Magna Audio's custom-made counterweight balance and armboard service!

[Marco]

Guys,

Anyone looking for a custom-made brass C/W, perhaps for balancing out a heavy headshell being used with a DL-103, or maybe just making an existing arm look sexier - whatever the reason, Steve can help :)

Here are the details (taken from this thread in The Drawing Board: http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?p=119188#post119188)


I have most usual sizes of hole cutters and could build a database of them.
If there are odd sizes I can machine out larger ones if a short length but it better to drill or holecut.
These would have a simple grubscrew and slide on unless there's a spiral carrier that lets you slide a different weight on like the Acos PL-71 arm does...

So if you want a weight let me know :
- diameter size inner
- diameter size outer
- what mass.

I can then work out how much needed. Perhaps there is a cheat sheet on the web for this. I only really want to use brass as it's nice to machine - forget titanium. Gold at your expense and I would keep the filings and off cut:)

I will see what bar stock I have or have to order more.

I tend to just finish with fine emery cloth as lifes too short for mirror finishing polishing and unless you lacquer they tarnish. The satin finish you see in the pics lasts for at least months like that.
Lacquering would be possible too

Could certainly do normal sizes for £25 + postage.


PM Steve if interested (email details to follow) :cool:

Marco.

[jandl100]

Interesting!

I am in need of a heavy counterweight for my Technics 1210 to counterbalance my very heavy re-bodied Denon 103.

But ... I don't have the means to weigh the thing accurately - all I know is that it takes four 2p pieces blu-tacked together and on to the end of the standard Techie c/w to make it balance!

Any ideas how I can specify and quantify my requirements so Steve knows what to make? :scratch:

[Stratmangler]

Get one of these http://direct.asda.com/Salter-Disc-Kitchen-Scale/001410914,default,pd.html and you'll at least know how heavy the counterweight needs to be.

[jandl100]

Thanks for that, Chris - a visit to Asda may be in my near future. :)

[Stratmangler]

You're welcome Jerry.
When you say balanced, do you mean at equilibrium, or do you mean with VTF applied ?
If at equilibrium, is the counterweight at the end of its' rearward travel ? - you may be able to factor in some additional mass to the counterweight to enable you to move the counterweight nearer to the pivot point and thus lower the interia of the arm assembly and also lower the effective mass slightly.
In my experience the closer that weight is to the pivot point the better the situation is.

[jandl100]

You're welcome Jerry.
When you say balanced, do you mean at equilibrium, or do you mean with VTF applied ?

Yup, with vtf applied.

[The Vinyl Adventure]

4 2p coins weighs an oz / 28.5 g

[jandl100]

4 2p coins weighs an oz / 28.5 g

Aha! -thanks, Hamish.

.... and how much does the standard Techie c/w weigh? :)

[REM]

4 2p coins weighs an oz / 28.5 g

So how come you know a 2p weighs a quarter oz?;)

[Stratmangler]

Well I found this http://www.royalmint.com/Corporate/facts/coins/2pCoin.aspx

[Stratmangler]

Slight thread drift http://www.royalmint.com/store/BritishBase/DU10.aspx - note that there is a specification section for the coin set, and this shows the metallic composition of all of the coins currently in circulation.

[Magna Audio]

Marco created this thread following my making him an ebony armboard for his superb SL-1210 deck.
There's a whole thread on that.

This thread is for counterweights and armboards and other things I hand craft.

Here is a little taster of the following pages of the products I make.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/8de60b659ed94ae8dc0bfba025dd5969.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/6e3b00338beb82927b5e9098a897621f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/51e333842a3f52f69641e62cd2871a1f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/a68bfbf1c173804f70f312f0880a0d18.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/273bbd0db099c7384f934601ce209e40.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/0f02fe2a4d9a75abe50d7baa897ecb53.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/8c757765f0a7b12e1cbfbdecd9d23851.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/aef8924a6424b49b7f3d4e21c21424d4.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/93f847dd7b2e78e144be8ff3dffd6f32.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/ab736f4970e0b63c3d27f3d90f06f978.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/1a58762059b1a23e45a40ed6202d2bcb.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/8ab36c79585ad5f50d9db1362687abae.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/e223adbe60cc0b0f82f0fd502d28f64a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/8fd1d4f97eb2a25925d0d5aab18c7fff.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/ae15b1202e6cd9fabc97420c5978eda9.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/eb48120e75328b791c68c6fddd0ba0f8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/330ff0f2b3fd1d1d2ca485430b86ba71.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/0dfc8321738807d2f6c36bd8febb2e32.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/5600b074754f84f680888eb4bb4a7586.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/abe80dcb74499ef0e7c365df1d929257.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/66f52e58081573354801773af2cb466c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/28aea7a333f49d03ee2ca779d6279a50.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/eebd388ba63e5a2e246b9ee52009310d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/8aee86cb35b3bad6fa3f93856e7d0b2b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/8fd60eeee502cb1a965461518fd680bd.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/144b51b7b515fd7e5483ea019bcc082b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/e2307ad0c5da819f61642895cb61e8f1.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/5b7a2ea4dd3b06a49321be7c0fc304ac.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/9e0ce895f84b3d744bda2e22b34157f0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/5aac6db8ef3fb989170e94066f96bb31.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/effc0542612990a4ff2be4d7df0f443e.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/c2a3bfa4c2f12dc8a408bc8418fc4372.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/9dfce62ac814ac1318c10ad511248cf5.jpg

You can see more on my website (see link at the bottom).



Interesting!

I am in need of a heavy counterweight for my Technics 1210 to counterbalance my very heavy re-bodied Denon 103.

But ... I don't have the means to weigh the thing accurately - all I know is that it takes four 2p pieces blu-tacked together and on to the end of the standard Techie c/w to make it balance!

Any ideas how I can specify and quantify my requirements so Steve knows what to make? :scratch:

No probs. If you weigh the lot and let me know.
I had a Techie here until recently but sold it due to SP-10.
I'll need to find out the arm tube dia at the back. Perhaps a Techie owner can measure with a vernier caliper?

Are you ok with loosing the spiral spin heavy / lighter action?

Normally I would just drill out to the right dia and use a grub screw to secure - bit more difficult to weigh in as you have to just slide the weight with light grip on from the grubscrew and when right tighten suitably tight.
This is how a Rega or Schick 12" is done;)
Prob improves rigidity to the arm...

[The Vinyl Adventure]

So how come you know a 2p weighs a quarter oz?;)

For the same reason I know a penny weighs an 8th oz / 3.56g ;)

[The Vinyl Adventure]

If I can find my digi's il weigh the counterwieght for you jerry...

[The Vinyl Adventure]

99.66g

i have a whole spare techie tone arm here... i would happily loan it to you steve for referance if that will help?

[The Vinyl Adventure]

Slight thread drift http://www.royalmint.com/store/BritishBase/DU10.aspx - note that there is a specification section for the coin set, and this shows the metallic composition of all of the coins currently in circulation.

I quite like the fact that if "coppers" were actually made of copper they would now be worth more than value they represent...

[jandl100]

No probs. If you weigh the lot and let me know. ...........

Thanks Steve for the reply & also the PMs about the LP clamp ...

& thanks to Hamish - it looks like my ideal counterweight would be 28.5 + 99.66 + a bit for the blu-tac! Call it 130g or a bit less.

A grub screw to secure is fine.

I'll need to find out the arm tube dia at the back. Perhaps a Techie owner can measure with a vernier caliper?
Can anyone help with this? :)

Hey - this is exciting, isn't it! :eek:

[Gdg]

15.85 mm

in imperial should be: 0.5 in + 6/128 (but not sure how to read this on caliper)

[The Vinyl Adventure]

... Arm tube dia... I'm happy to send steve my spare arm for him to use to get it right jerry
I'd quite like a custom counter balance too but purly for aesthetics... Is they any other benefit to them other than added weight (which it apears I don't need and have a jelco heavy one if I did)

Jerry ... Without wanting to lumber steve with loads of milling, have you thought about asking him to make you a big heavy weight/clamp?

[jandl100]

Jerry ... Without wanting to lumber steve with loads of milling, have you thought about asking him to make you a big heavy weight/clamp?

I certainly have! ;)

.... see my reply to Steve above. :)

[jandl100]

I'll need to find out the arm tube dia at the back. Perhaps a Techie owner can measure with a vernier caliper?
Can anyone help with this? :)


15.85 mm

in imperial should be: 0.5 in + 6/128 (but not sure how to read this on caliper)

Many thanks, Giovanni! :)

Does that sound OK, Steve?

[Magna Audio]

1st one made up for jandl100

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36212516832_5d8da1733b_z_d.jpg

Be in the post tomorrow.

[jandl100]

WOW! - that looks seriously cool. :smoking:

Thanks Steve! :eek:

[Gdg]

1st one made up for jandl100
Be in the post tomorrow.

Steve, did you provide one screw only, don't you?
Why didn't you try with two? maybe with allen key head.

[Magna Audio]

Allen key grubs esp small ones have a habit of spinning out.
Plus I can make a grub with a simple crosscut thus keeping costs down.
On something like a counter weight 2 would be rather overkill, but of course doable if spec'd.

[Gdg]

Allen key grubs esp small ones have a habit of spinning out.


well, that was the reason why I asked about 2 screws (grubs?).
Allen key makes feel comfortable about not breaking the head of the screw.

[Magna Audio]

No doubt bigger allen key grubs would be ok. I've had 2 and 3mm ones that were not upto it.
These are M5 anyway so beefy enough for the job!

[jandl100]

Received the c/w from Steve - Speedy indeed! :)

Doh ! :doh: What a dill-brain I am. Why didn't I check the measurement on my tonearm rather than only relying on Giovanni's measurement on his arm? :doh:

Just roughly guessing by holding a ruler, my arm tube diameter where the c/w goes is about 12-13mm, which is rather smaller than Giovanni's 15.85mm. :doh:

Still, the Denon cart likes a nicely compliant mounting, so the layers of electrical tape I have wrapped around the arm to make a better fit should be fine then, eh? :mental:

:doh::doh::doh::doh:

No, I've not listened to the tt with this setup yet. Just set the tracking weight. I got a bit discouraged so it was CD all the way yesterday! :lol:

[Magna Audio]

Oh! All is not lost however - Send it back to me and I will make an interference fit sleeve to go inside the 16mm that is drilled out to either the 12mm or 13mm you need.
You do need to tell me the exact diameter of the tube though so I can drill out to right size.

When the face is machined / polished anew you will hardly be able to see the hairline where the two join.

Other option is I can reuse your VW on a PL-71 order I have as that needs a bit centre hole...

I think loads of elec tape will have the same effect as the Rega counterweight stub that OL replaces with proper solid one to fit CW on.

[jandl100]

Thanks, Steve

All errors are entirely my fault! :mental:

Actually, listening to the tt this morning, it sounds noticeably more together than with my previous bodge-up with the 2p pieces blu-tacked on the end of the standard Techie c/w.

But I think I will take you up on your kind offer and return it for the internal 'sleeve' you mention, also an added bit of weight would be fine, too, as the c/w is riding toward the back of the shaft.

Also, is it possible to add an extra grub-screw about 2/3rds of the way back on the c/w? Otherwise it can wobble a bit if the fit isn't perfect.

Happy to meet your parts and labour costs on ths mess-up, of course. :)

Can you just drop me your address by PM.

[Stratmangler]

Jerry

You might find this useful http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=219911

[jandl100]

Good idea, Chris!

I'll measure my own kit up properly this time before I send it back to Steve!

[John]

Jerry how r u finding the new speakers

[Magna Audio]

Have PM'd you.
Extra grub no problem.

You can get digi vernier calipers cheap sometimes at places like Lidl but that brass one looks good and manual;-)

[Rare Bird]

Jerry

You might find this useful http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=219911

Na you need a digital micrometer, there's loads on flea bay cheap

[Stratmangler]

Summat like this ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6Inch-150mm-Digital-LCD-Caliper-Micrometer-Vernier-Tool-/370373397370?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item563bf98b7a

[Magna Audio]

yep. I have something similar and it works pretty well.

[jandl100]

Jerry how r u finding the new speakers

Well, this is a bit OT. :offtopic: :eyebrows:

They are satisfactory so far. On 30 day trial - 2 days in. A fair bit of running in on these brand new speakers I should think, but they seem satisfactory so far. To say the least. :eek:

:carrot:

[jandl100]

Summat like this ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6Inch-150mm-Digital-LCD-Caliper-Micrometer-Vernier-Tool-/370373397370?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item563bf98b7a

Yep - OK. I've just bought one of these doodads, should get it by mid next week, I guess.
I'll send the c/w back to you then, Steve, with an accurate measurement! :lol:

[Gdg]

...holy sheet,
I made a mistake reading the caliper :doh: .

The correct diameter size of the back of the tonearm is 13.84 mm.
I checked it again right now, and it's the same value for both the tonearms of the SL 1210 M5G & MK5 (the MK5 has the same tonearm of MK2).

Lesson learned: never do stuff like this after an heavy day of work.

Sorry to everybody.
:(

[jandl100]

Moral of the story: Never believe what you read on the internet! :lol:

[Magna Audio]

Ok - I'll wait for part and confirmation of 13.84mm (14mm tolerance fit) from jandl100.

Extra 2mm of material should add the grams you want too.

/Steve

[jandl100]

...holy sheet,
I made a mistake reading the caliper :doh: .

Sorry to everybody.
:(

Hi Giovanni

It really is not a problem.

Apart from the size of the hole, there are a couple of things that really need sorting anyway ...

1) the weight isn't quite high enough, so the extra weight of the insert that Steve can do should sort that

and 2) it really needs an extra grub screw to hold it securely to the arm - one isn't enough to do that properly

So there are excellent reasons to send the c/weight back to Steve anyway.

Please don't concern yourself, it isn't a problem! :cool:

[Gdg]

Hi Giovanni

It really is not a problem.

Apart from the size of the hole, there are a couple of things that really need sorting anyway ...

1) the weight isn't quite high enough, so the extra weight of the insert that Steve can do should sort that

and 2) it really needs an extra grub screw to hold it securely to the arm - one isn't enough to do that properly

So there are excellent reasons to send the c/weight back to Steve anyway.

Please don't concern yourself, it isn't a problem! :cool:

Thank you Jerry,
this was a very embarrassing situation, for me.

[Magna Audio]

3 weights made for a PL-71 customer arm 16mm hole, weighs are 78g, 98g and 118g to take a range of carts from 9g to 30g and give the extra mass the SPU needs on a 9" arm.
The latter will take the full SPU weight perfectly (ala GM/ Silver Meister etc).
(I know this cos' I have the SPU Silver Meister on my PL-71 arm at the moment:) )


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/a9fa8747d371bc7dbfdb17302c6463b3.jpg

[Marco]

Hi Steve,

Looking good, matey!

Btw, I have another idea for a product option - how about doing custom-made arm plates? I suspect that there would be loads of people interested in those when fitting new tonearms to their turntables....

I know that Paul Hynes, for example, is looking for an SME-type arm plate for an SL-1210, so if you could make one, I'd PM him :)

Marco.

[Rare Bird]

Hi Steve,

Looking good, matey!

Btw, I have another idea for a product option - how about doing custom-made arm plates? I suspect that there would be loads of people interested in those when fitting new tonearms to their turntables....



Well i was gonna ask if he steve has the facilities to make me a New armboard pod for SME Mount..

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/LIVING-SIN/TT.jpg

[Magna Audio]

Well i was gonna ask if he steve has the facilities to make me a New armboard pod for SME Mount..

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/LIVING-SIN/TT.jpg

Depends on the material and shape - Mr Coco was over a while back cutting half inch thick gun metal for his (now mine) armboard.
That was a 4 sided polygon with slot for SME base and 4 tapped M3 holes (I think they were M3) to take the slider.
SME have pretty good jigs I think which helps.

[Rare Bird]

Depends on the material and shape - Mr Coco was over a while back cutting half inch thick gun metal for his (now mine) armboard.
That was a 4 sided polygon with slot for SME base and 4 tapped M3 holes (I think they were M3) to take the slider.
SME have pretty good jigs I think which helps.

Well it's exactly the same as that armboard pictured above as that is my armboard.

I don't want the sausage shape SME i was wanting it like Michell do for the Gyro, Easier for you, will allow me to fit a mission 774 original easier if i need to..the original is aluminium.

[Magna Audio]

What is the diameter? Clamping large flat things in my chuck might be problematic...

[Rare Bird]

What is the diameter? Clamping large flat things in my chuck might be problematic...

Your right it would be a small nightmare to make..I've an idea would it be possible to make a Linn type mounting collar with a specified diameter bore?

I don't want the scoupe in it as pictured but i do want side entry grub screw. I could try get one to work from! Only requires three tapings undeside for fixing to deck.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/LIVING-SIN/Collar.jpg

[Magna Audio]

Your right it would be a small nightmare to make..I've an idea would it be possible to make a Linn type mounting collar with a specified diameter bore?

I don't want the scoupe in it as pictured but i do want side entry grub screw. I could try get one to work from! Only requires three tapings undeside for fixing to deck.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a222/LIVING-SIN/Collar.jpg

Looks reasonable.
Something to work from would be good to get the underside tappings in exactly the right place.

[Rare Bird]

Looks reasonable.
Something to work from would be good to get the underside tappings in exactly the right place.

Brill i'll see if i can locate one..

[DSJR]

The sad thing is that you couldn't give LVV arms away not that long ago, and the base plate was the same as the Ittok one. I don't know why, but the LVV now sells for more than the LVX quite often - £100 or so.. Madness IMO

[jandl100]

Herewith & attached a recent pic of my Techie 1210 with special heavy brass c/weight by speedysteve for my massive re-bodied Denon 103.

I've had the c/w a while and it does an excellent job .... but the brass colour just increasingly irritated me! ... such a sharp contrast with everything else on the deck.

So for a couple of £ on good ol' fleaBay I picked up a small jar of silver chrome paint .... ah, that's better! :)
[Ackcherly - the silver paint job hasn't come out well with the camera flash - the actual beastie looks better than that].


http://i262.photobucket.com/albums/ii114/jandl100/cwtchrome.jpg

[Magna Audio]

Mr Coco being a clever sort of chap who needed a big CW for his Alphason / IO lump:) did some research as to metal densities and came up with Tungsten being good and dense. Bit hard to work Tungsten perhaps so a Tungsten / Copper alloy was found.

According to the Coco metal density bible, densities are:-
75% Tungsten 25% Copper – Density 14.75
Tungsten Alloy – Density 16.9
Tungsten 99.95% - Density 19.3
Molybdenum 99.95% - Density 10.22
Steel is 7.8ish and brass is 8.5ish. So the copper/tungsten is about twice as much.

Here is a first weight made up for my arm (12" wand on PL-71 arm base & SPU Silver Meister cart).

Here is the comparison with the lash up I was using before - moves the mass much further in!


Slightly pink copper look that will dull as it slowly oxidises.

Moving the mass in is apparently a good thing to do - reduces the inertia and looks better not having a lump hanging over the end...


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/8b9ca36ca020ba93ce1b94e4b8fd742c.jpg

[Alex_UK]

Looks great Steve. I'd forgotten you are doing these - I need to sort something for my SME 3009 S2 Improved now I am running a Sumiko headshell, currently lashed up with two 50p pieces and some white-tack - it should be a fairly straightforward job, just a cylindrical weight with a thread and then a threaded piece:

Basically this is the standard one (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SME-3009-S2-Improved-Tonearm-counter-weight-/200472254320?pt=Turntable_Parts_Accessories#ht_320 1wt_945), and it needs to be heavier. Is that something you would be able to do? (And rough cost - PM if you like.) Cheers!

[Magna Audio]

Here is a CW for Mr Coco. He wanted 240g which would be rather large in brass or SS.
This is to balance his IO electromag cart...

He found Tungsten - I said isn't that rather hard to work? So Tungsten copper alloy was the trick, being pretty heavy - just 10cm of it at 41mm dia weighed 2.4kg!

Here is the new weight vs the Alphason ~ 100g one.

Note the inner nylon sleeve which presumably acts as a dampening. The grub actually presses the nylon tube onto the
CW arm stub.



The slight salmon tinge is quite nice and fades away a bit with some weathering.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/4ca7fc9f6c12cbac68ba1c30d0caf6d6.jpg

[Magna Audio]

Here is a brass CW for AOS member naimless.
120g to replace the lost CW for his PL-71.
Handy that I have a PL-71 to test it on.



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/6ad1b71542c73ad9c04dae6e9fe3b004.jpg

[DSJR]

Looks great Steve. I'd forgotten you are doing these - I need to sort something for my SME 3009 S2 Improved now I am running a Sumiko headshell, currently lashed up with two 50p pieces and some white-tack - it should be a fairly straightforward job, just a cylindrical weight with a thread and then a threaded piece:

Basically this is the standard one (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SME-3009-S2-Improved-Tonearm-counter-weight-/200472254320?pt=Turntable_Parts_Accessories#ht_320 1wt_945), and it needs to be heavier. Is that something you would be able to do? (And rough cost - PM if you like.) Cheers!

Alex, I don't mean to stand on Mr Speedy's toes, but don't SME themselves do a heavier screw-in counterweight for the "improved" 3009S2? I'm sure Steve could make you up something special though as long as he knows the thread pitch needed.

[Rare Bird]

Looks great Steve. I'd forgotten you are doing these - I need to sort something for my SME 3009 S2 Improved now I am running a Sumiko headshell, currently lashed up with two 50p pieces and some white-tack - it should be a fairly straightforward job, just a cylindrical weight with a thread and then a threaded piece:

Basically this is the standard one (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SME-3009-S2-Improved-Tonearm-counter-weight-/200472254320?pt=Turntable_Parts_Accessories#ht_320 1wt_945), and it needs to be heavier. Is that something you would be able to do? (And rough cost - PM if you like.) Cheers!

Can't you do what they did with the Syrinx PU2 with the additional Mass ring, this would be the best way for obvious reasons.

[Alex_UK]

Alex, I don't mean to stand on Mr Speedy's toes, but don't SME themselves do a heavier screw-in counterweight for the "improved" 3009S2? I'm sure Steve could make you up something special though as long as he knows the thread pitch needed.

Yes, they do, but based on the price of the standard one it would be at least £50 delivered inc. VAT. I had/have bought one off ebay for £20, but the seller has been an f'in nightmare, took ages to send it, and then when it came it wasn't the heavy (140g) one at all, but a standard one at 108g! So now looks like I will have to go back to the drawing board I suspect. To be fair, the 50ps white-tacked to the end hardly notice anyway... I may just find a suitable cover instead. (Been trying various platic bottle tops eg. fabric conditioner, one of which may actually work ok trimmed down and sprayed silver!)

[Alex_UK]

Can't you do what they did with the Syrinx PU2 with the additional Mass ring, this would be the best way for obvious reasons.

Don't know that arm Andre, but did think that maybe Steve could just machine a sleeve or "cup" that fitted around the current weight, adding the extra 32g or so that I need. Having just Googled Syrinx PU2, I think that is basically the same idea - thanks.

[DSJR]

The Syrinx was slightly different, as the mass ring fitted over the whole lateral bearing assembly, giving asymetric inertia - more lateral inertia than vertical with ring fitted.

I wish SME would re-consider their spares pricing structure. It's not as if dealers have huge margins on their products either I understand ;)

[Rare Bird]

The Syrinx was slightly different, as the mass ring fitted over the whole lateral bearing assembly, giving asymetric inertia - more lateral inertia than vertical with ring fitted.



Hi Dave
Thought youd be along to say that :lolsign: , your correct of coarse. I was just thinking about doing the same but fixing it to the weight instead, save machining cost aswell id have thought

[Magna Audio]

Latest weight
A 150g in Tungsten copper alloy for a SL-1210 for a chap in Italy.
Rather interesting idea - 3 extra holes for grub screws to add / remove weight!
Unfortunately he had to wait a while as the belt on my lathe broke and I was waiting for a new one to arrive before I could finish the piece.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/116637127f8655f866869bcf138ec70b.jpg

[Reid Malenfant]

Hi Steve, you certainly do a very neat job :)

I might need a new weight machining for my Aiwa AP2600 which is fitted with a standard arm. That may one day change.

I guess i'll find out when i fit a Sumiko headshell & a modified Denon DL103 :eyebrows:

Now from what i gather you don't trust the standard adjusters & you like to directly connect the counterweight (though possibly via a nylon bush?) to the arm proper?

If that's the case & i work out what mass i need, if i measure the arm with a micrometer would you be able to machine a new counterweight for me or would you need other information?

Thanks in advance :)

[Magna Audio]

It depends on the stub arrangement. My PL-71 arm has a damped stub and a weight carrier with spiral adjuster on the stub - weights just need to sleeve over that and grub in.
Other arms are simply counterweight grubbing on to arm stub like Rega.
It was the Alphason arms that had a nylon inner sleeve with the grub acting on the nylon to clamp through to the stub so I copied that arrangement.

Making a a spiral screw to work like the commercial arms have is beyond my DIY set up so it's choose from one of the above.

I think there is definitely something to be said for damping the stub or the CW in some way on some arms.

If you know the weight and outer and inner diameter needed I can calc the length to get that weight. Brass it has to be as I don't want to machine SS and the Tungsten copper alloy is only a special order and will be a lot more expensive.

[Magna Audio]

Latest work - a Rega R200 12" conversion.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/042d81bf45c598d068ca72822846ce32.jpg

First remove the old butt plug and cable

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/e65ae9883697254496dd5bd4b1fba09b.jpg

Wand fitted & wired with Silver Litz

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/dd1ef8c8d4f72d830359fce856a02da7.jpg

Then a counterweight

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/47c2697350fe08ccc7224401d867bcaa.jpg

and a VTA adjustable base (the original was plastic and you had to add or remove bits making it very crude)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/bccfb3c53e74bcba663f02913f84f760.jpg

Cardas din plug


Awaiting the 90deg angle socket to finish the project.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/33b96a87509053a55bfbbf74672a91d8.jpg

[Spectral Morn]

Nice job :)


Regards D S D L

[Magna Audio]

Then it was just to make up the Cardas socketed lead (also Litz Silver

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/097c55bd6c0af1ee9b7719ac8646c935.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/60684c70b15e2eddc5b7bdb0fee516c0.jpg

Set up and test with a couple of carts



Note the target weight for the CW was a normal weight headshell and cart but it handled the Sumiko and SPU Royal N fine with the CW a little farther out than I would recommend - did sound good!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/2a1fcd1176dcfd3a056dd2600e1fa08f.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/615921fa6a84ff55bb315c90a7a66bd0.jpg

[Rare Bird]

Nice job steve..

[chris@panteg]

looks real nice :)

[DSJR]

Oh no Steve, you've really got me thinking now....... How easy is it to fit the variable height pieces? The plastic spacer has good and bad about it and is the main weakness I think and I'd love to be abe to adjust the playing height ;)

[Magna Audio]

Oh no Steve, you've really got me thinking now....... How easy is it to fit the variable height pieces? The plastic spacer has good and bad about it and is the main weakness I think and I'd love to be abe to adjust the playing height ;)

Hehe, fiddlers paradise!

[skriefal]

I can't PM speedy.steve. Are you still offering this service?

[Marco]

Hi Scott,

Welcome to AoS :)

New members are required to post a minimum of five times on the forum before their PM facility is activated. This is to prevent instant spamming by any trolls.

However, in between the five posts minimum posting period, visitor messages can be sent to whomever you wish.

Furthermore, all new members are asked to pop into the welcome area and introduce themselves to our community, outlining their system and music tastes, so please do so on your next visit - cheers! :cool:

Marco.

[skriefal]

Ah. I noticed that I was able to PM you, so assumed that the block was specific to speedy.steve. I'd overlooked that you are the site owner, and so any new-user PM limitations probably don't apply. I'll be back... :)

[Marco]

Cool, Scott - no worries :)

Marco.

[Magna Audio]

Have sent you a pm skriefal - Happy to make you up one.

[Magna Audio]

Latest weights.
One for Finland for a SL-1210

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/6168316123a41c3030140f726310ff25.jpg

One for Oxford for PL-71

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/a250e6233e581927d23b258786853084.jpg

[HdS]

It's a perfect fit. Many thanks to Steve!

[Magna Audio]

Great.


It's a perfect fit. Many thanks to Steve!

[cesrig]

I found this page through Google. The rig I've been building is a massive 18g AT-LH18 headshell with a Denon 103 on a KAB 1200. The poor counterweight can't take it, even with the auxiliary weight added! Are you still in the counterweight business, I hope?

[Magna Audio]

I've sent you a message


I found this page through Google. The rig I've been building is a massive 18g AT-LH18 headshell with a Denon 103 on a KAB 1200. The poor counterweight can't take it, even with the auxiliary weight added! Are you still in the counterweight business, I hope?

[Lord Soth]

I found this page through Google. The rig I've been building is a massive 18g AT-LH18 headshell with a Denon 103 on a KAB 1200. The poor counterweight can't take it, even with the auxiliary weight added! Are you still in the counterweight business, I hope?

Dear Steve,

My requirements are similar to Cesrig's.

I also have a 18g AT-LH18 headshell with a Denon 103 cartridge.

The only difference is that my turntable is a Technics SL1210M5G with the stock tonearm.

Are you able to fashion a suitable counterweight for me based on your experience for your other customers?

Please PM me as I am also a newbie to this Forum.


Dear Cesrig,

Sorry to tap into your post. ;)

I also googled my way and ended up here in this lovely Forum.

[Lord Soth]

......

Are you able to fashion a suitable counterweight for me based on your experience for your other customers?

...

Hmm, I can't edit my prior posts in this Forum.

Dear Steve,

Please ignore my above-mentioned request.

I've decided to give my Denon Cart and AT Headshell to another audiophile friend of mine.

The above combo is just not meant for a stock Technics tonearm.... :doh:

I've decided to get an Audio Technica cart instead. This will save me all the needed upgrading pain.

:cool: (Cheers!)

[Reid Malenfant]

Hmm, I can't edit my prior posts in this Forum.
Hi Fred, you can edit them but the option evaporates into the ether after 24 hours ;)

[schneiderhan]

That's my counterweight there! Now fitted to the Pioneer and all set up nicely. The weight we calculated is spot-on. Many thanks to Steve - and sorry I didn't thank you earlier.

[Magna Audio]

Here are couple more...

210g for a Jelco

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/368d74f881958ff5126159d556de322b.jpg

204g

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/a4fe192cb2cff60c021adc8a2b8bf5fb.jpg

180g offset

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/950d3b4556f3d50f50d3715d306d2bc2.jpg

[tannoy man]

The 210 gram for a Jelco is mine, I only asked Steve to make it last night:eek:

[DAVEDWACK]

Here is a CW for Mr Coco. He wanted 240g which would be rather large in brass or SS.
This is to balance his IO electromag cart...

He found Tungsten - I said isn't that rather hard to work? So Tungsten copper alloy was the trick, being pretty heavy - just 10cm of it at 41mm dia weighed 2.4kg!

Here is the new weight vs the Alphason ~ 100g one.

Note the inner nylon sleeve which presumably acts as a dampening. The grub actually presses the nylon tube onto the
CW arm stub.

http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/47661/2904229510071997495S600x600Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2904229510071997495AgZWuY)

http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/29782/2934789410071997495S600x600Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2934789410071997495vJHsYf)

The slight salmon tinge is quite nice and fades away a bit with some weathering.

Hi Steve,

I've sent you a PM

Regards,

Dave

[Magna Audio]

Here it is Dave.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/3ed2189a67334f4ca61ec0fe0d0b99f2.jpg

[Magna Audio]

EBONY!

Started as a 5" x 5" x 2" lump.
All waxed and hard to tell what it was like.

Spun the corners off

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/edf573fba7666cf7c534e9a68a21e998.jpg

Smoothed a bit

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/aa29285b41873f985ce0bcec3862b7d0.jpg


Then a bit more and and as a quick test with some oil on to see how black it really goes

Pretty dark

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/38d8e64c31fc90e3ae5f0b1cd590c19a.jpg


Lots more turning and smoothing to go but it is going to look all right I think.

[Marco]

Hehehe... Not just ANY old SL-1210, boyo, but the main man's one! :eyebrows: ;)

Looking good so far, Steve. I love the depth of colour it's got in the last picture, after having been oiled - gorgeous! :stalks:

I have a good feeling about this armboard, both in terms of sonics and aesthetics! Looking forward to seeing further pics of progress - you're doing a great job so far, mate :cool:

Marco.

[Reid Malenfant]

Nice work :) Watch out Elf 'N' Safety don't try to track you down with all those belts everywhere :D

Just kidding ;) I have to think of everything before I switch on my bench saw, I'm sure you do the very same Steve ;)

[Magna Audio]

hehe - it's a 1940's Southbend lathe. What is H&S?
Why would you put your fingers anywhere near the belts when it's on?

Yes the table saw is much scarier - One of the technicians at our school (we had some serious kit there) chopped his thumb clean off on the table saw - Gold only knows what he was trying to do - I can't imaging putting my thumb anywhere near the blade - there are more imaginative ways to prod wood through than that!

I believe in the Darwin awards:-)

[Reid Malenfant]

hehe - it's a 1940's Southbend lathe. What is H&S?
Why would you put your fingers anywhere near the belts when it's on?

I believe in the Darwin awards:-)
Exactly, I'm on your side of the fence :eyebrows:

[Marco]

Looks like ebony has excellent sonic properties, otherwise they wouldn't be using it to make armtubes for these babies:

http://www.da-vinci-audio.com/#/tonearm/

;)

Marco.

[Marco]

Hi Steve,


Then a bit more and and as a quick test with some oil on to see how black it really goes...


Try and bring out the natural colour of the wood as much as possible :)

Marco.

[Magna Audio]

Hmm then it will be lighter but that photo / lighting doesn't really capture the effect it was just a quick shot with the DSLR on auto and under flash so looks blacker / not as alive as it will.


Hi Steve,


Try and bring out the natural colour of the wood as much as possible :)

Marco.

[Marco]

Hmm then it will be lighter...


That's absolutely fine. It's never going to exactly match the finish of the T/T, anyway, so if there's going to be a contrast, it may as well be one which shows the natural grain and beauty of the ebony wood! :)

Please polish it as highly as you can, too, as there is a shiny effect to the appearance of the MK5G Techy, so a matt finish wouldn't look right.


...but that photo / lighting doesn't really capture the effect it was just a quick shot with the DSLR on auto and under flash so looks blacker / not as alive as it will.

Yup, sure. "Alive" (and super-smooth, to the touch) is exactly the finished effect I'm looking for :cool:

Also, as discussed, try to use long black allen bolts (if possible) for securing the whole assembly, as I prefer the look of those, or if not, some other fixings with heads that are as unobtrustive as possible, perhaps countersunk, (anything but phillips screws). I'll leave the exact choice up to you. Cheers, dude!

Marco.

[Marco]

I suspect that this thread will be getting updated this weekend ;)

Marco.

[Magna Audio]

Marco drove down with his deck and left it with me for a few hours...

After removing the metal arm plate the first thing I had to do was make some bespoke blind nuts so that a one piece arm board can be fitted with access to the nuts that are recessed.

3 threaded steel pieces - oddly each recess in the deck is different.

They are retained from spinning when you drop the arm board bolts in and locate easily for tightening.

Here's the unfinished sunken arm aboard (needed to allow the Ortofon arm to be low enough and have a nice range of VTA.




I've never seen black saw dust / swarf from wood before! The flash makes it look grey but it really is black.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/d1e1150a338031209cfcfb2a5c501185.jpg

Trial fitting

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/271b7bed57ffc5f9e82ab0599955e5b0.jpg


Now with Ortofon arm base mounted. I love proper 2 piece arm bases like this. The FR64 had a similar arrangement.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/f7580a4a6679f7b37d0a168d9d4eecc3.jpg


The recess means you need a shorted allen key so you can get at the VTA bolt - something that was a challenge with the other board Marco was using. I cut one down for this.

Some shots with the arm in place and a spot of finishing and wax polishing done. These are under fluorescent light.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/d337fce50826d38a54b330808c3e8ec0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/caa6c2ab141ce58d144da71888ba77f9.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/fc7962d24ea846b28222899b18754340.jpg



On to testing with the VTA set and in the music room with more natural light.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/814c424c05d206f8a7cebede86575258.jpg


I made the board to look sympathetic to the curves of the Ortofon arm and the SPU.

We played the deck with Marco's SPU and my Royal N - interesting nuances in sound. The Royal N is a little smoother / refined in the top end. Ideal for classical - the Marco's SPU is more full bodied & with timbre in the mid and bass I like.
Marco tried a deck tap test and thought the Ebony better at damping than the metal board.

It sounded very good.
Marco is now driving home and will no doubt have some comments and report on how it sounds compared to the other arm boards listening on his system.

All in all I am very pleased with the result.

[Reid Malenfant]

Lovely work Steve :) Looks the business & I'm sure it'll do it to :cool:

[MartinT]

Very nice work, Steve. Looking forward to Marco's comments.

[keiths]

Lovely work Steve. I'm sure it sounds as good as it looks.

[Marco]

Not long in and bloody knackered... Drove a total of 435 miles today, but it was worth it! :)

Thanks again to Steve and Marie for their hospitality, and to Steve for the fantastic job he's done with the armboard. When you see it in the flesh, it looks superb and as if it was part of the original T/T! :eek:

I'll be crashing soon, so will offer my thoughts on the sonic differences the ebony armboard (compared to the birch ply and aluminium one) has made tomorrow.

Marco.

P.S Steve, I knew that I'd end up leaving something... The birch ply armboard, alignment ruler, screws and my little allen keys, are all on the table in your garage! So if you could pop them in the post for me, I'd be much obliged! :cool:

[Spectral Morn]

Beautiful job Steve. Looking fantastic Marco.


Regards D S D L

[Marco]

Cheers, Neil. The effort has definitely been worth it! :)

Btw, as an aside, on the way to Guildford, Del spotted this little antique/bric-a-brac shop, so we stopped and went in for a look....

There was some interesting bits and pieces in the front of the shop, but nothing we were interested in buying, but that changed when we went through the back and we saw a huge pile of records, which turned out to be mostly mint condition vintage classical recordings, from the 60s and 70s, on the likes of Deutsche Grammophon, Decca (FFRR and Ace of Clubs), RCA Victrola, Phillips, EMI (His Master's Voice), etc...

So I grabbed 75 of the best ones (all minty mint - some were even still sealed from new!!) and got them for, wait for it.................... £45! :D :eek: :eyebrows:

I'll list all the different titles in the Classical music section tomorrow. So, all in all, it's been a fab day!

Marco.

[sq225917]

Double bonus, that Ebony looks very nice Marco, Interested in your opinion on the sound.

[alfie2902]

Looks very nice indeed! Steve's made a nice job of that. It will be interesting to hear your thoughts on any differences you hear, Marco.

Those horns of Steve's are pretty impressive in size & performance! Did they float your boat?

[Spectral Morn]

Cheers, Neil. The effort has definitely been worth it! :)

Btw, as an aside, on the way to Guildford, Del spotted this little antique/bric-a-brac shop, so we stopped and went in for a look....

There was some interesting bits and pieces in the front of the shop, but nothing we were interested in buying, but that changed when we went through the back and we saw a huge pile of records, which turned out to be mostly mint condition vintage classical recordings, from the 60s and 70s, on the likes of Deutsche Grammophon, Decca (FFRR and Ace of Clubs), RCA Victrola, Phillips, EMI (His Master's Voice), etc...

So I grabbed 75 of the best ones (all minty mint - some were even still sealed from new!!) and got them for, wait for it.................... £45! :D :eek: :eyebrows:

I'll list all the different titles in the Classical music section tomorrow. So, all in all, it's been a fab day!

Marco.


Nice one Marco :)

Always love poking about antique, bric-a-brac, thrift shops, you just never know what you might find in them.


Regards D S D L

[WOStantonCS100]

That ebony board looks great; made for the deck... :thumbsup: ...which it was. :lol:

Interesting to note is that the SL-150MK2 came standard with a thick hardwood armboard bolted to a non-suspended sub-chassis. I've needed a replacement for mine for sometime. Maybe, ebony is the way to go.

[Marco]

Cheers, Biff!

So, the ebony armboard looks like the dogs danglies, but does it actually sound any good?

Well, I guess the best answer to that question is provided by the fact that, even though I was knackered after having driven 400+ miles there and back to collect my armboard that, despite that, I stayed up until 3am this morning listening to music! :D

I had intended to crash early, but thought 'fuck it', I've got to hear what this is like, so I reconnected and set up my T/T, stuck on Bert Jansch's 'Santa Barbara Honeymoon', which I'd been playing earlier at Steve's, sat back and listened, and was gobsmacked at what I was hearing..... :eek:

I won't go into 'hi-fi magazine reviewer mode', and waffle on with flowery prose to describe what I'm hearing, but it is absolutely obvious upon listening that, sonically, the ebony armboard suits the Ortofon arm and Techy down to a tee. Quite simply, no other armboard I've used, aluminium or birch ply, has made my T/T sound so good!

Having listened now to three different armboard materials, the sonic presentation that they offer is quite distinctive and marked. The aluminium one, which with the Jelco I'd been using for years, is good only up to the point that you hear something else which highlights the slightly hard edge and 'mechanical' signature it imparts on the music. There is plenty of detail, no obvious sonic nastiness, and everything appears as 'present and correct', but with certain recordings it can sound tonally bleached and not allow the natural colour in voices and instruments to fully 'bloom', thus the musical picture is presented to the listener somewhat monochromatically, than in more realistic and vibrant full 'Technicolor'.

Fitting the birch ply armboard cures the hard edge and somewhat mechanical presentation, imparted by the aluminium armboard, and without subduing any detail and information, allows the natural tonal colour in voices and instruments to 'mature' more, resulting in music sounding more convincing and believable, and thus more interesting to listen to. Basically, it removes a layer of coloration responsible for making recordings sound like recordings, rather than closer to real music.

What the ebony armboard does is takes that effect and runs with it further, making all music sound immediately 'right', as if at last the partnering tonearm has the perfect foundation on which to perform optimally. It does everything the birch ply armboard does and more, and in a way which imparts a gorgeously wide-open, massively detailed, tight and dynamic sound, with no sense of bloom or 'thickness', masking fine detail and destroying the music.

In that respect, good though the birch ply armboard was, the ebony one makes music it produces (in conjunction with the partnering tonearm) sound somewhat muddled and confused in comparison, particularly when midrange and high-frequency detail in recordings are being reproduced, and thus in that respect, the birch ply armboard, in comparison, throws a slight veil over proceedings. With the ebony armboard, there is absolutely none of that effect. It simply allows the tonearm and T/T to shine a bright light onto recordings and serve up huge dollops of grin-inducing musical insight.

Nothing of course is perfect, and thus one must always accept that all music reproduced through a hi-fi system is a compromise, but try as I may, so far, I can find no negative sonic aspects whatsoever with this armboard - it simply does its job without drawing any obvious attention to itself, and so it's difficult to pay it a better compliment than that.

In conclusion, I'm absolutely delighted with the ebony armboard Steve has made for my SL-1210, as both sonically and aesthetically it is in the highest rank. I would wholeheartedly recommend it to all Techy users looking to extract maximum sonic potential from their turntables, and crucially, address (and cure) what I firmly believe is an area of previously unidentified weakness in the way aftermarket tonearms are typically mounted onto the existing chassis. In that respect, Steve's ebony armboard should be considered as the de facto standard for all modified Techies.

Thanks again to Steve for doing a wonderful job - you deserve to sell many more of these babies...!

Right, I'm off now to listen to some more music! :cool:

Marco.

[Magna Audio]

Yes, inevitable - too many bits and pieces. I saw it when I locked the workshop up last night! Will do.


Sounds all right then:) That's good.



I knew that I'd end up leaving something... The birch ply armboard, alignment ruler, screws and my little allen keys, are all on the table in your garage! So if you could pop them in the post for me, I'd be much obliged! :cool: + gobsmacked at what I was hearing.....

[Marco]

'Good' is an understatement, dude! :eyebrows:

Wait until the allen bolts arrive, and send the whole lot up in a Jiffy bag. A this time of the year, it's probably best to send it Registered First Class 'Signed For', otherwise it's likely to go walkabouts... Churz, dude!

You've got my addy, haven't you? :cool:

Marco.

[Tim]

So Marco, did you drive all the way from Wrexham to Guildford just to pick-up the new arm board?


A this time of the year, it's probably best to send it Registered First Class 'Signed For', otherwise it's likely to go walkabouts...
Re the above.... not known to most people, but the Royal Mail recorded/signed for service is no 'safer' than ordinary mail and is subject to the same delivery standards/methods. The only difference is that you can have proof it gets there and it's easier to take up a claim with Royal Mail should it not arrive. 'Registered' or what most people understand as the old 'Registered' service is the Royal Mail Special Delivery service .... tracked, fully insured with guaranteed delivery times and dealt with entirely differently to standard mail, which is where the recorded stuff goes. I personally wouldn't send anything of value by recorded mail, as it really is not much better than standard mail with a certificate of posting, as the compensation value is exactly the same - i.e. £46.00.

Recorded is really only helpful with low value eBay deliveries, as you can have proof that it got there, should your buyer be less than honest ;)

[Marco]

So Marco, did you drive all the way from Wrexham to Guildford just to pick-up the new arm board?


Yup, but not just to collect it. I had to wait until it was made and then fitted, hence why we went for a nice relaxing lunch in a country pub, while Steve did the necessary, and then we did some shopping locally (well, we only made it into an antique shop, where I spent 2 hours sifting through about 1500 classical records, and bought 75 them, for a steal!) :eyebrows:

Then we had a nice sesh at Steve's place, listening to music on his system. All-in-all, it was a lovely day out, so the drive was well worth it! :cool:

Marco.

[Tim]

Yup, but not just to collect it.
Hats off to you fella, that's dedication to the cause and it's really pleasing to hear that old fashioned craftsmanship still pays dividends.

A good days work indeed :cool:

[Marco]

Indeed it was. Steve's really good at what he does. His craftmanship is superb, and so more people should use the services he offers :)

As for distance, well TBH, I'll drive anywhere, if in doing so it results in my system being improved in some way, and in turn my enjoyment of music.

I drove all the way from Wrexham to Penzance, in a day and back, to collect my Lockwoods from Big Ears Audio, and when I was living in Scotland, once drove from Glasgow to Bath, in a day and back, to collect some Spendor SP1s from The Right Note.

If I want something badly enough, matey, I'll do whatever it takes to get it! :eyebrows:

Marco.

[Tim]

If I want something badly enough, matey, I'll do whatever it takes to get it! :eyebrows:
:lol: that's what I keep telling Trixey and Bubbles :bum:

[Marco]

Very nice work, Steve. Looking forward to Marco's comments.

I'm surprised that you haven't remarked on my comments, dude - lol.... Trust me, an ebony armboard for your Dynavector is something that you should seriously consider! ;)

Marco.

[MartinT]

Sorry - work prevails. Yes, I have been interested in the ebony armboard project. In my case, it would not be a recessed one, simply a flat plate style. If Steve is going to make a business of it, I might get all the DV measurements and ask him to make me one. It's a simple swap to remove my arm and mount a different plate, my deck already has captive nuts installed.

However - the Paul Hynes internal regs come next...

[Marco]

No worries, Martin. I realise how busy things must be for you just now :)

I think Steve's well up for doing more armboards, and with yours being just a flat-plate style, it should be a piece of piss! Anyway, like you say, get the PH regs done first, and then you can take things from there.

The ebony armboard is defo worth doing, though. In your system, you'll easily hear the difference! :cool:

Marco.

[MartinT]

I have now ordered an ebony armboard from Steve, customised for my Dynavector. I'll be dropping the deck off with him hopefully later this week :)

[Marco]

Hehehehe.... Nice one, Martin. If you want the best (and I know you do) you know it makes sense! ;)

Check out Steve's D.I.Y horns, while you're there :eek:

Marco.

[MartinT]

I'm excited as Steve has completed the ebony armboard and, from his photos, it looks superb. I'll be collecting my deck tonight so a further report will come soon.

Meanwhile, I think Steve will post some of his photos of the work done.

[Marco]

Excellent stuff, Martin... I think you're going to like this ;)

Marco.

P.S Steve, please post all pictures on this thread, rather than starting a new one, as I'd like all your armboard designs to be kept in the one place - ta!

[Magna Audio]

Here are some pics of Martin's ebony armboard. All taken under fluorescent light but on different settings flash / non flash to give an idea of texture blackness.
About half as dished as Marco's needed to be. I can make them to any depth.

Equally pleased with how this ones turned out.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/5be01867c8ee8c160f0de76e6e33a220.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/2fdff80826e2c206e657d53203d7389a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/bcd69b4bf9de834576d9cfe06daa79a7.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/9986faf324fc8a8659abdbff517ab4e7.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/c01812b242db6f22453cf1526a18b2aa.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/b246aa1166800516c2d3d494a46975c1.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/0bbb756a005e5175ce268a2021228b36.jpg

[MartinT]

Thanks, Steve. I can't wait to get my baby home :)

[JazzBones]

Thanks, Steve. I can't wait to get my baby home :)

Mine's being made at this point of posting. Linn geometry to fit my Ekos AO modified, silver wire (Kondo), damping and tagging from cartridge pins to SME pillar fitting for arm cable. Steve said that my arm plate and yours have come from the same lump of ebony so in a way I quess our 1210s are related :)

The Linn arms were developed with fiber arm boards in mind... may get one made for my Sondek LP12 at some stage?

Please, someone don't tell me that an armboard made from Ivory (not allowed!) would sound better still as I beginning to collect as many arm boards as t/table mats, Bren reckons I've developed a fetish :eyebrows:

Ron

[MartinT]

Steve said that my arm plate and yours have come from the same lump of ebony so in a way I quess our 1210s are related :)

I believe I held your piece of ebony in my hand. It's solid, wieldy stuff.

Good luck with yours and let us know how it sounds :)

[Magna Audio]

Actually separate lumps but might be same tree, as I can only get one board out of one piece due to the way I hold the piece for turning work.

They are very solid indeed.

[JazzBones]

Actually separate lumps but might be same tree, as I can only get one board out of one piece due to the way I hold the piece for turning work.

They are very solid indeed.

Yup, I can see where you're at Steve, can't wait to get mine :) Any idea when I should receive my ebony?
Had a day long sesh today and my present ali laminated board (4 layers) sitting proud on just three nuts sounded bloody marvellous, if the ebony thrashs that then I'll be on a high without chemicals :whistle:

Cheers
Ron

[Marco]

Hi Ron,

How's it going, matey? Hope you had a nice Christmas and New Year :)

Nice one on the ebony armboard - you won't regret it! How's the MN platter doing - have you fitted it yet? :cool:

Marco.

[Marco]

Yours is looking fab, Martin! :stalks:

Can't wait to hear what you think when you have a listen :D

Marco.

[Magna Audio]

Martin picked his up this evening and then we hit the horns for a while.

I have to do some family duties now but might finish it later this evening or def tomorrow.

BR
Steve


Yup, I can see where you're at Steve, can't wait to get mine :) Any idea when I should receive my ebony?
Had a day long sesh today and my present ali laminated board (4 layers) sitting proud on just three nuts sounded bloody marvellous, if the ebony thrashs that then I'll be on a high without chemicals :whistle:

Cheers
Ron

[JazzBones]

Hi Ron,

How's it going, matey? Hope you had a nice Christmas and New Year :)

Nice one on the ebony armboard - you won't regret it! How's the MN platter doing - have you fitted it yet? :cool:

Marco.

Hi Marco, yes had a good Xmas and a quiet New Year. Fitted the MN platter (*) next day after getting it from you. It now has two layers of Funky's Acromat (total 10mm thick) bonded to the platter with Vaselene jelly spread. The two Acromats have their total flat sides bonded together giving one area without air gaps. Sounds bloody marvellous and possibly the best of both worlds, hybrid MN/Funk platter. Believe it that the MN platter MUST have the combination of MN bearing fitted to the MN base plate (six securing bearing screws on flange) then gasket compound to the Techy deck with gasket compound and then bolted down with five flanged locking nuts (miltatary spec). My deck sits on a Townshend Seismic sink (bellows<spring) and I have dispensed with the Isonoes in favour of Origin Live rubber feet with this total combination, as it stands, IT NOW BEATS MY LP12 which is no slouch. Have taken pictures but just can't get the hang of posting 'em.... don't have a black belt, 5th dan in computerjitsu combat. Better at the mechanical side of things :doh:

Cheers
Ron :)

[DSJR]

Your Linn's gone off and needs me to put my Guru magic on it to make it annihilate that Jap DJ deck you've lavished all that love and money on :D I bet there are still dealers that would tell you this too (thinking of one 50 miles or so north of your location...).

Seriously, glad you've got your Techie sounding fantastic Ron. So much less faff once it's done :)

[MartinT]

Martin picked his up this evening and then we hit the horns for a while.

Thanks again, Steve. It was fascinating listening to your horns - such a different presentation and so fast with exquisite micro-detail.

I've set the arm up and given the deck a quick spin. What I hear the ebony armboard doing is negating a slight edginess that the steel board was imparting to the presentation. Nothing too obvious, but I would call it greater tonal expression - making the music more coherent if you like. I will have much more time tomorrow to listen and the SR5 will have fully warmed up again.

For now, quite apart from the fact that it looks superb, it seems that ebony has proven to be an excellent interface between arm and deck.

[JazzBones]

Your Linn's gone off and needs me to put my Guru magic on it to make it annihilate that Jap DJ deck you've lavished all that love and money on :D I bet there are still dealers that would tell you this too (thinking of one 50 miles or so north of your location...).

Seriously, glad you've got your Techie sounding fantastic Ron. So much less faff once it's done :)

'lo David, nice hearing from you again. My LP12 is still good with a few changes I did myself, has more warmth but my fettled Tek 1210 with all the mods really swings and kicks arse and is now my number one deck. Don't get me wrong, the LP12 is still one helluva deck when properly fettled by a non Linn fundamentalist :eyebrows: Its easier to cue on the Tek than the LP12, no bloody wobbly platter and armboard for starters.

Have a good new year Dave,

Ron

[Marco]

Thanks again, Steve. It was fascinating listening to your horns - such a different presentation and so fast with exquisite micro-detail.


Great fun, aren't they? And so beautifully made! :)


What I hear the ebony armboard doing is negating a slight edginess that the steel board was imparting to the presentation. Nothing too obvious, but I would call it greater tonal expression - making the music more coherent if you like. I will have much more time tomorrow to listen and the SR5 will have fully warmed up again.


Excellent. That's exactly the traits you should hear. The ebony armboard removes a tonally 'bleached' and 'pinched' quality to the sound, that the commonly available metal boards impart, when used on the Technics, but which only becomes fully apparent when this signature has been removed.

Once the SR5 has been fully warmed up and you've settled into the sound, you should notice music being delivered with a broader, more richly textured tonal palette, bass having more definition and texture, and high frequencies sounding sweeter, and as extended as ever, but without the slightest hint of grain. In short, the whole sonic presentation of your T/T should be much more musical.


It seems that ebony has proven to be an excellent interface between arm and deck.

That's precisely it.

Enjoy! :cool:

Marco.

[Magna Audio]

Interesting Martin. I'm glad the initial impressions are favourable.

I might have to make one for my SP-10 / slate deck at some point and play it against the Gunmetal one I currently have.

[Magna Audio]

And here's Jazzbones' all machined and drilled.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/b0db52497546a99f68257f9321f7eb04.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/1e1c0e65c9a5af79f40dcf071e02c728.jpg

[MartinT]

Gorgeous, Steve. Did you establish what arm that is for, I cannot think of one requiring six holes? It's a short arm, too.

[JazzBones]

And here's Jazzbones' all machined and drilled.

http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/50444/2667686730071997495S600x600Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2667686730071997495QIzVom)

http://inlinethumb51.webshots.com/24114/2562878810071997495S600x600Q85.jpg (http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2562878810071997495YdzBPp)

Hi Steve, its a beauty mate, received today at 12.15pm, delivered by my blonde postie, Wendy who has been trained to bang harder on my front door if it looks like being a Hi Fi item.... I'm mean thats what you tip 'em for at Christmas innit?
Will be giving it a high gloss polish over the weekend.

Thanks again
Ron

[JazzBones]

Gorgeous, Steve. Did you establish what arm that is for, I cannot think of one requiring six holes? It's a short arm, too.

Hi Martin,

The ebony arm is to accommodate my AO modded
Ekos tonearm, following Linn's geometry. In fact only three holes are used but there is allowance for offset if needed. Incidentally, this armboard would also accommodate the Jelco 750 (which I also have) and I would imagine it would take the latter's performance up to a higher level.

When I've fitted the arm board I will let you and all know the outcome, I expected it to be nothing but brilliantly wonderful :)

Off to fit and fix now.

Ron

[DSJR]

And here's me thinking of drilling out my spare MDF TD160 arm-plate for a Rega arm, as although the TD125 has left Tringsby Towers, the TD160mk2 is still here in the loft looking very sorry for itself :)

[MartinT]

Further thoughts on the ebony armboard just confirm my initial findings: there is a sense of harmonious music-making with terrific delineation of fine detail in the soundstage. It's in the 'in-between' spaces that I notice more going on, such as mid-left and mid-right of stage. Non-edgy, untiring and it just sounds right. It also looks fab!

[MartinT]

When I've fitted the arm board I will let you and all know the outcome, I expected it to be nothing but brilliantly wonderful :)

Good luck with it, Ron. I'll be interested in how the Ekos gels with the Techie.

[JazzBones]

Good luck with it, Ron. I'll be interested in how the Ekos gels with the Techie.

Martin, I've been using my Ekos all along with my Tek my Ekos is non standard issue. Johnny J7 of Audio Origami worked his magic on it and the arm has the following:

1. Kondo silver arm wiring from the actual cartridge tags through to the SME arm cable socket.

2. The arm has been internally damped, but not to a high degree.

3. I have an Audio Origami gold plated decoupled counter weight with grub screw fitting to arm tube. very light force to hold weight insitu.

3. I also use a very, very, very thin carbon fibre gasket between my cartidge, at the mo an AT09II, and head shell.

4. Arm cabling to pre-amp (an Avondale super modded Naim NAC72) is Van Damme cable.

In total the sound I'm now getting is absolutely great to my ears :smoking:

My SL1210Mk2 has the following mods that I have carried out over time:

1. Mike New bearing secured by six bolts to..
2. Mike New Bearing base plate bonded to the table pan with gasketing compound
3. The five bolts have been secured by flanged aerospace spec nuts, all dabbed with Hamerite paint.
4. The underneath of the Pan has had 2 to 3mm sound deadening and anti vibrations bitumastic mats bonded on, allowing access to nuts.
5. Mike New platter with Funk Acromats 5mm times two (10mm in total) bonded by Petroleum Jelly (Vaselene) spread.
6. The support: I've done away with Isonoes feet and instead I use Origin Live rubber feet and pads.
7 The whole caboodle is supported on a Max Townshend Seismic platform, the new bellows and spring version. All on a dedicated three legged Mark Baker Ultra TT table with Oak platform....phew...!
8. I've kept the TS HE off board PSU connected to mains by Russ Andrews Kimber reference canble.... believe me this power supply sings when everything else is spot on, but I will of course investigate the 57 Hynes variety ones :lol:

If I knew how I would show pictures but my expertise lies else where.

For those who may read this and think this guy is loopy da loop, well I am but I have more years behind me than in front of me so I have been working on my final one and only table and this is it!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for reading all this,

Ron
:yay:

PS And of course Speedy's ebony arm board will take its place on the TT... can't report on this one till its up and a done thing

[Magna Audio]

Glad it arrived safely and you like it so far...

[vinylspinner]

Hi steve,

Could you make an oblong armboard 200mm x 150mm x 15mm with 6 mounting holes and cut out to suit Jelco spec?


Nigel

[Marco]

See what I've started? :doh:

:eyebrows: :eyebrows:

Marco.

[MartinT]

One small unexpected issue as a result of ebony being non-conductive is that I noticed a small amount of hum at high volumes, more than I had previously been used to. Playing with earth routing, it wasn't the arm that was unearthed but the Technics turntable itself (now isolated from the arm's earth since losing the steel armboard). I guess that Paul's SR5 must have a floating negative return?

Taking an earth cable from the main PCB earth (lower-left post) to my Whest's earth post cured it. Other ebony armboard users may wish to check this out.

[Paul Hynes]

Hi Martin,

The SR5 and in fact all my power supplies unless otherwise requested have a floating negative return. This avoids multiple ground loops with multiple power supplies all connected to the same system, thus avoiding ground loop hum. The power supply circuitry takes it’s ground reference from the equipment it powers. The power supply chassis are all earthed to mains earth for safety. The third wire in the Power supply DC lead is connected to the power supply chassis and therefore mains earth but this may not be the optimum path for an earth connection with some equipment, so I leave this wire floating.

You have already found a cure for the ebony board insulation problem by earthing the deck to the Whest preamp earth post. This is probably the optimum earth point, as it will hold the deck chassis at close to the earth potential of the preamp chassis without traversing a polluted system ground.

Regards
Paul

[MartinT]

The SR5 and in fact all my power supplies unless otherwise requested have a floating negative return.

Thanks Paul - good to have it confirmed.

[Magna Audio]

After some PM'ing it looks like we will share a bigger lump of ebony as I am curious to try one out on my slate plinth'd SP-10 now:)


Hi steve,

Could you make an oblong armboard 200mm x 150mm x 15mm with 6 mounting holes and cut out to suit Jelco spec?


Nigel

[JazzBones]

One small unexpected issue as a result of ebony being non-conductive is that I noticed a small amount of hum at high volumes, more than I had previously been used to. Playing with earth routing, it wasn't the arm that was unearthed but the Technics turntable itself (now isolated from the arm's earth since losing the steel armboard). I guess that Paul's SR5 must have a floating negative return?

Taking an earth cable from the main PCB earth (lower-left post) to my Whest's earth post cured it. Other ebony armboard users may wish to check this out.

Martin, I have installed my ebony arm board on my 1210 and this morning I switched on and whacked up the wick to my normal listening level.... NO hum at all. My PSU is the TS HE so obviously things have been done differently?
My first impression of the ebony board insitu is very favourable and this is after my mono powers (normally left on 24/7) and the aforementioned PSU also normally left on had been fired up from stone cold. I was listening from cold, no cartridge warm up initially. Very briefly, I'm getting a much more organic natural sound from the percussive hammer of felt covered strikers on a grand piano, fingernail or thumb pluck of acoustic and jazz electric guitar, etc... these are but a few things I have noticed after a very brief listen to see if all was working...it was :)

One problem I did have was fitting the board itself as the screw holes were not absolutely true and the holes drilled not allowing any margin for fitting both in attaching arm collar (Linn) and the three plate screws to the 1210, there was also a hairline crack in the side where I presume Steve's drilling was a bit at fault but it is not noticeable except to a fusy old codger like me who checks everything before use, its so minute that I can liver with it and it has not been detrimental to performance and not worth taking up with Steve who has generally done a good job.

Cheers
Ron :)

[Magna Audio]

That's annoying Ron. I clamped the template to it for guidance so all holes lined up - I will have to check the bed on my pillar drill as it can tilt for angles perhaps that was why...
It is a bit fragile when thin due to it's hardness I have found - the drills clog and heat is a problem - I learned to up and down a lot and stop and unclog but it was still a problem.
Heat / expansion probably caused the crack - I did not see it. Will drill even slower next time.
Ideally you would use some washers under the mounting bolts as they are M4 and the holes are as the template M5.
Also I would guess your blind nuts are the same as Martin's and they are aluminium rivnuts - do not over tighten as the ali is not very strong.

[MartinT]

NO hum at all. My PSU is the TS HE so obviously things have been done differently?

Ron, I would guess that the Timestep PSU has an earthed negative return, which would provide your deck with earthing. Therefore no hum despite the arm no longer being connected to the deck.

[JazzBones]

That's annoying Ron. I clamped the template to it for guidance so all holes lined up - I will have to check the bed on my pillar drill as it can tilt for angles perhaps that was why...
It is a bit fragile when thin due to it's hardness I have found - the drills clog and heat is a problem - I learned to up and down a lot and stop and unclog but it was still a problem.
Heat / expansion probably caused the crack - I did not see it. Will drill even slower next time.
Ideally you would use some washers under the mounting bolts as they are M4 and the holes are as the template M5.
Also I would guess your blind nuts are the same as Martin's and they are aluminium rivnuts - do not over tighten as the ali is not very strong.

Steve, no worries mate, the ebony armplate is a must for the tekky, I'll be having an all day listening sesh tomorrow when the missus is at her mum's. Being a Linn owner I have learnt NEVER to overtighten the arm board, pillar grub screw or the cartridge itself. On the ebony board I used the mounting screws you provided plus small sized washers of the same diameter only screwed down lightly to secure. It may be worth considering making the screw holes slightly larger to allow tolerance without over doing it? I was able to do this myself easily and you're right the black powder goes everywhere, Bren thought it was either messing about with gun powder or it was something I was sniffing, snuff etc :eek: and I got berated for messing up the kitchen work top, it beats my work bench :)

For anyone reading this, please note, that as far as I am aware, Steve personally fitted both Marco's and Martin T's ebony boards. On the other hand I provided Steve with a template to work from and I fitted my own board so Steve was not on hand for niggling little sod's law matters that cropted up... this happens in life.

If you're competent in your skills, buy the ebony with confidence, if not get Steve to fit it for you...okay?

Finally, I wonder what other hard woods could offer the same degree of performance, Australian Jarrah (ironwood), teak, etc. the mind is overworking folks.

Cheers
Ron

[JazzBones]

Ron, I would guess that the Timestep PSU has an earthed negative return, which would provide your deck with earthing. Therefore no hum despite the arm no longer being connected to the deck.

I think thats what it is.... you'll have to get a TS HE, for the price its a good'un mate :eyebrows::eyebrows::eyebrows:

Its strange this earthing malarky business, on a Linn Sondek a Linn arm is invariably connected by earth wiring to both pre-amp, phono stage clamp and also a secondary earth tag soldered or screwed to the metal subchassis. My Ekos only has the earth wire to pre-amp and no secondary earthing to the metal body of my my Tekky and as you have said the ebony is non-conductive.

The battle for perfection continues.

As a matter of interest, those with SME arms would have to have a helluva slot cut out of the ebnony board to accommodate the arm, maybe weakening the armboard, any thoughts on this one, anybody :scratch:

Ron

[Magna Audio]

I guess you could have greater thickness like Marco requested even though his was quite deeply dished its still pretty thick and so would be stronger - depends on arm base depth SME mounting require.



As a matter of interest, those with SME arms would have to have a helluva slot cut out of the ebnony board to accommodate the arm, maybe weakening the armboard, any thoughts on this one, anybody :scratch:

Ron

[Marco]

Ron, I would guess that the Timestep PSU has an earthed negative return, which would provide your deck with earthing. Therefore no hum despite the arm no longer being connected to the deck.

Me got niento hum-anto, daddy-o, and I'm using an SR7.... :scratch:

Marco.

[MartinT]

At full listening volume, Marco?

[Marco]

At that level there is just hiss and a VERY FAINT low-level 'noise' (it doesn't really qualify as hum), depending on where my SUT is positioned :)

On another issue, I'm glad that everyone who's had an ebony armboard made has found it a significant sonic improvement. That's what happens when you apply some lateral thinking, and of course have a skilled person on hand, like Steve, who can turn that thinking into a tangible upgrade!

Marco.

[MartinT]

Today I've had the chance to properly listen some more and the results are really remarkable so I thought I'd try to describe more deeply what I'm hearing.

Firstly, what I'm hearing is a combination of: Steve's ebony armboard; Paul Hynes' two-stage regulation with split motor control and motor drive feeds; fix to the earth path that improves on the original arrangement.


Ebony armboard: described above
Two-stage dual PSU regs: described here http://theartofsound.net/forum/showpost.php?p=279735&postcount=89
Earthing: rather than the original earthing arrangement where the deck was earthed via the arm's earth cable, the steel arm plate and into the deck at a different point from the PCB earth; the deck and arm are now split in two (insulated by the wood) and each is independently earthed back to the same earthing post on the phono preamp (the deck from that all-important lower-left PCB post), so true star earthing both inside and outside the turntable

What I hear is incredible midrange clarity and insight. This is partly due to the very low noise floor (there is absolutely no hum and very little noise at listening volumes, so the background is almost entirely dictated by the vinyl and original recording - and I listen fairly loud). The space around vocals and percussive instruments such as cymbals is now better defined, allowing the brain to easily place the performance in its space. Dynamic swell in a good recording can be mind-blowing. Bass is even more textured and potent.

One example: Van Morrison's Common One is a superb recording, already treasured by me for its wonderful performance, sense of space and very potent bass. Playing Wild Honey, I could really hear the rasp of the brass in the way that I heard it from Steve's horns; an almost dirty noise lacking the smoothing-over that most systems treat horns to. Van Morrison also plays with the dynamic range, lowering his voice to whisper quiet and then shouting out at some points, causing me to reel back. In Haunts of Ancient Peace, the sense of space is far more than I had previously heard and the foundation-shaking bass underpins the whole while leaving his voice ever-present, floating above it, and not at all overwhelmed.

I could go on but hopefully you get the picture. This is the best vinyl replay I've achieved by quite a margin. I now feel ready to attempt the triple-stage regulation that Paul Hynes has supplied me with, having a proper baseline (!) with which to compare results. Not just now, though; I need to get back to the music :)

[MartinT]

Comments? Did it make sense, especially what I hear from brass instruments?

[Marco]

Yes, it's because the metallic coloration of the aluminium armboard has been removed, and so now instrumental detail is rendered with more realism! It's exactly what I'm hearing myself, mate :)

One of these days I'll come up with a bad idea, eh...? ;)

Marco.

[Reid Malenfant]

One of these days I'll come up with a bad idea, eh...? ;)

Marco.
Indeed, it's just a question of time :ner:

:eyebrows:

[MartinT]

One of these days I'll come up with a bad idea, eh...? ;)

:rfl:

[Wakefield Turntables]

One of these days I'll come up with a bad idea, eh...? ;)

Marco.

:king:

[trev76]

Hi

Long time lurker, first time poster (I think?) - I've learned a lot here and often direct anyone enthusiastic about audio over here. I'm pretty happy with my stock SL1210MK5, having had it for ~3 years and only starting to experiment when I was practically given an Audio Technica AT33 PTG. It wasn't long after checking this cart out that, the high output Denon DL110MC (which is a fine cartridge IMHO) went back into its box. Long story short - I really, really like the AT33 PTG.

However, there was something 'lacking' in the cart, that perhaps the Denon had - Honestly I'm still a "trial / error" guy with a pretty limited 'audiophile' vocabulary, so I apologise for not being able to accurately describe this. Eventually, a friend of mine and fellow vinyl enthusiast tells me that he had a very similar problem with his cart, an Audio-Technica too but I can't recall exact which model now. So after telling me all this technical stuff that I still don't quite fully understand, he tells me about how virtually all his problems with the cart were solved, by using an Audio-Technica MG-10 headshell.

I borrow it, and to my surprise, things actually do sound better and 'tighter'. Anyway... couple of months pass, and I find myself in the position where I could buy a new Audio-Technica AT-LH13 headshell at a very nice price. I would've been insane not to go for it. So as of now, its on my way to me, but I'm guessing it'll take a couple of days - even a week maybe maybe - till it gets here.

Seeing as how the AT-LH13 is heavier (13gm) than the MG-10 (8gm, also I have to give it back to my friend soon), the question of having a counterweight made is a no brainer now.

Anyway... I don't know if this info is all thats needed, but here goes:

- Stock SL1210mk5 arm
- Audio-Technica AT33 PTG MC cartridge - 6.8 grams
- Audio-Technica AT-LH13 headshell - 13 grams

So thats about 19.8 grams total.

Am I doing this right? Is there, for example, other factors I've not taken into account in regards to having a counterweight made? I know that there are other mods that would be real beneficial (bearing, plater, arm, PSU, etc etc), but for now I really just want to focus on the stock arm, and the custom counterweight.

In terms of materials and whatnot - as long as it works well, it's fine by me, so any help would be greatly appreciated. Anyway I'm not sure if I'm not doing something right cos I can't seem to PM Steve or get in contact with him, unless I missed something? Is Steve even making these anymore? Just in case, I thought maybe I'll just post everything here; I hope this is OK with everyone.

As for other mods - The only one involves replacing the standard feet on my deck with Isonoe's and (probably) sorbothane boots - This will be done in roughly 2 weeks. Other mods - I'm sure - will come later (you know what I mean :) but thats for another time and thread.

Again, anything that could help, or make things go faster, will be really helpful. I'm totally committed to this and you guys know your stuff better than I do, so I think I'm in pretty good hands.

Cheers!
Trevor

PS: Thought I'd add a few pics - these were taken when I had the MG10 headshell:

Update: I've been told the headshell is actually an AT-LT13a, not an MG10.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7020/6797043377_06989fa140_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/82292339@N00/6797043377/)
Counterweight (Too Far Back!) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/82292339@N00/6797043377/) by Trevor (http://www.flickr.com/people/82292339@N00/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7013/6797053325_e8721b3ff1_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/82292339@N00/6797053325/)
Audio Technica AT33PTG MC Cartridge (http://www.flickr.com/photos/82292339@N00/6797053325/) by Trevor (http://www.flickr.com/people/82292339@N00/), on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7153/6797053543_1832dd052d_z.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/82292339@N00/6797053543/)
Deck_1-2-12 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/82292339@N00/6797053543/) by Trevor (http://www.flickr.com/people/82292339@N00/), on Flickr

[Marco]

Hi Trevor,

Glad to hear of what you've been up to and that you enjoy the forum :)

However, before going any further, could you please pop into the Welcome area and introduce yourself, by telling us what system you have and what music you like?

Oh, and where you live - cheers! :cool:

Marco.

[trev76]

Hi Marco,

Will do - Headed there now!

Trevor

[Magna Audio]

Here's one I made today

Going to a good home in Canada for a SL-1210.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/bb4f0a5f6b689985b8f559351adbdba4.jpg

[Magna Audio]

Here's an Ebony tonearm spacer for a Jelco SA-750E.
Oiled and waxed.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/872f4ce9002c8b5d8cff9a0a39d9533c.jpg

[Magna Audio]

As it's between a tonearm board and a counterweight - quite literally:-), I'll put a pick of this ebony tonearm mounting spacer here too.

[PaulStewart]

Hi Steve,

I'm currently using a Rega RB 1000 with a Koetsu Rosewood Signature, The weight is racked too far to the back and also, I feel an asymetrical weight would be better. Do you think you could make one in copper/tungsten alloy?

Cheers

Paul S

[Magna Audio]

Ongoing:)


Hi Steve,

I'm currently using a Rega RB 1000 with a Koetsu Rosewood Signature, The weight is racked too far to the back and also, I feel an asymetrical weight would be better. Do you think you could make one in copper/tungsten alloy?

Cheers

Paul S

[MartinT]

Tungsten must be a bitch to work with :eek:

[Magna Audio]

It would be. I insist on it being a Tungsten-copper alloy.


Tungsten must be a bitch to work with :eek:

[tjottolf]

Hi!

I'm another one of those who own a Technics 1200 and has the 18g AT-LH18 headshell with a Denon 103r. I have the Kab fluid arm damper like one of the other guys who asked (dpnt know if that affects this?). Could you make a counterweight for me? They look great and would be the perfect solution for me! I wasnt able to send you a pm here, since I just registered (found this through google).

Pål-Hallstein from Oslo, Norway

[Marco]

Hi Paal,

Welcome to AoS :)

Before you go any further, could you please pop into the Welcome area and introduce yourself to our community, as you were asked to do in the registration email you received - ta! :cool:

Marco.

[tjottolf]

Hi Paal,

Welcome to AoS :)

Before you go any further, could you please pop into the Welcome area and introduce yourself to our community, as you were asked to do in the registration email you received - ta! :cool:

Marco.

done:)

[Marco]

Thanks, Paal - much appreciate it :)

Marco.

[vandergraafuk]

PM sent to speedy steve :)

[Magna Audio]

PM sent to speedy steve :)

Here you go:)

120g CW for Techi


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/ae0e70f7530619e7dfaeeaeb834f4b85.jpg

[vandergraafuk]

Received CW, top notch. Thank you :)

[Marco]

Hi guys,

Due to current personal circumstances Steve is no longer able to provide his bespoke armboard service. Should this situation change, then the thread will be re-opened and updated accordingly.

Marco.

[Marco]

Guys,

I'm very pleased to announce that Steve has informed me that he is 'back on the scene', as it were, and happy to take your orders now for any custom-made counterweight balances and/or armboards.

Welcome back, Steve - you've been missed! :clap:

Marco.

[MartinT]

Nice one, Steve. Your armboard is still doing the biz in my Technics :)

[RobbieGong]

Nice one, Steve. Your armboard is still doing the biz in my Technics :)

Ditto - The ebony is one sweet armboard :) btw Martin, Do you ever treat yours to some wood wax ? I believe we are supposed to every now and then. I never have and should i guess.

[MartinT]

Robbie, that would entail removing the arm and I never do that unless I have to. I prefer to leave what's working nicely well alone :)

[The Grand Wazoo]

Now this is good news - maybe the Ultracraft can be made Koetsu-ready with a new counterweight sometime soon!

[MartinT]

maybe the Ultracraft can be made Koetsu-ready with a new counterweight sometime soon!

Is it almost up and running, Chris? Need piccies!

[The Grand Wazoo]

Still a little way off Martin!

[RobbieGong]

Robbie, that would entail removing the arm and I never do that unless I have to. I prefer to leave what's working nicely well alone :)

Ditto Martin. Once I have that sweet spot found re: arm / cartridge set up I just dont mess unless absolutely no choice and unavoidable ! :)

[Magna Audio]

Hi all,
Many thanks for the kind words and great to hear the ebony boards are doing the trick. Thanks to Marco for re-instating the thread.
If you need a counterweight, armbase or tonearm board for SL-1200/10 let me know.
Re the polishing: You could always carefully polish the bits that are exposed;) A tiny over polish in the arm base would not hurt would polish off I would have thought.

Regards,
Steve

P.S. Must update the avatar pic with more recent exponential mid bass horns.

[Magna Audio]

Rob's. Note the extra post arm rest - This was a complete deck conversion - remove original arm and adapt to fit the new custom armboard.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/6e8dfedd4c35bf598e8a6eec0d4dcec4.jpg

[DonGraft]

Hello Steve!
I just bought a SL1210Mk2 with stock tonearm, a DL103 and a AT-LH18/OCC.
What counterweight do you recommend? Any spacer for the headshell?

Thanks in advance!

[Magna Audio]

Hello Steve!
I just bought a SL1210Mk2 with stock tonearm, a DL103 and a AT-LH18/OCC.
What counterweight do you recommend? Any spacer for the headshell?

Thanks in advance!

Hi,
That sounds like a headshell that could suit well. I don't know the exact weight of the AT-LH18. One info source is quoting shipping and item weight as the same - 18g which sounds quite a lot. The Sumiko is a bit lighter. The 103 is 8.5 grams. So combined ~ 26.5g. I guess that is too much for the standard weight?
A SPU is 30g.

If it won't balance with the standard weight (and form a physics / sound point of view, it's best with the counterweight as close to the pivot as possible) then a heavier weight is needed.

Best thing is to add some 2 pence pieces or Pound coins if you need lots of weight, and stick them on with Blutak to get it to what you need. Then weigh the lot - can be done on digital kitchen scales like the ones in my photos or even more accurately at the post office on their letter scales:)

I could then make you a brass one or for a fair bit more a Tungsten one to suit. The Tungsten is much more dense so can be fair bit smaller but costs a lot for the raw material.

I wouldn't think that you'd need more weight with a spacer in the headshell and the VTA adjuster on the arm should take care of most cart / headshell combos.

Regards,
Steve

[DonGraft]

Great.
I'll make some tests (as soon as the items arrive) and I'll let you know more details

Thanks!

[Magna Audio]

Great.
I'll make some tests (as soon as the items arrive) and I'll let you know more details

Thanks!

Good stuff.

[Magna Audio]

Here's an interesting little project and something a bit different.
Compression driver to horn throat adapters.
These are tapered at the correct angle to reduce from 1.5" to 1" for a 1" BMS compression driver.

In progress

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/036ea4c88f14cec5f73d5c6707513baf.jpg

They are basically a steel plate, welded to a short section of 2" steel pipe and then another steel plate welded on. The plates make the mounting flanges for the horns and compression driver.
The plates are turned to be circular and white resin fills the 2" pipe. This then turned out on the lathe to provide the throat adapter, a smooth progression from 1" to 1.5".

Here is the finished article painted up and bolted up to horn and driver.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/f81ff2e42e8335eb44ac747c1fca3e7f.jpg



These horns now form the upper mid channels in a 5 way system for domestic use but one that will also see high quality PA use.

Here is a pic of them strapped in place

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/790742d55ffedaa6efe9098d3c6b69fd.jpg



One side of the full outfit

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/speedysteve7/hifi/Jack%20rack/WP_20130807_006.jpg[/URL]

[Magna Audio]

Back on to turntables. Here is a plinth and arm spacer project.

Birch ply cutout to fit Garrard 401 deck

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/4c739b1599db9cd5fc92a1d29994792a.jpg

Deck trial fit

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/bca6d1b95851ab6ee4cba01e7e19f72d.jpg

Countersunk mounting to suit AN arm

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/4ad7e92f5f6d10d923ebda1776cafb85.jpg

Birch ply spacer to give correct VTA and nice range of adjustment


Test mounted

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/27948b31466a55bcb0927b8f44a4631b.jpg

The mounting board and spacer are sanding / rubbed down to smooth / sealed and will now be painted in a textured finish matt black as requested. Further photos to follow.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/8856a8239cefebab6c5d47d5d0c5483b.jpg



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/a7d573e59d0e18b53dd781fcfae3c0c6.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/801462f443729ab73b3b91739e3358b6.jpg

[Tarzan]

That work looks stunning Steve!:eek::youtheman:

[Magna Audio]

Here it is all done. Finish is as requested by the decks owner.
It's Dulux matt black vinyl, rollered on for a textured finish. That way it does not just look black but a bit charcoal - works really well with the deck and plinth.




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/cb02429bb575f4b9a58cc150b781b673.jpg

[Magna Audio]

Here's an ebony disc sub weight for Jazzbones. 40m x 8mm, 15mm hole.

Left un-oiled / unpolished as requrested.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/f2603429ac8bfa7930bd93b1ef134e5a.jpg

[JazzBones]

Here's an ebony disc sub weight for Jazzbones. 40m x 8mm, 15mm hole.

Left un-oiled / unpolished as requrested.

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/speedysteve7/hifi/Armboard/WP_20130902_008.jpg (http://s727.photobucket.com/user/speedysteve7/media/hifi/Armboard/WP_20130902_008.jpg.html)

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/speedysteve7/hifi/Armboard/WP_20130902_001.jpg (http://s727.photobucket.com/user/speedysteve7/media/hifi/Armboard/WP_20130902_001.jpg.html)

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/speedysteve7/hifi/Armboard/WP_20130902_002.jpg (http://s727.photobucket.com/user/speedysteve7/media/hifi/Armboard/WP_20130902_002.jpg.html)

http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww272/speedysteve7/hifi/Armboard/WP_20130902_007.jpg (http://s727.photobucket.com/user/speedysteve7/media/hifi/Armboard/WP_20130902_007.jpg.html)

Hi Steve, looks good mate. Have to go down to the main Post Office depot as I was not in when delivered, damn!
For those of a curious mind this ebony disc is to add a little mass to a special bronze counter weight from Linn given to me some time back, to use on my Ekos. The Linn CW weighs 166gm on its own and the ebony disc will be bonded to this enabling me to have the finished weight closer to the arm pillar pivotal point. I'm using a Koetsu Black and spinning it around is a highly modded Tech 1210. The ebony disc will match Steve's ebony arm board and the cosmetic changes I have made to the deck. Pics as soon as all the jobs are completed.

Thanks SteveO for your workmanship.

JB

[Magna Audio]

Here's a 180g counterweight for MikeMusic destined for a Jelco / SPU combo.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/7b7b3b89e9381b3c5abb330943b81c30.jpg

[Magna Audio]

Here's a turntable pulley replacement project.

This is for an Cranfield Rock turntable owned by Nonsmokingman.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/85a136eca0465bdc444115ba059fb67e.jpg

Here's a pic of another deck showing the motor and pulley arrangement.



The original speed adjustment was in the form of angling the motor so the belt would ride on a smaller / larger diameter part of the drive pulley, changing the gearing suitably. However this never really seems to have worked since the current owner has had the deck (could be something to do with the air slowly going out of the deck suspension bellows - but as these have been jacked up that is a bit dubious).

The platter runs quite a bit too fast. So the easiest way to correct this is to have a pulley that is the right size to start with - like most belt drive turntables.

The drive pulley also has deep flanges so a wide belt rubs on them causing speed instabilities. A new pulley with a slight curve (barrel) to keep the belt in the right place is called for.

First task is to remove the existing pulley that was on very tight - interference fit. Aluminium on the steel shaft of the motor.
These motors are like hens teeth and not at all an easy rebuild so no undue force much be applied to the motor or the deck in doing this.

I made a puller out of some bar steel and bolts and an old threaded knob / collar I had in the parts chest. I drilled a 4mm hole down the centre of the thread so 3 different lengths of rod could be inserted as the pulley was 'pulled' off the motor shaft.

Here is a pic of the puller in place.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/a2d5f8780f1bd21251abdd0c232a5eae.jpg

The central large thread pushes on the motor shaft whilst the bar clamped around the pulley base and the collar brings the pulling force to bear.

Here's the pulley off the motor.


Next up is the make a perfect fitting pulley of the right diameter for 33 & 1/3 rpm, but a pair of or three opposing grub screws to hold the pulley in place against rotational forces.

To be continued.






https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/1bd0dec8ddedfc5763c0a2c3254f4599.jpg

[Magna Audio]

An update on the Elite Cranfield phonogram "The Rock" as the label on the back states...

Pulley made.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/eba8589bf1d85f0131d0e83cdc500dc6.jpg


Using a strobe and checking the speed after 30mins warm up and with the stylus in groove I had a few goes at shaving fractions off to get it spot on.

Another view

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/09058fd4b97351ce315664b56fa8f0ed.jpg


The slight barrelling of the pulley drive surface has worked well. The belt stays spot on in the pulley centre once the motor angle is adjusted.

The TT takes quite a while to speed stablise. The owner assures me this is normal. Once it has stabilised it is a very sweet sounding deck with Ortofon Cadenza blue cart. BTW, this is a 33 1/3 rpm only deck.
The owner has two of these decks the 2nd one will be done shortly;)

[Magna Audio]

I am now working on a 2nd Cranfield Rock. This one suffered a sub-chassis to plinth spring trauma. 40+yrs use and some of that time it being stored with a heavy weight (other equipment?) took its toll.
The springs lost some spring and receded. As they are set in many kgs of resin replacement is not easy.

The solution is to give them a boost. I made 3 raisers that fit between the sub-chassis and the plinth. This raises the coil spring tubes clear and all is nicely sprung again. Should give many more years suspension...



Here is one located on the coil spring


Here's a pic of the entire underside



The black paint is drying now so the risers don't show.

This one also needs a new pulley and a 45rpm one too. So that is next up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/945e4189e63f35b5ca9027b81ae58583.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/5e21d467971623da1b4e5563d3f1e8c4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/90c72769aeea91d1363f092b6f6d8c91.jpg

[Magna Audio]

Just to let all you SL-1210 and 1200 fans know that I have obtained a test mounting deck to make armboard making easier / not requiring your deck in front of me to make armboards.

Decks that have not been converted to after market armboards do of course need modding. Rivnuts is the usual or I can make up steel blind nut inserts as I did for Marco's deck. These can be fitted easily (they just slot in) once the original arm is removed. They also have much tougher threads being of steel.

I do still of course need to know the arm base height relative to the platter, the spindle to pivot distance for the arm as well as the mounting hole or slot dimensions - best source for these is the arm manufacturers template. Of course having the arm to test mount is even better.

A wide range of Hardwoods can be used. Ebony and African blackwood best matching the SL-1210 of course.
For SL-1200's a silver lacquer spray finish can be applied.

Drop me a line to discuss as every installation is unique.

[Magna Audio]

Been busy on a new projects.

A Marble plinth. Cutting quite easy, drilling slow but possible. Top up the water to cool every 10secs of drilling.





BTW the other wobbly hole was cut by the customer not me!:)
There are two of these and they will go into something quite different... More on that later.

A little spacer to allow a fitting from a smaller dia arm to an existing armboard.


Armbase fitted


Ebony block for VPI deck board.

NEWS FLASH
I've bought myself an SL-1210 deck (again as I had one a few years back),to use as a template / mounting deck, so now I can make armboards etc / conversion kits with just the pivot to spindle distance known. No need for customer deck to be here.

So the armboard service can go mail order as well;)


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/ae7ed6621f507b6c4848084d664f5e7c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/d3c74b1f5f62669302f233f521c2ead2.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/83684aaf192534e77af17286e98bd232.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/6b8053cfbf3f69ffdfcd32791adcfb3a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/7178e7eb9063d653cd3d73858099a11e.jpg

[belloire]

hi Steve. without reading all 22 pages of this thread, what would i need to give you in order to have a bespoke arm board made? (if it's possible at all :))

is it just measurements or the armboard as it stands now + new measurements etc? it's not exactly a common turntable/arm combo - Pioneer PLC-590 + Audio Technica AT-1005 mkII

[Magna Audio]

Hi,
I'd need measurements - easy if its just a block or round but some have intricate cutouts and indents.
Best of all would be to send me the original so I can clone it. The new pivot to spindle would need to be established from measuring on your deck and marking out, on for example masking tape, where the new arm hole is to be.

Regards,
Steve


hi Steve. without reading all 22 pages of this thread, what would i need to give you in order to have a bespoke arm board made? (if it's possible at all :))

is it just measurements or the armboard as it stands now + new measurements etc? it's not exactly a common turntable/arm combo - Pioneer PLC-590 + Audio Technica AT-1005 mkII

[belloire]

thank Steve

i'll do some measuring and take it to pieces. i'll pm you for more details soon. looking in the manual (from vinylengine.com) it appears it's a 2 piece affair with a board and a metal plate. both look pretty much square though :)

cheers

darren

[Magna Audio]

Sounds doable.
If its a plate then it needs to be of a reasonable thickness to be possible in wood. See below for pics of VPI board.


thank Steve

i'll do some measuring and take it to pieces. i'll pm you for more details soon. looking in the manual (from vinylengine.com) it appears it's a 2 piece affair with a board and a metal plate. both look pretty much square though :)

cheers

darren

[Magna Audio]

Here is a custom board for a VPI deck.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/563bb50227bd1deaf36b4d76ed86d162.jpg

In daylight it has this sort of sheen/finish.

(this was just a test piece)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/cfee8e5046cb042c23701e2c8411bd43.jpg

I've also got my work horse deck - armhole cleared ready for measuring / fitting of projects, so easy to make armboards and fitting kits.




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/a4eb145d236ee1a0abe85bf77f3de79c.jpg

[loo]

Hi Steve , could you make me an armboard for a Luxman pd300,if yes what materials would be available,
thanks Paul

[Magna Audio]

Looking at pics of the deck it appears to be about a 6" round board.
If you can supply measurements, dia, thickness, any other machinings and a template of where the armhole / other drillings are to be I can make it.
Materials could be at the cheaper end of the scale birch ply finished for example in black or Ebony at the higher price end of things. Deck is silver black or silver would look good, ebony is naturally very dark of course.
Please PM me for further details.


Hi Steve , could you make me an armboard for a Luxman pd300,if yes what materials would be available,
thanks Paul

[loo]

Hi Steve ,thanks for the speedy reply, PM sent.
Paul

[Magna Audio]

Basic armboard turned / shaped ready for marking out for SME 309 arm

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/351831c8d70a688871ba52b4d2f9b961.jpg


Work in progress / unfinished armboard. Dished and SME cutout completed, ready for locating hole drilling.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/f0f194ff343a1fd74078b8f5d1cd98f3.jpg

Don't worry the ebony is near black one smoothed and finish is applied;)

To Be Continued...

[Magna Audio]

More progress on the armboard for a SME 309.

All drilled and mounted (the bolts where the SME mount go are only to test hole clearance - M4).



My custom brass blind nuts/threaded plates in place - no permanent mods needed - like rivet nuts.


Next up is finishing - sanding, fine sanding and lacquer / polish.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171031/e0f6930ec39b7c7ce3549d629588d167.jpg

[Spectral Morn]

The quality of your craftsman ship is breathtaking :cool:


Regards Neil

[MartinT]

Indeed, I have a lovely ebony arm plate from Steve to attest to that.

[Marco]

Indeed, as have I. As nice as the armboards appear above, the pictures don't really do them justice, compared with how they look 'in the flesh'. Aside from anything else, I just love how tactile they feel! :)

I'm so glad that I asked Steve to design these armboards, a few years ago, (based solely on a gut instinct that they would be effective on the Technics). In my opinion now, the solid ebony versions are a 'must have' for all SL-1200/1210 aficionados, keen to release the full potential of their T/Ts.

Unquestionably, they offer a fundamental upgrade over the more commonly used aluminium ones, which can impart a somewhat clinical, 'a-musical' sound, accentuated already by the stock platter, mat and feet - all of which when suitably upgraded, for some of the now well-established aftermarket options, transform the Technics into a much more musically adroit beast, and provide a solid platform from which to apply the more sonically profound improvements offered by upgrading the bearing and PSU, thus taking the Technics truly into the high-end league.

Therefore, I would advise any potential buyers not to view these armboards as a mere 'accessory', but something much more fundamentally effective than that.

Marco.

[MikeMusic]

In my opinion now, the solid ebony versions are a 'must have' for all SL-1200/1210 aficionados, keen to release the full potential of their T/Ts.

Unquestionably, they offer a fundamental upgrade over the more commonly used aluminium ones, which can impart a somewhat clinical, 'a-musical' sound, accentuated already by the stock platter, mat and feet - all of which when suitably upgraded, for some of the now well-established aftermarket options, transform the Technics into a much more musically adroit beast, and provide a solid platform from which to apply the more sonically profound improvements offered by upgrading the bearing and PSU, thus taking the Technics truly into the high-end league.

Therefore, I would advise any potential buyers not to view these armboards as a mere 'accessory', but something much more fundamentally effective than that.
Marco.

I thought about one but decided to wait until after I (might) get another arm.
Am I right to assume the arms dictate the exact measurements/shape of the armboard ?

[MartinT]

Am I right to assume the arms dictate the exact measurements/shape of the armboard ?

Yes - the armboards are cut for a specific arm. What arm are you thinking of going for, Mike?

[MikeMusic]

Yes - the armboards are cut for a specific arm. What arm are you thinking of going for, Mike?
Thought so. Thanks.

As I have the SPU I was thinking of the RS212D like what Marco has.
If a Dynavector like yours came up for a fiver I could be tempted
:)
Not remotely urgent. The system sounds superb right now

[Marco]

Thought so. Thanks.

As I have the SPU I was thinking of the RS212D like what Marco has.


I think you might struggle to get one now, Mike, as Ortofon have discontinued them, especially given the rarity of these tonearms in the UK. However, some may be available as surplus stock in outlets elsewhere in Europe, or in Japan, where they were much more popular, although that option will diminish as the years go by...

If you can't get one, then a safe bet (whilst it remains in production) is the TA-110: http://www.ortofon.com/products/tonearms/ta-110 which is a 'souped up' version (considerably so) of your Jelco :)

Marco.

[MikeMusic]

I think you might struggle to get one now, Mike, as Ortofon have discontinued them, especially given the rarity of these tonearms in the UK. However, some may be available as surplus stock in outlets elsewhere in Europe, or in Japan, where they were much more popular, although that option will diminish as the years go by...

If you can't get one, then a safe bet (whilst it remains in production) is the TA-110:
which is a 'souped up' version (considerably so) of your Jelco :)

Marco.
Thanks Marco
There is a 212D in Japan for £1400, risky buy ?
A TA110 for £1200
TA-210 for £1300 - similar or better

Any of them worth a punt without a listen ?

[Marco]

All of them, providing that they are brand new! ;)

Marco (who'd never risk buying an expensive second-hand tonearm).

[MikeMusic]

All of them, providing that they are brand new! ;)

Marco (who'd never risk buying an expensive second-hand tonearm).
All brand new.
Japan probably pus customs
How do you rate the 3 ?

[Marco]

Showz da links to all three and I'll offer you my opin-ione :)

Marco.

[MartinT]

Any of them worth a punt without a listen ?

Check out 2juki's shop (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/2juki?_trksid=p2047675.l2563) on eBay.

[loo]

Thanks Marco
There is a 212D in Japan for £1400, risky buy ?
A TA110 for £1200
TA-210 for £1300 - similar or better

Any of them worth a punt without a listen ?

Hi the TA 210 is a 12" arm
Paul

[loo]

Hi Steve, a couple of quick snaps of a Luxman armboard although this one is for a SME

http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s612/loonieboo1/5C761626-DD97-41DC-A917-9389221082BB-2479-000002A4CA1A4F8F_zps2ac2f5c5.jpg (http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/loonieboo1/media/5C761626-DD97-41DC-A917-9389221082BB-2479-000002A4CA1A4F8F_zps2ac2f5c5.jpg.html)

http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s612/loonieboo1/AA11501F-76C8-4A2B-9B13-9A9E5A9183A0-2479-000002A4AEF5C66E_zps73b14e41.jpg (http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/loonieboo1/media/AA11501F-76C8-4A2B-9B13-9A9E5A9183A0-2479-000002A4AEF5C66E_zps73b14e41.jpg.html)

Paul.

[Marco]

Hi the TA 210 is a 12" arm


Good point, Paul! :eyebrows:

The 110 is the 9-incher....

Marco.

[Marco]

Check out 2juki's shop (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/2juki?_trksid=p2047675.l2563) on eBay.

Oh, the amount of money I could spend on that site!! :eek:

This would be great, Mike, if you obtained the heavy counterweight balance (necessary for the SPU), available from Ortofon (in the UK, via Henley):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ortofon-AS-212i-Tonearm-Made-Japan-/280427409612?pt=US_Record_Player_Turntable_Parts&hash=item414ac6b0cc

Marco.

[loo]

yes Ortofon model numbers are a bit strange ,
the TA is a nice arm though much improved on its jelco cousin
Paul
PS Mike I wouldn't buy one from japan though I would buy it from Ortofon;)
they sell them direct on their web shop for 1450 euros so as cheep in the end

[loo]

Oh, the amount of money I could spend on that site!! :eek:

Marco.

Me too he has some great gear I would love to see his own system:stalks:
Has anyone else noticed another ebay seller with the name 2juki-cartridge has about 470 feedback is this the same guy trying to separate his cartridge sales or somebody else riding on his coat tails?
Paul

[MikeMusic]

Showz da links to all three and I'll offer you my opin-ione :)

Marco.

http://www.henleydesigns.co.uk/TA-110-p882

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ortofon-TA-210-Tonearm-/200980742974?pt=UK_AudioTVElectronics_HomeAudioHiF i_Turntables&hash=item2ecb62c33e

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200883097820?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[MikeMusic]

Check out 2juki's shop (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/2juki?_trksid=p2047675.l2563) on eBay.
Thanks. He has
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ortofon-RMG-309i-Turntable-Tonearm-Made-Japan-/370601436671?pt=US_Record_Player_Turntable_Parts&hash=item56499125ff
and
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ortofon-AS-212i-Tonearm-Made-Japan-/280427409612?pt=US_Record_Player_Turntable_Parts&hash=item414ac6b0cc
which seem further down the range

[MartinT]

I don't know, but I've bought from 2juki and his service is excellent. He is in Hong Kong.

[MikeMusic]

Hi the TA 210 is a 12" arm
Paul

Thanks Paul. Might be difficult to get an armboard to work with that, perhaps hanging off the edge ?
:)