I wonder how Richard ever got on with his MN bearing? For some reason, these days he seems to prefer living on pfm, even though there is much more Techy chat here..... :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by sonddek
Marco.
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I wonder how Richard ever got on with his MN bearing? For some reason, these days he seems to prefer living on pfm, even though there is much more Techy chat here..... :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by sonddek
Marco.
Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by worrasf
You just take out the motor control PCB, pop in the post, Richard works his magic and then you can easily reinstall ?
Will Richards PVB mods work with the TS PSU ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Stockwell
Yes, no problem - he kindly offered to supply me with a couple of DC leads so I could A/B dem his PSU against the TS but already decided to go with his anyway - hence moving on the TS :)
Steve
Yes, I did trim the protruding wires.Quote:
Originally Posted by JazzBones
Thanks for your encouragement!
The MN bearing seems to work fine. However, since that deck has an Ekos2 fitted and a Timestep PSU, I can't pinpoint the influence of the bearing. It certainly sounds better, in hi-fi terms, than my other stock SL1200's. I'm not sure it's much more musical. I think I would need to do a direct a/b comparison to offer a fair assessment, and that's why I don't have much to say on this subject.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco
BTW, since there are two Richards being mentioned on this thread it might disambiguate if people were to refer to me as sonddek.
Excellent news, Richard. I'm glad that the MN bearing has hit the spot, although I hear what you're saying about A/B comparisons, which is a fair point.Quote:
Originally Posted by sonddek
Marco.
Recently, I decided to re-instal the on/off switching (mains) on my 1210 to make life easier for myself. Now I have been using the Time Step HE supply; to give this titchy little box its full title, the 'Time Step HE Low noise power supply', thats what is says on the can. This PSU comes with a generous length of DC cable, too much for my requirement, so I decided to peel back the nylon mesh encasing the lead to enable me to aquire suitable lengths for solder purposes and to avoid too many solder joins. I was very pleasantly surprised that Dave Cawley, or whoever made the box, had used Van Damme cable (this I like). To be exact (bordering on being pedantic) the cable is Van Damme 268-012-060 Classic Instrument cable AM noise rejecting LAP spiral screen ultra pure SPO FC conductors so a pat on the back Master Cawley, you did tell me it was a good'un. This DC lead is connected to the PSU by a Female to Male locking collar DIN plug with pin No3 being hot (+VE DC) and pin No1 being cold (-VE DC) pins 2 and 4 are vacant, I checked it out with a Multimeter. This will make life easier (which in my dotage, I require). Is my TS HE DC lead sympatico with a Paul Hynes or Vanatge Audio unit to enable easy auditioning... is there a possibility there? I don't really want to de-solder and then re-solder again if I can help it. Is there anyone out there clued up on these matters??? :)
Incidently, I'm quite content with my connected TS HE but I'm also a curious old cove and if something is substantially better and has been proved to be then I'm all ears etc?
Ta muchly
:cocktail: Ron
Keep posted I may be getting a SR7 from paul, the SR5's bigger brother :eyebrows: When i have some time i'm gonna write a comparison of the two.
Andrew, I knew Paul H had a higher grade (?) PSU viz: SR7 but I did not realize that it was suitable for the 1210, have I missed out somewhere, and what does it bring to the soup kitchen as it were?:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
Ron
Hi Sonndek, I use an Ekos 1 which has been heavily modded by John Neilsen of Audio Origami, I call my modded arm an Akos :eyebrows:. It has been rewired with Kondo silver from cartridge tags right through to the SME arm cable socket, avoiding the original cartridge tag leads. In addition the arm has been slightly damped and I use AO's own decouples arm weight (gold coated for visual titalation). At the mo its coupled to an AT OCII whilst the piggy bank fills to enable my Koetsu Black to be revived. Two totally diff cartridges! I also use the TS HE PSU so we have some parallel experience :) I had used my Modded Ekos on my Linn LP12 with great success and it boogies away with the 1210 as well. My Jelco 750D is now on the LP12 doing duties in cubby hole office upstairs. Oh, I forgot, I use MN's bearing on the 1210 :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sonddek
Ron :thumbsup:
Well after Paul sent me a very detailed email describing the SR7, it seems to be a much more powerful version of the SR5 which is probably going to do a better version of the TimeStep HE i have installed at the moment. Whilst the HE turns my MN platter around very nicely i cant help but think that it's struggling. I've asked Paul to look into souping up the SR7 in all departments. I'd like to have a Reference level power supply if possible!
