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Martin would have one of my earlier bearings which may permit the use of the plastic cover.Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
On the later batches of bearings, the three locating posts which locate into the coil assembly are longer in order to obtain improved rigidity and concentricity.
The plastic cover will not fit onto the coil assembly with these bearings fitted as the longer posts interfere with the tangs on the plastic cover.
Lol - not a problem, mate. I fully understand. When I get my own bearing base plate, I'll ask Anthony to fit it. He'll then be able to disconnect/be careful of the surrounding electronics, as is necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzBones
It'll be fitted exactly the same way as yours, though, as your method is very thorough!
It'll be an interesting one when that happens, as with me doing the base plate mod last, I'll be able to very accurately ascertain what sonic benefits it brings :)
Marco.
That'll be good to know, Marco, as my base plate mod is lost behind many other mods since.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Hi Marco, if you follow the way I fixed my base plate, with instructions from Mike N, using the additional bolts (x 3), DO NOT, REPEAT do not, Araldite the base plate as you will NEVER be able to get the MN bearing out again should this be required as with the additional three bolts the are fixed upwards from the bottom of the base plate up into the flange of the MN bearing. A little bit of accurate drilling is required with the latter. Watch and learn and sweat a little mate :lol: Have a word with Mike as my feelings are that you could Araldite the base plate using the standard method three bolt fixing from above only.... I say this as you are using a much lighter platter than before?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
For the time being I've settled on 10MM thick Arcomat (two 5mm bonded together) to approach the best of both worlds... sounds good. Got me eye on a Furutech Monza LP stabilzer.. fecking expensive but works good.
Cheers and are you soaked in Wales?
Ron
I bonded and bolted my base plate to the chassis, but that definitely required me to separate the 3-part chassis and get to the casting from underneath. That way, I can remove the bearing if need be.
Martin, how is your MN bearing secured, the required three bolts from above as per standard fixture and only this plus MN's five chassis bolts? Inclusive of this, mine has an additional three opposing bolts from underneath the base plate itself, (counter sunk) to enable proper mating with the pan casting, thread screwed 4mm bolts into the MN bearing flange itself, a total of six holes, evenly spaced in the bearing flange instead of three. This was pre-assembled prior to the five bolt security to the Tech's ali cast pan. I used better flanged self locking nuts and car gasketing paste, in lieu of Araldite, to mate everything tightly, the chassis pan is not entirely flat, even after removing the illuminated factory boss thats why the MN BB really requires the five bolt fixing method IMO. The gasketing material can be broken to enable the whole assembly to come apart and to seperate bearing from base plate. Marco did post pictures, on my behalf, of what I had done... I'm bloody useless at getting a picture posted as well as housework and cooking but the wife still loves me I think? :eyebrows:Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
This 'tweaking the Tech' is more interesting than space exploration, Yes ?:rolleyes:
Ron
Yes. Bolts into threaded holes in the base plate, as opposed to the awful self-tappers in the original bearing. It seems tight enough for the purpose of holding everything rigid. I used Araldite for bonding, plus the 5 bolts.Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzBones
It *is* fun but I'm happy listening to the results rather than constant tinkering. Short of a possible replacement arm cable, I'm not sure there's anywhere else to go with it now.Quote:
This 'tweaking the Tech' is more interesting than space exploration, Yes ?:rolleyes:
Guys,
You CAN araldite the base plate into place and still get access to the MN bearing no problems. I DONT have any nuts or bolts holding my base plate in place. The main reason behing this was to keep the structural integrity and rigidity of the plinth. I have detected no negative effects to my decks sonics so far.
Andy
Does anyone know where C5 and C6 is on the circuit board? I cannot seem to find it.
On my circuit board - C1 is 470uF - 50V.
An additional capacitor is across D1 and the AC Pin 1. Is this cap needed? I would say no, but I wanted to get oppinions first.
My turntable is designed for USA use. 25 years old - and still kicking!!!
C5 and C6 are the two noise or transient bipass caps across the input to the rectifier,
just above CI. They are located hard up against the rectifier chip.
If you have an older model, these Caps may be attached below the PCB as they were
a later addition to the early versions of the Circuit.