Lampizator Level 7

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Originally Posted by tonerei

Lads on a Level4 reading a variety of threads a few valves are suggested for the ECC40 valves. Tungsram, Phillips white label and on occasion some strange variants.
What valves will work in that position and where are you buying them? Thanks in advance.

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Most are the same...tall with the skirt. i have seen short ones with the skirt by eother Sonotone or Selectron. Then there is the squat no skirt Tungram, which i though was the only different construction. However, I have since seen Siemens which had identical construction.

The consensus is that the Mullards CV3884 are the worst, in that they are the least robust. All ECC40 tubes sound good, but the Tungram squat construction tube type seems to shade the other types in tersm of midrange and bass.

In terms of skirted tubes, I have seen Mullards, Phillips, Triotron, Selectron and Sonotone. I think Siemens ALSO has a skirted version too.

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Originally Posted by _JL_

Hi Justin,

Very nice tubes you have there. I own the two-box L7 DAC and I can confirm the effect of tube rolling. You may also want to roll the rectifier tube as well, yours' 6x5 or 5U4G? I found the Raytheon 6x5 much better than the Russian counterpart.

I wonder if you just plug the 6A3 into the Big7 and run it without modification? I think the 6A3 has 6 volt filament while the 45/2A3 has 2.5V so that means the 6A3 will be running with a very low filament voltage: ~2.5V vs 6V. Similar for the VT-52 which has 7V filament. This may work just fine as tubes are very resilient.

Happy listening.

Jack

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Consensus is that for 6x5, the TungSol metal base is best (very hard to find), followed by RCA and Sylvania ceramic bases. All US rectis tend to beat the Russian ones too.

Regarding the L7 tube setting, the circuit auto balances itself for total wattage, so whatever combo of volts and amps that get to 4.5w max and 6.5w max will work....so I have been told.

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Originally Posted by User211

ECC40 doesn't have much in the way of rolling options. Most were made by Tungsram. I have some Tungsram totally NOS apart from 3 hours use. PM if interested.

Does your Lampi have any other sockets?

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No, most were the skirted kind made by Phillips. Tungsram appears to be better! Send a pair to Lukasz if you can, as I dont think he has heard them. My local guys no longer has any.

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Originally Posted by wisnon

No, most were the skirted kind made by Phillips. Tungsram appears to be better! Send a pair to Lukasz if you can, as I dont think he has heard them. My local guys no longer has any.

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Er yup sorry Norm memory failed me there.

RCA 6X5s ceramic base seem to be managing to stay in the Lampi at the mo. They can't be bad. I have two pairs - unfortunately the black plates don't work. I'm listening to greys now. Got a full refund on the blacks but they were peanuts anyway.

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Originally Posted by User211

The Sylvania VT52 is 6.3V. Lucasz says it is fine to use them, as is the 6A3.

I really don't like the Raytheon, which just goes to show.

You are right about voltages otherwise. 6A3 - don't try it in a 2A3 setup L7. It sounds distorted.

As I have said you exceed allowable Wattage with 6A3 in the 2A3 position.

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Interesting. The bias current is rather low in the L7 so it may not be too big an issue. I have been researching this very topic recently, i.e., running filament at below-spec voltage, and so far the findings with respect to tube life is inconclusive. However if it sounds good then that's what counts.

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Originally Posted by wisnon

Consensus is that for 6x5, the TungSol metal base is best (very hard to find), followed by RCA and Sylvania ceramic bases. All US rectis tend to beat the Russian ones too.

Regarding the L7 tube setting, the circuit auto balances itself for total wattage, so whatever combo of volts and amps that get to 4.5w max and 6.5w max will work....so I have been told.

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I never saw Tungsol metal base before. Need to start looking. For the RCA/Sylvania ceramic bases are their base in white color? I have some RCA/Sylvania ones but the base is not in white ceramic color. I'll need to try those sometimes.

