One cap? That's handy!
Oh, I'm sure I know a man with a plan ;)Quote:
you need someone with an inductance meter values for the inductors..
Marco.
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One cap? That's handy!
Oh, I'm sure I know a man with a plan ;)Quote:
you need someone with an inductance meter values for the inductors..
Marco.
Cheers for the link, dude - interesting! I shall remember that for future reference :)
Marco.
Hi Marco
How are the celestion ditton 15's comeing along.The reason I ask is I just won a pair on the bay that look to be in very good condition with some mods already done to them.Cant wait to get them and try them out..Here a link see what you think..http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Christ, I have a pair of MK1's on here I can't give away. :scratch:
I know Darrel but your along way from me.But if you could box them up and send I would gladly pay shipping fee's
Hi Gary,
Gosh you got those for a good price, although I probably paid too much for mine (in terms of the going rate)! :eyebrows:Quote:
Hi Marco
How are the celestion ditton 15's comeing along.The reason I ask is I just won a pair on the bay that look to be in very good condition with some mods already done to them.Cant wait to get them and try them out..Here a link see what you think..http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
I haven't modified them yet (that's in the pipeline for early next year), but they're used most days in the lounge, and as I've said, sound superb for 30-odd year old stand-mount speakers.
They certainly show what's wrong with most affordable modern designs (and sometimes even more expensive ones) in terms of how they are voiced, which is normally with an emphasis on the upper mid and top end, giving a superficially 'pumped up' and 'exciting' sound, but one which is ultimately fatiguing; and I would argue, fundamentally less natural and realistic.
The Celestions (on the end of my main system) don't in any way sound 'old fashioned' or shut in (far from it) just musical sounding and addictive to listen to, with very good (tight & tuneful), fairly extended, bass for their size.
The Ditton 15s you've won are slightly different from mine, as on the ones I have there are no logos on the ABR units, nor any tweeter level adjusters.
I hope you like 'em, so keep us posted! :cool:
Marco.
They look like very late ones, but I think the tweeter level control may just be an add-on, as I don't remember any other Celestions from this period having them.
I'm in two minds about bi-wiring, but cannot sit totally on either fence, as I've heard it make no difference yet some speakers the difference was palpable (Linn Kabers needed it to work at all due to back emf feeding into the mid driver of the bass unit was flexed).
Good luck with 'em.
Hi Thanks for the replies lads.Yes they have been modded tweeter control added and bi-wire capable.I have just got off the phone with the chap and are as good as pictures make them out to be.Its only stickers on the abr units but look cool enough.They should be here Thursday or Friday so i might have a asbo by the weekend lol.I'm hoping they will sound good with my old technics amp A900MK2 and some black stuff on the 1210mk11.will let you know how i get on..
Ok guys I just picked these up tonight
http://i.ebayimg.com/24/!B77OMI!EWk~...v!2,!~~_12.JPG
A pair of Castle Kendal II, £26.50 Ebay
now I know nothing about castle speakers, but the seller was close and i was a bit bored on sunday so there you go.
Anyway to kick off they're bigger than i thought and because they are ported, they overwhelm my small'ish lounge but i think they may be better upstairs, the drivers are in good visible condition, as are the crossovers, the cabs need some work but thankfully castle seem to use very thick veneers so i cant see any real problem there.
i would just like to get some opinions the best ways to use them, mod, etc. like i say i've never really took much notice of Castle speakers so would love some advice.
1 thing, they have no grills, the guy i got them off said they had foam grills when new, but they got lost of broke, i would like grills on them if i'm going to have em in the house, so where can i get them from, or make some
The original grills were open cell foam, you aren't going to find them in a hurry :rolleyes:
They should sound excellent if fully working, your £20 odd was well worth spending :eyebrows: Get ready for the surprise of your life, Castles are very good speakers indeed... I just hope the tweeters are working, the rest shouldn't be a problem ;)
tweeters are fine and yes they do sound good, just taken one apart and found a nice simple crossover as well as a rather large dead spider, poor bugger probably crawled in when they were made.
