Good luck with it, Ron. I'll be interested in how the Ekos gels with the Techie.Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzBones
Good luck with it, Ron. I'll be interested in how the Ekos gels with the Techie.Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzBones
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Martin, I've been using my Ekos all along with my Tek my Ekos is non standard issue. Johnny J7 of Audio Origami worked his magic on it and the arm has the following:
1. Kondo silver arm wiring from the actual cartridge tags through to the SME arm cable socket.
2. The arm has been internally damped, but not to a high degree.
3. I have an Audio Origami gold plated decoupled counter weight with grub screw fitting to arm tube. very light force to hold weight insitu.
3. I also use a very, very, very thin carbon fibre gasket between my cartidge, at the mo an AT09II, and head shell.
4. Arm cabling to pre-amp (an Avondale super modded Naim NAC72) is Van Damme cable.
In total the sound I'm now getting is absolutely great to my ears :smoking:
My SL1210Mk2 has the following mods that I have carried out over time:
1. Mike New bearing secured by six bolts to..
2. Mike New Bearing base plate bonded to the table pan with gasketing compound
3. The five bolts have been secured by flanged aerospace spec nuts, all dabbed with Hamerite paint.
4. The underneath of the Pan has had 2 to 3mm sound deadening and anti vibrations bitumastic mats bonded on, allowing access to nuts.
5. Mike New platter with Funk Acromats 5mm times two (10mm in total) bonded by Petroleum Jelly (Vaselene) spread.
6. The support: I've done away with Isonoes feet and instead I use Origin Live rubber feet and pads.
7 The whole caboodle is supported on a Max Townshend Seismic platform, the new bellows and spring version. All on a dedicated three legged Mark Baker Ultra TT table with Oak platform....phew...!
8. I've kept the TS HE off board PSU connected to mains by Russ Andrews Kimber reference canble.... believe me this power supply sings when everything else is spot on, but I will of course investigate the 57 Hynes variety ones :lol:
If I knew how I would show pictures but my expertise lies else where.
For those who may read this and think this guy is loopy da loop, well I am but I have more years behind me than in front of me so I have been working on my final one and only table and this is it!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for reading all this,
Ron
:yay:
PS And of course Speedy's ebony arm board will take its place on the TT... can't report on this one till its up and a done thing
Glad it arrived safely and you like it so far...
Hi steve,
Could you make an oblong armboard 200mm x 150mm x 15mm with 6 mounting holes and cut out to suit Jelco spec?
Nigel
See what I've started? :doh:
:eyebrows: :eyebrows:
Marco.
One small unexpected issue as a result of ebony being non-conductive is that I noticed a small amount of hum at high volumes, more than I had previously been used to. Playing with earth routing, it wasn't the arm that was unearthed but the Technics turntable itself (now isolated from the arm's earth since losing the steel armboard). I guess that Paul's SR5 must have a floating negative return?
Taking an earth cable from the main PCB earth (lower-left post) to my Whest's earth post cured it. Other ebony armboard users may wish to check this out.
Hi Martin,
The SR5 and in fact all my power supplies unless otherwise requested have a floating negative return. This avoids multiple ground loops with multiple power supplies all connected to the same system, thus avoiding ground loop hum. The power supply circuitry takes it’s ground reference from the equipment it powers. The power supply chassis are all earthed to mains earth for safety. The third wire in the Power supply DC lead is connected to the power supply chassis and therefore mains earth but this may not be the optimum path for an earth connection with some equipment, so I leave this wire floating.
You have already found a cure for the ebony board insulation problem by earthing the deck to the Whest preamp earth post. This is probably the optimum earth point, as it will hold the deck chassis at close to the earth potential of the preamp chassis without traversing a polluted system ground.