I am not certain but I suspect the L7 is cathode-biased so the bias will stabilize itself. I'm not sure what 'wattage' is referring to. Is it the filament wattage or plate dissipation?

Can someone who might have a clue about how this circuit actually works please step in and explain it simply? It would be appreciated by quite a few people I am sure.

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Originally Posted by wisnon

Most are the same...tall with the skirt. i have seen short ones with the skirt by eother Sonotone or Selectron. Then there is the squat no skirt Tungram, which i though was the only different construction. However, I have since seen Siemens which had identical construction.

The consensus is that the Mullards CV3884 are the worst, in that they are the least robust. All ECC40 tubes sound good, but the Tungram squat construction tube type seems to shade the other types in tersm of midrange and bass.

In terms of skirted tubes, I have seen Mullards, Phillips, Triotron, Selectron and Sonotone. I think Siemens ALSO has a skirted version too.

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Thanks Norman swapped out whatever Lukasz supplied for a Sylvannia kindly donated to me. Haven't pulled out the ECC40's but take it they are Mullards?
Where did you get the Tungsram valves? Are there various Tungsram styles or is whatever one I find squat construction
Are these the ones? http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Tungsram-ECC4...-/390690968369

or these http://pmcomponentsnos.co.uk/Tungsram-ECC40 Same shop different price

Yes they are the ones I have.

Singularly stupid pin out on them though, which makes it hard to line up in the Lampi. Make very sure the nipple in the glass lines up with the red marker Lucasz or someone will have put on the valve base. It is perfectly possible to put it in the wrong way.

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Originally Posted by User211

Yes they are the ones I have.

Singularly stupid pin out on them though, which makes it hard to line up in the Lampi. Make very sure the nipple in the glass lines up with the red marker Lucasz or someone will have put on the valve base. It is perfectly possible to put it in the wrong way.

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Thanks Justin, Will give them a go and hopefully will put them in right. Not sure Why Lukasz went with the notion of installing the valves in the base:scratch:
Sorry this is a Big7 thread so to move it back on topic do owners think it is a bit of work of art? Not sure has he just managed to stumble upon the design of clear/semi clear perspex lid. For me it is an understated art piece that just happens to sound better than anything else I have heard to date.

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Originally Posted by tonerei

Thanks Norman swapped out whatever Lukasz supplied for a Sylvannia kindly donated to me. Haven't pulled out the ECC40's but take it they are Mullards?
Where did you get the Tungsram valves? Are there various Tungsram styles or is whatever one I find squat construction
Are these the ones? http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Tungsram-ECC4...-/390690968369

or these http://pmcomponentsnos.co.uk/Tungsram-ECC40 Same shop different price

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Yes, That is the Tungsram I was talking about.

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Originally Posted by _JL_

I never saw Tungsol metal base before. Need to start looking. For the RCA/Sylvania ceramic bases are their base in white color? I have some RCA/Sylvania ones but the base is not in white ceramic color. I'll need to try those sometimes.

I am not certain but I suspect the L7 is cathode-biased so the bias will stabilize itself. I'm not sure what 'wattage' is referring to. Is it the filament wattage or plate dissipation?

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Sorry, my bad. Black or brown base, not white base.

TSol metal base is verrrry hard to find. I have never seen it, but the yanks have gone out of their way to vouch for the quality…From a practical point of view, just try fro black/brown base RCA/Syl. 6x5.

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Originally Posted by User211

Yes they are the ones I have.

Singularly stupid pin out on them though, which makes it hard to line up in the Lampi. Make very sure the nipple in the glass lines up with the red marker Lucasz or someone will have put on the valve base. It is perfectly possible to put it in the wrong way.

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Yes, just use an indelible marker to line up the nipple correctly with the mark made on the socket.

The underside mounting was to allow tube rolls without opening the case and to allow the component to be stacked in a normal audio rack.

