Christmas is coming and the DCB1's getting fat......

[smangus]

Hi folks

Ok well once I pay the postman the princely sum of £16.05 in customs charges I'll have a DCB1 Hypnotise board and all the bits to Stuff it with from the nice Mr Teabag over at the DIY forum. :)

So I thought I'd start a build thread to cover this adventure/potentially Scott like disaster (gently prodded by Steve! Who has also very kindly offered to help:D), also I won't have the time to start this until Christmas when I have some time off so I thought I'd start it off in good time so that I can ask lotsa stoopido questions and get informative answers before I start :lol: lining my ducks up so to speak.

I intend to build a stock board 1st so that I can practice soldering and see how it goes before buying any boutique/more expensive parts at the outset. That way I can get my head around it all and if I completely bodge it up it won't be too costly lol (I don't seriously think this will happen btw).

Also I'd like to see how it sounds in stock form 1st so that I can evaluate any changes later on - better resisters , caps etc along with the effects of hot rodding etc.

I have asked for one of these to take a slightly different path for the selection of the source and because I thought I needed to solder as much as possible! Also it didn't cost too much at $16 so should be something interesting giving 6 inputs via relays. If I don't like how it works it can always be bypassed or taken out I guess.

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/291429-gb-salas-select-mesmerize-type-input-selector-volume-control.html#post4716031


So some dumb questions to start so I can get my shizzle together....

1 What the fyk am I doing? :lol::scratch:

2 I know about the resisters that can be changed to improve sound but will getting better spec power caps (for example) have any noticeable effect in the longer term? Or would certain parts of the circuit benefit from this more than others?

3 Hook up wire , does this have to be rated at all for the build for power etc? I assume the mains in will have to be mains rated until it reaches the transformer but after this do I need to consider it? Any recommendations? Being Christmas I shall have some spare tinsel lying abound…..

3 Fuses - how to rate the one needed? Is it in circuit in he live mains side? guess I'll get an integrated IEC and fuse holder for the ease of installation etc.

4 As I understand resisters are non directional to place on the board (unlike caps) correct?

5 Transformers, recommended at 2*15 volts 50Va, I intend to go to the 600 level hot rod in time so is ok for that or do I need something higher rated? Also are better transformers worth buying, for example Toroidy do a premium range will these make difference over to normal ones?

6 I listen to headphones a bit late at night , can I run a another different set of outputs from it parallel to the ones connected to the power amps easily to connect my headphone amp?

7 Remote volume control, do or not do? Is this too much hassle to consider ?

8 Solder- looking at some but what sort of width/size is good for circuit board work to stop it getting too blobby? Thinner is better?

Think that's all for now! Any advice or comments gratefully received.

Cheers Andy (ElectroNumpty:mental:)

[Marco]

:worthless:

Get yer camera oot!;)

Marco.

[smangus]

Certainly Marco , unfortunately all I have to show for it at the moment is this ! Lol :D

Dont worry once underway I'll stick some up.

Cheera Andy.

[STD305M]

Hi Andy,
Good on you mate !!!
Welcome to the world of DCB1 !!!!

Take your time and lots of pics....
I've got a spare fuse and holder pm me your address and I'll send you it.
The caps that come supplied are really quite good if you bought the kit??? and shouldn't need replacing !!
Remote or not ??? Well i guess it depends on what you want to spend Alps pot with remote and power board is well less than £100
Khozmo and remote £360 ish

I tried the relay input board - no comment. Save £45 to 50 quid by not buying and populating, and wire straight
to the Selector switch - one less piece of equipment in the chain!!!

A slightly bigger tx would be better if you go to 600mA but no need to go really expensive.
Will send you the link for the one i got, reasonably cheap and capable of going the whole hog if you so desire.
The dale resistors are better than you would think and already supplied if you bought the kit???
I would also recommend Aluminium rather than steel case if your gonna push to 600mA unless your going to fit large heatsinks

S.

[Bigman80]

Good on ya mate.

Most decent hookup wire is rated. I used some 700v rated stuff. Seemed absolutely fine!!

Better components usually lead to better results. What I would say is don't go bezerk, there's only fine margins after a point.

Steve and I are trying some Audio note resistors and he's already took his out [emoji23][emoji23]

Like I say, more money is not necessarily necessary.

[smangus]

cool thanks , have the dcb1 kit coming so will use that 1st . Steve a link to the traffo would be great thanks. CheersAndy

[smangus]

oh yes forgot rfi filter, best to fit one ?

[Bigman80]

oh yes forgot rfi filter, best to fit one ?I had one, never tried it without so can't say what effect it had.

[STD305M]

Hi Andy

Never had rfi filter in either of the dcb1

Both didnt suffer from rfi interference

S.

[Marco]

Certainly Marco , unfortunately all I have to show for it at the moment is this ! Lol :D

Dont worry once underway I'll stick some up.

Cheera Andy.

Lol - no worries... You get the idea though - pics on threads like this are vital!:)

Marco.

[STD305M]

Lol - no worries... You get the idea though - pics on threads like this are vital!:)

Marco.

Pics speak louder than words !! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[smangus]

Pics speak louder than words !! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

indeed!!

[Ali Tait]

Board for remote volume control-

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog/glasshouse-remote-control-motorised-alps-p-6344.html

[STD305M]

The full kit
Pot
Remote board+remote is £77 plus vat plus delivery

S.

[Firebottle]

Much cheaper ones available from China that will control an Alps pot, but...
I strongly recommend fitting a switched resistor attenuator, the Alps is a bottleneck.

Khozmo is the best, there are slightly less expensive alternatives.

Point 5. Use a 12V secondary transformer, there will be less power dissipation in the first two Fets.
Steve's link should be a 12V Tx.

[smangus]

thanks Alan yes Steves link is 12 v ill have think about the pot . which value should i look for in a stepped one?

[Firebottle]

I tend to chose 50K.

[Bigman80]

Yup, if funds are tight, go for a Valab Stepped Attenuator. He makes decent stuff for good pricing.

[smangus]

Yeah have bought some bits form him before always reliable and good prices.

[smangus]

Ok so attenuator madness :eek: , linear or logarithmic? What's the difference? I assume it's in how the siganl is attenuated in the rate it increases/decreases to the power amp. Does it really matter?

