Wow, nice modding there. I would like to see final shot(s) when all is put together and its cleaned/polished. Bring it on..
Tho the copper armboard is visual show stopper for me here but I bet it has great sound characteristics. :rolleyes:
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Hi Mike, a late acknowledgement of your post yesterday, thanks for the info.
I currently use a TS HE psu which does not have an on/off switch hence is powered up 24/7 so I switch my 1210 off at the deck's on/off switch, however, at the back of my mind I am giving alot of thought and consideration to a worthwhile upgrade based on perceived performance by me . High on the consideration list is of course the mighty Paul Hynes, but someone on here is doing a comparison of PSUs for the Techo so I'm being patient and waiting for that to come out. As you know :) the mechanics of my deck are well sorted and implemented, so apart from ergonomics/cosmetics, the PSU is the only thing left to do if something really comes along that I consider a worthwhile step up.
Ron
Ron,
Sorry for taking a while to answer your questions.
1. I filled the holes in with aluminium mesh and car body mastic. I sanded them down with super coarse sand paper and then finer grades until a nice even key was gained.
2. I did the paint job myself and its not perfect, but its good enough for me as I'm not selling it :D The paint was a special non-metallic matt black paint.
3. They "rocker" switch sounds good. It may also be beneficial to get rid of the LEDS's in the 33/45 rpm switches, less components in the 1210's PCB. In more eyes less is more!
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info Andrew, v/helpful. I would like to get someone from Rolls Royce paint shop :eyebrows: to do a piano black gloss jobby, but I feel this would be bloody expensive and I may have a fruitless search, so the end game might be a DIY job!
I've seen some lovely rocker switches on decks before and I can't say I'm all that happy with the Techo's drum shaped switch?
Looking forward to seeing your finished product and of course your views on the upgrade to PH PSU over the TS HE psu which I still use and you have been using.
Cheers
Ron :)
Right, Mike New baseplate now fixed into place. I have used the two tube version of araldite (which stinks when you use it!), and its stuck pretty firm in place. i had a scare last night when the platter didnt smooth rotate around the mike new bearing spindle, this has now been sorted. I would recommend this method to anyone seriously thining about upgrading the 1210 as the structural integrity of the plinths and subplinth arn't compromised, meaning things are more rigid and less prone to rattle;) The 1210 is now in a state of hiatus as the new PSU and internal regs havent arrived yet :( So i'm hoping to have the new PSU fitted nxt week and the regs sometime next month :eek:
Andy
My SR7EHD-27 should arrive soon, too :)
i've been waiting months for mine so I cant wait!
some good news, mainly my SR7EHD-21XL PSU from Paul is finished and now hopefully will be here next week and also Yannis has finished my tonearm cable and should also be with me next week or two :gig:
Exciting stuff, dude. I promise you'll be in for some serious fun! Let me know what you think of the tonearm cable, as I suspect that you'll get your 'super-duper' one before I'll get mine :cool:
Marco.
YES:(
I guess I'm in the more comfortable position of my 1210 sounding fab with the SR5, so I can wait for my SR7 to arrive :)
I'm glad. Paul is one of the world's true gents.
I'd agree with that hes making some internal regs for later on in May :eyebrows:
Well the SR7XL arrived today and all I can say is thats its bloody massive. It quite literally looks immense and extremely moody, you wouldn't want to pick a fight with it! I'll be linking it up tomorrow after a little tweak. I have spoken to Paul and the internal regs may be here quicker than I expected :eek:. I'll report tomorrow after I've had a couple of hours with it hooked up. Thanks very very much Paul :cool:
Indeed - rather a chunky monkey, is it not? The sonic improvement, even without the reg mods installed yet, should be obvious! :eyebrows:
Marco.
The really maddening thing is that I'm not really gonna get any time to fit the thing until Friday :( I'm solid at work, so I've just got the thing switched on to slowly burn it in, it should have at least 20 hours burn in when I'm ready to install it. I honestly dont think there is that much more apart from the internal regs (for the time being) that I can do to the 1210 apart from some minor tweeks that I have planned and a BIG project that i'm gonna keep quite about :eyebrows: I'll be posting details on some minor tweeks soon!