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Originally Posted by wisnon

Yes, just use an indelible marker to line up the nipple correctly with the mark made on the socket.

The underside mounting was to allow tube rolls without opening the case and to allow the component to be stacked in a normal audio rack.

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The correct base for a ecc40 prevents incorrect lineup.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2N1gxNj...Nw!~~60_35.JPG

I have rolled a bunch of tubes. 6a3 of any brand are very good . the tonsil as some regard as really good are but in truth I prefer the Sylvania and relabled Sylvania's over it. the green writing or green leaf are very good. if looking for new the Sophia princess blacks are also very good. thevt52 are ok but lack a bit. the psvane 101d metal is nice but thin in comparison to the 6a3. I do feel the rolling is fantastic to allow us to tailor our systems to get the sound we crave and cheap . doing the rolling in the dac is better than in cables and the change is massive in some cases.
I wish I could write much more of what I hear but lack the time to do so .
rolling a lampi is the most fun I have had in audio in a long time. roll on people.
al

Al have you tried 6B4Gs with an adaptor yet? If so what did you think?

Anyone with a pair of ELROG 300Bs is most welcome here. Just state which bottle of expensive wine you require before you show up:)

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Originally Posted by lurcher

The correct base for a ecc40 prevents incorrect lineup.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2N1gxNj...Nw!~~60_35.JPG

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Looks rare and NOS but capable of using the nipple. Most ECC40 sockets on ebay have no such provision. Good find Nick.

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Originally Posted by User211

Looks rare and NOS but capable of using the nipple. Most ECC40 sockets on ebay have no such provision. Good find Nick.

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This plugs into the valve and the socket on the LZ? is there space i.e. will it end up pushing the valve to high and it ends up protruding from the base? (Should turn mind upside down to check first!!) Where did you locate this socket Nick?

I have some somewhere, the ecc40 is a nice sounding valves used it for a number of things. This chap seems to have a few.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/B8A-RIMLOC...item3f35fa7d26

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Originally Posted by lurcher

I have some somewhere, the ecc40 is a nice sounding valves used it for a number of things. This chap seems to have a few.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/B8A-RIMLOC...item3f35fa7d26

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Nick that is chassis mounting it would need to be doctored to work on LZ.

Not saying you should fit it, just that its the correct socket for a ecc40 (b8a rimlock) if it had used them there would be no chance of the valve being inserted incorrectly.

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Originally Posted by lurcher

Not saying you should fit it, just that its the correct socket for a ecc40 (b8a rimlock) if it had used them there would be no chance of the valve being inserted incorrectly.

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I know Nick it just looked like your original photo was of one that could be fitted to either the socket or valve and if it cost £3.50 I would get it to be sure.

Lukasz doesn't recommend any tube rolling and suggests the valves will last 10+yrs as they are very under stressed hence he either skimped or didn't see the need.
Or just didn't cop it.

No more news about the HeadDAC BIG 7 (Big7 with built-in Headphone AMP) ?

Nice long term Lampi review here:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=130389.0

He writes well. But then you have to ask yourself how much does wanky prose count for over actually sitting in front of the things for real and deciding for yourself whether he is talking b****x or not:D?

I rate the later. But if the literacy appeals enough to get you in front of these products in the first place I guess it has achieved the effect I presume he wanted.

LoL

Too funny!

It made the front page…

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/co...living-lampis/

I have a few sets of the tubes. The adaptors I bought do not work. They are wired wrong. I intend to fix them soon. And report back. So far the leader for me is 6a3. But a friend who had my tubes a whole bunch feels the 300 B carbon just edged them out. And I truly trust his call. I have heard his set up and it's very clean and transparent. The improvement is minor but it's there.
I also have Elrogs coming and a few others.
At conclusion rolling tubes is a cheap way to change ones sound signature and is fun an rewarding. It allows me to set the mood if not explore sounds without breaking the bank.
Al

Those Sophia Carbons are 2.5v 300Bs, not the normal 5v 300b.

