Ding-a-ling is obviously going the extra mile to try and comply with the basic requirements of being a valued member of the forum. I vote that in future we leave him COMPLETELY alone in his own little world.
Cheers,
Ding-a-ling is obviously going the extra mile to try and comply with the basic requirements of being a valued member of the forum. I vote that in future we leave him COMPLETELY alone in his own little world.
Cheers,
DaveK.
My System:
Power: Belkin PF40, Custom.hifi.cables Hydra and DC PSUs.
Sources: Self built HTPC with Xonar ST sound card, NAD T585 multi disc player, Sony BDP-S350, Squeezebox Touch, Techncs SL1210 (mod'd) + Nagaoka MP30, Thomson Sky HD box.
Amps etc.: 2 x Mini-T amps, MF-X10D Valve buffer clone, StanDAC 7520/Caiman (mod'd).
Speakers: Mission 774s with added super tweeters
Cables: best I can afford and likely to change except Homar's RF attenuated co-ax's and Mark Grant USB and HDMI cables. I also like silver i/cs and speaker cable.
Hi Stan,
I've been doing a bit research into the Murata 7805SR-C and I've noticed that it's maximum output current is 500mA but the existing L7805CV has a maximum output current of 1.5A. Will the Murata be able to supply enough current for use in the 7520?
Thanks.
Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.
Thanks Leo, definitely don't bog off.
From what I can make out from comparing the data sheets between the L7805CV and the 7805SR regulators, the latter should be a drop in replacement for the former. I'm going to order a 7805SR from Farnell soon and try it out, so I'll report back with my findings.
I'll then start looking into swapping the KIA7810A for a 7812SR but that's going to require a lot more research.
Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.
I have a 3pin socket soldered where the regs go just temporary , it allows for quick and easy swapping out of the regs, once I'm happy the sockets are removed and the chosen regs will be soldered top the pcb as normal
The sockets look the same type of thing used on the 7520 front pcb that the audioboard slots in
Cheers,
Leo
Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.
Thanks Stan, I've been fancying investing in a bench power supply for a while, I'll look into it.
On the subject of voltage ratings, is the big power input cap the only component before the reg that's likely to blow over 16V?
For example, if I swapped the big cap for a 20V model, would I then be able to go over 16V input or would other components start to fry?
I'm just trying to get an idea of what the limiting factors are.
Thanks.
EDIT: Just for clarification, I'm not thinking about supplying the 7520 with more than 16V, it's just that I'm a little worried about running the input cap so close to it's rating. So if swapping this cap for a 20V model would mean that no components were likely to blow at 16V I'd look into this as a safely feature. I'm sure that finding a 10,000uF 20V cap small enough to fit in the case will be trick though.
Last edited by HighFidelityGuy; 17-07-2009 at 13:55.
Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.
Source: Apple TV 4K - DAC: Beresford Bushmaster Mk II - Preamp: CI AudioPLC-1 Mk II - Power Amps: Musical Fidelity 550K mono blocks - Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 3 - Cables: Mark Grant etc - Misc: Belkin PF30 mains filters.