[smangus]

Oh forgot , also ladder or series? :scratch:

[Firebottle]

You want log, otherwise the usable rotation will be very cramped/small.

[smangus]

You want log, otherwise the usable rotation will be very cramped/small.

Thanks will do, cheers .

[STD305M]

Hi Andy

If your budget can stretch to a Khozmo get the 50k Series Alan recommended it to me, its quite superb mate !!!

S...

[smangus]

Hi Andy

If your budget can stretch to a Khozmo get the 50k Series Alan recommended it to me, its quite superb mate !!!

S...

"When I grow up I wanna be a Khozmo!" sez attenuator boy :D


If this all works out then I'll spend a bit more to upgrade etc, until then and with xmas coming up gonna go cheep!!

[smangus]

Well I dedcided that one of the ducks i have to shot is my soldering skills. So I ordered 50 cheap resisters of the bay for 2 whole pounds from t'bay and a dummy breadboard to solder them to. thought I'd better get some practicein! lol. especially asbthe parts have arrived. :lol:

[Bigman80]

Well I dedcided that one of the ducks i have to shot is my soldering skills. So I ordered 50 cheap resisters of the bay for 2 whole pounds from t'bay and a dummy breadboard to solder them to. thought I'd better get some practicein! lol. especially asbthe parts have arrived. [emoji38]That's a very wise move. Even the pros burn the board now and again.

Get the practice in on something that doesn't matter and then go for the big job.

[smangus]

Been doing some reading up on stuff, found a try out of different resistor types for a DCB1 here if anyone is interested. posters name is Scorpion and he try's out a number of different makes to evaluate the difference in sound. I thought his summaries were a good guide for those like me that won't have the time or energy to try different ones in a build. But his descriptions are well written up and they might be a good guide as a starting point if there is a type of sound you might like to capture.

The results start at about post 123. He has a good looking build too!:)


https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/252030-salas-hotrodded-dcb1-resistor-tryouts.html

[Bigman80]

Been doing some reading up on stuff, found a try out of different resistor types for a DCB1 here if anyone is interested. posters name is Scorpion and he try's out a number of different makes to evaluate the difference in sound. I thought his summaries were a good guide for those like me that won't have the time or energy to try different ones in a build. But his descriptions are well written up and they might be a good guide as a starting point if there is a type of sound you might like to capture.

The results start at about post 123. He has a good looking build too!:)


https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analog-line-level/252030-salas-hotrodded-dcb1-resistor-tryouts.htmlTo save me reading everything, which ones are the best in his opinion?

Good thread but damn, it's long [emoji23]

[smangus]

yeah basically audio note tants but older ones not the newer types .

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[Bigman80]

yeah basically audio note tants but older ones not the newer types .

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkWell that's a shit. I have the new ones [emoji38]

Are the old ones even available?

[smangus]

no idea!

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[smangus]

its an old thread though so the new ones weren't about i think

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[Bigman80]

its an old thread though so the new ones weren't about i think

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkAh, good point.

I have the AN Tantalum in my dcb1. I really like the although I know Steve didn't and replaced them quickly.

Eventually, I will be fitting Charcroft ZFoil to the critical areas, if I can get the values.

They are the best I've heard and the price suggests so. £9 per resistor.

[STD305M]

Ah, good point.

I have the AN Tantalum in my dcb1. I really like the although I know Steve didn't and replaced them quickly.

Eventually, I will be fitting Charcroft ZFoil to the critical areas, if I can get the values.

They are the best I've heard and the price suggests so. £9 per resistor.

Hi Oliver
You can get the charcroft resistors, £9.50 each for 220ohm £9.50 for 220k ohm but the 1m are £44. Each

S.

[Bigman80]

Hi Oliver
You can get the charcroft resistors, £9.50 each for 220ohm £9.50 for 220k ohm but the 1m are £44. Each

S.I know mate. It's ridiculous but eventually, I'll do it.

[smangus]

Not tempted by tha AN silvers at 35 a shot then ? [emoji12][emoji12]

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[smangus]

Well the parts have arrived , got 2 boards so I can build a pimped up version later if it all works out ok. Just got to sort out my order of battle :scratch: over xmas , learn to solder, stuff board, sort out case and transformer, switch on and burn down house etc:D.

[Bigman80]

[emoji38][emoji38]

[STD305M]

Well the parts have arrived , got 2 boards so I can build a pimped up version later if it all works out ok. Just got to sort out my order of battle :scratch: over xmas , learn to solder, stuff board, sort out case and transformer, switch on and burn down house etc:D.

Hi Andy
Glad your giving it a go !!!
Just take your time and enjoy the build mate.

Regards S...

[smangus]

Got my toroidy toroid through this morning , heavy little bugger. Now xmas is over I can start haveing a go at the board over the next few days. at last! [emoji12]

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[Bigman80]

Got my toroidy toroid through this morning , heavy little bugger. Now xmas is over I can start haveing a go at the board over the next few days. at last! [emoji12]

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkHa, cool. Good luck!!

[keith1962]

Mine was just delivered today. Will need advice on how to determine which two of the four leads are to be joined and which terminal the other two connect to.
KR
Keith.

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[smangus]

on the go !https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/16becf130c9141f46274a7e8172f38f2.jpg

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[smangus]

found another use for the transformer , makes a good counter weight [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/e14f1635c8cd2a9abe8d7a54896a973d.jpg

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[karma67]

Mine was just delivered today. Will need advice on how to determine which two of the four leads are to be joined and which terminal the other two connect to.
KR
Keith.

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im sure steve will be along soon to advise mate.

[Bigman80]

found another use for the transformer , makes a good counter weight [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/e14f1635c8cd2a9abe8d7a54896a973d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

Class.

Steve will advise mate. When I did mine I got it wrong and it got hot quickly [emoji23][emoji23]

[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Post a pic of your tx so the wires can be seen please

Steve

[smangus]

Hi Steve here you go. thanks https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/aa66968784fb353a5edb904e80e4ab2a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/2db1f75c9b10e16ce14f48a609ae5790.jpg

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[smangus]

odd resistor measurements [emoji3166] figured out where they go though so all cool https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/b85d7f7bd10a3d314281283da1f5f12a.jpg

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[STD305M]

The red and black closest together are to be joined and they go to the center of the connector on the dcb1
The spare red and black go either side
Will send pic when i get home.
Cant do it on my phone

Steve

[smangus]

thanks Steve no rush as I haven't got a case yet [emoji3] good for future reference though [emoji106]

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[STD305M]

Resistor values look wrong mate

[smangus]

mmm thought there would be a margin of error so 46.5 kohms would be the 47 kohm one. to large an error?