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Originally Posted by wisnon

LoL

Too funny!

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Pretty rough on the chap that wrote it, but it made a point. Anyway, looks like he's done OK with it:)

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Originally Posted by ALRAINBOW

I have a few sets of the tubes. The adaptors I bought do not work. They are wired wrong. I intend to fix them soon. And report back. So far the leader for me is 6a3. But a friend who had my tubes a whole bunch feels the 300 B carbon just edged them out. And I truly trust his call. I have heard his set up and it's very clean and transparent. The improvement is minor but it's there.
I also have Elrogs coming and a few others.
At conclusion rolling tubes is a cheap way to change ones sound signature and is fun an rewarding. It allows me to set the mood if not explore sounds without breaking the bank.
Al

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Yeah I hope the sockets last Al. Change of speaker means I'm evaluating them all again. Please post on the ELROGs I'm most interested.

Some great reading going on over at the Wam.

I dunno where the assertion that a Big 7 costs £10K came from though. Mine cost £4K less than that. A new AN 4.1 is way over £10K.

Some good points/tempers flaring in classic Wam styleeee. No place like the Wam:)

I actually agree with some of the anti statements. When people speak their minds on topics they feel emotional about it really does get interesting.

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Originally Posted by User211

Some great reading going on over at the Wam.

I dunno where the assertion that a Big 7 costs £10K came from though. Mine cost £4K less than that. A new AN 4.1 is way over £10K.

Some good points/tempers flaring in classic Wam styleeee. No place like the Wam:)

I actually agree with some of the anti statements. When people speak their minds on topics they feel emotional about it really does get interesting.

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I think 10k is the dollar figure

Sounds about right but I did go cheap i.e. no DSD and 6X5 recti. But I have 274Bs in the preamp so boring to meet up with that again in a DAC. Besides, the 1950s Tungsram 6X5 is an absolute peach I am well happy with.

I did some more tube rolling on my Lampi DAC 7. It's the two-box version but I have mod the filament supply voltage to allow more precise control of the voltage and with improved ripple performance.

Rectifier: 6x5
So far I tried the stock Russian 6x5 (coarse sound), Raytheon 6x5GT and Sylvania 6x5GT. I liked the Raytheon the best as it has the best balance between resolution and refinement. The Sylvania is too polite in comparison. Note it could be due to the samples I have as I'm not sure the ones I have are NOS or not.

Output Tube:
EH 2A3 - This is the stock tube and I found it to lack life and extensions. Not recommended.
Sovtek 2A3 - This one is a surprise as it sounds fairly good. Good extensions and resolutions. Not the ultimate in refinement but with incisive bite. Sounds best when run with low filament (1.8V vs 2.5V). Good value for money.
EML 45/45 Mesh - Refined but lacks some excitement. Note the 45s I have may be too used so newer tubes may sound better. Not recommended.
EML 2A3/2A3 Mesh - The solid plate 2A3 sounds more extended than the 45 and have better resolution. The mesh plate 2A3, however, is even better by a wide margin. It has the best balance and resolution, refined and yet lively. The mesh plate 2A3 is by far the best in my L7 by a wide margin. Highly recommended.

I'd still need to try some old stock 45 of which there are plenty of variants - even mesh plates. May also get some 6A3 and 101D (or even 205D) to try as well. This DAC is a tube-roller's dream as the output stage is so simple and the power supply is easy to mod.

Happy listening!

An update - the Psvane 101D-L and 205D-L arrived. These tubes have 4.5v filament.

The 101D-L can be run under the 45 setting in my L7. The secret is the lower filament current (1A vs 1.5A for the 45) and this results in less voltage drop by the filament supply resistors, thus leading to higher than 2.5V actual filament voltage. It is still a bit low - ~3.9V in my L7. I also tried it with the 2A3 setting but the resultant voltage is too high at ~5V.