Do you think a set of hardboard or thin MDF grill frames with acoustic fabric covers would be ok, and also be able to be velcroed on the the speaker front's
All good news :) The spider probably crawled in through the port :eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac Hawk
Yes i don't see why you can't make some grills as you describe, just leave as much space around the drivers as possible so you don't get reflections from the edge of the wood. If you happen to have a branch of John Lewis near you, they sell some very acousticly transparent material. Not 100% sure on the name of the stuff but Polyester Jersey or somesuch name rings a bell :scratch:
i'm still a bit worried that the speakers will still be a little boomy even upstairs, is there any way this can be reduced, maybe by filling the void inside the cab with loose filling? any suggestions
Castles tended to have a smooth and if anything, slightly dry presentation, so you may not find the need to damp the bass further except possibly lining the port if necessary to minimise "chuffing."
Hi Mike,Quote:
i'm still a bit worried that the speakers will still be a little boomy even upstairs, is there any way this can be reduced, maybe by filling the void inside the cab with loose filling? any suggestions
Unless you have a really bad room and/or an amp with the grip of a damp piece of lettuce, bass boom won't be an issue with the Dittons ;)
Put them on a good pair of stands (I use Atacamas) away from side walls and use them with 'clean' sounding speaker cables (I use Van Damme) and you'll be away nicely! :cool:
Marco.
and just how would do that, what would i use?Quote:
Originally Posted by DSJR
Lol - I've just realised that you were talking about the Castles not the Dittons, sorry, Mike! :doh:
Marco.
Castles, dittons they're all speakers to me mate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
I would apreciate any advice on how to control the bass though, dave said to line the bass ports, but i'm not sure how to do it or what to use.
Also there are some marks on the cabs, not scratches but more like someone has been using them as a table to draw on, so the veneers are "bruised" i think that's the correct term, anyway, i'd also like some sugestions if anyone has any on how to lift these marks, i have a feeling it may be possible with a hot steam iron and a towel but i'm not sure and i don't want to damage the cabs anymore than needs be...
Try the drinking straw trick Mike...used to work for me with Castle Richmonds:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac Hawk
Ian.
Bloody hell i just got an IM off chris, he said someone was bound to come up with the straw trick, great minds and all that...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Walker
Well my Celestion ditton 15xr's turned up today at 6pm.Thought i was going to have to wait until Monday.Anyway they arrived well packed and as described in the add.after unpacking them it was time to hook these babies up ans see what all the fuss is about.well I wasn't disappointed they sounded very crisp clean and detailed.As for some of the comments Ive read on boomy bass well no sign of it after a couple hour of playing various different types of music.In fact If any thing they sounded a little bass shy on some tracks.That maybe down to the still being on the floor,I need to get some stands for them and see what happens.Am I happy ,You bet I am there keepers.
Try different speaker placements. The passive radiators are a bit finicky with their positioning.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy6206
Nice one, Gary. They're not too shabby, are they? ;)
Anyway, keep us posted how you get on - decent stands are a must. I use these Atacamas (but I see the listing has now ended):
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Atacama-SL400-...28b78d&afsrc=1
I'm sure you'll be able to get something similar, though :)
Marco.
You Sound like a happy punter..Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy6206
You know when people talk about stereo equipment, or give an opinion, there are many other factors to take into acount, i.e. room size, furnishings, floor type, placement........ the list goes on and on, and then you have personal taste.
So until you hear a piece of kit for yourself in your lounge you have to take other folks opinions as mearly a guide.
In the past your hifi dealer used to have loan equipment, that they would let you use in your home to see how it sounded which was great, it's been a while since i've bought any new kit, i guess they have there own audition rooms now.
Anyway i'm pleased you like um, they do look sweet.
Well i got myself sorted with a set of Atacama stands for £32 inc of postage and should be here early next week. Also went into town and got more speaker cable.I got them wired up to my techincs A900 mk2 amp with a set of Acoustic research 112's I picked up at the local recycling centre for £5 a couple weeks ago, I did have to change the foam surrounds and now sound really sweet.Now to sit back and spin some of the black stuff :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Ok guys, i need a little more advice with regards to the Castle Kendal II speakers i got of ebay.