Regards
Paul
Thanks Paul - good to have it confirmed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Hynes
After some PM'ing it looks like we will share a bigger lump of ebony as I am curious to try one out on my slate plinth'd SP-10 now:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinylspinner
Martin, I have installed my ebony arm board on my 1210 and this morning I switched on and whacked up the wick to my normal listening level.... NO hum at all. My PSU is the TS HE so obviously things have been done differently?Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
My first impression of the ebony board insitu is very favourable and this is after my mono powers (normally left on 24/7) and the aforementioned PSU also normally left on had been fired up from stone cold. I was listening from cold, no cartridge warm up initially. Very briefly, I'm getting a much more organic natural sound from the percussive hammer of felt covered strikers on a grand piano, fingernail or thumb pluck of acoustic and jazz electric guitar, etc... these are but a few things I have noticed after a very brief listen to see if all was working...it was :)
One problem I did have was fitting the board itself as the screw holes were not absolutely true and the holes drilled not allowing any margin for fitting both in attaching arm collar (Linn) and the three plate screws to the 1210, there was also a hairline crack in the side where I presume Steve's drilling was a bit at fault but it is not noticeable except to a fusy old codger like me who checks everything before use, its so minute that I can liver with it and it has not been detrimental to performance and not worth taking up with Steve who has generally done a good job.
Cheers
Ron :)
That's annoying Ron. I clamped the template to it for guidance so all holes lined up - I will have to check the bed on my pillar drill as it can tilt for angles perhaps that was why...
It is a bit fragile when thin due to it's hardness I have found - the drills clog and heat is a problem - I learned to up and down a lot and stop and unclog but it was still a problem.
Heat / expansion probably caused the crack - I did not see it. Will drill even slower next time.
Ideally you would use some washers under the mounting bolts as they are M4 and the holes are as the template M5.
Also I would guess your blind nuts are the same as Martin's and they are aluminium rivnuts - do not over tighten as the ali is not very strong.
Ron, I would guess that the Timestep PSU has an earthed negative return, which would provide your deck with earthing. Therefore no hum despite the arm no longer being connected to the deck.Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzBones
Steve, no worries mate, the ebony armplate is a must for the tekky, I'll be having an all day listening sesh tomorrow when the missus is at her mum's. Being a Linn owner I have learnt NEVER to overtighten the arm board, pillar grub screw or the cartridge itself. On the ebony board I used the mounting screws you provided plus small sized washers of the same diameter only screwed down lightly to secure. It may be worth considering making the screw holes slightly larger to allow tolerance without over doing it? I was able to do this myself easily and you're right the black powder goes everywhere, Bren thought it was either messing about with gun powder or it was something I was sniffing, snuff etc :eek: and I got berated for messing up the kitchen work top, it beats my work bench :)Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy.steve
For anyone reading this, please note, that as far as I am aware, Steve personally fitted both Marco's and Martin T's ebony boards. On the other hand I provided Steve with a template to work from and I fitted my own board so Steve was not on hand for niggling little sod's law matters that cropted up... this happens in life.
If you're competent in your skills, buy the ebony with confidence, if not get Steve to fit it for you...okay?
Finally, I wonder what other hard woods could offer the same degree of performance, Australian Jarrah (ironwood), teak, etc. the mind is overworking folks.
Cheers
Ron
I think thats what it is.... you'll have to get a TS HE, for the price its a good'un mate :eyebrows::eyebrows::eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Its strange this earthing malarky business, on a Linn Sondek a Linn arm is invariably connected by earth wiring to both pre-amp, phono stage clamp and also a secondary earth tag soldered or screwed to the metal subchassis. My Ekos only has the earth wire to pre-amp and no secondary earthing to the metal body of my my Tekky and as you have said the ebony is non-conductive.
The battle for perfection continues.
As a matter of interest, those with SME arms would have to have a helluva slot cut out of the ebnony board to accommodate the arm, maybe weakening the armboard, any thoughts on this one, anybody :scratch:
Ron
I guess you could have greater thickness like Marco requested even though his was quite deeply dished its still pretty thick and so would be stronger - depends on arm base depth SME mounting require.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzBones
Me got niento hum-anto, daddy-o, and I'm using an SR7.... :scratch:Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Marco.
At full listening volume, Marco?
At that level there is just hiss and a VERY FAINT low-level 'noise' (it doesn't really qualify as hum), depending on where my SUT is positioned :)
On another issue, I'm glad that everyone who's had an ebony armboard made has found it a significant sonic improvement. That's what happens when you apply some lateral thinking, and of course have a skilled person on hand, like Steve, who can turn that thinking into a tangible upgrade!
Marco.
Today I've had the chance to properly listen some more and the results are really remarkable so I thought I'd try to describe more deeply what I'm hearing.
Firstly, what I'm hearing is a combination of: Steve's ebony armboard; Paul Hynes' two-stage regulation with split motor control and motor drive feeds; fix to the earth path that improves on the original arrangement.
- Ebony armboard: described above
- Two-stage dual PSU regs: described here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showp...5&postcount=89
- Earthing: rather than the original earthing arrangement where the deck was earthed via the arm's earth cable, the steel arm plate and into the deck at a different point from the PCB earth; the deck and arm are now split in two (insulated by the wood) and each is independently earthed back to the same earthing post on the phono preamp (the deck from that all-important lower-left PCB post), so true star earthing both inside and outside the turntable
What I hear is incredible midrange clarity and insight. This is partly due to the very low noise floor (there is absolutely no hum and very little noise at listening volumes, so the background is almost entirely dictated by the vinyl and original recording - and I listen fairly loud). The space around vocals and percussive instruments such as cymbals is now better defined, allowing the brain to easily place the performance in its space. Dynamic swell in a good recording can be mind-blowing. Bass is even more textured and potent.
One example: Van Morrison's Common One is a superb recording, already treasured by me for its wonderful performance, sense of space and very potent bass. Playing Wild Honey, I could really hear the rasp of the brass in the way that I heard it from Steve's horns; an almost dirty noise lacking the smoothing-over that most systems treat horns to. Van Morrison also plays with the dynamic range, lowering his voice to whisper quiet and then shouting out at some points, causing me to reel back. In Haunts of Ancient Peace, the sense of space is far more than I had previously heard and the foundation-shaking bass underpins the whole while leaving his voice ever-present, floating above it, and not at all overwhelmed.
I could go on but hopefully you get the picture. This is the best vinyl replay I've achieved by quite a margin. I now feel ready to attempt the triple-stage regulation that Paul Hynes has supplied me with, having a proper baseline (!) with which to compare results. Not just now, though; I need to get back to the music :)
Comments? Did it make sense, especially what I hear from brass instruments?
Yes, it's because the metallic coloration of the aluminium armboard has been removed, and so now instrumental detail is rendered with more realism! It's exactly what I'm hearing myself, mate :)
One of these days I'll come up with a bad idea, eh...? ;)
Marco.
Indeed, it's just a question of time :ner:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
:eyebrows:
:rfl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
:king:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Hi
Long time lurker, first time poster (I think?) - I've learned a lot here and often direct anyone enthusiastic about audio over here. I'm pretty happy with my stock SL1210MK5, having had it for ~3 years and only starting to experiment when I was practically given an Audio Technica AT33 PTG. It wasn't long after checking this cart out that, the high output Denon DL110MC (which is a fine cartridge IMHO) went back into its box. Long story short - I really, really like the AT33 PTG.
However, there was something 'lacking' in the cart, that perhaps the Denon had - Honestly I'm still a "trial / error" guy with a pretty limited 'audiophile' vocabulary, so I apologise for not being able to accurately describe this. Eventually, a friend of mine and fellow vinyl enthusiast tells me that he had a very similar problem with his cart, an Audio-Technica too but I can't recall exact which model now. So after telling me all this technical stuff that I still don't quite fully understand, he tells me about how virtually all his problems with the cart were solved, by using an Audio-Technica MG-10 headshell.
I borrow it, and to my surprise, things actually do sound better and 'tighter'. Anyway... couple of months pass, and I find myself in the position where I could buy a new Audio-Technica AT-LH13 headshell at a very nice price. I would've been insane not to go for it. So as of now, its on my way to me, but I'm guessing it'll take a couple of days - even a week maybe maybe - till it gets here.
Seeing as how the AT-LH13 is heavier (13gm) than the MG-10 (8gm, also I have to give it back to my friend soon), the question of having a counterweight made is a no brainer now.
Anyway... I don't know if this info is all thats needed, but here goes:
- Stock SL1210mk5 arm
- Audio-Technica AT33 PTG MC cartridge - 6.8 grams
- Audio-Technica AT-LH13 headshell - 13 grams
So thats about 19.8 grams total.
Am I doing this right? Is there, for example, other factors I've not taken into account in regards to having a counterweight made? I know that there are other mods that would be real beneficial (bearing, plater, arm, PSU, etc etc), but for now I really just want to focus on the stock arm, and the custom counterweight.