I am trying to follow directions on how to connect the DC lead from my external power supply to the proper area for my beloved 1200 so that I can use the power switch once again. I understand that it should be connected to the brown or blue cable that was once used from the internal power supply - which has been since long removed. I do have a brown, blue, and red wire which is attached from the PCB going into the TT (perhaps to the power switch?) The pictures will show the wire outlay.
My power PCB looks a bit different than what I see in the pictures provided by Shuggie - perhaps because my TT is 25 years old.
I have enclosed pictures of my power supply PCB area in my TT. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks much.
Mike
OK, with a little ambition, I took a Digital Multimeter and tinkered with the Power Supply PCB. Connecting the brown with the blue wire with the switch off, the DMM showed no continuity. WHen I switched the power on, the DMM registered continuity. The underside of the PCB shows the copper trace of the brown wire not to connect to anything else, the blue wire connects to a resistor and a pole, so can I safely assume that this is where the DC lead is to connect to the brown wire? All of this was measured with no DC connected to the TT.
Thanks all for your help.
Hi Mike,
I have not thought about this before, however I have quickly dismantled my test bed SL1200 and here is the detail that will help you.
a) The on/off switch on the SL1200 operates a normal 2-way micro-switch.
b) The common of the micro-switch goes to the Blue wire
c) The normally closed contact on the micro switch (which is the "Off" position on the knob) goes to the Red wire.
d) The normally open contact (which will close when you twist the knob to the "ON" position) goes to the Brown wire.
If you have a FLUKE type multi meter then you can use this to verify the above connections before proceding.
Now what you require to do is the following:
a) Snip all wires from the circuit board. Do not use the existing terminals which these wires are connected to on the power PCB, as convenient solder terminals for the foregoing steps. There may be variations of circuit design which can cross connect these wires, Noise caps ect.
b) Bare the ends of the Blue and brown wires.
c) Now connect the Positive DC wire coming directly from your external power supply, to the Blue wire. (remove it from the PCB first)
d) Now take a length of good quality wire and connect it to the point where the posive DC wire was connected to the circuit board. In the case of the TS Power Suppy, this will be at the top of the PCB.
e) Now connect the other end of this wire to the Brown wire coming from the Micro Switch.
f) Ensure that both soldered connections are valid and that the joints are insulated.
g) Refit the platter and tune for maximum smoke.
If you have done the above correctly the switch should now control the positive voltage to the PCB, such that the platter will spin when the On/Off knob is turned clockwise to the "On" position.
The Red wire going to the micro switch has no function for us and can be neatly tucked away, in case an application fof it comes to light in the future.
The above is predicated on the wiring at the micro switch being the same as on my unit.
I see no reason why there would be any differences here.
Thanks Mike!
I will perform this mod later this week. Then I can fit your new platter on the TT. I can hardly wait!!!
Mike
I've finally put together a DIY PSU for my Techie using one of Paul Hynes' excellent circuits and was wondering what the best cable would be to use for the connection from the PSU to the turntable. Is it OK to just used standard electrical cable, the type without an earth? Connection to PSU is via 4-pin IEC plug. :scratch:
You only need two cores provided your deck is earthed via the arm cable. I am just about to evaluate Paul Hynes' fine silver connection cable for the Technics (from his SR5-21 PSU) so stand by!
I have some Kimber Quick 16 cable I could also use. :)
Martin, I'd be interested in your opinion of that. Still, I'd like to fit the PSU and see what it sounds like. Might use something just to get it connected for the time being.
Any suggestions for a better replacement would be greatly appreciated.
I've been using Kimber PBJ and I think Quick 16 may be very similar. I'm sure it would get you up and going without any problems.
See http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=13451Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinT
I have made an external regulated 21v DC supply. Can I "simply" connect the +ve to J3 and the -ve to earth without any other mods?
No, as a minimum you'll need to break the connections from the internal regulator to the main PCB or you'll destroy it & possibly damage your own PSU.
Many thanks-I have seen some professional PSUs which claim to require "only one connection" to be made etc-how are they connected?
Some PSUs (like the KAB) connect to the AC inputs on the PCB. This is the non-preferred method. You are better off removing the external regulator (clamped to the chassis) and connecting the 21V straight in. There is a thread with photos on how to do it here:
http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8118
Remember that the optimal earth (0V) point is the lower-left post as you look at the PCB right way up.