At the moment they are both in bits in my work room, the cab's are comming on a treat and, i'll post some before and after shots when they are both finished. Both sets of drives are fine and there are no probs with the crossovers eather, however i've noticed that the cable from the crossover to the drives is different, i.e. the woofer has different (thicker) cable than the tweeter.
is it worth replacing the connecting cables, and if so are there any suggestions as to a good cable to use.
Use the some speaker cable - the same type as you use between amp and speakers. If you're soldering to make the connections, when you do the tweeters, you should be quick & not overheat them.
What do you want to know! I've owned every single model Castle Acoustics made right upto the late '80's. I've been to the old factory more times than i can remember ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac Hawk
whats the best way to reduce bass on the kendal II, they're ported so in my room they are a little too bassyQuote:
Originally Posted by Andre
Pull em out from corners if they are..You could try a bit of foam in the reflex portQuote:
Originally Posted by Jac Hawk
Well my Atacama stands arrived yesterday and what a difference they make.I think they are the SE20.Now should I put spike on the bottom and do I fix speakers to the top or use isolation pads I'm open to suggestions and advice as never use stands before..
Yes you want spikes,fit the spikes but dont tighten the nuts, put them in the postion best suits you.., level em with a small spirit level, then tighten nut, four equal blobs of blue tack ontop of the stands, speakers ontop
Thanks Andre,I also forgot should I fill the stands with sand..
If you can, there should be some small bags with them to put inside the Column to fill with sand . Your best using the dry sand from the early learning centre..Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy6206
If you see any 'SE12' Gary let me know
Ok will do. Found the blue tac and spikes ordered from Atacama £7 odd a set of 8.They really have made a difference in the sound well pleased.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andre
Just need some thing for the AR112's there still on the floor in front of the celestion 15's
If the blu tac is still in its new unused flat state might be best cutting equal squares off to ensure better level between the four pieces instead of making balls.If you dont wanna mess about with blu tack Atacama make Gel pads that may be better ideaQuote:
Originally Posted by tommy6206
If your speakers have real wood veneers, Blu-Tac is the worst thing you can use on top of the stands, as it gets in the grain and won't come out, especially after a few years once it's dried out.
We had great success with little clear plastic "bump-on" style feet from RS (www.rswww.com) - part number 248-451. They're not soft enough to fully decouple the boxes from the stands, yet protect speaker veneers, especially on demo speakers that were hoiked around all over the place. I couldn't tell the different between a speaker with these feet on compared to those cabinet-killing top spikes offered many years ago.
I actually have those on my target stands as the white plastic inserts used to lock together the matching stands (that i dont use) in the misssion's cabs slightly stand pround underside..I also use those tiny mounds for my slim Hard drive cases & HRT Streamer so they don't move about.If Gary wants to use those yes their a good idea but i wouldnt use them generally with my speakers, just all i had at hand at the time but never bothered changing..I also use them tiny things on Granite platforms to stop scratching the surface their sat on, quite universal things really
Great stands, i have a set of se24's that i picked up on ebay for £15, and you're right, they do make a big difference. they can be a little fiddly to set up, especially getting the spikes at the right hight and level, but take your time and you'll be ok, btw i used blutac on the tops of my stands, and it works great, if you're bothered about damaging the cab's finish then i would suggest sticking 4 bits of masking tape on the speaker bottoms where the blutac will be.Quote:
Originally Posted by tommy6206
P.S. i need a set of se12's too
Personally I'd go with Atacama's gel pads. I have had several pairs of speakers where Blu-tac has ripped for squares of the veneer off and the RS style sticky pads never seemed to like sticking to the top plates of my Atacama Nexus 6s whenever I tried them! When I changed to SL600s, I used the gel pads and they're still there as firm as anything a year or two on.
