View Full Version : FR64 FX arm - your thoughts on this dilemma
I currently own a Fidelity Research FR64FX arm, silver wired version ( so it says on the box ).
Whilst I can't prove that the arm is indeed silver wired ( they usually have a sticker on the arm tube, this one doesn't but it might have come off at some time prior to new owning it ).
I've always had the niggling doubt that the edge/glare on the highs that irritates me was caused by the silver wiring, why go I think this, well anything I've tried that's silver wired has given me the same annoyance.
So ..... Yesterday, I put my Mission 774 arm back on, bit of a faff as the metal sme armboard wasn't the right fit for the Mission baseplate so it's on but it's a bit Heath Robinson with odd screws etc, but it's firm and it works, the result? All that irritating edginess has gone, however it's not ' quite ' as good as the FR arm but it's close, I suppose you could say the positives do out weigh the negatives, ie: I'm not rushing over to the amp to turn it down before my ears bleed! But I do know I want better. I've lost a tiny bit in the bass and mid-range with the 774, more in tone than impact if you know what I mean but I can live with better than I can the ear bleeds, so a new arm isn't out of the question, especially as I know the FR is sought after.
Now to my dilemma.
1: Do I rewire the FR arm ?
2: Do I try just changing the RCA cabling from the arm base to the phono stage?
3: Internal rewire AND new RCA cable
4: Sell the FR as is ( keeps it's original ) and buy as good an arm with no silver in it?
I'm tempted initially to try 2 as it's easiest option even though I know putting the FR arm back in is a bit of a hassle. But will this help as the arm itself will still be silver wired, I mean is there any silver in the original RCA cable?
Please note that this issue is the same on the FR arm no matter which of my three cartridges ( MM and MC ) or settings I use on each of the phono stages I've owned since buying the FR arm so I'm pretty convinced that's the cause.
Your thoughts?
Ali Tait
30-05-2019, 08:58
Try another cable as you say, it’s quick and easy to do.
FWIW, I had my 774 rewired with Ikeda silver wire by Johnnie, it sounded great and no edginess, but I think some silver wires can exhibit this. If a different cable doesn’t cure it, I’d send it to Johnnie to rewire with copper.
Or just sell it if you fancy trying another arm lol. Guess it depends on how much you like it.
Ali Tait
30-05-2019, 08:59
Interesting how close the 774 is though, the FR is a revered arm, so the Mission is in good company!
walpurgis
30-05-2019, 09:02
Increase the fluid damping on the 774 with a larger paddle or thicker silicone fluid, the bass will improve.
The 774 benefits from a high quality rewire. The cable out to the phono stage can be improved on too. The mid and top will benefit.
Ali Tait
30-05-2019, 09:05
Yes it does. The Ikeda wire made a big improvement.
774 is very close Ali, if you hadn't heard the FR you wouldn't miss it if you know what I mean.
The 774 is your old one so it's cardas wired and now has Olis Spotfire RCA cabling which is brand new so that might change over time.
Geoff, I've a thicker paddle fitted and it's 'just' touching the oil at present, see above for wiring info.
I should also say that the currently fitted metal armboard will be holding the 774 back but I traded Magna Audio Ebony one back in to buy the FR one, typical [emoji23]
Bigman80
30-05-2019, 09:11
I currently own a Fidelity Research FR64FX arm, silver wired version ( so it says on the box ).
Whilst I can't prove that the arm is indeed silver wired ( they usually have a sticker on the arm tube, this one doesn't but it might have come off at some time prior to new owning it ).
I've always had the niggling doubt that the edge/glare on the highs that irritates me was caused by the silver wiring, why go I think this, well anything I've tried that's silver wired has given me the same annoyance.
So ..... Yesterday, I put my Mission 774 arm back on, bit of a faff as the metal sme armboard wasn't the right fit for the Mission baseplate so it's on but it's a bit Heath Robinson with odd screws etc, but it's firm and it works, the result? All that irritating edginess has gone, however it's not ' quite ' as good as the FR arm but it's close, I suppose you could say the positives do out weigh the negatives, ie: I'm not rushing over to the amp to turn it down before my ears bleed! But I do know I want better. I've lost a tiny bit in the bass and mid-range with the 774, more in tone than impact if you know what I mean but I can live with better than I can the ear bleeds, so a new arm isn't out of the question, especially as I know the FR is sought after.
Now to my dilemma.
1: Do I rewire the FR arm ?
2: Do I try just changing the RCA cabling from the arm base to the phono stage?
3: Internal rewire AND new RCA cable
4: Sell the FR as is ( keeps it's original ) and buy as good an arm with no silver in it?
I'm tempted initially to try 2 as it's easiest option even though I know putting the FR arm back in is a bit of a hassle. But will this help as the arm itself will still be silver wired, I mean is there any silver in the original RCA cable?
Please note that this issue is the same on the FR arm no matter which of my three cartridges ( MM and MC ) or settings I use on each of the phono stages I've owned since buying the FR arm so I'm pretty convinced that's the cause.
Your thoughts?Sell the FR.
Buy a PMAT1010 or whatever your heart desires.
Don't mess with the wiring as it'll mess with the value.
Bigman80
30-05-2019, 09:13
774 is very close Ali, if you hadn't heard the FR you wouldn't miss it if you know what I mean.
The 774 is your old one so it's cardas wired and now has Olis Spotfire RCA cabling which is brand new so that might change over time.
Geoff, I've a thicker paddle fitted and it's 'just' touching the oil at present, see above for wiring info.Yes, let that cable burn in. BASS will improve. The Mission is a drier arm tonally so don't expect rich mids.it won't do it.
walpurgis
30-05-2019, 09:15
Geoff, I've a thicker paddle fitted and it's 'just' touching the oil at present
I tend to immerse the paddle. Try that and see if the bass livens up.
Sell the FR.
Buy a PMAT1010 or whatever your heart desires.
Don't mess with the wiring as it'll mess with the value.That is my fear, don't want to mess with the originallity of the FR in case I do sell it.
Bigman80
30-05-2019, 09:16
That is my fear, don't want to mess with the originallity of the FR in case I do sell it.Can you buy another arm on the strength of being able to sell the FR64?
I tend to immerse the paddle. Try that and see if the bass livens up.I've plenty bass, just a tad thicker than with the FR arm will more fluid tighten the bass or just give me more you think?
Can you buy another arm on the strength of being able to sell the FR64?Def, it's worth a decent sum these days, one or two on eBay ranging from 1300-2000 ( unrealistic I know, mine would be sold at less ) mind you I might just mothball and sell in a few years time [emoji6]
dwhistance
30-05-2019, 09:19
Hello Mike
I have a silver wired FR64fx which I'm using as my main arm at the moment with AudioNote Io and Decca C4E cartridges. I don't have any problems with edge/glare in the high's, even with the Decca, however I don't use the original tonearm cable which didn't sound too good (probably shouldn't say that as they seem to fetch reasonable money!). Instead I use a Yannis Tome 423.5 silver cable (http://www.back-promo.co.uk/html/423_5phono_litz.html) which I think sounds great. If you decide to stay with the FR64fx I'd therefore suggest trying a different cable from the arm to the phono stage first before thinking about rewiring it.
One thought though, this is a reasonably heavy arm, are you sure it is a good match to your cartridges? It may be that is the problem? The Mission 774 is also a good arm and probably better suited to modern MM's so perhaps the best solution is to get that mounted properly?
David Whistance
Hello Mike
I have a silver wired FR64fx which I'm using as my main arm at the moment with AudioNote Io and Decca C4E cartridges. I don't have any problems with edge/glare in the high's, even with the Decca, however I don't use the original tonearm cable which didn't sound too good (probably shouldn't say that as they seem to fetch reasonable money!). Instead I use a Yannis Tome 423.5 silver cable (http://www.back-promo.co.uk/html/423_5phono_litz.html) which I think sounds great. If you decide to stay with the FR64fx I'd therefore suggest trying a different cable from the arm to the phono stage first before thinking about rewiring it.