Guys what transformer is used with the various alternative PSUs out there?
Toroid? EI? How many VA?
Hi Dimmy
Please would you pop over to the welcome section and introduce yourself before continuing? This is a basic requirement of membership. Thanks :)
I just did Martin. Sorry for the delay
I have just fitted my Long Dog Audio PSU supplied by David at MCRU.
The difference in the sound is remarkable. I am very happy....
There is only one thing that annoys me. The strobe is permanently on, so I either need to disable it, or connect up the switch.
If I connect he switch back in, what cable should I use. I have seen references to using a good quality cable, but a make and model, or even a link to what I need would be much appreciated.
I only need a single core DC cable, and I don't need much of it.
My thoughts were Teflon insulated silver cable. Would this be correct?
Just connect the strobe light through the now redundant power switch, Kevin. The type of wire is immaterial as it's just carrying the strobe DC.
Thanks Martin, but I was actually thinking of re-enabling the switch so I can power off/on the deck as I was able to before.
I was intending to connect the positive from the external PSU through the switch. That means that I would need some wire to go back to the board to put the 21V back in.
I'll look at changing the Strobe so it's on the power switch, and see if I can work out how to connect it.
I would avoid doing that if possible, Kevin, as routing your precious regulated DC through that switch would slightly compromise it. Better to switch off at the external power supply and use that switch to disable the strobe.
Sounds sensible.
Thanks.
Strobe now on the rotary switch.
While I was in the deck, I have also fitted a molex jumper across the pitch controls.
Two free mods completed, so now time to have a listen with no lights running to see if I can hear a difference in my modest system.
Great. Enjoy the listening.
My switch is still in circuit with no ill effects at all Kevin. I wanted to keep this functionality as it is a pain in the arse, not to mention the back (I have a chronic back problem) to have to bend down to floor level to flip the power switch every time I want to use my TT ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by CageyH
I do not think that using the rotary switch as the on/off switch will cause any problems at all. The switch is able to handle the current, and it is not directly switching an inductive load. Also we are handling DC so the extra length of wiring up to insersion/connection point will not cause any hum problems. I used this method on my test bed SL using the TS power supply with no problems.
I have been asked by a respected member ov this forum to let you all know that the Timestep HE PSU instructions...(for my unit that arrived this week) Are dated Monday 21 June 2010. Instruction 10 states to fit the solder tag to the top right hand PCB screw.....Not to the bottom left screw for correct grounding as has been pointed out in this forum....
It would appear the "Designer" is adverse to any suggestion otherwise on the proper placement. As I had been reading how to install an external PSU on this forum, I have followed the correct advice..
Also the instructions make no mention ov removing the old PCB and regulator, only to remover the original mains lead and transformer to do a "Proper Job".
So now you know.....
How I used the stock switch, with external psu. (and had more Volts than needed, so I replaced one fuse with a 10+ ohm resistor, for added filtering)
I used the stock AC-cord, with a new (XLR)-plug to PSU.
Arne K
Thank you Shuggie, I just used these instructions to install the DC PSU from Mains Cables R Us (www.mrcu.co.uk). I also used the picture Worrasf posted to keep my on/off control working, so thank you, too.
Immediately the hum at start up has gone, which is exactly what I wanted to achieve. Thank you everyone!
Did you put the earth in the correct place, as I think the picture does not show it in the optimum position.
No, that's wrong. If you look at the ground plane on the underside of the motor control PCB, you will see that all ground tracks return to the hole which corresponds to the lower left pillar as you look at the deck normally. That is the pillar where the ground tag should go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Incisions
Hmmm. I connected it to the bottom left...the correct place...rereading my comment..I see its sounds like I followed Dave Cs...INCORRECT PLACMENT... I Definatly connected to bottom Left...The piurpose ov my message was to state Dave C has not revised the correct placment for the grounding ov his PSU.
Welp, after reading all the external PSU of threads, I’ve just finished installing a new Paul Hynes SR4T on my 1200. I’m one happy camper, even if I did spend my lunch money on a posh choice, no regrets! I’m only 3 records in so far but will say that removing the AC is an immediate improvement.
Hi guys. I’m a bit late to the party but if anyone can send me a link to a top end toroidal transformer I can use to build a psu, that would be gratefully recieved and much appreciated.
Many thanks
Sunil
An eBay search will produce a replacement Toroidal Transformer looks like an RS component.