Marco,
I too have a pair of 15XR's that I picked up for £30 from a local 'boot sale! I intend to use these in a second system that I'm putting togther which is going to be valve based. Have you any idea what modification you'd like to do to your 15's? Me, personally, I'll probably be replacing the binding posts, internally re-wiring with pure silver cable (cotton dialectic), the foam looks quite good in mine so i'll keep that. Probably re-build the cross-over.
Hi Andrew,
Ditto! Perhaps we should compare notes during the process? I won't be starting my project though until the New Year :)
Marco.
Any ideas what CAPS your going to use in the cross-over, or if your even going to get a newer replacement? I'm on the look out for some cheap speaker stands. I'll probably looking around cash-generators to see if I can nab a bargain over the next few weeks. What sort of improvements did you notice when you put them on the stands. I must admit that mine have been in my second system (which is a complete Quad 77 setup) sitting on the floor. I have two differing speaker cables to try out Nordost SPM reference, or QED silver. I still don't know whether I'm going to bi-amp modify them yet!! There are a few posts on the net on how to modify them but I've not found anyone reportedly bi-amping them and reporting on the outcome.
Hi Andrew,
I'll probably use my tried and trusted favs: Clarity Cap MRs (which I used to great effect in the Tannoys), providing I can get the right values :)
I'll also fit some silver WBT speaker terminals and rewire them internally with VDH CS Hybrid cable, again as I did with the Tannoys, and also upgrade the inductors with Mundorfs.
The crossovers in question:
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/9...oncrossove.jpg
Marco.
I recently referbed a set of Castle Kendal II's, i used Ansar polyprop caps as suggested by Andre and they made a huge difference, in my opinion, i would rewire using the same cable as you use to connect to the amp, once again i did this as a suggestion of another member, and to be frank i did it cos it made sense, and unless there is something wrong with the binding posts, i would save your money.Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
Many thanks guys for the options regarding the CAPS. I intend keeping the 15's so I'd like to get the best parts for the job. I'm in a quandry as to which cable to use. This second system is going to be used for mainly jazz, a bit of classical and maybe accoustic stuff. I have 3 options, Nordost SPM reference, Make my own out of 99.9999% pure silver with cotton dialetic + EMI + RFI shielding, or good old QED which I used to use in my all Quad set-up, this later got replaced with the SPM reference. My old "Reference" setup included the Michell technoarm and Valhalla interconnects, and boy could I tell I had the silver in that set-up screechingly high treble!! I mainly listen to thrash, prog, heavy metal/rock. I'm now all Cu in the "reference" system and I'm really enjoying the noise it's making, perhaps even more when I get Marco's SR5 power supply at the end of January :eek:. One final question, what sort of height would you use the 15's at??? I'm looking for a cheapo pair of stands to put them on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac Hawk
Hahahaha - dream on... That one's a keeper! :eek: :lol:Quote:
perhaps even more when I get Marco's SR5 power supply at the end of January...
Marco.
:pat:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac Hawk
Be an idea to get shut of those old inductors at some point, i used to use RATA Iron Cores when they were available as i thought them the best Inductor i used at that time, i would now opt for Foil inductors..As for x-over power resistors, i've always used Caddock 'MP930' films..Internal speaker wiring:I've never been a fan of Ag platted Cu wire & was more than happy using Kimber 'TCSS' & 'TCX' i still do.High quality Binding posts such as WBT or J.A.Michell do make a difference aswell.I've always like the Michell amp & speaker posts
The rule of thumb is to get the tweeter/midrange as close to ear height listening position as possibe, so it depends how low you sit, also i have found with my MS45Ti's which i guess are roughly the same size, that having them too low seems to neutralize the bass.Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
I would say the lowest stands to use would be about 40cm up to about 55cm
That 'orrible black cap HAS to go and tbh, any polyprop cap of the correct rating will be a dramatic improvement (I've done it with other speakers with the same type of cap - these were in vast use in UK made speakers back then.
As for wiring, I really wouldn't go mad, as the inherant distortions in the drive units, combined with dispersion issues caused by the rebated baffle would mask much of the finer points of fancy silver wires. hey, I'm not being over-critical, just trying to put a little perspective in here..