One thought though, this is a reasonably heavy arm, are you sure it is a good match to your cartridges? It may be that is the problem? The Mission 774 is also a good arm and probably better suited to modern MM's so perhaps the best solution is to get that mounted properly?
David WhistanceInteresting, it's definitely the route I was going to try first, I'm using an Ortofon Kontrapunkt B at the moment but also have Shure m55 with Jico stylus and an ADC XLM III.
I have also had a Zyx r100 on it too all pretty much with the same result so that's why I think the wiring is my problem. I think I even had my Decca Gold on it at one time too.
I know Ali uses/used Yannis cabling on his and I've looked at those many times but was reluctant to spend cash in case it was pointless, another thing that put me off was not knowing what connector to go for? But now that I've dismantled the FR that'll be easy to find out.
Ali Tait
30-05-2019, 09:25
Agree the Yannis is a very good cable, not silly money either. Worth a go Mike.
Bigman80
30-05-2019, 09:26
Def, it's worth a decent sum these days, one or two on eBay ranging from 1300-2000 ( unrealistic I know, mine would be sold at less ) mind you I might just mothball and sell in a few years time [emoji6]That's my advice then.speak to Angus, he may loan you one if he has one. If you don't fancy the PMAT1010, I dont know what other arm I'd suggest that could be as good for the money.
I could loan you mine but I haven't got any spare arms lol
That's my advice then.speak to Angus, he may loan you one if he has one. If you don't fancy the PMAT1010, I dont know what other arm I'd suggest that could be as good for the money.
I could loan you mine but I haven't got any spare arms lolI was in touch with Angus a wee while back and we both thought they 1010 'might' fit ok taking into account the height of my platter and mat.
Tell you what, listening just now to maybe my 5th or 6th LP since fitting the 774 yesterday and the bass is there, a little thicker, the treble is there with no glare, I think it's just the mid-range that seems slightly lacking at the moment, I'll give it a lot more time before I move on anything as regards the 774 until I think it's had enough hours on the cabling to finally decide if it's staying on.
The FR can stay in the box in the meantime [emoji6]
Bigman80
30-05-2019, 09:36
I was in touch with Angus a wee while back and we both thought they 1010 'might' fit ok taking into account the height of my platter and mat.
Tell you what, listening just now to maybe my 5th or 6th LP since fitting the 774 yesterday and the bass is there, a little thicker, the treble is there with no glare, I think it's just the mid-range that seems slightly lacking at the moment, I'll give it a lot more time before I move on anything as regards the 774 until I think it's had enough hours on the cabling to finally decide if it's staying on.
The FR can stay in the box in the meantime [emoji6]It'll come on song, trust me.
If you need a tonearm cable for the FR64, let me know.
It'll come on song, trust me.
If you need a tonearm cable for the FR64, let me know.Will do [emoji3526]
dwhistance
30-05-2019, 09:44
I haven't owned a Kontrapunkt B but I do have an A somewhere which doesn't work well on the FR64fx, it was much better on my Graham 2.2 though not a cartridge I liked very much. I think that the FR64fx is also too heavy for the two MM's and indeed the ZYX. It should have worked well with the Decca though, provided you had a nice heavy headshell.
If you want to try my tonearm cable to rule that out as a problem I'll happily lend it to you for a few days next week - it's probably time I had a listen to the Graham again!
Ammonite Audio
30-05-2019, 10:32
My FR-64S was serviced and re-wired by Angus using hybrid ceramic bearings and silver wires, and it sounds rather better for it, at a very reasonable cost! So, that's another option for the FR-64FX.
I haven't owned a Kontrapunkt B but I do have an A somewhere which doesn't work well on the FR64fx, it was much better on my Graham 2.2 though not a cartridge I liked very much. I think that the FR64fx is also too heavy for the two MM's and indeed the ZYX. It should have worked well with the Decca though, provided you had a nice heavy headshell.
If you want to try my tonearm cable to rule that out as a problem I'll happily lend it to you for a few days next week - it's probably time I had a listen to the Graham again!I have the Fidelity Research rs121 headshell and I've also used an Orsonic 101 too.
I might take you up on your generous offer of the loan of the cable, I'll give this 774 plenty listening other the next 2 or 3 days and get back to you [emoji3526]
My FR-64S was serviced and re-wired by Angus using hybrid ceramic bearings and silver wires, and it sounds rather better for it, at a very reasonable cost! So, that's another option for the FR-64FX.Something I'll definitely keep in mind and easy done now that the arm is already off the deck.
dwhistance
30-05-2019, 16:54
I use an Orsonic 101 with my Decca C4E and another with the Io. I like them much better than the FR RS121 which I got with my arm in 2003. I think either would need to be weighted down a bit for a Decca Gold which might work better in one of the even heavier FR headshells (FR3?). I think you need a much lighter headshell for your cartridges on the FR64fx and even then I still think the Mission 774 is probably a better match with them. Just send me a PM if you want to borrow the cable.
I use an Orsonic 101 with my Decca C4E and another with the Io. I like them much better than the FR RS121 which I got with my arm in 2003. I think either would need to be weighted down a bit for a Decca Gold which might work better in one of the even heavier FR headshells (FR3?). I think you need a much lighter headshell for your cartridges on the FR64fx and even then I still think the Mission 774 is probably a better match with them. Just send me a PM if you want to borrow the cable.Thanks again for the extra info, very interesting, I'm tweaking the 774 setup just now trying out Uni-Din instead of Loefgren B but because of the fixed head on the 774 I can't line the cartridge up correctly so I'll need to revert back to Loefgren B.
Thanks again for the offer of the cable I'll message you if I need to borrow it.
Neil McCauley
30-05-2019, 17:54
This site might be a source of info from FR64 FX owners. https://www.facebook.com/groups/581515375550854/
I have an FR65fx with an AN IO 1 and it definitely isn't edgy, however I am not using the original FR cable from the arm to the SUT, I am using Audio Note QSSC cable.
I also found an Orsonic AV-101B was better than the FR RS-121 headshell that came with the arm.
It is possible that a rewire and service could improve the arm, however I would start with the cable from the arm to SUT/phono stage.
I have an FR65fx with an AN IO 1 and it definitely isn't edgy, however I am not using the original FR cable from the arm to the SUT, I am using Audio Note QSSC cable.
I also found an Orsonic AV-101B was better than the FR RS-121 headshell that came with the arm.
It is possible that a rewire and service could improve the arm, however I would start with the cable from the arm to SUT/phono stage.Thanks, I'm pretty sure that is the issue, the 774 is sounding good just now but I know what I'm missing about the FR so I think I'll try the RCA lead first and take it from there.
Increase the fluid damping on the 774 with a larger paddle or thicker silicone fluid, the bass will improve.
The 774 benefits from a high quality rewire. The cable out to the phono stage can be improved on too. The mid and top will benefit.
NOOOOOO!!!! It's my experience when setting these things up for a living that too much effing damping KILLS this arm, slugging the bass and making the whole thing tuneless - tried on several decks when this arm was new! Lord I set up enough of these damned things and acted as tonearm bearing quality control in the early days as we sold so many, a sizeable number from each batch we had delivered had to be returned due to notchy or sticky bearings - it's a shit rough tat of a thing yet you peeps wank yourselves silly over them today and get all manner of high prices for them when passing them round the community :D
Seriously, my suggestion for damping on a 774 is the smallest paddle just scraping the surface of the fluid. I like my vinyl musical dynamics free and unfettered you see, not smothered and overly controlled.
YMMV of course today ;)
Other crap to consider - What's yer cartridge wired with? Usually copper and not always PCOCC either! Loading can revive or kill some cartridges too as can low overload margins in some foo phono stages. Are you sure it's the arm - what's your digital like? If this latter isn't right either, then I suspect it's something else in the system myself.
My own experience is that pure silver wires can be very good, but silver plated wires can be scratchy sounding and not pleasant with more assertive equipment...
NOOOOOO!!!! It's my experience when setting these things up for a living that too much effing damping KILLS this arm, slugging the bass and making the whole thing tuneless - tried on several decks when this arm was new! Lord I set up enough of these damned things and acted as tonearm bearing quality control in the early days as we sold so many, a sizeable number from each batch we had delivered had to be returned due to notchy or sticky bearings - it's a shit rough tat of a thing yet you peeps wank yourselves silly over them today and get all manner of high prices for them when passing them round the community :D
Seriously, my suggestion for damping on a 774 is the smallest paddle just scraping the surface of the fluid. I like my vinyl musical dynamics free and unfettered you see, not smothered and overly controlled.
YMMV of course today ;)[emoji23]
Dinnae worry I'm still tweaking [emoji6]
you peeps wank yourselves silly over them today and get all manner of high prices for them when passing them round the community :D
is that what you do geoff over your 3? :D
is that what you do geoff over your 3? :DFor once I hope Marco and the Mods don't demand photos [emoji23]
My 64fx sounds lovely with a 103R, certainly nothing I would describe as glare or brightness. It's not a silver wired model though. I had thought about a rewire but silver does seem to provoke divided opinions, would be interesting to know if yours is definitely a silver wired version.
My 64fx sounds lovely with a 103R, certainly nothing I would describe as glare or brightness. It's not a silver wired model though. I had thought about a rewire but silver does seem to provoke divided opinions, would be interesting to know if yours is definitely a silver wired version.
me too, the box definitely states silver but that proves nothing, must be some way of telling on the arm but the sticker that i see on others is missing, hardly surprising given the age.
My ears might be wrong but I once tried a Tisbury silver wired Pre and fingernails on a blackboard screeched less :lol:
Bigman80
01-06-2019, 12:36
me too, the box definitely states silver but that proves nothing, must be some way of telling on the arm but the sticker that i see on others is missing, hardly surprising given the age.
My ears might be wrong but I once tried a Tisbury silver wired Pre and fingernails on a blackboard screeched less [emoji38]Your ears aren't wrong. Unless you use the best silver wire, you get that edge and glare. I have tried multiple silver cable and wires and only the really expensive stuff starts to sound as good as the best Copper.
This may be controversial to some but that my opinion and its been formed by trying over 25 sets of cable and wire.
You need the best silver to get the fluidity that even the cheaper copper does well.
Mundorf do a silver/gold blend and its superb BUT it could be described as being a bit lightweight sounding. That said, is was a smooth as butter. Lovely stuff but I missed the weight and felt I'd lost more in Timbre than I'd gained from anything else.
You need OCC Silver and the best stuff is in Japan. Good luck getting a supplier to send it here without a Vat number and minimum order quantity!!!!
Your ears aren't wrong. Unless you use the best silver wire, you get that edge and glare. I have tried multiple silver cable and wires and only the really expensive stuff starts to sound as good as the best Copper.
This may be controversial to some but that my opinion and its been formed by trying over 25 sets of cable and wire.
You need the best silver to get the fluidity that even the cheaper copper does well.
Mundorf do a silver/gold blend and its superb BUT it could be described as being a bit lightweight sounding. That said, is was a smooth as butter. Lovely stuff but I missed the weight and felt I'd lost more in Timbre than I'd gained from anything else.
You need OCC Silver and the best stuff is in Japan. Good luck getting a supplier to send it here without a Vat number and minimum order quantity!!!!
Thing is I could try a new RCA cable but that won't overcome the internal wiring ( won't be much in there though ) and I'm loathe to muck about with the arm if I decide to sell it, BUT it is definitely better than the 774 so it IS worth keeping and getting right too :doh:
Bigman80
01-06-2019, 12:48
Thing is I could try a new RCA cable but that won't overcome the internal wiring ( won't be much in there though ) and I'm loathe to muck about with the arm if I decide to sell it, BUT it is definitely better than the 774 so it IS worth keeping and getting right too :doh:Well if you're going to keep the arm, get Angus to rewire it with the superflex stuff.
Then we can get you a nice arm cable and see where you're at.
Ok so a new cartridge arriving tomorrow, the FR arm will be put back on Friday sometime and we'll see how that goes.
I'll try the new cart in the 774 first mind you, just to get a comparison
New cartridge fitted along with a borrowed RCA cable, let the run in begin..... I don't have it setup 100%, that's for tomorrow when my SmarTactor returns [emoji6]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/5b7c5aebbdf0ff1a59a351a05a69104c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/d0f486205f3f48cb8e3c00a2d1150611.jpg
hifi_dave
13-06-2019, 15:33
Nice pics.
Nice pics.Ta, unfortunately straight out of the phone as Tapatalk doesn't like the edited ones for some reason.
Bigman80
13-06-2019, 15:56
Is it me or the camera angle because that headshell fixing screw/chuck looks awfy close to the vinyl?
Either way, fingers crossed it does the trick
WESTLOWER
13-06-2019, 15:59
New cartridge fitted along with a borrowed RCA cable, let the run in begin..... I don't have it setup 100%, that's for tomorrow when my SmarTactor returns [emoji6]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/5b7c5aebbdf0ff1a59a351a05a69104c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/d0f486205f3f48cb8e3c00a2d1150611.jpg
It's back on special delivery Mike
Should be with you by 1pm.
Btw, you should try one of those Denon 103 caps that were doing th edam rounds here.
i was at Petrat's place with one on and makes a nice improvement on an already tidy cartridge.
Thanks again!
Is it me or the camera angle because that headshell fixing screw/chuck looks awfy close to the vinyl?
Either way, fingers crossed it does the trickJust the angle of the photo [emoji6]
It's back on special delivery Mike
Should be with you by 1pm.
Btw, you should try one of those Denon 103 caps that were doing th edam rounds here.
i was at Petrat's place with one on and makes a nice improvement on an already tidy cartridge.
Thanks again!That's great, thanks [emoji3526]
I know I should have put the Kontrapunkt back on when the loaner cable but I thought I bought as well get the hours done on the Denon and then compare.
hifi_dave
13-06-2019, 16:09
I've got 800 quid worth of Nikon and everything I shoot is fuzzy and/or out of focus. Your pics are spot on.
Anyone wanna buy a Nikon ?
I've got 800 quid worth of Nikon and everything I shoot is fuzzy and/or out of focus. Your pics are spot on.
Anyone wanna buy a Nikon ?Easier with a smartphone, I have £1000's of Canon kit here I hardly use nowadays, our last 3 holidays have mostly been shot on my phone, unless I've been after specific shots
Couple of phone examples...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/6a84f5dded5d1712e7b43565804b72b1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/df82b8211abe5f054117f73a82b03e66.jpg
jeromesabbagh
28-06-2019, 19:16
Hi,
I am considering trying to buy an FR-64fx to use with a Mijayima mono cartridge. The cartridge seems to want 3.5g VTF. The range of VTF on the FR-64fx seems to only go to 3g. Is there a way to get higher tracking force on the FR-64fx, given that is is dynamically balanced? I'm a bit confused ... Thanks!
montesquieu
29-06-2019, 12:59
Hi,
I am considering trying to buy an FR-64fx to use with a Mijayima mono cartridge. The cartridge seems to want 3.5g VTF. The range of VTF on the FR-64fx seems to only go to 3g. Is there a way to get higher tracking force on the FR-64fx, given that is is dynamically balanced? I'm a bit confused ... Thanks!
Get an electronic scale, and use a combination of the counterweight and dynamic force from the adjuster to give you the 3.5-4g needed (I run mine at 4g). It's not an issue at all. Make sure the overall mass though is sufficient, the Miyajima monos like a high-mass arm so you want to be using a heavy headshell, and a heavy counterweight to balance it all.
Coming late to this thread, FWIW, the FR64x is a superb arm that like the older FR64S can benefit from a rewire. These started to be made in the 80s so the oldest of them could be 30-odd years old. I would recommend sending this to Angus for a bearing fettle (or replacement if they can't be adjusted to spec) and a rewire. Mal-adjusted bearings can give audible effects. BTW there was a Yannis cable for sale briefly the other day either here or on PFM, it went fast but I could also recommend Hugo's new cables the copper one here could well do the trick and not expensive in the grand scheme of things. https://ammonite-audio.co.uk/product/zavfino-1877phono-the-mahone-tonearm-cable/ I'm running the silver one at the moment with the Ikeda arm.
Get an electronic scale, and use a combination of the counterweight and dynamic force from the adjuster to give you the 3.5-4g needed (I run mine at 4g). It's not an issue at all. Make sure the overall mass though is sufficient, the Miyajima monos like a high-mass arm so you want to be using a heavy headshell, and a heavy counterweight to balance it all.
Coming late to this thread, FWIW, the FR64x is a superb arm that like the older FR64S can benefit from a rewire. These started to be made in the 80s so the oldest of them could be 30-odd years old. I would recommend sending this to Angus for a bearing fettle (or replacement if they can't be adjusted to spec) and a rewire. Mal-adjusted bearings can give audible effects. BTW there was a Yannis cable for sale briefly the other day either here or on PFM, it went fast but I could also recommend Hugo's new cables the copper one here could well do the trick and not expensive in the grand scheme of things. https://ammonite-audio.co.uk/product/zavfino-1877phono-the-mahone-tonearm-cable/ I'm running the silver one at the moment with the Ikeda arm.Thanks Tom for the info, I saw that Yannis cable but was wary of silver as I'm sure that's not good to my ears.
I've looked at Hugo's cables before and thought they were a good buy, in fact I think I saw you mention them a wee while ago.
Changing to the Denon 103R is suiting me better than the Kontrapunkt B, I'm up to 30+ hours on it and is sounds great.
jeromesabbagh
29-06-2019, 20:09
@montesquieu: Thanks a lot! I will see if I can get a FR-64fx
Not to derail this thread, but I think you used a Miyajima Zero on an Audio Technica ATP-12T. What do you think of that combination? Do you think the ATP-12T compares to the FR-64fx? It seems the ATP-12T can still be had for pretty cheap and I was considering that option as well, since cost and cost effectiveness is an issue for me. ATP-12T seems to be 21g, while the FR-64fx is 20g. I was also considering the FR-24 Mk II (17g), which is also more cost effective.
Any advice from people who have tried these arms with a Miyajima mono cartridge or comparable would be very appreciated.
I am also curious as to differences between the Miyajima Spirit and the Miyajima Zero. Thanks!
Best,
Jerome
montesquieu
29-06-2019, 21:28
@montesquieu: Thanks a lot! I will see if I can get a FR-64fx
Not to derail this thread, but I think you used a Miyajima Zero on an Audio Technica ATP-12T. What do you think of that combination? Do you think the ATP-12T compares to the FR-64fx? It seems the ATP-12T can still be had for pretty cheap and I was considering that option as well, since cost and cost effectiveness is an issue for me. ATP-12T seems to be 21g, while the FR-64fx is 20g. I was also considering the FR-24 Mk II (17g), which is also more cost effective.
Any advice from people who have tried these arms with a Miyajima mono cartridge or comparable would be very appreciated.
I am also curious as to differences between the Miyajima Spirit and the Miyajima Zero. Thanks!
Best,
Jerome
Yes I rate the ATP-12T (and its near identical 'professional counterpart, the AT1503) very highly, in fact for my kind of lower compliance cartridges I very much prefer them over arms that seemingly have more features such as the AT1010 (I had one of these on my Garrard 401 before swapping it out for the AT1503). Bear in mind they are more like a nine and a half or 10 inch arm rather than a standard 9 inch and you may struggle to fit them on some plinths.