The 101D-L is running at ~11.5mA bias current in my L7. This is higher than the spec (9mA) so the tube is being run under high load conditions. Not sure if this will affect tube life in the long run. It's probably fine for the Psvane 101D but I certainly won't risk any WE 101D with this operating condition.

The 205D-L by comparison is designed for output stage so it works fine at such bias current. It draws 1.6A filament current so I have to run it at the 2A3 setting to arrive at ~4.4V filament voltage, which is about right for the 205D.

Now for the sound, my brief impression is that the 101D sounds better than the 205D, with more air, transparency, and life. Comparing to my current reference - EML 2A3 Mesh the 101D is more polite, less airy, and with less micro-details. So the EML 2A3 Mesh is still the best by far. Note that I have only run the 101D/205D for minutes so their sound may change upon further run-in.

The thing about the L7 is that the filament supply is not regulated and is tuned by dropping resistors. Thus I think it is a good idea to have a UX4 test adapter to check the actual operating conditions before running a new tube for the long run.

Happy new year everyone!

Hi Jack - I'd be interested to know what you make of the 6A3. I tried it again in the 2A3 switch position and didn't hear the distortion I thought I did last time I tried it. Odd.

I think the only thing for a level 7 owner to do is stock up on about half a dozen triodes and then decide for themselves. Due to the cost of the DAC most owners will do this anyway as it is relatively small beer unless you decide to pay ridiculous premiums for valves that cannot possibly justify their price. At the end of the day systems and ears vary.

That said the most sensible short list of valves to try come from reading threads like this. The trouble is there are conflicts as people hear different things.

It is interesting that 101D came out better than 205D even though it was a less than optimal electrical match. Half the reason for the marked variance in sound when trying different valves in this DAC is that some will be operating at quite some distance from their supposed optimal settings.

I was at the 2008 HK Hi-Fi show when staying in Mongkok, Jack. Very nearly as good as Munich in terms of gear.

HNY.

Justin

HNY Justin,

I dont know where you guys manage to find cheap VT52 tubes. i never seem to be able to find that. LoL

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Originally Posted by User211

The MSB DACs were in a lot of rooms at Munich 2011. From what I can remember, they all sounded great. This was probably my fave room using one. Video shot by me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CCTuCc8nqBw

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I am a great fan of msb , using their power amp with superb results for quite a while now .

one day hope to try the msb dac but the lampi would also do nice

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Originally Posted by wisnon

HNY Justin,

I dont know where you guys manage to find cheap VT52 tubes. i never seem to be able to find that. LoL

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Yo Norman I'll send you mine. Happy Lampizating New Year!!!:)

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Originally Posted by User211

Yo Norman I'll send you mine. Happy Lampizating New Year!!!:)

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2015 should be a great year for everything, including Lampizating. LoL

Fully foo'd.

Golden Gate Big 7

Just discovered there is a manual for all Lampi DACs,

From that manual:

DHT triodes used in our Level7 and Big 7 DAC are yet another can of worms. Most
DHT tubes have the same base (four pin) and the same pinout (two fat legs are
heaters and cathode, two slim legs are Grid and Anode. The problem is that these
tubes have completely different heater demands. Our DAC7 is designed to accept
ALL KNOWN dht triodes from this group: 101D, 45, 245, 345, 6A3, 2A3, 300B.
People keep discovering more and more compatible triode types every month.
How is it possible to run so many triode types in one circuit ? DON’T THEY HAVE
DIFFERENT HEATERS ?
Our genius circuit automatically detects the current demand and adjusts voltage
accordingly. We added a switch which divides the tubes into two groups: high heaters
and low heaters. High heaters are 2A3, 300B, 6A3 and low heaters are 101D, 45, 245,
345.
Our favorite tubes are: (New) Sovtek and Electro Harmonics 2A3 - this is actually the
same tube but Sovtek is a cheaper brand.
45 by Emission Labs (New). 245 and 345 NOS from Sylvania, Tung-Sol and RCA.
101D by Psvane WE Replica (New). Nos 6A3 from any US brand. 300B Mesh Black
from Psvane.