In terms of materials and whatnot - as long as it works well, it's fine by me, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Anyway I'm not sure if I'm not doing something right cos I can't seem to PM Steve or get in contact with him, unless I missed something? Is Steve even making these anymore? Just in case, I thought maybe I'll just post everything here; I hope this is OK with everyone.
As for other mods - The only one involves replacing the standard feet on my deck with Isonoe's and (probably) sorbothane boots - This will be done in roughly 2 weeks. Other mods - I'm sure - will come later (you know what I mean :) but thats for another time and thread.
Again, anything that could help, or make things go faster, will be really helpful. I'm totally committed to this and you guys know your stuff better than I do, so I think I'm in pretty good hands.
Cheers!
Trevor
PS: Thought I'd add a few pics - these were taken when I had the MG10 headshell:
Update: I've been told the headshell is actually an AT-LT13a, not an MG10.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6...989fa140_z.jpg
Counterweight (Too Far Back!) by Trevor, on Flickr
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7013/6...721b3ff1_z.jpg
Audio Technica AT33PTG MC Cartridge by Trevor, on Flickr
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7153/6...32dd052d_z.jpg
Deck_1-2-12 by Trevor, on Flickr
Hi Trevor,
Glad to hear of what you've been up to and that you enjoy the forum :)
However, before going any further, could you please pop into the Welcome area and introduce yourself, by telling us what system you have and what music you like?
Oh, and where you live - cheers! :cool:
Marco.
Hi Marco,
Will do - Headed there now!
Trevor
Here's one I made today
Going to a good home in Canada for a SL-1210.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...351adbdba4.jpg
Here's an Ebony tonearm spacer for a Jelco SA-750E.
Oiled and waxed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0a39d9533c.jpg
As it's between a tonearm board and a counterweight - quite literally:-), I'll put a pick of this ebony tonearm mounting spacer here too.
Hi Steve,
I'm currently using a Rega RB 1000 with a Koetsu Rosewood Signature, The weight is racked too far to the back and also, I feel an asymetrical weight would be better. Do you think you could make one in copper/tungsten alloy?
Cheers
Paul S
Ongoing:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulStewart
Tungsten must be a bitch to work with :eek:
It would be. I insist on it being a Tungsten-copper alloy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Hi!
I'm another one of those who own a Technics 1200 and has the 18g AT-LH18 headshell with a Denon 103r. I have the Kab fluid arm damper like one of the other guys who asked (dpnt know if that affects this?). Could you make a counterweight for me? They look great and would be the perfect solution for me! I wasnt able to send you a pm here, since I just registered (found this through google).
Pål-Hallstein from Oslo, Norway
Hi Paal,
Welcome to AoS :)
Before you go any further, could you please pop into the Welcome area and introduce yourself to our community, as you were asked to do in the registration email you received - ta! :cool:
Marco.
done:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Thanks, Paal - much appreciate it :)
Marco.
PM sent to speedy steve :)
Here you go:)Quote:
Originally Posted by vandergraafuk
120g CW for Techi
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eb834f4b85.jpg
Received CW, top notch. Thank you :)
Hi guys,
Due to current personal circumstances Steve is no longer able to provide his bespoke armboard service. Should this situation change, then the thread will be re-opened and updated accordingly.
Marco.
Guys,
I'm very pleased to announce that Steve has informed me that he is 'back on the scene', as it were, and happy to take your orders now for any custom-made counterweight balances and/or armboards.
Welcome back, Steve - you've been missed! :clap:
Marco.
Nice one, Steve. Your armboard is still doing the biz in my Technics :)
Ditto - The ebony is one sweet armboard :) btw Martin, Do you ever treat yours to some wood wax ? I believe we are supposed to every now and then. I never have and should i guess.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
Robbie, that would entail removing the arm and I never do that unless I have to. I prefer to leave what's working nicely well alone :)
Now this is good news - maybe the Ultracraft can be made Koetsu-ready with a new counterweight sometime soon!
Is it almost up and running, Chris? Need piccies!Quote:
Originally Posted by The Grand Wazoo
Still a little way off Martin!
Ditto Martin. Once I have that sweet spot found re: arm / cartridge set up I just dont mess unless absolutely no choice and unavoidable ! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT