Any more comments like that LingLing or the one earlier calling someone a prick and your posting rights will be removed. Thank you.
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Any more comments like that LingLing or the one earlier calling someone a prick and your posting rights will be removed. Thank you.
I might have missed something along the way but could someone explain where the 15v in is coming from?
Fair do's Leo.Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Exactly !Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC
Chris:)
I'm not sure why you would put "helpful" in quotation marks, as I never said or even implied that I'm helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stratmangler
It was actually supposed to be a quote to Mr Linglings post :doh:Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveC
"lingling", allow me to 'help' you then... If you don't start to behave you're banned for a week.Quote:
I'm not sure why you would put "helpful" in quotation marks, as I never said or even implied that I'm helpful.
Is that helpful enough? ;)
Marco.
Its obvious now your just here to thread crap, I can guarantee you'll be booted off here if you continueQuote:
Originally Posted by lingling1337
Murata don't seem to offer their switching regs with 10v output, the nearest they do is 12v so to use that you'd have to increase the external supply voltage to 15v for it to work properlyQuote:
Originally Posted by trailer
iCheers Leo,Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
So it's only if you go down the Murata road then.
Isn't the new PSU 15v? :interesting:
Would something like this work?
Hi Marco,Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
You know me - always wanting to be helpful, can I be even more helpful than you and suggest that he's banned for a lifetime or even longer :) , irrespective of future behaviour - his past behaviour more than justifies this 'help' IMHO.
Your call of course.:)
He seems to be behaving now, Dave, but he'll be getting watched very carefully.
Once thing I must insist on, though, is first name and location details from him, so, lingling............
What is your proper first name and your approximate location details?
You will also need to pop into the 'Welcome' area and introduce yourself to people. Please do this A.S.A.P, thank you!
Marco.
Yes and noQuote:
Originally Posted by trailer
Remember theres more than one reg in the 7520
Using the three pin 5v rated Murata to replace the 5v reg in the dac section will work with the external 12v supply and probably be the safest bet (I can't guarantee 100% because I've not tried this Murata reg)
You'd need the higher rated external supply if you want to replace the 10v reg supplying the output stage with the three pin 12v rated Murata
A note of caution though, some other available external supplies can measure higher on the output than their rated at which may get the voltage a little too close to the big caps max rating on the 7520 DC input.
These are the sort of mods you have to be very careful with;)
I'd imagine Stan will give out more details for his new external supply soon as its available
Thanks again. Just been out of the loop for a week or two and catching up on the latest and greatest!
That looks to be unregulated output, although its badged as 15v DC it could measure as high as 20v if used on a light load which means not suitableQuote:
Originally Posted by lingling1337
If your unsure you should stick with what the manufacturer/designer of the dac recommends, its the only way to be sure what you use is suitable
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
May I direct you to post #885 Marco....
Hi Neal,
That's outrageous. Why didn't you report it at the time? :(
Trouble is, I don't look at this part of the forum very much...
Mmm... I'll let it slide for the moment, as it doesn't seem appropriate now to act so long after the event, *but* rest assured that Mr 'lingling' is now well and truly on my radar ;)
Guys,
As we can't be everywhere, and so don't always spot things, can I take this opportunity to remind people that if anyone is subjected to abusive remarks like that to contact a member of the management team immediately so we can deal with it accordingly - cheers!
Marco.
Will do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Chris:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
OK will do Marco, I let it slide at the time as I thought Leo had 'clocked' him already and really it was 'water of a ducks back' given that he was new......I was hoping his posting attitude would improve......
:offtopic: I have a crazy idea, lets use this thread to discuss mods to the 7520.
In my usual impetuous style I couldn't wait any longer and did the MLC5/6 mod this evening despite my misgivings.
Hmmmm, very early days but not looking good so far compared to the 4032. On the plus side the vocals seem a touch warmer and more human and the overall sound is maybe a bit more realistic. But on the down side the bass is boomier while, unexpectedly, there also seems to be a sibilance effect, if a track has cymbals or similar they completely dominate the music while Natalie Imbruglia appears to have developed a whistling gap in her teeth.
Worst of all, it appears to have lost the toe-tap-inducing quality of the 4032, though that may have been the fact I was listening critically rather than just relaxing and enjoying.
I'm using a thoroughly run in, but unused since the 4032 arrived, 4562, all else standard.
But it is extremely early days, wouldn't have posted about it yet but someone had to get the thread back on track. It'll have plenty of time to run in as I'm going to have to learn how to solder if I'm to return to the 4032.
Just thought I'd stop by.
The amp's been running for ~150 hours now, the sound has improved leaps and bounds in the past couple of days.
Running 2 x 4562NA at the moment. I have the THS4032 in it's packaging, I may pop it in if the fancy takes me, but the clarity has really started to come through. The bass has tightened up nicely :punch: and the atonality has cleared up a treat. The reverb (something the K701's do exceptionally well imo) is almost haunting on occasion, very nice!
It's picking up ridiculous amounts of detail, e.g. cracks and pops from old recordings. I was worried something was broken initially, then it occured to me that it was the recording. :)
I can't imagine the sound will change much beyond this, in which case I'll be very happy. :eek:
Have you done the MLC mods? BTW, I think you mean tonality :)Quote:
Originally Posted by ZebuTheOxen
You just can't resist having a dig at anyone can you, my friend?Quote:
Originally Posted by lingling1337
From the Oxford English Dictionary:
atonal
/ayton’l/
• adjective: Music not written in any key or mode.
— DERIVATIVES atonality noun.
Remember that you ex-colonial types are only borrowing the English language for a while before you adopt Spanish. In the meantime, make an effort to understand it.