User211 Stated:

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They (the 6A3’s) are NOT good in the 2A3 position - they sound distorted. They go over the 6.2 Watts max I found out later - 6.5 I am told.

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Later User211 Wrote:

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6A3 - don't try it in a 2A3 setup L7. It sounds distorted.

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Later, User211 stated:

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Hi Jack - I'd be interested to know what you make of the 6A3. I tried it again in the 2A3 switch position and didn't hear the distortion I thought I did last time I tried it. Odd.

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Because of the above posts, I used the 6A3's in the 45 switched position but wasn’t really happy with some stridency I heard in the upper frequency range. I later tried them in the 2A3 position and they sounded quite superb, substantially better than the much more expensive Emmission Labs 45’s that came with the DAC! However, when I listened to the system a day or 2 later, I was hearing objectionable distortion like User211 stated above -- distortion one time, the next NONE!

However, in an even later post User211 provided a link to a “Manual” for all Lampi DAC’s (BTW, this was a valuable find; Lukasz did a wonderful job of providing information, not commonly found in Manuals. Kudos to Lukasz!)

From the manual, User211 provided the following:

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Our genius circuit automatically detects the current demand and adjusts voltage accordingly. We added a switch which divides the tubes into two groups: high heaters and low heaters. High heaters are 2A3, 300B, 6A3 and low heaters are 101D, 45, 245, 345.

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.
This would suggest that the 6A3 should be run in the 2A3 switched positon. Which, based on my initial finding, sounded darn good!

But, since both I and User211 had a positive experience and then later, a distorted one, I’m wondering what the heck is going on?

Is the “genius circuit” not automatically detecting the current demand and adjusting according? Between sessions, I used my remote's Off button, to I assume, put the DAC in the standby mode. NOTE: I didn’t use the On/Off toggle in the back of the unit.

[BTW, as an aside, is this what everyone does between listening sessions: engage the front Lampi button, or in the case of using a remote, use its Off button, to put the unit in Standby?]

I wonder if using the remote's Off button one day and then its On button the next day, did something to cause the “genius circuit” to NOT adjust properly?

Ultimately however, should the 6A3 be run in the 2A3 positon and how can I get it to run undistorted, the way I first heard it? How are others running the 6A3 and is distortion ever a problem?

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Originally Posted by Mrmb

User211 Stated:
Later User211 Wrote:

Later, User211 stated:

Because of the above posts, I used the 6A3's in the 45 switched position but wasn’t really happy with some stridency I heard in the upper frequency range. I later tried them in the 2A3 position and they sounded quite superb, substantially better than the much more expensive Emmission Labs 45’s that came with the DAC! However, when I listened to the system a day or 2 later, I was hearing objectionable distortion like User211 stated above -- distortion one time, the next NONE!

However, in an even later post User211 provided a link to a “Manual” for all Lampi DAC’s (BTW, this was a valuable find; Lukasz did a wonderful job of providing information, not commonly found in Manuals. Kudos to Lukasz!)

From the manual, User211 provided the following: .
This would suggest that the 6A3 should be run in the 2A3 switched positon. Which, based on my initial finding, sounded darn good!

But, since both I and User211 had a positive experience and then later, a distorted one, I’m wondering what the heck is going on?

Is the “genius circuit” not automatically detecting the current demand and adjusting according? Between sessions, I used my remote's Off button, to I assume, put the DAC in the standby mode. NOTE: I didn’t use the On/Off toggle in the back of the unit.

[BTW, as an aside, is this what everyone does between listening sessions: engage the front Lampi button, or in the case of using a remote, use its Off button, to put the unit in Standby?]

I wonder if using the remote's Off button one day and then its On button the next day, did something to cause the “genius circuit” to NOT adjust properly?

Ultimately however, should the 6A3 be run in the 2A3 positon and how can I get it to run undistorted, the way I first heard it? How are others running the 6A3 and is distortion ever a problem?

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I think we need try and post results. I had a nine pcb b7 and niw a pcb they do act different to the same tubes
This is a learning curve experience. We need to just try and post. Also there is taste here as well. I do remeber some times hearing distortion at times with some tubes. But consider the NOS factor as well there not new tubes. So as individuals they may act different. Just some thoughts to consider
Al

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Originally Posted by ALRAINBOW

I think we need try and post results. I had a nine pcb b7 and niw a pcb they do act different to the same tubes
This is a learning curve experience. We need to just try and post. Also there is taste here as well. I do remeber some times hearing distortion at times with some tubes. But consider the NOS factor as well there not new tubes. So as individuals they may act different. Just some thoughts to consider
Al

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BTW Al, I've enjoyed your posts here and elsewhere, especially your "B7" comments and tube-rolling results.


I agree, there are many variables to consider. But when User211 expressed a similar distortion experience as mine, I found it somewhat coincidental, that our NOS 6A3's themselves, could be an issue. However, stranger things have happened.

At any rate, the sharing of additional tube rolling experiences (especially with 6A3's) was my post's goal and hopefully will result in a better understanding of what's going on and what tubes everyone is finding to be their preference in their Lampi 7's.

Cheers,

-Mike

Hi Mike,

I have been running 6A3 in the high heater position for a good long while. They have sounded fine and for some reason I have not heard the distortion I knew I heard before.

Anyway, on balance they are getting the most usage of all the triodes I have bought. They must therefore be my favourite. I am itching to try the more expensive Psvane 101D though.

One thing I am thinking could be a possibility is the 6A3s I have probably haven't been run for decades for any period of time, and the high heater just pushed them into a funny state. See what I said about the Raytheon rectifier being noisy for 5 minutes. Maybe they have just stabilised now? Who knows...

And yeah - better than smooth plate EML 45s by a long shot I think. For £60 odd quid:lol:

Hi User211, by "high heater", would that be with the 7’s toggle in the 45 position (i.e., not the 2A3) position?

I listened extensively today with the 6A3 in the 2A3 position. Simple, less complex music (e.g., Rebecca Pigeon/Spanish Harlem) sounds really good. More complex orchestral music &/or rock seems to become a little congested (maybe distorted?). I still remain firmly ensconced in the non-committal auditioning stage however....

As of yet, I haven’t rolled the Shuguang 274B rectifier, but am considering a WE422A or Mullard Metal Base 5AR4.

Obviously there are significant system and personal variables that affect judging whether one tube in our DAC tops another. However, rather than drop bucks on fairly expensive tubes that I will never use – i.e., NOS 2A3’s, NOS 245/345 Globes, NOS VT52’s, Psvane Replica 101D’s, etc., verses the EML 45’s that were shipped with my DAC, I’m wondering where I should go from the EML 45’s or the NOS Sylvania 6A3’s that I now own? I’m intrigued by the Psvane Replica 101d, but because of cost have some reservations! Suggestions/recommendations...??

See post #143 for heater description - so it is the opposite of what you have said.

I don't get any congestion with 6A3 no matter what the music type - complex or simple. Given the cost of the DAC $200 for a pair of triodes is small fry I think.

I also have the Psvane Hi-Fi series 300B on loan but it sounds so damn clean - like everything has been polished, literally, I don't like it. So that's not recommended by me at least. All I can suggest is that you read my descriptions of the triodes I have used and take your pick.

I'm back on VT-52 for the moment. I like to change but the three in most constant use are 6A3, Psvane 2A3 and VT-52. VT-52 is the most rolled off HF wise. It'd be interesting to see how close the "genius circuit" is getting to VT-52s supposed optimal running parameters. I'm betting it isn't that close. I still like it though:)