In standard form while very musical they can be a shade unrefined but Angus (Phonomac here) fettled mine with new hybrid ceramic bearings, a quality rewire, and damping in the arm tube which resulted in an arm that is a really high performer. Some may be concerned about the lack of bias adjustment but run at 4g as it typically is for SPUs or mono Miyajimas, this issue isn't one to be concerned about. (As you can see I have Zero Mono 0.7, 1.0 and Edison/Kotetu 78 Miyajima monos, and Miyajima Madake and Takumi stereo cartridges in my stable). All run in cartridge + headshell assemblies of around 30g (SPU weight).
Properly fettled this is a giant killer of an arm. Mine was the AT1503 Mk1 which is the arm developed in conjunction with Technics for broadcast motor unit SP10, and many early SP10 rigs with original plinth also have this arm as standard. It's still in production as the Mk4 (I think) - along with the AT1010 there has been some debate as to whether it was built for AT by Audiocraft, I'm not sure if that question has ever been satisfactorily resolved. (I'm no expert in AT production history!).
jeromesabbagh
01-07-2019, 13:02
Yes I rate the ATP-12T (and its near identical 'professional counterpart, the AT1503) very highly, in fact for my kind of lower compliance cartridges I very much prefer them over arms that seemingly have more features such as the AT1010 (I had one of these on my Garrard 401 before swapping it out for the AT1503). Bear in mind they are more like a nine and a half or 10 inch arm rather than a standard 9 inch and you may struggle to fit them on some plinths.
In standard form while very musical they can be a shade unrefined but Angus (Phonomac here) fettled mine with new hybrid ceramic bearings, a quality rewire, and damping in the arm tube which resulted in an arm that is a really high performer. Some may be concerned about the lack of bias adjustment but run at 4g as it typically is for SPUs or mono Miyajimas, this issue isn't one to be concerned about. (As you can see I have Zero Mono 0.7, 1.0 and Edison/Kotetu 78 Miyajima monos, and Miyajima Madake and Takumi stereo cartridges in my stable). All run in cartridge + headshell assemblies of around 30g (SPU weight).
Properly fettled this is a giant killer of an arm. Mine was the AT1503 Mk1 which is the arm developed in conjunction with Technics for broadcast motor unit SP10, and many early SP10 rigs with original plinth also have this arm as standard. It's still in production as the Mk4 (I think) - along with the AT1010 there has been some debate as to whether it was built for AT by Audiocraft, I'm not sure if that question has ever been satisfactorily resolved. (I'm no expert in AT production history!).
Thanks! This is very useful! Hesitating between the ATP-12T and the FR-24 MK II at this point ...
montesquieu
01-07-2019, 13:18
Thanks! This is very useful! Hesitating between the ATP-12T and the FR-24 MK II at this point ...
For different cartridges ... my preference would be ATP-12T but it would depend what you were using it with.
jeromesabbagh
01-07-2019, 14:24
For different cartridges ... my preference would be ATP-12T but it would depend what you were using it with.
Thinking about Miyajima Spirit high output or Miyajima Zero if I can afford it ... Definitely a mono setup mostly, although I might change cartridges once in a while.
montesquieu
01-07-2019, 15:07
Thinking about Miyajima Spirit high output or Miyajima Zero if I can afford it ... Definitely a mono setup mostly, although I might change cartridges once in a while.
Zero is perfect for the ATP12T .. Adam (Westlower here) is using exactly that setup.
WESTLOWER
01-07-2019, 15:23
Zero is perfect for the ATP12T .. Adam (Westlower here) is using exactly that setup.
Indeed, that arm works a treat on the Miyajima Zero mono cartridge.
Really is a good combination
jeromesabbagh
01-07-2019, 16:02
Thank you!
Did anyone try the FR-24 Mk II by any chance?
Well my FR arm is currently away for rewire, service and upgrade so we'll how it sounds on return.
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