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[smangus]

they all came with the teabag kit


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[STD305M]

Hi Keith
Is your tx the same as Andy ???

[STD305M]

mmm thought there would be a margin of error so 46.5 kohms would be the 47 kohm one. to large an error?

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Mine measured a little closer
Wasn't happy so i replaced them with exact values.

All the other resistors are 1% or 0.05%

5% seems a lot to me.


Shouldn't really matter

[smangus]

Mine measured a little closer
Wasn't happy so i replaced them with exact values.

All the other resistors are 1% or 0.05%

5% seems a lot to me.


Shouldn't really matterok thanks I'll put them im for now and chage later if need be.

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[smangus]

Most resistors in so time for a beer!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181227/632e900ba83da7d1b546b77fca1ed50e.jpg

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[STD305M]

Well done mate
Next
Jumpers
Matched quad
And other jfets then leds

Check closely when fitting fets and leds

Enjoy your beer.......

Steve

[keith1962]

Hi Keith
Is your tx the same as Andy ???Sorry just got home from work and opened it. Yes, exactly same tx. Red and black close together joined, does it matter which side of the connector block the other red and other black go to?
On the primary there are two blues. Either one to the live and the other to neutral?
KR
Keith.

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[STD305M]

Hi Keith
You can put red and black either side on the dcb1 board.

Steve...

[Puffin]

Isn't it AC?

[STD305M]

Isn't it AC?

Yes

[keith1962]

Hi Keith
You can put red and black either side on the dcb1 board.
It's dc not Ac so won't matter

Steve...So the red goes to one side on the connector block and the black to the other and it doesn't matter which.
Similarly, it doesn't matter which blue goes to the live at the iec socket and the other blue goes to neutral.
KR
Keith.

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[Firebottle]

Steve it's AC that comes from the transformer.....

[smangus]

ok probable 1st boo boo [emoji38]just used my matched k170 jfets in my power supply by mistake and then spotted the other bag marked "power supply " with 6 others in lol. I guess this is fairly important from what I've read so need to swap over yes? Advice anyone ? Cheers

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[smangus]

anyway gratuitous shot of caps and possibly offending jfets [emoji23][emoji23]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181228/44cd9870f74f4b54513ca06e19e47e60.jpg

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[smangus]

Next ElectroNumpty question is this the rigjt orientattion fpr the Wima caps? or doesn't it matter? thanks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181228/13ba7236583b626a410a97b49e4dd8b8.jpg

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[STD305M]

Thats the right way round

[STD305M]

Steve it's AC that comes from the transformer.....

Cheers Alan
Really should sleep at night :doh:
Slept all afternoon

[Wakefield Turntables]

You can always google the polarity of the WIMA's!

[smangus]

Thats the right way roundthanks !

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[STD305M]

Next ElectroNumpty question is this the rigjt orientattion fpr the Wima caps? or doesn't it matter? thanks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181228/13ba7236583b626a410a97b49e4dd8b8.jpg

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Hi Andy
You need to check the jfets you've fitted
You got one the wrong way round mate
The one in the pic on the right!!!!
Steve..
The one on the right in the picture under the leds

[smangus]

You can always google the polarity of the WIMA's!tried , but the Negronis are statting to get to me LOL [emoji2957][emoji2957]

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[smangus]

Hi Andy
You need to check the jfets you've fitted
You got one the wrong way round mate
The one in the pic on the right!!!!
Steve..thanks seen it now

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[STD305M]

anyway gratuitous shot of caps and possibly offending jfets [emoji23][emoji23]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181228/44cd9870f74f4b54513ca06e19e47e60.jpg

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Hi Andy,
I see you have J2 jumper fitted, The recent DCB1 boards do not need any jumpers there. In previous single sided boards they did.
They were just not removed when moving to double sided boards.
Not Needed!!!

Steve...

[smangus]

Just to say , had a chat with Steve this morning and he was very helpful with lots of tips etc which helped clear up some things in my mind and offers of help. Thanks for takingvthe time mate . Cheers Andy

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[STD305M]

No problem Andy anytime.
Enjoy your evening!!!!

Steve

[Bigman80]

Just to say , had a chat with Steve this morning and he was very helpful with lots of tips etc which helped clear up some things in my mind and offers of help. Thanks for takingvthe time mate . Cheers Andy

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkHe's a good egg.

[smangus]

Just recovering from my LOTRs all nighter which I can highly recommend [emoji3] and considering taking advatage of hifi collectives sale . Need a source selector switch, has to be break before make, is it 2 pole 6 way for example? thanks

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[STD305M]

Hi Andy

Elma 2 pole 6 way from hifi collective is perfect,
The part number is 04-1264
Both oliver and myself use them.

Steve...

[walpurgis]

Hi Andy

Elma 2 pole 6 way from hifi collective is perfect,
The part number is 04-1264
Both oliver and myself use them.

Steve...

Just had a look at some prices on three way examples. Dearer than I expected. Still, you pay for quality I guess.

[STD305M]

Hi Geoff

I've not come across a 6 way switch that betters the
Elma at a similar price

I guess you pay for quality..

[smangus]

Great , I was looking at the Elma but not sure which one to go for.

[Bigman80]

Seiden make exceptional switches too but you'll pay more.

[smangus]

just ordered one of these to get me up and running :)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323615071657

[Bigman80]

just ordered one of these to get me up and running :)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323615071657Won't be a lot wrong with that. I like Valab.

[smangus]

Won't be a lot wrong with that. I like Valab.

Me too , bought a few bits from them before , always decent quality at a very fair price. Happy New year!!

[Bigman80]

Me too , bought a few bits from them before , always decent quality at a very fair price. Happy New year!!Happy new year to you too!!!!

Yes, Kevin is a nice guy who makes good parts for a good price. Can't fault him or his service.

He has some cable I am hoping to try in the near future.

[smangus]

Well I've been looking at cases and stuff for the DCB1, quite a lot of choice out their however think I might have to get this just for the sheer cheek of it and lols :rfl::rfl::rfl:

yes I know it's steel but that can be overcome!:D:D

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tube-preamplifier-Chassis-for-M7-Preamp-case-steel-box-410x100x300mm/272883543976?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

[Bigman80]

Well I've been looking at cases and stuff for the DCB1, quite a lot of choice out their however think I might have to get this just for the sheer cheek of it and lols :rfl::rfl::rfl:

yes I know it's steel but that can be overcome!:D:D

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tube-preamplifier-Chassis-for-M7-Preamp-case-steel-box-410x100x300mm/272883543976?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649Yes, I like that a lot. Retro beauty.

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[smangus]

yes I like it too , should get a plaque made up saying "DCB1-better than a" and place it in a strategic place!

[Bigman80]

yes I like it too , should get a plaque made up saying "DCB1-better than a" and place it in a strategic place![emoji38] yes, cheeky. I love it.

[keith1962]

Only one problem, looks nothing like any M7 I've seen.

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[smangus]

Only one problem, looks nothing like any M7 I've seen.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalkthat's ok , as a) I like the style generally and b) I won't ever be passing it off as such. just need to worknout some internal layout dims as ideally I'd like some thing a bit smaller.

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[keith1962]

that's ok , as a) I like the style generally and b) I won't ever be passing it off as such. just need to worknout some internal layout dims as ideally I'd like some thing a bit smaller.

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkYes, I know you are not passing it off as such but for the cheeky joke to work I would have thought it would at least need to look like one, especially as the eBay seller has badged it as m7, not that he is doing so as a joke.
Anyhoo, how is your build going? I have fitted my transformer and the temp. of the Fets and the rectifier has reduced a fair bit. It is now running at a slightly reduced current of around 850ma but still sounding very good. Will probably stick at that and get the front and lid back on with the knobs relocated after the change to the internal layout. Also have a bit more heat sinking arriving just to be sure on temp.
KR
Keith.

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[smangus]

Yes, I know you are not passing it off as such but for the cheeky joke to work I would have thought it would at least need to look like one, especially as the eBay seller has badged it as m7, not that he is doing so as a joke.
Anyhoo, how is your build going? I have fitted my transformer and the temp. of the Fets and the rectifier has reduced a fair bit. It is now running at a slightly reduced current of around 850ma but still sounding very good. Will probably stick at that and get the front and lid back on with the knobs relocated after the change to the internal layout. Also have a bit more heat sinking arriving just to be sure on temp.
KR
Keith.

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Well the board is basically stuffed so I have ordered hook up wire and switches so am waiting for them before doing anything else. I just have to decide on a case for my needs :scratch::scratch: , which led me to the above but I'm hoping to get something slightly smaller as my shelf space has shrunk!! if not thenI might just go for the Kondo looky likey:D However in the meantime I have a bedroom to decorate so will be busy until all the bits arrive. Some are coming from Taiwan so may take a couple of weeks to get here, all in a bit of limbo for a bit really .



Cheers Andy

[smangus]

hi any tips on desolderinv as this is proving ti be a difficult bugger to turn around ! thanks ! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190105/24fc5e13c3ae81a37d428b9b9265f4a1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190105/b845d4f469116fa96983c775c3195ade.jpg

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[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Do you have a solder sucker
If not it's going to be difficult.
Steve

[smangus]

Hi Steve

yeah tried it several times but cant get tge last bits out. lol

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[struth]

sometimes resoldering and desoldering it again will clear it.

[smangus]

ok thanks will try that , have to be tomorrow now lol going to the rugby now.

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[Firebottle]

Try to apply the iron tip to all 3 legs and pull it out quickly to avoid cooking.
Put a large blob of solder across 2 legs to start with if your tip isn't that big.

[smangus]

Try to apply the iron tip to all 3 legs and pull it out quickly to avoid cooking.
Put a large blob of solder across 2 legs to start with if your tip isn't that big.

Ah good tip ill give that a go. Thanks Alan

[karma67]

hi any tips on desolderinv as this is proving ti be a difficult bugger to turn around ! thanks ! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190105/24fc5e13c3ae81a37d428b9b9265f4a1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190105/b845d4f469116fa96983c775c3195ade.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

if you have enough length in the legs why not just cut them to remove?

[smangus]

well i was hoping to reuse the component. Not sure there would be enough leg left to resolder if i did that.

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[Bigman80]

well i was hoping to reuse the component. Not sure there would be enough leg left to resolder if i did that.

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkPersonally, I'd cut it off. I have a few spare bits, so I'll check the stock and if I have some I'll send you some down mate.

The amount of heat you've put through the FET trying to remove it may kill it too. Then you may have to remove it again!

They aren't expensive either to be fair. We've all done that though, wrong part or wrong way round. Learn from it and slow down a little. The excitement to get it done takes over sometime [emoji6]

[karma67]

well i was hoping to reuse the component. Not sure there would be enough leg left to resolder if i did that.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

it looks like there is in the photo.

[smangus]

Yeah i have a spare but will try Alans way 1st as it would be good practice for me to try. If I get frustrated I can always go the more " surgical" route [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Yeah i have a spare but will try Alans way 1st as it would be good practice for me to try. If I get frustrated I can always go the more " surgical" route [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkJust be patient. Make sure there is some solder in your iron and if all else fails, cut it out and replace with a new part.

[STD305M]

Hi Andy

Watch you dont put too much heat in to the copper track on the board you can damage that too...

Steve..

[smangus]

Yep will do have ordered a case from Aliexpress in the meantime Black Alu:)

[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Aluminium is best suited for what your doing.
Aliexpress were pretty quick at delivering my cases.
Hope it's the same for you.
Steve...

[smangus]

ok component removed and swapped, thanks for all the advice [emoji16] Just waiting for the case from china and wire switch from Taiwan before more bodgery [emoji38][emoji38]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190109/2a4dee9436f8a786734134f50d4be840.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190109/1880b2355913445148bd6721c9d6d26b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190109/b553037bca31a955447247bea33fbfcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

ok component removed and swapped, thanks for all the advice [emoji16] Just waiting for the case from china and wire switch from Taiwan before more bodgery [emoji38][emoji38]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190109/2a4dee9436f8a786734134f50d4be840.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190109/1880b2355913445148bd6721c9d6d26b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190109/b553037bca31a955447247bea33fbfcf.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Well done Andy. Looks good from here!

[smangus]

thanks feeling smug/relieved !

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[STD305M]

Hi Andy
I see you have fitted 1.8 ohm 2% resistors in the vital spot.
Should give you around 750 Ma.
Board looks good mate.

If your gonna have an led on your power switch you'll need to remove the single led and use that to power the front case light.

Steve...

[smangus]

Hi Andy
I see you have fitted 1.8 ohm 2% resistors in the vital spot.
Should give you around 750 Ma.
Board looks good mate.

If your gonna have an led on your power switch you'll need to remove the single led and use that to power the front case light.

Steve...Thanks Steve yeah I had fitted the led before you told ma about that but should be a straightforward change.

Cheers Andy

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[keith1962]

Just about finished my project with the addition of some 2mm aluminium angle under the Fets and across the 4 rectifier. Bought some 30mmx30mmx12mm heat sinks that are self adhesive and stuck to the aluminium angle. Fets and rectifiers are hot still but no problem pressing fingers onto them hard and leaving them there. Might get a couple more and stick them to the other side of the vertical ones on the rectifiers just to make sure.
I have 1.2R resistors and get about 852mA output from one side and 882mA from the other. Is it worth the effort to match them?
KR
Keith.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/caab1ee5e41be76bc35c090721af0753.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/0a7d9060537bab9c1e5a1395bc165f51.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/d4c00cb563009df09a172b9ead082896.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/4655a5794821e612bf2030d2093422be.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Just about finished my project with the addition of some 2mm aluminium angle under the Fets and across the 4 rectifier. Bought some 30mmx30mmx12mm heat sinks that are self adhesive and stuck to the aluminium angle. Fets and rectifiers are hot still but no problem pressing fingers onto them hard and leaving them there. Might get a couple more and stick them to the other side of the vertical ones on the rectifiers just to make sure.
I have 1.2R resistors and get about 852mA output from one side and 882mA from the other. Is it worth the effort to match them?
KR
Keith.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/caab1ee5e41be76bc35c090721af0753.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/0a7d9060537bab9c1e5a1395bc165f51.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/d4c00cb563009df09a172b9ead082896.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190112/4655a5794821e612bf2030d2093422be.jpg

Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkWell done! Looks good.

I wouldn't bother, it's very difficult to get them exact.

Just enjoy the fruits of your labour!

[smangus]

Cool looks good. nice one. What are the brown caps in the middle ?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[keith1962]

Cool looks good. nice one. What are the brown caps in the middle ?

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkThey are Jupiter Cu foil in paper and wax. The unit came with Mundorf Mcap Evos in place of the normal Wimas. I checked with Salas through DIYAudio and he confirmed the places for foo if you are that way inclined are these 2 caps and the 8 resistors near the output from the board (220R, 220K and 1M I think the values are?). Mine came with Shinkoh for 220R and Rikens for the other 4 so didn't bother changing them.
The main purpose of the project was to turn the pcb through 90 degrees and put the selector and volume either side. When I got it the board ran lengthways in the case and the volume and selector were one above the other where the selector switch is still. I didn't like that arrangement especially on the front which didn't look right. Bought some 10mm aluminium plate from Metal Supermarket and made a new front panel and repositioned the knobs. I think it looks much better now.
Will try and upload some pics of how it was originally.
KR
Keith.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Firebottle]

Looking good there Keith, I see you have gone for the Audio Dimension attenuator :thumbsup:

If you can keep your finger on all the heatsinks then no more cooling required.

[smangus]

They are Jupiter Cu foil in paper and wax. The unit came with Mundorf Mcap Evos in place of the normal Wimas. I checked with Salas through DIYAudio and he confirmed the places for foo if you are that way inclined are these 2 caps and the 8 resistors near the output from the board (220R, 220K and 1M I think the values are?). Mine came with Shinkoh for 220R and Rikens for the other 4 so didn't bother changing them.
The main purpose of the project was to turn the pcb through 90 degrees and put the selector and volume either side. When I got it the board ran lengthways in the case and the volume and selector were one above the other where the selector switch is still. I didn't like that arrangement especially on the front which didn't look right. Bought some 10mm aluminium plate from Metal Supermarket and made a new front panel and repositioned the knobs. I think it looks much better now.
Will try and upload some pics of how it was originally.
KR
Keith.

Sent from my SM-G935F using TapatalkThats interesting , thanks

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[STD305M]

Hi Keith
Nice build mate.
I notice you've not fitted the 10 bias led, any particular reason ??

Steve..

[keith1962]

Steve,
Whoever did the original build put most of the leds underneath the board for some reason, I just haven't bothered to move them. Similarly with the Riken and Shinkoh resistors which are not very tidy but never got round to sorting them out and you can't see them with the lid on anyway:).
KR
Keith.

[STD305M]

Hi Keith
Thanks for the explanation.
Looks don't reallt matter, you'll have the lid on anyway.
As long as it sounds good :)

[smangus]

Ok here's a question to ponder while the case wends it's way to me from the PRC. I listen to my headphones through my NJC headphone amp a lot , how do I add another pair of output sockets to the pre to plug that into separately? Is it as simple as running an extra lead from the out of the board to another set of RCAs? Can't believe it will be that easy but I live in hope:D

[Bigman80]

Ok here's a question to ponder while the case wends it's way to me from the PRC. I listen to my headphones through my NJC headphone amp a lot , how do I add another pair of output sockets to the pre to plug that into separately? Is it as simple as running an extra lead from the out of the board to another set of RCAs? Can't believe it will be that easy but I live in hope:DJust wire another set of RCA sockets from the RCA outputs. Directly. Simple.

[smangus]

Just wire another set of RCA sockets from the RCA outputs. Directly. Simple.Thanks wow didn't think it would he that easy somehow. [emoji3]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Thanks wow didn't think it would he that easy somehow. [emoji3]

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkYup, just daisy chain it.

[smangus]

thats great, all i will need to do is drill 2 extra holes. I use head phone quite a lot late at night so will get the benefit of the pre through the cans.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

case arrived today with free Chinese chip paper https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190118/5375730823a39fcbba01c5c6ade5574d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190118/107166904acf984b82a0379430234991.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Nice looking.

[Macca]

Looks pretty swanky.

[smangus]

thanks Oliver, waiting for the cable now . need to drill some holes etc. very pleased with the case though. [emoji3] how are you doing ?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190118/8339e2f4eaf535822b09a42545883da2.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

In and out of sleep mate. Very sore.