Looking forward to your report back on the minor tweeks cause some of the major stuf you guys undertake is not for the fainthearted :lol:
Without any vinyl replay myself at the mo :( as I've just sold my base model Timestep for a meatier external psu. I've taken a punt on what Sean from Custom Cables has been thinking about offering up as a DC-3 after hearing good things about his DC-1 and DC-2 external psu's for the Techie. It is in effect an upgrade of this one his DC-2 - http://www.custom-hifi-cables.co.uk/...c-power-supply
Mine will include: 'DC3' PSU - using a 280x230x80mm black case, 500VA transformer, Schottky diode rectification, 4x10,000uF Nichicon KG caps, DC2 regulation board (fully upgraded as far as possible with regards to components used). With locking ring output and a 1.0m shielded and braid-sheathed output cable plus extra locking ring for 1210 chassis b1.5m PowerBlack IEC mains cable
Wont pretend I understand all the spec details lol (someone will and may offer initial comment) but I told him I wanted something pretty good and at a competitive price with good cables etc. £418 including delivery.
Have placed deposit, balance to follow in coming weeks. Will definately report back on findings but I'm pretty excited already :)
Sounds like a good solid base for a PSU Robert, but what is the regulator?
DCSXL pure-silver DC lead, fitted with Jaeger (low-impedance) connector now fitted. Remove a couple of resistors, and a cap, and a few other bits of pieces on the PCB. Its all hooked up, just need to check the voltage of the SR7 (where's that multimeter). Will also be making a special stand for the new PSU over the weekend!
Hi Mark, In addition to previously advised in post #124 above re: regulator. I can quote from one of the emails I've recieved as follows:
The basic design is something called a 'Tracking Pre-Regulator', which uses two separate regulators working together (not just in series) to give much better performance than single-reg designs. The TPR design is also used by Les W of Avondale Audio and Teddy Pardo, two other very highly-regarded audio engineers who make their own PSU DIY modules, although the three designs all vary quite a bit in the implementation the basic principles are the same.
The actual part number of the regulators I use is LM1085 - a higher-current version of the standard 1086, which itself is a modern and superior replacement to the common 317 (which is still used by many manufacturers including Naim Audio). The 317 architecture allows for much better performance than the fixed regualator types like the 7805/7812 series of regs - even these low-quality parts are used by many manufacturers on low to mid-end equipment.
I've used a modified version of my DC2 PCB with some better-than-standard capacitors and regulators added, along with the much bigger transformer and capacitor array it'll surpass the standard DC2 by a good margin.
As I say Mark the spec stuf doesn't mean a lot to me but I'm sure it will have more meaning to you and others. I can also add that the guy (Sean) is an absolute pleasure to deal with to say the least and without even hearing the psu he's doing for me (which I'm sure will sound great going by testimonials re: even his entry level psu), I'm truly glad I took a punt. Finally apologies Andrew if I've highjacked the thread - totally not intended :)
Tracking regulators generally refer to one in the positive rail & a second one in a negative rail below ground (as an example +/- 15V & ground) where one is slaved to the other & delivers the opposite of the first one.
The 317 (337 is the negative rail version) is definately better than just about any fixed voltage regulator I can think of ;) Performance can be improved with decent circuit design.
I don't know the regulators you are refering to, obviously newer types. You can't beat discrete regulators though, but they do cost some :rolleyes:
Sounds half decent & I hope it does to :D
Likewise, apologies to Andrew for the brief side step :)
Just to get back on track lads I thought I'd mail a quick pic of the new PSU for people who have never seen Paul's work before. As you can see its huge!
Yep - I saw Marco's SR7 and immediately asked Paul to delete the front heatsink on mine. It doesn't need it for the Technics application and will reduce the PSU's bulk and weight somewhat.
Indeed... TBH, I never gave the heat-sink a moment's thought.
One thing though, Andrew, you need to get the SR7 up off of the floor and onto some sort of support, which offers isolation, or your T/T won't sound as good as it should.
No equipment, in a high-end hi-fi system, should ever be sat on the floor!
Marco.
