existing armboard.
Armbase fitted
Ebony block for VPI deck board.
NEWS FLASH
I've bought myself an SL-1210 deck (again as I had one a few years back),to use as a template / mounting deck, so now I can make armboards etc / conversion kits with just the pivot to spindle distance known. No need for customer deck to be here.
So the armboard service can go mail order as well;)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4d664f5e7c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f521c2ead2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...86e98bd232.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...791adcfb3a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...858099a11e.jpg
hi Steve. without reading all 22 pages of this thread, what would i need to give you in order to have a bespoke arm board made? (if it's possible at all :))
is it just measurements or the armboard as it stands now + new measurements etc? it's not exactly a common turntable/arm combo - Pioneer PLC-590 + Audio Technica AT-1005 mkII
Hi,
I'd need measurements - easy if its just a block or round but some have intricate cutouts and indents.
Best of all would be to send me the original so I can clone it. The new pivot to spindle would need to be established from measuring on your deck and marking out, on for example masking tape, where the new arm hole is to be.
Regards,
Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by belloire
thank Steve
i'll do some measuring and take it to pieces. i'll pm you for more details soon. looking in the manual (from vinylengine.com) it appears it's a 2 piece affair with a board and a metal plate. both look pretty much square though :)
cheers
darren
Sounds doable.
If its a plate then it needs to be of a reasonable thickness to be possible in wood. See below for pics of VPI board.
Quote:
Originally Posted by belloire
Here is a custom board for a VPI deck.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...76ed86d162.jpg
In daylight it has this sort of sheen/finish.
(this was just a test piece)
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c8411bd43.jpg
I've also got my work horse deck - armhole cleared ready for measuring / fitting of projects, so easy to make armboards and fitting kits.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f77f3de79c.jpg
Hi Steve , could you make me an armboard for a Luxman pd300,if yes what materials would be available,
thanks Paul
Looking at pics of the deck it appears to be about a 6" round board.
If you can supply measurements, dia, thickness, any other machinings and a template of where the armhole / other drillings are to be I can make it.
Materials could be at the cheaper end of the scale birch ply finished for example in black or Ebony at the higher price end of things. Deck is silver black or silver would look good, ebony is naturally very dark of course.
Please PM me for further details.
Quote:
Originally Posted by loo
Hi Steve ,thanks for the speedy reply, PM sent.
Paul
Basic armboard turned / shaped ready for marking out for SME 309 arm
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b4d2f9b961.jpg
Work in progress / unfinished armboard. Dished and SME cutout completed, ready for locating hole drilling.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f5d1cd98f3.jpg
Don't worry the ebony is near black one smoothed and finish is applied;)
To Be Continued...
More progress on the armboard for a SME 309.
All drilled and mounted (the bolts where the SME mount go are only to test hole clearance - M4).
My custom brass blind nuts/threaded plates in place - no permanent mods needed - like rivet nuts.
Next up is finishing - sanding, fine sanding and lacquer / polish.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...629588d167.jpg
The quality of your craftsman ship is breathtaking :cool:
Regards Neil
Indeed, I have a lovely ebony arm plate from Steve to attest to that.
Indeed, as have I. As nice as the armboards appear above, the pictures don't really do them justice, compared with how they look 'in the flesh'. Aside from anything else, I just love how tactile they feel! :)
I'm so glad that I asked Steve to design these armboards, a few years ago, (based solely on a gut instinct that they would be effective on the Technics). In my opinion now, the solid ebony versions are a 'must have' for all SL-1200/1210 aficionados, keen to release the full potential of their T/Ts.
Unquestionably, they offer a fundamental upgrade over the more commonly used aluminium ones, which can impart a somewhat clinical, 'a-musical' sound, accentuated already by the stock platter, mat and feet - all of which when suitably upgraded, for some of the now well-established aftermarket options, transform the Technics into a much more musically adroit beast, and provide a solid platform from which to apply the more sonically profound improvements offered by upgrading the bearing and PSU, thus taking the Technics truly into the high-end league.
Therefore, I would advise any potential buyers not to view these armboards as a mere 'accessory', but something much more fundamentally effective than that.
Marco.
I thought about one but decided to wait until after I (might) get another arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Am I right to assume the arms dictate the exact measurements/shape of the armboard ?
Yes - the armboards are cut for a specific arm. What arm are you thinking of going for, Mike?Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMusic
Thought so. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
As I have the SPU I was thinking of the RS212D like what Marco has.
If a Dynavector like yours came up for a fiver I could be tempted
:)
Not remotely urgent. The system sounds superb right now
I think you might struggle to get one now, Mike, as Ortofon have discontinued them, especially given the rarity of these tonearms in the UK. However, some may be available as surplus stock in outlets elsewhere in Europe, or in Japan, where they were much more popular, although that option will diminish as the years go by...Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMusic
If you can't get one, then a safe bet (whilst it remains in production) is the TA-110: http://www.ortofon.com/products/tonearms/ta-110 which is a 'souped up' version (considerably so) of your Jelco :)
Marco.
Thanks MarcoQuote:
Originally Posted by Marco
There is a 212D in Japan for £1400, risky buy ?
A TA110 for £1200
TA-210 for £1300 - similar or better
Any of them worth a punt without a listen ?
All of them, providing that they are brand new! ;)
Marco (who'd never risk buying an expensive second-hand tonearm).
All brand new.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Japan probably pus customs
How do you rate the 3 ?
Showz da links to all three and I'll offer you my opin-ione :)
Marco.
Check out 2juki's shop on eBay.Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMusic
Hi the TA 210 is a 12" armQuote:
Originally Posted by MikeMusic
Paul
Hi Steve, a couple of quick snaps of a Luxman armboard although this one is for a SME
http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2ac2f5c5.jpg
http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/...ps73b14e41.jpg
Paul.
Good point, Paul! :eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by loo
The 110 is the 9-incher....
Marco.
Oh, the amount of money I could spend on that site!! :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
This would be great, Mike, if you obtained the heavy counterweight balance (necessary for the SPU), available from Ortofon (in the UK, via Henley):
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ortofon-AS...item414ac6b0cc
Marco.
yes Ortofon model numbers are a bit strange ,
the TA is a nice arm though much improved on its jelco cousin
Paul
PS Mike I wouldn't buy one from japan though I would buy it from Ortofon;)
they sell them direct on their web shop for 1450 euros so as cheep in the end
Me too he has some great gear I would love to see his own system:stalks:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Has anyone else noticed another ebay seller with the name 2juki-cartridge has about 470 feedback is this the same guy trying to separate his cartridge sales or somebody else riding on his coat tails?
Paul
Thanks. He hasQuote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ortofon-RM...item56499125ff
and
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ortofon-AS...item414ac6b0cc
which seem further down the range
I don't know, but I've bought from 2juki and his service is excellent. He is in Hong Kong.
Thanks Paul. Might be difficult to get an armboard to work with that, perhaps hanging off the edge ?Quote:
Originally Posted by loo
:)