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Marco,
I too have a pair of 15XR's that I picked up for £30 from a local 'boot sale! I intend to use these in a second system that I'm putting togther which is going to be valve based. Have you any idea what modification you'd like to do to your 15's? Me, personally, I'll probably be replacing the binding posts, internally re-wiring with pure silver cable (cotton dialectic), the foam looks quite good in mine so i'll keep that. Probably re-build the cross-over.
Hi Andrew,
Ditto! Perhaps we should compare notes during the process? I won't be starting my project though until the New Year :)
Marco.
Any ideas what CAPS your going to use in the cross-over, or if your even going to get a newer replacement? I'm on the look out for some cheap speaker stands. I'll probably looking around cash-generators to see if I can nab a bargain over the next few weeks. What sort of improvements did you notice when you put them on the stands. I must admit that mine have been in my second system (which is a complete Quad 77 setup) sitting on the floor. I have two differing speaker cables to try out Nordost SPM reference, or QED silver. I still don't know whether I'm going to bi-amp modify them yet!! There are a few posts on the net on how to modify them but I've not found anyone reportedly bi-amping them and reporting on the outcome.
Hi Andrew,
I'll probably use my tried and trusted favs: Clarity Cap MRs (which I used to great effect in the Tannoys), providing I can get the right values :)
I'll also fit some silver WBT speaker terminals and rewire them internally with VDH CS Hybrid cable, again as I did with the Tannoys, and also upgrade the inductors with Mundorfs.
The crossovers in question:
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/9...oncrossove.jpg
Marco.
I recently referbed a set of Castle Kendal II's, i used Ansar polyprop caps as suggested by Andre and they made a huge difference, in my opinion, i would rewire using the same cable as you use to connect to the amp, once again i did this as a suggestion of another member, and to be frank i did it cos it made sense, and unless there is something wrong with the binding posts, i would save your money.Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
Many thanks guys for the options regarding the CAPS. I intend keeping the 15's so I'd like to get the best parts for the job. I'm in a quandry as to which cable to use. This second system is going to be used for mainly jazz, a bit of classical and maybe accoustic stuff. I have 3 options, Nordost SPM reference, Make my own out of 99.9999% pure silver with cotton dialetic + EMI + RFI shielding, or good old QED which I used to use in my all Quad set-up, this later got replaced with the SPM reference. My old "Reference" setup included the Michell technoarm and Valhalla interconnects, and boy could I tell I had the silver in that set-up screechingly high treble!! I mainly listen to thrash, prog, heavy metal/rock. I'm now all Cu in the "reference" system and I'm really enjoying the noise it's making, perhaps even more when I get Marco's SR5 power supply at the end of January :eek:. One final question, what sort of height would you use the 15's at??? I'm looking for a cheapo pair of stands to put them on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac Hawk
Hahahaha - dream on... That one's a keeper! :eek: :lol:Quote:
perhaps even more when I get Marco's SR5 power supply at the end of January...
Marco.
:pat:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jac Hawk
Be an idea to get shut of those old inductors at some point, i used to use RATA Iron Cores when they were available as i thought them the best Inductor i used at that time, i would now opt for Foil inductors..As for x-over power resistors, i've always used Caddock 'MP930' films..Internal speaker wiring:I've never been a fan of Ag platted Cu wire & was more than happy using Kimber 'TCSS' & 'TCX' i still do.High quality Binding posts such as WBT or J.A.Michell do make a difference aswell.I've always like the Michell amp & speaker posts
The rule of thumb is to get the tweeter/midrange as close to ear height listening position as possibe, so it depends how low you sit, also i have found with my MS45Ti's which i guess are roughly the same size, that having them too low seems to neutralize the bass.Quote:
Originally Posted by REXTON
I would say the lowest stands to use would be about 40cm up to about 55cm
That 'orrible black cap HAS to go and tbh, any polyprop cap of the correct rating will be a dramatic improvement (I've done it with other speakers with the same type of cap - these were in vast use in UK made speakers back then.
As for wiring, I really wouldn't go mad, as the inherant distortions in the drive units, combined with dispersion issues caused by the rebated baffle would mask much of the finer points of fancy silver wires. hey, I'm not being over-critical, just trying to put a little perspective in here..