Tannoy Lancasters

Hello,

Sorry to interrupt your thread but I also got my Lancasters this week and I was also curious how could I check the cones. Finally I realised that the back panel can be unscrewed so I took off the back. As I can see the cones are in mint condition but since there is a green paint on the screws holding the speakers in their place, I don't want to unscrew them.
I also have 15" Golds in it. I've read somewhere that during a period Tannoy's production quality was not the very best (reference: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/tannoyMG15.htm) so I would like to ask what should I check in order to find out if my Golds are OK or not. Also this link mentions the crossover part values might not be correct (due to age).
They sound very nice, but I would like to make sure that my Lancaster sound at their best.

Thanks for your help!

Hi László

The Tannoy quality problems mentioned followed their move to Scotland from London and (if I'm correct) refer to the HPD series, not the Monitor Golds. Maybe I'm wrong but I'm confident that in the early 70s, Tannoy were at their best.

I too have read quite a lot about crossover values. Marco has recommended to me that I live with the Lancasters as they are before fiddling with anything, and I shall do just that. It is very likely, however, that old electrolytic capacitors in the crossover are now very tired and will need replacing. Whether the crossover circuit needs tweaking remains to be seen (or rather heard). I took a quick look at one of the crossover boxes, but was unable to get the top of the plastic case off to see inside, but perhaps a bit more force is required.

One thing I noticed when taking the back off one of my Lancasters is that there is a piece of plywood covering the aperiodic vent on the front panel, making them true sealed boxes. Does anyone know if this applies to all Lancasters, or whether they are intended to be vented?

Just spotted these on ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tannoy-Ber...94219798054443

Hello Hugo,

I also have the same Lancaster enclosure and I was advised to leave it closed as the closed box sounds better. As I know Tannoy made these boxes in 2 versions: vented and closed. I think they started with the vented version and then they covered the opening to make it closed. Probably they had many enclosures already manufactured with a vent so they just simple covered the vents :-)

I will try to open the crossover to check the pats in it because I also think that some of the caps might get out of tolerance.
It would be nice to know which components are suggested to be changed and what replacement caps did other people used and suggest.

I have a very dumb question: why do these Tannoys have the TREBLE roll-off and energy level setting? I tried them but I am not confident if I should regularly adjust them according to the recording I am listening or I should only adjust it once to my amplifier and to my liking and then I should leave it on that level?

Regards,
László

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vencel

I have a very dumb question: why do these Tannoys have the TREBLE roll-off and energy level setting? I tried them but I am not confident if I should regularly adjust them according to the recording I am listening or I should only adjust it once to my amplifier and to my liking and then I should leave it on that level?

Regards,
László

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I reckon that you should find the settings that sound good and leave them that way; otherwise constant adjustment will just get in the way of listening to the music!

So what's the verdict, mate? We're on tenderhooks here!! :eek:

Marco.

Marco

None of my speaker cables will fit the sprung bare wire connections on the back of the Lancasters, so I am going to make up some 4mm banana plug adapters, just to get going. I do have some reasonable quality 4mm binding posts, so I shall install those on the back panel at some point - it almost seems a shame to disturb the incredibly tidy acoustic wadding stapled to the back panel. All of this means that I've not yet had a chance to do any listening, but maybe later today!

I have made up the wiring adapters using some Kimber TCX and connected the Lancasters up to the system. Notwithstanding the fact the soldering on my adapters needs a few hours to 'settle down' sonically, the Lancasters do come across as a bit thick sounding; certainly not as musically fleet of foot as the Avalons. There is no shortage of treble energy and some twiddling of the treble controls may be required. Raising them up off the carpet may help with the 'plodding' sound and I will try redeploying the Stillpoints Component Stands from the Avalons. I think it's highly likely that crossover tweaks will improve them, but time will tell.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Shuggie

I have made up the wiring adapters using some Kimber TCX and connected the Lancasters up to the system. Notwithstanding the fact the soldering on my adapters needs a few hours to 'settle down' sonically, the Lancasters do come across as a bit thick sounding; certainly not as musically fleet of foot as the Avalons. There is no shortage of treble energy and some twiddling of the treble controls may be required. Raising them up off the carpet may help with the 'plodding' sound and I will try redeploying the Stillpoints Component Stands from the Avalons. I think it's highly likely that crossover tweaks will improve them, but time will tell.

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Hello,

I thought you will write about jawdropping experience when you first listen to your Tannoys. May I ask what kind of amp do you use it with? I am curious about your impressions after lifting them up a bit from the floor.
I have a friend who uses them with 211 tube amp but I will use them with a LM3875 amp (modified Gaincard clone) as soon as I finish it and 6072A tube preamp before it.

Regards,
Vencel

Hi Hugo,

I think that you will need to get them up off of the floor, like I said on the phone. The problem with Lancasters is that they're a kind of halfway house between large stand-mounts and floor-standers, and were designed in the days before speaker stands were considered de rigueur.

For crossover mods, here are some pics of the ones I had designed for my Lockwoods:

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/7940/img02573.jpg

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/1408/img02581.jpg

Circuit diagram to achieve the above, here: http://www.guitars-of-love.com/tanno...ssovermods.htm

Marco.