[walpurgis]

In and out of sleep mate. Very sore.

Yup, it's from the second day after an injury that the soreness really sets in. Been there a good few times. Bet the collarbone is aggravating you most. It'll start easing after a few more days hopefully mate.

[Bigman80]

Yup, it's from the second day after an injury that the soreness really sets in. Been there a good few times. Bet the collarbone is aggravating you most. It'll start easing after a few more days hopefully mate.They haven't done anything with the collarbone yet, waiting to see what it looks like when the swelling reduces.

It's a bloody nightmare

[smangus]

Sleeping is the best thing so the body can recover. Years ago I had an operation to pin a constantly dislocating shoulder. The hardest rhing for me was getting to sleep as i hate sleeping on my back. If you're feeling tired don't fight it just go with it. hope you start feelng better soon.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Sleeping is the best thing so the body can recover. Years ago I had an operation to pin a constantly dislocating shoulder. The hardest rhing for me was getting to sleep as i hate sleeping on my back. If you're feeling tired don't fight it just go with it. hope you start feelng better soon.

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkCheers Andy,..

[smangus]

still waiting for hook up wire and attenuater to arrive , drums fingers...... , prospective layout , similar to Steve's by the look of it. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/0dc4a72d2380785efe134a781bebf7c8.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

Back view , going to drill some more holes for an extra pair of outputs for a headphone amp. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/0be7db264320571e858c2267657cf41c.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Back view , going to drill some more holes for an extra pair of outputs for a headphone amp. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/0be7db264320571e858c2267657cf41c.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkWell done mate. Looks excellent

[smangus]

Thanks Oliver , managed to drill the holes ok, slightly off centre but i recken thats part of the charm [emoji6] Thinking about where to put the plaques but will need to spray laquer them 1st so they stay shiney lol https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/de5be852a6ffccf4298fa45884982640.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/83e8302e996210246eb33a08f80a9bdf.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Thanks Oliver , managed to drill the holes ok, slightly off centre but i recken thats part of the charm [emoji6] Thinking about where to put the plaques but will need to spray laquer them 1st so they stay shiney lol https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/de5be852a6ffccf4298fa45884982640.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190121/83e8302e996210246eb33a08f80a9bdf.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkWon't matter mate, you can't see them lol

Love the badges

[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Glad to see you have the elma switch and not using the relay board.
Nice build so far mate
Top Notch badge ha ha

Steve

[smangus]

Cheers Steve decided on the switch as its less complicated. Cant do much until the hook up wire gets here now

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

If any one is interested I used these for the badges , you can choose different fonts, sizes etc so are quite flexible and you can order single badges so no minimum order which is nice.


https://www.signomatic.co.uk/signomatic/label-and-plate

[smangus]

Cable and attenuater arrived at last, time for some more dumb ass questions before getting the soldering iron out [emoji16][emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190125/8acadda09bf8da552a3b2a202ace4e3d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

Thinking of layouts, the preferred one so far, as per previous builds [emoji3] the alu plate will act as a spacer under the extenders as they are not quir tall enough. I'll cut a couple of pieces off to go under them. Might use a bit for a heat sink on the MURs also if needed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190125/88f2a60d5fce3585675da85ba389de81.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Thinking of layouts, the preferred one so far, as per previous builds [emoji3] the alu plate will act as a spacer under the extenders as they are not quir tall enough. I'll cut a couple of pieces off to go under them. Might use a bit for a heat sink on the MURs also if needed. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190125/88f2a60d5fce3585675da85ba389de81.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkI'd get the PCB closer to the back so you have room to add some heatsink to the MURs if necessary.

[smangus]

Thanks Oliver will do , now measuring holes for the feet. Solid alu with sorbothane pad and o ring . https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190125/5b0f468fcfb9689e9d1c6bd6f78758f4.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[keith1962]

Would it not be better to have the attenuator and the selector swapped over? Selector next to the inputs and volume next to the outputs?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

Yes ideally but the holes are marked vol and select so id like it to match. Won't matter too much once the lid is on.

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

before drilling holes in anything decided to take advantage of my new virtual reality software (pencil) [emoji23] to test the placement of components so none obstruct the other. Good job too , some advantages to decorating a bedroom and having left over lining paper ! [emoji41] https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190125/df634a8935b07f3b0d90262a7a5835fc.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[keith1962]

Yes ideally but the holes are marked vol and select so id like it to match. Won't matter too much once the lid is on.

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkAh, no worries, and I agree, I would have the front panel correct like you are doing.

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[keith1962]

What is the hook up wire btw?

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[Firebottle]

The 6 P's

Proper planning prevents piss poor performance :thumbsup:

Good job.

[smangus]

Thanks Alan [emoji3]

Feet placed, just need to cut the bolts shorter now and drill holes for the other bits Going the prep the Haggis now though [emoji41]so more tomorrow hopefully. Keith the wire is from Valab pcocc copper , ill post a link later . https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190125/a7b5b4326bbc1a2e0f38924434faff52.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190125/e83a26fdcd16de5a80b7cdd0ca5405c2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190125/d5842de62f6726976edf48bb128055a6.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

Valab wire link

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223307749981?ViewItem=&item=223307749981

[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Nice case mate.

Love the super long screws :lol:

[smangus]

Cheers Steve

Don't want the feet falling off now do I ! :D

How does your dual mono DCB1 sound? Much difference to a single board one?

[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Will let you know when I get the phono stage finished, would normally have it done by now but lots of other issues, car problems, health and on and on....

Steve...

[smangus]

Sorry to hear that, hope things get better for you soon.

cheers

Andy

[Gregje]

Very nice case! It is not ready made,is it? Have you designed it yourself, sent the files and the manufacturer made it for you?

[Bigman80]

Very nice case! It is not ready made,is it? Have you designed it yourself, sent the files and the manufacturer made it for you?DCB1 boards are sold by Tea-Bag on DIYaudio. They are very good.

[smangus]

Very nice case! It is not ready made,is it? Have you designed it yourself, sent the files and the manufacturer made it for you?

Hi no I'm not that good

it's ready made, if you Google aluminium case wa19 it will come up. it comes without feet though so I got those from these guys

http://www.kmsounds.co.uk/

Aluminium 5cm diameter and 2.5 cm thick with a sorbothane layer for not too much money .:) I think they match the case well but you can get black anodised ones too. they make all sorts of isolation bits.

[smangus]

ok so dumb assed question 1 coming up :scratch:

looking at stuff the signal should be wired as follows I think

RCA in > input selector > Volume control input > Board input > Board output > RCA out -- Power amps



Is that the right order? Thought I'd better check lol :D

Thanks

Ground/earth dumb assed Q2 coming up....:stalks:

[smangus]

Dumb assed question 2 coming up :)

Mains and chassis earth -

As far as I understand I need to run a separate earth wire to be connected to the chassis from the mains earth point, connected with a bolt and ring washer.


The transformer earth needs to be connected top the mains earth connection also. Is this correct ? Any other mains earthing (not signal grounding) that I need to consider at all?

The chassis is anodised Aluminium , do I need to remove some of this with emery paper around the chassis earth bolt for a good connection or will it be ok for conductivity anyway?


Thanks :)

[smangus]

Dumb assed question the third....

Signal grounding , a bit confused by this :scratch::scratch::scratch:lol

Inputs

The ground from each in out RCA socket can be commoned to a single piece of wire (bus) which can then be connected as follows (as far as I can tell)


Input RCA ground bus > Volume ground > Board input ground> Board output ground > output RCA ground (bus)

Is this right ? Anything else I need to consider/add? All comments and advice welcomed.

Thanks

Andyelectronumpty :D

[Firebottle]

Number 1 you missed Volume control out>board input, otherwise yes.

Number 2 yes emery paper for good connection, or use star washer and do up tight.

Number 3 yes.

Not so electronumpty :D

[STD305M]

Hi Andy

You are correct regarding earthing, just make sure you make a good contact with the case, use a little emery cloth to make bare your contact point.
will send you a pic for RCA grounding

steve

[smangus]

Thanks Alan/Steve , thought id better confirm my understanding before connevting. Cheers [emoji41]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Gregje]

Hi no I'm not that good

it's ready made, if you Google aluminium case wa19 it will come up. it comes without feet though so I got those from these guys

http://www.kmsounds.co.uk/

Aluminium 5cm diameter and 2.5 cm thick with a sorbothane layer for not too much money .:) I think they match the case well but you can get black anodised ones too. they make all sorts of isolation bits.

Thanks. I will check them out! Especially the case. I still have a good stock of feet (not as nice as you're though)

[STD305M]

Thanks. I will check them out! Especially the case. I still have a good stock of feet (not as nice as you're though)

You could also try these

https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/tailstocks-and-feet-c-403.html

Steve

[smangus]

A Pottering metal work day today , spacers cut for extention brackets. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/75c0ea35b1211027a88f2a187c9ec7e4.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[STD305M]

Hi Andy
What is the height if your case??
Curious as to why you need mountilg brackets to raise the height.

My case is 90mm high and they're not required

Steve...

[smangus]

hi Steve holes slightly too high. only by 1-2 mill but means the extention bars don't seat quite right . Enough to make turning them jerky and not smooth. Could do without but would be annoying [emoji41]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/299a8f82fcda7f54378e3d97d4436fff.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

Found another use for jam jar labels, marking out holes for drilling [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/d5b7b6712a19bd211af332a8750b16b9.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Found another use for jam jar labels, marking out holes for drilling [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/d5b7b6712a19bd211af332a8750b16b9.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk[emoji1787] class

[smangus]

Voila!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/f56a0c53df91d885f1b0b11400c945d4.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Beautiful!!

[smangus]

So agood days work done [emoji16] feeling very pleased as it looks loke its coming together. just the wiring to get to grips with now. Aholes in the right place thanks to the jam label technique[emoji1787][emoji1787] One good side effect of that is that when setting the start point for the drill with a punch it doesn't move as it bits into the paper, allowing a really accurate start point. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/58b2e403f4625fee506babd721caa012.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/047b84a4e9a4b3534130abd38182d888.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/531d61e67fc2dab6750fb2532c0a456a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[STD305M]

Hi Andy

Very well done mate, build looking great!!!

Steve..

[STD305M]

Hi Andy

Very well done mate, build looking great!!!
If you haven't already drilled your holes might i suggest you give yourself a little more room for a heatsink on the rectifiers....

Steve..

[smangus]

too late I'll work something out though[emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Gregje]

Looks cool!

[smangus]

Thanks and special thanks to those that have given me help and advice so far. Cheers Andy

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

So agood days work done [emoji16] feeling very pleased as it looks loke its coming together. just the wiring to get to grips with now. Aholes in the right place thanks to the jam label technique[emoji1787][emoji1787] One good side effect of that is that when setting the start point for the drill with a punch it doesn't move as it bits into the paper, allowing a really accurate start point. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/58b2e403f4625fee506babd721caa012.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/047b84a4e9a4b3534130abd38182d888.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190127/531d61e67fc2dab6750fb2532c0a456a.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkI use these:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F 161778689714

Just helps with the alignment for the extender rods. Less critical to gave it absolutely perfect.

[smangus]

Doing me bus, slightly messily [emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190128/a8747c43bac06fb3600c2a9c21ca298d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[Bigman80]

Doing me bus, slightly messily [emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190128/a8747c43bac06fb3600c2a9c21ca298d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkThey have to be connected to each other too. I presume you know this though and I'm being obvious!

[smangus]

Yeah dont worry, got it covered[emoji6]

(in solder! lol) [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190128/e0c3d524a0ff6c6522f2a7ae4c64532c.jpg

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[Bigman80]

Yeah dont worry, got it covered[emoji6]

(in solder! lol) [emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190128/e0c3d524a0ff6c6522f2a7ae4c64532c.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk[emoji23][emoji23] classic.

[smangus]

back in https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190128/0cdc2b46e27efcbdba0c198145f85ac4.jpg

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[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Check your WhatsApp !!!

Re check your wire position !!!!!!!!

Looks like your common on all the rca is going to the switch, incorrect.
Input from all rca common goes to the in on the dcb1 board

[smangus]

Hi Steve

no worries its not connected although it looks like it from the photo angle , I need to trim that wire. :) will wire up with hook up.

Cheers Andy

[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Thank goodness

Steve

[smangus]

:exactly:

[smangus]

So ground question for the vol ,


The 2 ground connections here, is this a straight forward continuous through connection (I am assuming) between the 2 points or does it matter which goes to the board input ?

Thanks Andy

[smangus]

Found a wierd looking spider in the bath....

[emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190131/84a732dfbb17ddc16c948ad1732f5a54.jpg

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[Bigman80]

Found a wierd looking spider in the bath....

[emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190131/84a732dfbb17ddc16c948ad1732f5a54.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkLol.

[smangus]

crazy spider wiring lolhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190131/9643abff31f16ae611259034330dbe50.jpg

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[Bigman80]

crazy spider wiring lolhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190131/9643abff31f16ae611259034330dbe50.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkLooks fine!

[smangus]

Looks fine!Thanks wired a couple up and realised i had forgotton the wire was directional , ha dto redo lol [emoji1787]

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[Bigman80]

Thanks wired a couple up and realised i had forgotton the wire was directional , ha dto redo lol [emoji1787]

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkI did think about that but assumed you'd thought of it [emoji23][emoji23]

[smangus]

Yeah, I did know but forgot about it. I was soldering them and then thought , "Oh yeah those little arrows on the wire..bollocks!" haha!

[Bigman80]

Yeah, I did know but forgot about it. I was soldering them and then thought , "Oh yeah those little arrows on the wire..bollocks!" haha!Lol, happens to all of us

[smangus]

starting to play with electrickery.....[emoji2957]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190204/8032982486b052e4df798e7df774c25a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190204/c11f862e70c1199cdacdeaa4f161dc0e.jpg

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[Bigman80]

Take your time mate

[smangus]

Sure will :eek:

[STD305M]

Hi Andy.

With electrickery always check check and double check, its easy to think we got it right not check
and find we have a pile of bits smoking.
Build looking good just take your time and double check everything...

Steve...

[smangus]

Cheers Steve, just playing around finding the right layout atm to get the wires the right length etc.

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[smangus]

Think I have almoet sorted the signal wires , all looks a bit compressed but hey ho [emoji3] Had fun thinking abiut the ground bus but think I have found a solution the orange thingy. lol https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190210/50675c7743020519738f447fba004340.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190210/06599cec07841a11fdec0970f8c9ef0b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190210/7407d49adb839893dff1f6b92255846e.jpg

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[smangus]

some more [emoji3]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190210/a4c118a5df75902b3d8e831a7383a412.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190210/9dad1acd51a4eb65809a0caf99f97063.jpg

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[Bigman80]

some more [emoji3]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190210/a4c118a5df75902b3d8e831a7383a412.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190210/9dad1acd51a4eb65809a0caf99f97063.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Looks ok mate. Just needs powering up!

[smangus]

Thanks just need the more flexible hook up wire for the jumper fet leads and then i can connect . just need to sort the power cables out now.

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[Bigman80]

Thanks just need the more flexible hook up wire for the jumper fet leads and then i can connect . just need to sort the power cables out now.

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkKeep working on it mate, nearly there

[smangus]

Might hve finished it this weekend but the rugby got in tbe way [emoji6]

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[Bigman80]

Might hve finished it this weekend but the rugby got in tbe way [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G950F using TapatalkPriorities mate!

[smangus]

Well the finer hook up wire has arrived and there is no rugby on this weekend. Fingers crossed I should be able to finish it with a bit of luck ! [emoji41]

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[STD305M]

Go for it mate:cool:

[smangus]

no excuses this week lol

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[smangus]

Electrickery city!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190217/926af44ce54d39b356cb0709c2192e5e.jpg

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[struth]

looks very neat

[Bigman80]

Good stuff.

[smangus]

One fet down 3 to go ! Pausing for roast spud and chicken duties [emoji16]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190217/c72d1ece4a6f2d21b58da63445761ffa.jpg

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[smangus]

1 more pichttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190217/0d021010aded087c9a099e84c6329677.jpg

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[Bigman80]

Looking good mate, food stop, then continue!!!

[smangus]

Depends on the wine ratio [emoji16][emoji16]

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[smangus]

After dinner results are in -

Wine 1 Soldering 0

:ner:

[Bigman80]

[emoji23][emoji23]

[smangus]

Almost there!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/05dc5fc7710e6cd1e0692d4a4d744b38.jpg

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[Bigman80]

Finish it!!!!!!

[smangus]

Finish it!!!!!!mm might have to have a glass of wine 1st
.....[emoji6]

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[smangus]

done just need to test https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/c94d9e1966b96288932bdd1755b04a77.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/35b9dd4279ae778e6da17cee99b33ec3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/e3d4d8428adee7dcfbbcde3c2027bd8d.jpg

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[karma67]

slightly off topic but when my stepped attenuator arrives i may have to lengthen the wires going to it,bearing in mind its not passive what rating solid core wire should i use do you reckon?

[Bigman80]

slightly off topic but when my stepped attenuator arrives i may have to lengthen the wires going to it,bearing in mind its not passive what rating solid core wire should i use do you reckon?Well being a valve amp, I'd go for 600v.

[smangus]

Couldn't say mines 17 awg though.



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[smangus]

Electronumty question what rating fuse? Should it be slow blow?

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[Bigman80]

Electronumty question what rating fuse? Should it be slow blow?

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk5A fuse. Just a standard one.

If it pops. 13A.

STANDARD FUSE

Keep it legal.

[smangus]

cool need a smaller sized one for the iec socket.

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[karma67]

Well being a valve amp, I'd go for 600v.

cheers oli.

[STD305M]

Electronumty question what rating fuse? Should it be slow blow?

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fuse for the wall plug or fuse in the preamp ??


Please tell me you haven't finished wiring the board?????? From the last picture its not fully wired!!!


Steve

[smangus]

fuse for the wall plug or fuse in the preamp ??


Please tell me you haven't finished wiring the board?????? From the last picture its not fully wired!!!


StevePreamp fuse , this might be better [emoji3]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/50dd3162025668fe3ba2fb81e15db222.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

[smangus]

with flashhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190220/41217294f99446a4b47152c7115ce0f5.jpg

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[STD305M]

Hi Andy
Looks great, your pics where in the wrong order, looked like you had not wired from switch to IN on the board
Soldering looks much better too :)
You have and it looks great mate, well done :cool:

Just need the power led doing....

Steve..

[smangus]

Thanks Steve , just need a fuse and i can do a grand switch on ! [emoji41]

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[STD305M]

Which fuse ???