Marco,
Its sitting there because I have to check its voltage, Paul cant remember if it was 21V or 27V when he set it up so I'm gonna have to open it up and use a multimeter to check the voltage ;) I'm pretty good with the old carpentry skills and I have a few bits of timber & MDF in the garage so watch this space for a home-made stand specially made for the SR7 :eek:
Andy
Nice one, Andy. Just trying to keep you right! ;)
Marco.
Andy - you don't need to open it up unless the voltage is incorrect. Just put your multimeter probes into the socket at the back.
Right, the SR7XL PSU is now installed and all I can say is that after 5 minutes I noticed the following things :-
1. Lower surface noise, the old timestep PSU used to pick up every single crackle on vinyl known to man which I thought was actually a weakness of my old audiotechnica cartridge.
2. Bass has a greater impact.
3. Intrsuments have better seperation. I have a torture track on the latest dream theatre album, the 1st track on side 2 which has an incredible section where several million notes are fired at you at once. The old timestep PSU whilst it made a decent ham of the track failed to properly seperate everything, the SR7 seemed to seperate things very easily indeed. It was the first time the the track didnt seem congested. That's impressive.
Just a few musings. I'm off to have a decent listen and see what I can come up with!
Hi Andrew, Which of your carts are you listening with, is it the Cadenza Black ?
Nope its the Audio technica (as in my sig). I thought I'd mount it and see how it sounded and to be truthful its gone up in my estimation but I think its the PSU rather then the cart :D
Interesting one, Andy, about your old TS HE picking up every pop and crackle. As you know I use a TS HE and don't have this problem possibly because I go through a strict cleaning and degausing routine but it does leave me minutely feeling a little more is required (does that feeling every end?), by the way using an AT09IIml cartridge. I look forward to your further comments as I'm thinking along the same lines as MartinT... 'no heat sink'... I'm assuming of course that there is an on/off button to activate when not using the PH unit? My TS HE is left on 24/7 as are my amps.
You'll probably find that performance will improve as your new PSU beds in with continuous play.
Pleased for you mate :).
Ron
The SR5 has an on/off rocker switch and I'm fairly sure I've seen the same switch on the SR7. I checked with Paul and he confirmed that the current draw of the Technics does not generate sufficient heat to warrant the giant heatsink in the SR7.
Ron,
Thanks for the great comments! Paul has confirmed that most of the changes occur within the 1st month. The TS HE was an ok little PSU but I wanted more and the SR7 within 2 hours of usage has confirmed there is more. I always switch my amps and PSU off after every listening session, I'm not a subscriber to the leave everything on all the time brigade (no disrespect Ron ;)). The heatsink just came with the PSU, so its stopping on. I dont think it's going to have an impact on the sonics, and yes the SR7 has a rocker switch on its front so you can switch off when you like.
Internal regs coming in next few weeks Martin, oh $hit, more open heart surgery for the techie!
Yes and it would stop you giving the national grid a run for its money! :D
Hush, hush Dave, she thinks I'm tappin' into next door's lekky :eyebrows:
Martin, thanks for the info re: rocker switch; had a feeling there would be one.
As a matter of interest, does the PH psu run warm to hot after awhile of playing? At the Whittlebury show, last year, the MCFUS Tekky supply ran hot bottle warm. I assume the casing will be different for Paul's and does the lack of a heat sink mean it will cost a little less?
Cheers both
Ron
The SR5 barely ever gets warm to the touch so it has plenty of headroom - better for good regulation.
If Martin's not around for any reason, then you've also got Anthony TD, who fitted the reg boards on my T/T. He would also gladly help :)
I think what your observations have shown so far is how much of a toy the Timestep effort is, in comparison... Ron, you need to up the ante, mate, and get a proper man-sized PSU! :eyebrows: ;)
Marco.
Marco, as soon as I recover from your enthusiastic endorsement of VEET and pubic hair re-appears on me underdungga rattlers I shall man up and go for the SR7 minus heat sink. I can manager fitting this on my own, using the missus's reknown soldering skills but the regulators will have to come later when I can get help.
Off now with me anglepoise lamp and high power magnifying glass in search of growth as aforementioned :scratch::doh::)
Ron