I haven't done the MLC mods, I think it's probably better to see how it runs in before I do. It mightn't need it.
The atonality I was describing was the 'one note bass' mentioned earlier in the thread. Bass seems much more like part of the music instead of a weapon of war now :)
Lo siento, Sr. Wazoo. Por el explicacion de Zebu, lo entiendo en todo. Pero no necesitas ser pendejo.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Grand Wazoo
There you go again.Quote:
Originally Posted by lingling1337
If you want to call me an asshole in Spanish, that's fine. No-one would expect anything else from you.
You need to learn the difference between humour (with a 'u') and insult. Friendly banter and rudeness.
You really are a star!!
Lo siento, no hay problema mariconcito. Tienes pluma magnifica.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Grand Wazoo
Which part of this did you not understand?
Either you comply and do as I request, or I ban you. Your call!Quote:
Once thing I must insist on, though, is first name and location details from him, so, lingling............
What is your proper first name and your approximate location details?
You will also need to pop into the 'Welcome' area and introduce yourself to people. Please do this A.S.A.P, thank you!
Marco.
Marco.
Even my patience is starting to wear thin now
Me llamo Hugh, my approximate location is the United States.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
Ding-a-ling is obviously going the extra mile to try and comply with the basic requirements of being a valued member of the forum. I vote that in future we leave him COMPLETELY alone in his own little world.
Cheers,
Hi Stan,
I've been doing a bit research into the Murata 7805SR-C and I've noticed that it's maximum output current is 500mA but the existing L7805CV has a maximum output current of 1.5A. Will the Murata be able to supply enough current for use in the 7520?
Thanks.
Its more than enough, yes :)Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
BTW, Don't mean to keep jumping in, just tell me to bog off:o
Thanks Leo, definitely don't bog off. :lol:
From what I can make out from comparing the data sheets between the L7805CV and the 7805SR regulators, the latter should be a drop in replacement for the former. I'm going to order a 7805SR from Farnell soon and try it out, so I'll report back with my findings.
I'll then start looking into swapping the KIA7810A for a 7812SR but that's going to require a lot more research.
Borrow a variable power supply and set it on 15V. I use one of those PSU that has a LCD display and shows V and A. But don't go over 16V!! The electrolytic capacitors in the DAC are rated at 16V working. So you don't have much room to play with.Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
Stan
I have a 3pin socket soldered where the regs go just temporary , it allows for quick and easy swapping out of the regs, once I'm happy the sockets are removed and the chosen regs will be soldered top the pcb as normal
The sockets look the same type of thing used on the 7520 front pcb that the audioboard slots in
Yeah, I noticed your little blue socket in your photos in the "collection of mods" thread, it's a clever idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Have you noticed much change to the sound quality between different regs?
Thanks Stan, I've been fancying investing in a bench power supply for a while, I'll look into it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sensimilia
On the subject of voltage ratings, is the big power input cap the only component before the reg that's likely to blow over 16V?
For example, if I swapped the big cap for a 20V model, would I then be able to go over 16V input or would other components start to fry?
I'm just trying to get an idea of what the limiting factors are.
Thanks.
EDIT: Just for clarification, I'm not thinking about supplying the 7520 with more than 16V, it's just that I'm a little worried about running the input cap so close to it's rating. So if swapping this cap for a 20V model would mean that no components were likely to blow at 16V I'd look into this as a safely feature. I'm sure that finding a 10,000uF 20V cap small enough to fit in the case will be trick though.
Yes, the results vary depending on the reg type used, some sound slightly different, others can sound quite a bit different, some can be worse than the standard 78** type fittedQuote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
We first see if they measure better , then try the listening test
Hmm, I see. So fitting a Murata SR isn't a sure fire way to getting better sound quality. Have you tried one of the Murata SR's or anything similar yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by leo
Thanks.
BTW you'll be struggling to find a cap higher in voltage same uf which would physically fit properly in the case
Next up from 16v would probably be 25v
You would also have to change all the caps on the top PCB. I got a test unit where all the caps are 25V but the top case can't close.
Stan
I think you're probably right, especially seen as Stan had to get his made specially.
I think I saw some 20V and 25V on Farnell in varying sizes but I didn't bother checking the specific sizes as I wanted to find out if it was worth getting a higher voltage one first.
Exactly, its suck it and see;) of course you may get a surprise .Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy
Not tried the Murata, only alternative regs I've tried so far in this particular dac are diy discrete jobs built on vero
Thanks Stan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sensimilia
Hmm, so if we want to use the Murata 7812SR it's a case of either running all the caps close to their limits or swapping all the caps. I'll give that some thought, thanks.
Somebody mentioned a while ago that running their 7520 off 13.5V made the sound more harsh. Was this due to the type of power supply being used or the voltage?
I know we've already established that linear PSU's can't keep the big cap topped up quickly enough but I can't remember what the symptom of this was.
So was the harshness caused by a linear PSU being used?
@HighFidelityGuy
switcher is last thing you want inside DAC :trust:
Anyone wanna recommend some good practice for SMD so I can get to replacing my DAC with the WM8716?
Sorry, I don't follow? :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by FireFly
If I'm allowed to jump in Firefly is making an important point that class D or switching supplies operate at high frequencies, and need adequate filtering on the output to get rid of the noise and spikes that occur. Oversampling DACs also work at high frequencies and need filtering to remove the hash from the analogue outs. If the two are in the same case (or even if not) the layout and screening needs to work down beyond the microvolt level to make sure the one does not intermodulate the other and cause errors in the digital signal or noise spikes in the analogue signal. They are after all both micro radio transmitters :)Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFidelityGuy